F1 Supercar Tire Repair Frustration (long)
11-20-2009, 04:13 PM
#1
Pro
Thread Starter
F1 Supercar Tire Repair Frustration (long)
Here is a story about my attempts to get my Goodyear Eagle F1 Supercar tire repaired. I worked hard at it, suffered a mountain of misinformation, and I hope passing the story on here helps someone.
I've got about 16,000 miles on my '06 Coupe. About a month ago (took me a while to get to writing this) I heard a "pop" while driving to a golf course. I thought nothing of it. Played golf, drove home, no issues. The next morning when I started my car in the garage the dash informed me that the left rear tire was flat. I looked, and found a piece of metal embedded in the center of the tread, like a spike or something. I know I am only supposed to drive on it for 50 miles in that condition, so I wanted to do things right and not have to drive back and forth trying to work the issue out with Goodyear.
My first step was to call the Goodyear 800 number. I asked if the tire might be repairable, and they said it might be as long as the hole isn't in the sidewall and isn't more than 1/4 inch. I asked if it were not repairable, is there any warranty left for my 3 1/2 year old car with 16,000 miles on the tire. They said yes, it has a road hazard warranty which, after the first year of ownership, is pro-rated based on tread left. Sounded more than fair to me.
I then went to their website and found a local dealer listed on their site. I called and asked if they could in fact repair my tire. They said yes. I then asked them to confirm the pro-rated warranty information I got from Goodyear directly. They told me there is no such thing.
I called Goodyear back. They told me that the authorized dealer I had called is wrong, and probably wrong because that particular dealer, while an "authorized" dealer, does not have their special certification to fix run flat tires. I noted that the dealer told me they could fix them, and even if they couldn't the dealer should be able to give me the same pro-rating as any other dealer if I was going to have to get a new tire from them anyway. Whatever, they didn't care.
I then tried to use their website to find a local dealer with the above certification. The search engine there isn't particulary good, since when I punched in my zip code it came up with no dealer with the certification within its mileage range, and I couldn't set the search to go futher and further out from my location to find dealers further away. So I called them again to get them to find me an authorized dealer with certification. They gave me the name of a place maybe 20 miles away which had their certification to fix run flats.
I called that place. They said that you can't fix a run flat, because after you do it doesn't "run flat" anymore. I told them that was odd since Goodyear had them listed as being specially certified to fix them. The guy told me to call back tomorrow after he spoke to the boss. I called back and he told me that maybe you can fix them, but they won't because of liability issues. By now I pretty much think the entire Goodyear organization is nuts.
I call back Goodyear again, report my odd conversation with the certified dealer, and ask for another. They tell me that the nearest other dealer is about 60 miles away -- further than I'm supposed to drive. I hang up and then try to work their dealer search function again by myself, and instead of punching in my zip, I start to punch in zips further away from my home to see what they come up with. I discover a Goodyear-owned dealership about 35 miles away, which has the certification. Why they didn't give me that location instead of the non-Goodyear owned location 60 miles away is anybody's guess, but bottom line I'm happy to find one closer than 50 miles.
I call them and they confirm that they repair run flats and are aware of the pro-rated road hazard warranty. I make an appointment. On my way I stop at a gas station and fill the tire with air. I'm thinking it must be a slow leak since I got all the way home without the tire pressure warning going off, and maybe if I fill it up the mileage to the dealer won't "count" against my 50 miles if something goes wrong and I later have to drive home on it.
I get there before the low pressure warning goes off. The guy looks at the "spike" in the tire and says they can't fix it because it's bigger than 1/4 inch. I say I'm not sure if it is, we can only see the outside of the metal (which appeared to be a touch less than 1/4 inch to me) , and maybe the hole is smaller than the exposed metal makes it seem. The guy pulls the metal out with pliers, and it's now clear that it was a 1/4 inch bolt that went through the tire, and the head of the bolt was outside the tire making it look like the hole might be bigger. But the guy says the hole is too big. I ask if I had pulled the bolt myself before coming over, wouldn't you agree that it might seem like less of a hole, since the hole itself closed in after the bolt was removed. He said it doesn't matter, because the blunt end of the bolt, unlike a nail, would have ruined the steel cords anyway and the tire can't be fixed.
As you might imagine, at this point I don't trust anything anybody from Goodyear tells me, but I ask him how much it will cost for a pro-rated replacement. The guy measures the tread and tells me he can give me half credit, so it will cost $230 (installed w/tax) for a new tire. This seems like a much bigger credit than I should have expected with 16,000 miles gone. I feel kind of stuck anyway given how far I've had to come to find anyone who even says he can repair the tire, and I am concerned about a weakened tire, so I tell him to do it. He says okay, in about 4 days after I order you a new one.
Now I'm really stuck. I don't want to leave my car for 4 days with strangers. I've already driven it 35 miles, and am unsure if that mileage counts toward the 50 I can safely drive, and the bolt has been removed so I can't just go to a gas station and fill it up. I decide to pull the bolt out of the trash, and get the guy to loan me his pliers so I can sort of screw the bolt back in the hole to possibly plug the air from leaking faster. He then tries to fill it with air for me, and watches his gauge go down quickly. He tells me it won't last, and to go to a gas station and buy a temporary plug, which may hold until I get home. I end up going to a station and just filling it with air, and for some reason it does last until I get home. I have no idea what was wrong with his gauge, but the air lasted fine, even after pulling and replacing the bolt.
A couple of days later I go to a station again, fill it again, and go back and have the tire replaced for the $230 quoted. (BTW, if I had planned to replace my current Supercars with new Supercars when they all wore out, this would have seemed like a great deal to me. Unfortunately I was planning to get a different brand, so having to throw my new replacement rear tire away to match my new tires sometime soon made the current purchase less than ideal.)
Anyway, I don't know if they could have repaired the tire or not. I don't know if the fact that the bolt is blunt rather than sharp-edged is a real issue. I did get a replacement tire at what I feel is a better than reasonable price. I would have had to pay full price for a new tire if I had gone to the first authorized dealer I found. I'm not at all sure what the true value of a run flat tire is if in fact it can't be fixed, given that 50 miles is too short of a driving allotment if every tire has to be replaced with a new one after you find a Goodyear store and then have to order the replacement anyway.
That's my story. Sorry it was so long, but any one of you might benefit from hearing any part of the tale, and there's no telling what's the most important aspect of it for you.
My advice: Don't run over a bolt.
Any comments will be welcome.
I've got about 16,000 miles on my '06 Coupe. About a month ago (took me a while to get to writing this) I heard a "pop" while driving to a golf course. I thought nothing of it. Played golf, drove home, no issues. The next morning when I started my car in the garage the dash informed me that the left rear tire was flat. I looked, and found a piece of metal embedded in the center of the tread, like a spike or something. I know I am only supposed to drive on it for 50 miles in that condition, so I wanted to do things right and not have to drive back and forth trying to work the issue out with Goodyear.
My first step was to call the Goodyear 800 number. I asked if the tire might be repairable, and they said it might be as long as the hole isn't in the sidewall and isn't more than 1/4 inch. I asked if it were not repairable, is there any warranty left for my 3 1/2 year old car with 16,000 miles on the tire. They said yes, it has a road hazard warranty which, after the first year of ownership, is pro-rated based on tread left. Sounded more than fair to me.
I then went to their website and found a local dealer listed on their site. I called and asked if they could in fact repair my tire. They said yes. I then asked them to confirm the pro-rated warranty information I got from Goodyear directly. They told me there is no such thing.
I called Goodyear back. They told me that the authorized dealer I had called is wrong, and probably wrong because that particular dealer, while an "authorized" dealer, does not have their special certification to fix run flat tires. I noted that the dealer told me they could fix them, and even if they couldn't the dealer should be able to give me the same pro-rating as any other dealer if I was going to have to get a new tire from them anyway. Whatever, they didn't care.
I then tried to use their website to find a local dealer with the above certification. The search engine there isn't particulary good, since when I punched in my zip code it came up with no dealer with the certification within its mileage range, and I couldn't set the search to go futher and further out from my location to find dealers further away. So I called them again to get them to find me an authorized dealer with certification. They gave me the name of a place maybe 20 miles away which had their certification to fix run flats.
I called that place. They said that you can't fix a run flat, because after you do it doesn't "run flat" anymore. I told them that was odd since Goodyear had them listed as being specially certified to fix them. The guy told me to call back tomorrow after he spoke to the boss. I called back and he told me that maybe you can fix them, but they won't because of liability issues. By now I pretty much think the entire Goodyear organization is nuts.
I call back Goodyear again, report my odd conversation with the certified dealer, and ask for another. They tell me that the nearest other dealer is about 60 miles away -- further than I'm supposed to drive. I hang up and then try to work their dealer search function again by myself, and instead of punching in my zip, I start to punch in zips further away from my home to see what they come up with. I discover a Goodyear-owned dealership about 35 miles away, which has the certification. Why they didn't give me that location instead of the non-Goodyear owned location 60 miles away is anybody's guess, but bottom line I'm happy to find one closer than 50 miles.
I call them and they confirm that they repair run flats and are aware of the pro-rated road hazard warranty. I make an appointment. On my way I stop at a gas station and fill the tire with air. I'm thinking it must be a slow leak since I got all the way home without the tire pressure warning going off, and maybe if I fill it up the mileage to the dealer won't "count" against my 50 miles if something goes wrong and I later have to drive home on it.
I get there before the low pressure warning goes off. The guy looks at the "spike" in the tire and says they can't fix it because it's bigger than 1/4 inch. I say I'm not sure if it is, we can only see the outside of the metal (which appeared to be a touch less than 1/4 inch to me) , and maybe the hole is smaller than the exposed metal makes it seem. The guy pulls the metal out with pliers, and it's now clear that it was a 1/4 inch bolt that went through the tire, and the head of the bolt was outside the tire making it look like the hole might be bigger. But the guy says the hole is too big. I ask if I had pulled the bolt myself before coming over, wouldn't you agree that it might seem like less of a hole, since the hole itself closed in after the bolt was removed. He said it doesn't matter, because the blunt end of the bolt, unlike a nail, would have ruined the steel cords anyway and the tire can't be fixed.
As you might imagine, at this point I don't trust anything anybody from Goodyear tells me, but I ask him how much it will cost for a pro-rated replacement. The guy measures the tread and tells me he can give me half credit, so it will cost $230 (installed w/tax) for a new tire. This seems like a much bigger credit than I should have expected with 16,000 miles gone. I feel kind of stuck anyway given how far I've had to come to find anyone who even says he can repair the tire, and I am concerned about a weakened tire, so I tell him to do it. He says okay, in about 4 days after I order you a new one.
Now I'm really stuck. I don't want to leave my car for 4 days with strangers. I've already driven it 35 miles, and am unsure if that mileage counts toward the 50 I can safely drive, and the bolt has been removed so I can't just go to a gas station and fill it up. I decide to pull the bolt out of the trash, and get the guy to loan me his pliers so I can sort of screw the bolt back in the hole to possibly plug the air from leaking faster. He then tries to fill it with air for me, and watches his gauge go down quickly. He tells me it won't last, and to go to a gas station and buy a temporary plug, which may hold until I get home. I end up going to a station and just filling it with air, and for some reason it does last until I get home. I have no idea what was wrong with his gauge, but the air lasted fine, even after pulling and replacing the bolt.
A couple of days later I go to a station again, fill it again, and go back and have the tire replaced for the $230 quoted. (BTW, if I had planned to replace my current Supercars with new Supercars when they all wore out, this would have seemed like a great deal to me. Unfortunately I was planning to get a different brand, so having to throw my new replacement rear tire away to match my new tires sometime soon made the current purchase less than ideal.)
Anyway, I don't know if they could have repaired the tire or not. I don't know if the fact that the bolt is blunt rather than sharp-edged is a real issue. I did get a replacement tire at what I feel is a better than reasonable price. I would have had to pay full price for a new tire if I had gone to the first authorized dealer I found. I'm not at all sure what the true value of a run flat tire is if in fact it can't be fixed, given that 50 miles is too short of a driving allotment if every tire has to be replaced with a new one after you find a Goodyear store and then have to order the replacement anyway.
That's my story. Sorry it was so long, but any one of you might benefit from hearing any part of the tale, and there's no telling what's the most important aspect of it for you.
My advice: Don't run over a bolt.
Any comments will be welcome.
11-20-2009, 04:28 PM
#2
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If your tires look anything like mine do at 17,000 miles I think I would probably have just bought 4 new tires. I'd be throwing away a few thousand miles of use on the supercars, but they're crummy tires anyway. You can get Firestone Wide Oval's for not much more per tire than you paid for the replacement.
Still, it sounds like you got a reasonable deal on the warranty. I sure don't have half the tread left on mine.
Still, it sounds like you got a reasonable deal on the warranty. I sure don't have half the tread left on mine.
11-20-2009, 04:31 PM
#3
Drifting
More shocking than your story is the fact that you got 16k out of a set of Goodyear F1 Super Car run flat tires....especially up front!!You must drive very easy.
Ron
Ron
11-20-2009, 04:47 PM
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Here is a link to a Goodyear webpage about fixing runflats: http://www.goodyear.com/cfmx/web/gov...e/psb_9811.cfm On this page it states that a properly repaired runflat maintains it's speed rating including Y and Z rated tires. A similar webpage used to be accessible from the www.goodyear.com webpage.
11-20-2009, 04:53 PM
#6
Pro
Thread Starter
11-20-2009, 05:22 PM
#7
I don't know much about this, but I suspect you got home before the air pressure sensor went off in part because the sensor does not (in my understanding) rapidly update. I vaguely recall someone suggesting it could take 15 minutes to take another reading, and you can travel a fair way in that time.
That said, yeah, that Goodyear network sounds like more of a bandaid than an oiled machine, but the pro-rated warranty is impressive. It's a shame that it wasn't the best fix for your situation :-/
That said, yeah, that Goodyear network sounds like more of a bandaid than an oiled machine, but the pro-rated warranty is impressive. It's a shame that it wasn't the best fix for your situation :-/
11-20-2009, 05:36 PM
#8
Team Owner
I don't know much about this, but I suspect you got home before the air pressure sensor went off in part because the sensor does not (in my understanding) rapidly update. I vaguely recall someone suggesting it could take 15 minutes to take another reading, and you can travel a fair way in that time.
That said, yeah, that Goodyear network sounds like more of a bandaid than an oiled machine, but the pro-rated warranty is impressive. It's a shame that it wasn't the best fix for your situation :-/
That said, yeah, that Goodyear network sounds like more of a bandaid than an oiled machine, but the pro-rated warranty is impressive. It's a shame that it wasn't the best fix for your situation :-/
11-20-2009, 05:39 PM
#9
Safety Car
had a similar experience so I feel your pain and frustration. my solution was to take the tire and wheel off and go to the certified dealer with same. once there, I got the same "no warranty" comment so I produced the booklet that came with the tires and had the dealer call the GY hot line. they told him that there was indeed a warranty and he then proceeded to fix the tire. his only comment was "you learn something new every day"! I told him yes that was right but I did not appreciate that it was on my time that he had to learn to do his job!
firestone RFT's for me on the next set!
firestone RFT's for me on the next set!
11-20-2009, 05:46 PM
#10
Melting Slicks
I feel your pain.. I just went to a local guy and he fixed it from the inside with a patch. not sure if it's correct or not, but the point is moot anyway.. I just got 4 new michelins that are all season high performance RF's.. Great tires....
/joe
/joe
11-20-2009, 05:51 PM
#11
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FL Events Coordinator
Here is a link to a Goodyear webpage about fixing runflats: http://www.goodyear.com/cfmx/web/gov...e/psb_9811.cfm On this page it states that a properly repaired runflat maintains it's speed rating including Y and Z rated tires. A similar webpage used to be accessible from the www.goodyear.com webpage.
Provided it is fixed using the "patch/plug" method. I had a nail in the middle of right rear tire after 13 months of ownership and 12,000 miles. I had it fixed at a local tire shop who is authorized to fix run flats and GY sent me a check for the cost of the repair.
11-20-2009, 05:54 PM
#12
Team Owner
Got the same runaround back in 1998 or 99 with my C5. Then, Goodyear had a place on their website so you could click on and find the locations of run flat repair dealers. I tried it and found it as accurate as what the OP found out when making all those calls. Shortly after that, Goodyear removed the link from their website. I replaced the Goodyears with Michelins and will do the same when I wear out the Supercars on my 09 Z06. Goodyear dosen't deserve a second chance for my business, in my opinion. I just wish GM would let us choose the brand of tire we want on our new Corvettes.
11-20-2009, 06:08 PM
#13
Melting Slicks
Well...
None of the story suprized me... It is all about money... nobody wants to step up to the plate until you force them... It is a shame to run a business that way, and they will not see repeat customers. 
11-20-2009, 10:33 PM
#14
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St. Jude Donor '13
Couple of years ago I had an experience similar to the OP, although I just wanted to get some GY runflats swapped from one set of wheels to another.
The GY website told me store A in my town was RF certified but store B was not, the GY phone line told me store B was certified but not A was not.
Nobody at GY headquarters or either store knew their @$$ from a hole in the ground.
Finally had the local Firestone dealer do the job, same people who do the GY RF work for my dealer.
Pretty pathetic.
At least GY will allow repairs on their runflats, the official Firestone policy is any FS runflat which has been driven at all with less than 15 psi is non-repairable, period.
The GY website told me store A in my town was RF certified but store B was not, the GY phone line told me store B was certified but not A was not.
Nobody at GY headquarters or either store knew their @$$ from a hole in the ground.
Finally had the local Firestone dealer do the job, same people who do the GY RF work for my dealer.
Pretty pathetic.
At least GY will allow repairs on their runflats, the official Firestone policy is any FS runflat which has been driven at all with less than 15 psi is non-repairable, period.
Last edited by Gearhead Jim; 11-20-2009 at 10:35 PM.
11-20-2009, 10:42 PM
#15
Pro
Thread Starter
I don't know much about this, but I suspect you got home before the air pressure sensor went off in part because the sensor does not (in my understanding) rapidly update. I vaguely recall someone suggesting it could take 15 minutes to take another reading, and you can travel a fair way in that time.
That said, yeah, that Goodyear network sounds like more of a bandaid than an oiled machine, but the pro-rated warranty is impressive. It's a shame that it wasn't the best fix for your situation :-/
That said, yeah, that Goodyear network sounds like more of a bandaid than an oiled machine, but the pro-rated warranty is impressive. It's a shame that it wasn't the best fix for your situation :-/
I don't want to suggest that someone else do this "over fill the air and drive more than 50 miles" thing that I did because it may not be safe. But for whatever reason, even with the bolt sticking out of my tire, it worked out for me. (I drove slowly in case I was inviting trouble my way.)
11-20-2009, 11:34 PM
#16
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Hey Joe: How are those Michelin Pilot Sport AS ZP runflats working out for you? I've been thinking about a set of those, but wasn't sure about performance fall off compared to Goodyear F1 EMT, Firestone Wide Oval RF or the Michelin Pilot Sport ZP. I don't have AS tires on any of my cars (no snow here in FL, but we get torrential rain) so I'm hoping I won't regret the loss of dry grip because I saved a few bucks by buying the Michelin AS ZP tires (and getting a 45K mi. tread life warranty). What is your experience -- have you white-knuckled any sweepers? I've heard the noise reduction and improved ride quality of the Michelin AS ZP is enough for some folks to offset performance loss. Will appreciate your insight. Thanks.
11-20-2009, 11:50 PM
#17
Moderator
Here's the official Goodyear procedure/limits for run flats:
According to the above, only an inspection from the inside of the tire could determine if the tire was repairable or not:
Goodyear Run Flat Repair Procedure
REPAIR PROCEDURE
1. CAREFULLY REMOVE THE TIRE COMPLETELY FROM THE RIM.
2. Locate the puncture on the inside of the tire and circle with crayon.
3. Remove puncturing object if it is still in the tire.
4. Carefully inspect tire on a good tire spreader, with ample light, which will show any cracks, breaks, punctures, damaged or broken beads.
5. Check liner for cuts, cracks, or holes which may cause the tubeless liner to lose air.
6. Check the injury with an inspection awl:
(a)Determine size and angle of injury.
(b)Check for ply or belt separation.
7. Reject any tire that has separation, loose cords, damaged bead(s), or any other non-repairable injury.
8. If the hole is simple and round, steps 9 through 17 of the puncture repair procedure will be successful.
NOTE: If the hole shows evidence of fabric splitting, such an injury cannot be properly repaired using this puncture repair procedure. Such an injury must be skived out and repaired as a section (reinforced) repair, which will maintain the serviceability of the tire, but will invalidate the tire's speed rating. If a section repair is necessary, the customer must be advised, before the repair is made, that the tire will lose its speed rating, and must not exceed operation at normal highway speeds.
9. Use a pre-buff cleaner and a scraper to remove contaminants from the liner in the area to be buffed around the injury.
10. Use a 7/32"carbide cutter for 1/4" repairs to clean out the puncture.
(a)Make sure that the drill follows the direction of the puncturing object.
(b)Always drill from inside to outside of tire.
11. Using chemical vulcanizing cement, lightly coat at least 1/2 of the tapered end of the repair plug. Install the plug in the prepared puncture according to the manufacturer's instructions. Trim the liner side of the plug slightly higher than the surface of the liner without stretching the plug.
12. Center the patch (or patch template) over the injury without removing the backing. Adhere to patch or template instructions, as to positioning as related to bead location. Mark around the outside edge of the patch, approximately 1/4" larger than the patch.
13. Buff the liner and plug at the puncture location. The buffed area should be slightly larger than the patch. The buffed surface should be finely grained (RMA 1 or 2 texture) and even for proper bonding. Use care to prevent burning the rubber with the buffing tool. Do not buff through the liner. Do not buff into the marking crayon.
14. Clean the buffing dust from the tire using only a vacuum or brush. Do not use gasoline or other petroleum solvents on the buffed area.
15. Coat the buffed liner surface and the patch with one evenly applied coat of chemical vulcanizing cement in accordance with the recommendations of the repair materials manufacturer. Allow the cement to dry thoroughly. Do not touch the cemented areas.
16. Install the patch with the beads of the tire in the relaxed position. Position the patch over the puncture according to the markings on the patch. Stitch the entire patch starting from the center, keeping the strokes close together to avoid trapping air under the patch.
17. Cut off the protruding end of the plug about 1/8" above the tread surface.
18. FINAL INSPECTION - The repair must seal the inner liner and fill the injury. After remounting and inflating check the repair, both beads and valve with a soap solution to assure a complete seal.
REPAIR PROCEDURE
1. CAREFULLY REMOVE THE TIRE COMPLETELY FROM THE RIM.
2. Locate the puncture on the inside of the tire and circle with crayon.
3. Remove puncturing object if it is still in the tire.
4. Carefully inspect tire on a good tire spreader, with ample light, which will show any cracks, breaks, punctures, damaged or broken beads.
5. Check liner for cuts, cracks, or holes which may cause the tubeless liner to lose air.
6. Check the injury with an inspection awl:
(a)Determine size and angle of injury.
(b)Check for ply or belt separation.
7. Reject any tire that has separation, loose cords, damaged bead(s), or any other non-repairable injury.
8. If the hole is simple and round, steps 9 through 17 of the puncture repair procedure will be successful.
NOTE: If the hole shows evidence of fabric splitting, such an injury cannot be properly repaired using this puncture repair procedure. Such an injury must be skived out and repaired as a section (reinforced) repair, which will maintain the serviceability of the tire, but will invalidate the tire's speed rating. If a section repair is necessary, the customer must be advised, before the repair is made, that the tire will lose its speed rating, and must not exceed operation at normal highway speeds.
9. Use a pre-buff cleaner and a scraper to remove contaminants from the liner in the area to be buffed around the injury.
10. Use a 7/32"carbide cutter for 1/4" repairs to clean out the puncture.
(a)Make sure that the drill follows the direction of the puncturing object.
(b)Always drill from inside to outside of tire.
11. Using chemical vulcanizing cement, lightly coat at least 1/2 of the tapered end of the repair plug. Install the plug in the prepared puncture according to the manufacturer's instructions. Trim the liner side of the plug slightly higher than the surface of the liner without stretching the plug.
12. Center the patch (or patch template) over the injury without removing the backing. Adhere to patch or template instructions, as to positioning as related to bead location. Mark around the outside edge of the patch, approximately 1/4" larger than the patch.
13. Buff the liner and plug at the puncture location. The buffed area should be slightly larger than the patch. The buffed surface should be finely grained (RMA 1 or 2 texture) and even for proper bonding. Use care to prevent burning the rubber with the buffing tool. Do not buff through the liner. Do not buff into the marking crayon.
14. Clean the buffing dust from the tire using only a vacuum or brush. Do not use gasoline or other petroleum solvents on the buffed area.
15. Coat the buffed liner surface and the patch with one evenly applied coat of chemical vulcanizing cement in accordance with the recommendations of the repair materials manufacturer. Allow the cement to dry thoroughly. Do not touch the cemented areas.
16. Install the patch with the beads of the tire in the relaxed position. Position the patch over the puncture according to the markings on the patch. Stitch the entire patch starting from the center, keeping the strokes close together to avoid trapping air under the patch.
17. Cut off the protruding end of the plug about 1/8" above the tread surface.
18. FINAL INSPECTION - The repair must seal the inner liner and fill the injury. After remounting and inflating check the repair, both beads and valve with a soap solution to assure a complete seal.
Goodyear Speed-Rated Tire Repair Limits
II. DETAILED POLICY - Puncture Repair of Goodyear Speed-Rated Tires
The puncture must be confined to the tread area only.
(See "Repair Area", item III-B).
Restrictions on the number and size of repairs must be followed.
(See "Puncture Repair Limits" table, item III-C).
A detailed repair procedure must be followed.
(See "Repair Procedure", item III-E).
A Goodyear speed-rated new tire repaired in strict accordance with items II-A, B & C, will retain its speed rating.
III. REPAIR PROCEDURE FOR SPEED-RATED TIRES
GENERAL
The objective of the puncture repair is to seal the tire against loss of inflation pressure and to prevent damage to the carcass from moisture. In all puncture repairs approved by Goodyear, the hole must be filled with a plug, and a patch covering the hole must be applied according to repair material manufacturer instructions to the inside of the tire. Never repair tires which are worn below 2/32" tread depth.
NOTE: No tire is to be repaired without first being removed from the rim.
REPAIR AREA
Repairing is limited to the tread area only within the outside grooves. No repairs are allowed in the tread area beyond the outside grooves or sidewall.
PUNCTURE REPAIR LIMITS
TIRE SPEED...............MAX. NUMBER...........MAX REPAIR
(SPEED SYMBOL)................................. ....DIAMETER
130 mph and over ...........1......................1/4 in. (6mm)
(H, V, Z)
II. DETAILED POLICY - Puncture Repair of Goodyear Speed-Rated Tires
The puncture must be confined to the tread area only.
(See "Repair Area", item III-B).
Restrictions on the number and size of repairs must be followed.
(See "Puncture Repair Limits" table, item III-C).
A detailed repair procedure must be followed.
(See "Repair Procedure", item III-E).
A Goodyear speed-rated new tire repaired in strict accordance with items II-A, B & C, will retain its speed rating.
III. REPAIR PROCEDURE FOR SPEED-RATED TIRES
GENERAL
The objective of the puncture repair is to seal the tire against loss of inflation pressure and to prevent damage to the carcass from moisture. In all puncture repairs approved by Goodyear, the hole must be filled with a plug, and a patch covering the hole must be applied according to repair material manufacturer instructions to the inside of the tire. Never repair tires which are worn below 2/32" tread depth.
NOTE: No tire is to be repaired without first being removed from the rim.
REPAIR AREA
Repairing is limited to the tread area only within the outside grooves. No repairs are allowed in the tread area beyond the outside grooves or sidewall.
PUNCTURE REPAIR LIMITS
TIRE SPEED...............MAX. NUMBER...........MAX REPAIR
(SPEED SYMBOL)................................. ....DIAMETER
130 mph and over ...........1......................1/4 in. (6mm)
(H, V, Z)
Carefully inspect tire on a good tire spreader, with ample light, which will show any cracks, breaks, punctures, damaged or broken beads.
Check liner for cuts, cracks, or holes which may cause the tubeless liner to lose air.
Check the injury with an inspection awl:
(a)Determine size and angle of injury.
(b)Check for ply or belt separation.
Reject any tire that has separation, loose cords, damaged bead(s), or any other non-repairable injury.
If the hole is simple and round, steps 9 through 17 of the puncture repair procedure will be successful.
NOTE: If the hole shows evidence of fabric splitting, such an injury cannot be properly repaired using this puncture repair procedure. Such an injury must be skived out and repaired as a section (reinforced) repair, which will maintain the serviceability of the tire, but will invalidate the tire's speed rating. If a section repair is necessary, the customer must be advised, before the repair is made, that the tire will lose its speed rating, and must not exceed operation at normal highway speeds.
Check liner for cuts, cracks, or holes which may cause the tubeless liner to lose air.
Check the injury with an inspection awl:
(a)Determine size and angle of injury.
(b)Check for ply or belt separation.
Reject any tire that has separation, loose cords, damaged bead(s), or any other non-repairable injury.
If the hole is simple and round, steps 9 through 17 of the puncture repair procedure will be successful.
NOTE: If the hole shows evidence of fabric splitting, such an injury cannot be properly repaired using this puncture repair procedure. Such an injury must be skived out and repaired as a section (reinforced) repair, which will maintain the serviceability of the tire, but will invalidate the tire's speed rating. If a section repair is necessary, the customer must be advised, before the repair is made, that the tire will lose its speed rating, and must not exceed operation at normal highway speeds.
11-21-2009, 12:00 AM
#18
Moderator
I found the following locations that are run flat certified within 50 miles of Stanford using the Goodyear locator (http://www.goodyeardealers.com/cfmx/...&country=usa):
SAMS CLUB 6674
333 Sawmill River Road
Elmsford, NY 10523
MALLORY KOTZEN TIRE
5 Warehouse Ln
Elmsford, NY 10523
MALLORY KOTZEN TIRE
20 East Main St
New Rochelle, NY 10801
Were any of these the ones that GY gave you over the phone?
SAMS CLUB 6674
333 Sawmill River Road
Elmsford, NY 10523
MALLORY KOTZEN TIRE
5 Warehouse Ln
Elmsford, NY 10523
MALLORY KOTZEN TIRE
20 East Main St
New Rochelle, NY 10801
Were any of these the ones that GY gave you over the phone?
11-21-2009, 12:01 AM
#19
Drifting
Member Since: Oct 2008
Location: DFW TX
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11-21-2009, 09:13 AM
#20
Team Owner
Member Since: Jun 2005
Location: Northern, VA
Posts: 46,104
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St. Jude Donor '15
"In honor of jpee"
Say Mark, maybe I shouldn't admit this (I did just go look to make sure I wasn't BS'ing 
), but my fronts have about 21K and they're still good to go with lots of tread. I did have 2 alignments in that time tho.
Finding good tire fix places is a definite crapshoot. I can fully empathize with the OP, and the others who posted above. I guess it's too much to ask Goodyear to 'police' its stores, but they sure have given up a lot customers to other brands.
), but my fronts have about 21K and they're still good to go with lots of tread. I did have 2 alignments in that time tho.Finding good tire fix places is a definite crapshoot. I can fully empathize with the OP, and the others who posted above. I guess it's too much to ask Goodyear to 'police' its stores, but they sure have given up a lot customers to other brands.