C6ToGo

When I search HUD installs, I see no step by step from anyone who did it by cutting the duct.
Some say they were able to pull it out of the way.
Some cut the right side and broke the left side bracket.
Some cut each end of the duct...

Who can give me their brief step by step??

vettn71

Jim

JC-06LMB

You can do the install without cutting the duct. If you loosen all the dash bolts on the drivers side there is just enought room to muscle the HUD projector in. It will definitely require some finesse. the only issue I had was a one inch long crack the I put in the underside of the duct which I had to patch. The whole install took less than two hours.

filmjay

I just took my duct out and replaced it when I was done. It's just a plastic slip-fit piece of tubing.

TFocker

No fasteners or anything to undo? So you just pulled the cluster and that gave you enough room to remove the duct and get it back in without any damage?
I'll be stoked if this is the case.

op z

I cut as large a section of the duct as I could and taped it back in.

upperdeck

I cut both left and right sides of the duct with a hacksaw blade, zipped through the plastic in a big hurry. made sliding the projector in a breeze. Taping the duct back in was easy too. You'll need someone with small hands to put the bolts in that hold down the projector, especially the deeper ones on the left side. I had my wife do it. You don't want to drop the bolt since getting it out would be a nightmare!

gibear2k5

Well, I was going to wait until tomorrow, but I thought I'd get a head start on the install tonight. I tried to take a few pictures as I went along however some didn't come out (too dark.) It took me about an hour to remove the cluster, cut the upper duct, install HUD assembly, and reattach/epoxy the duct. Tomorrow I'll splice in the wiring and put it all back together, I'm thinking about an hour and half or so left.

Cluster removed...


Duct removed...


After 30 minutes the area was clear and ready for the HUD assembly...


HUD assembly in-place...

kp

I just cut the RH side and broke the LH side, looks like thats what you did as well. There is also a bolt on LH side duct so breaking the bracket isnt as big of a deal as it sounds.

I also slotted the tabs on the projector itself, its a tight fit to get the projector over the studs with the dash bolted in, the two cut slots let it slide right in.

I never did one before and I was done in under 2.5 hours, I just duct taped the duct back together, seemed solid enough.

Zoomin

Splice? I thought there was a harness kit?

gibear2k5

yeppers,

The custom harness connects to both the HUD assembly and Cluster HUD controls. You still have to splice into the engine and vehicle speed sensors, HUD class 2 serial data, battery voltage, and a few grounds and power leads.

gibear2k5

Yes I did. I also added a little more foam between the two ducts, I noticed mine were chaffing and that may have been the source of a funny squeaking sound I occasionally heard.

Hm-mm....mine required very little effort. Basically, I installed the right side on the stud first and than was able to lift the left side onto the stud; no problem.

Any advice for me on the wiring?

mwells

Just buy the inline Red splicers from Radio Shack. Very easy to do. Remove some tape, find the right wire, put the red splicer around it, but the new wire on the other side the red splicer and squeeze. Really easy.

kp

I just used the red taps, I was going to solder them but I just used the taps after seeing how much room there is behind the cluster.

I tried to get mine in but I thought something was going to break getting it over the LH stud after I got it on the right. It took 10 seconds to slot the plastic and it just slid right in. I probably could have got it in without doing it but why fight it and it wont affect anything.

gibear2k5

Ah..I guess I'm cheap....LOL. I soldered and heat shrink-ed each wire. Wanted to use my new butane iron I received for Christmas.

I'm real happy with the install. Contrast and clarity are PERFECT (well, as perfect as my 40yo eyes go) and no blur!

From start to finish it took about two hours, the second time around I'm sure it can be done in an 1/2 that time.

Anyone in the Southern Maryland area that's on the fence and wants some help, let me know. You can bring everything by and we can install it together.

Later,
Scott

cranmans.c6

I followed this method yesterday (link video below) with success! Here are my added tips.... No need to cut the bottom duck (as pictured below). Warm the car/run the heater before you began/get the plastic warm, so it's not brittle and safer to remove. Using a "pin" soldering iron to cut the ends (thick plastic) of the top duct and a razor knife (3" inch blade) provided a clean cut and easy duct removal which in turn was simple to mend with aluminum tape! Note: W/large hands the right hand 10mm HUD bolt removal is very tight with wrench or socket (I don't have air-tools - which may have been quick). Nonetheless, after a few cuts and scrapes on my hands, I employed my 16 year old son w/smaller hands to wrench it out!

Fixing the HUD was a 10 minute process.

I discovered that the projector mounting bracket broke around the mounting screws causing the mirror to fall the pivot pin. I simply applied two (rubber/metal) washers to secure the bracket & remount the mirror! Cutting the tabs on the projector made the re-installation process fast! Two Hours and my HUD works great!!

<iframe width="640" height="360" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/A-iAJguY9xQ?feature=player_embedded" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

4SUMERZ

^^ the you tube video will not open.

Here it is

RoadkingC6

Just a suggestion after the epoxy dries on the duct I would get some of the aluminum foil type of tape insulators use and wrap where you cut the duct.

rrmracer9

tackled this today on my C6. Sure glad mine is a Vert. In and out of that thing a hundred times in multiple contorted positions, but finally got it done. Used a cable saw on the duct. Very clean, quick cut.