Changing Brake Fluid & Baster Method
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Changing Brake Fluid & Baster Method
Just like the clutch fluid change with a baster, is there any benefit at all to use the baster method of change out the brake fluid 3 or 4 times? I don't really want to climb under the car, and wondered if this half @ss method has Any merits at all?
Thanks.
Thanks.
#2
Le Mans Master
Thats how i bleed mine. Remove brake fluid from master cylinder, put new fluid in and just crack the bleeder on each wheel. Just make sure you dont run the reservoir out. I hope that helps. RR,LF,LR,RF wheel sequence.
#3
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Thanks for the reply. I should have made my above post more clear.
I'm just wanting to remove the fluid from the master cylinder and not actually bleed the brakes.
Any benefit at all?
I'm just wanting to remove the fluid from the master cylinder and not actually bleed the brakes.
Any benefit at all?
#4
Race Director
So.....TexasMadMan, if that's what you mean - that you don't want to bleed the brakes - I don't think that just swapping fluid in the m/c (even several times) is going to give you a satisfactory flush of your brake system.
It works okay in the clutch because the line is quite short and the system holds very little fluid overall.
The brake system has a lot of fluid in the lines going out to all the brakes, especially the rear brakes.
If you want to do a satisfactory flush of your brake fluid to get new stuff all throughout the brake system, you need to bleed the brakes by opening the bleed valves at each wheel to get new fluid all the way through the long lines out to each wheel.
Even that won't get the fluid swapped out in the ABS circuits. To do that you really need to use a Tech 2 to open the valves in those circuits while bleeding. Although, you can sorta DIY by doing a system flush, going out and doing a few stops getting into the ABS, then going back to your shop and flush again - that will give you a half-azzed ABS flush.
Bob
#6
Race Director
Works great...empty and drive it a week and do it again...after about 24 ounces or so...three or four weeks it will be clear an stay that way...Probably not as "good' as bleeding but it made a huge difference in my truck with 60 k...so good in fact I did it on all our vehicles. it changed the pedal modulation dramatically..
Now I am doing it every time I do the clutch...cause I can...fliud is always clear.
Now I am doing it every time I do the clutch...cause I can...fliud is always clear.
#7
Le Mans Master
zvett
#11
Team Owner
Hmmmm.....I think what TexasMadMan wants to do is not bleed the brakes at all! He doesn't want to crack the bleed valves and drain fluid from the system.
So.....TexasMadMan, if that's what you mean - that you don't want to bleed the brakes - I don't think that just swapping fluid in the m/c (even several times) is going to give you a satisfactory flush of your brake system.
It works okay in the clutch because the line is quite short and the system holds very little fluid overall.
The brake system has a lot of fluid in the lines going out to all the brakes, especially the rear brakes.
If you want to do a satisfactory flush of your brake fluid to get new stuff all throughout the brake system, you need to bleed the brakes by opening the bleed valves at each wheel to get new fluid all the way through the long lines out to each wheel.
Even that won't get the fluid swapped out in the ABS circuits. To do that you really need to use a Tech 2 to open the valves in those circuits while bleeding. Although, you can sorta DIY by doing a system flush, going out and doing a few stops getting into the ABS, then going back to your shop and flush again - that will give you a half-azzed ABS flush.
Bob
So.....TexasMadMan, if that's what you mean - that you don't want to bleed the brakes - I don't think that just swapping fluid in the m/c (even several times) is going to give you a satisfactory flush of your brake system.
It works okay in the clutch because the line is quite short and the system holds very little fluid overall.
The brake system has a lot of fluid in the lines going out to all the brakes, especially the rear brakes.
If you want to do a satisfactory flush of your brake fluid to get new stuff all throughout the brake system, you need to bleed the brakes by opening the bleed valves at each wheel to get new fluid all the way through the long lines out to each wheel.
Even that won't get the fluid swapped out in the ABS circuits. To do that you really need to use a Tech 2 to open the valves in those circuits while bleeding. Although, you can sorta DIY by doing a system flush, going out and doing a few stops getting into the ABS, then going back to your shop and flush again - that will give you a half-azzed ABS flush.
Bob
#12
#13
Melting Slicks
Hmmmm.....I think what TexasMadMan wants to do is not bleed the brakes at all! He doesn't want to crack the bleed valves and drain fluid from the system.
So.....TexasMadMan, if that's what you mean - that you don't want to bleed the brakes - I don't think that just swapping fluid in the m/c (even several times) is going to give you a satisfactory flush of your brake system.
It works okay in the clutch because the line is quite short and the system holds very little fluid overall.
The brake system has a lot of fluid in the lines going out to all the brakes, especially the rear brakes.
If you want to do a satisfactory flush of your brake fluid to get new stuff all throughout the brake system, you need to bleed the brakes by opening the bleed valves at each wheel to get new fluid all the way through the long lines out to each wheel.
Even that won't get the fluid swapped out in the ABS circuits. To do that you really need to use a Tech 2 to open the valves in those circuits while bleeding. Although, you can sorta DIY by doing a system flush, going out and doing a few stops getting into the ABS, then going back to your shop and flush again - that will give you a half-azzed ABS flush.
Bob
So.....TexasMadMan, if that's what you mean - that you don't want to bleed the brakes - I don't think that just swapping fluid in the m/c (even several times) is going to give you a satisfactory flush of your brake system.
It works okay in the clutch because the line is quite short and the system holds very little fluid overall.
The brake system has a lot of fluid in the lines going out to all the brakes, especially the rear brakes.
If you want to do a satisfactory flush of your brake fluid to get new stuff all throughout the brake system, you need to bleed the brakes by opening the bleed valves at each wheel to get new fluid all the way through the long lines out to each wheel.
Even that won't get the fluid swapped out in the ABS circuits. To do that you really need to use a Tech 2 to open the valves in those circuits while bleeding. Although, you can sorta DIY by doing a system flush, going out and doing a few stops getting into the ABS, then going back to your shop and flush again - that will give you a half-azzed ABS flush.
Bob
Yep.
#14
CF Senior Member
Member Since: Feb 2006
Location: Tucson Arizona
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18 Posts
FWIW I'm sure there's good DIY instructional info posted here on the forum. You'll find changing brake fluid and bleeding the brakes isn't all that difficult. You can do it with a friend (working the brake pedal) or do it solo using an inexpensive Motive Power Bleeder to pressurize the system. As mentioned you won't be able to exercise the ABS circuits but for all practical purposes you can do the job. Bleeding the brake lines every so often is a good idea. If you just don't want to mess with it call the dealership or a service shop...I can't imagine they'd charge all that much just to change the brake fluid.
#15
Melting Slicks
The reason people use the baster method to do the clutch is because it's a PITA to do it at the slave cylinder.
The brakes are easier to do. Just changing out the fluid in the master cylinder isn't doing anything for the fluid that's stuck in the lines and calipers 15' away.
#16
Melting Slicks
I beg to disagree that siphoning out the clutch fluid does not do anything, it sure as hell does! Do a search on here for the Ranger method.
When I got mine the clutch fluid was really black and the rubber valve inside the reservoir was getting a tad poor looking. Sucked out and refilled the reservoir 2 or 3 times. Came back a week later and did it agin 2 or 3 times. Now after say 1.5 bottles of new stuff, the fluid in the reservoir is like new! Better pedal feel also....now every time I wash the car I pull the cap and inspect the clutch fluid....nice and light amber color, always. Total cost so far, oh about $5 or less......
So to the nay sayer's, bullbleep, do it. It works! And it sure as hell beats crawling under and bleeding the entire system...there is more than one way to skin the cat as they say...!!
When I got mine the clutch fluid was really black and the rubber valve inside the reservoir was getting a tad poor looking. Sucked out and refilled the reservoir 2 or 3 times. Came back a week later and did it agin 2 or 3 times. Now after say 1.5 bottles of new stuff, the fluid in the reservoir is like new! Better pedal feel also....now every time I wash the car I pull the cap and inspect the clutch fluid....nice and light amber color, always. Total cost so far, oh about $5 or less......
So to the nay sayer's, bullbleep, do it. It works! And it sure as hell beats crawling under and bleeding the entire system...there is more than one way to skin the cat as they say...!!
#17
Race Director
Just did my clutch fluid yesterday. Hardly even gets dirty since I do it often.
#18
Melting Slicks
oops....my apologies. I mis-read the initial question and thought this was about CLUTCH fluid. So, kindly disregard my stupid comments about changing the clutch fluid.... getting old I guess, or brainless.....
#19
Race Director
While it is true the brake fluid doesn't work in a continuous loop it is also not entirely stationary either. It pulses back and forth...sorta. If you are driving the car and you change just what is in the reservoir and drive the car a week or so you will see it dirty up If it was perfectly stationary this couldn't happen....Do it several times over a month or so and it finally stays clean juts like the clutch fluid and even firms brakes up IF the fluid is really dirty to begin with...say 60k miles or so.
On my truck I had to press the brake pedal hard enough for it (the pedal) to creak loudly during normal stops...After a large bottle poured in over a month to 6 weeks time it firmed up so as not to hear a peep and stops better too.......10k miles later the fluid is still clear and quiet as a mouse...
The clutch method works for me as well and I have found that doing it every 2500 miles and it stays clear all the time....with only one or two changes and 50 pumps or so it stays clear and clutch pedal modulation is all good.
The ranger method is great.
On my truck I had to press the brake pedal hard enough for it (the pedal) to creak loudly during normal stops...After a large bottle poured in over a month to 6 weeks time it firmed up so as not to hear a peep and stops better too.......10k miles later the fluid is still clear and quiet as a mouse...
The clutch method works for me as well and I have found that doing it every 2500 miles and it stays clear all the time....with only one or two changes and 50 pumps or so it stays clear and clutch pedal modulation is all good.
The ranger method is great.
#20
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Thanks for the responses. Looks like we have hung jury on this one, although the "No votes" are in the majority.
Would anyone disagree that by changing the fluid this way, that it's not going to hurt the brakes?
Would anyone disagree that by changing the fluid this way, that it's not going to hurt the brakes?