takeman

I ended up with Dynamat for the same reason - NOISE. So much quieter and alot less heat. I went a littel bonkers tho and gutted the whole interior and went to town. I never would have thought I could have gotten something similar in the roofing section, good deal!

I dont race so I was not worried about the extra 20lbs. Cost was around $130

etaylor14

Thanks for the post Floyd,I'll be doing my 07 this week!!!!!!!

VictoryVette

Takeman- where did you find that much dynamat for 130? Seems like a good price to me.. If it costs 60 to peel as seal just the hatch then 130 in dynamat for the entire car isn't bad at all.

FloydSummerOf68

$130 for dynamat seems like an awesome deal.

I'm going back to pick up another roll of Peel and Seal tomorrow to do behind the seats.

My impressions at 70 mph with the 2.56 gears are that 70 is still annoying, but 75 is now completely tolerable (before I needed to get up to 80mph or be below 65). I'm hoping that covering the the section behind the seats allows for cruising at 70 to be nice

cmonkey713

I may do this for a winter time mod. While the interior is out of the car is time for some other upgrades. I know that DynaMat has several different grades of products that are used for different purposes. Checking the cost of DynaMat it will run about $400 to do the whole car. Peel and Stick is a bargain compared to Dynamat but will the same thickness get the same result? Maybe a blend of the two could save some $$ and get better results than doing everything with the Peel and Seal. Interesting option to look at. Thanks for posting on this.

d.medic

off to Lowes

FloydSummerOf68

I hope more people post results once they're done

I definitely recommend doing two layers like I did. I don't think a single layer would have produced enough of a difference. 3 rolls will almost do two layers in the back.

I think a single roll will just about get 2 layers one the sections behind the seat...will report back once I get it done. I was hoping to do it this evening, but I have a prior engagement to attend to. It'll have to wait until Friday.

takeman

I just double checked, it was a little more than that (like $30 w/tape) I got a great deal on ebay and I ended up buying a little more on Amazon.

I also used a kit offered by a member here (name escapes me) on top of the Dynamat. I reduced noise levels by approximately 12-14db

d.medic

I'm going to stop and get some on the way home from cars and cafe this weekend. Won't get to it till next week; but I will report back
Anything to help with my drone zone!

j_digi454

I stopped at my local Lowe's today and they didn't have any nor did they really know what I was talking about. I went to the roofing department first, they sent me to the heating/ductwork area and said that's where I would find it, not so.

I then stopped at Home Depot, same results.

Nick996

Peel and Seal product.

http://www.mfmbp.com/roofmem.html

I googled and found it in like 5 seconds.

Also found.....

http://www.b-quiet.com/

I can personally say to everyone "Stay away from Fatmat". It's not worth the $$$. Dynamat Extreme is the best.

5 Liter Eater

Good deal Shawn. I heard Shawn's exhaust a few weeks ago as did the LEO that followed him out of Cars and Coffee (but I guess elected not to pull him over). It sounds like an F1 car.

Dumb question: How do the housings that go around the top hold down's come off?

FloydSummerOf68

Lol, I was somewhat worried about him being behind me, but I figured he wouldn't give me any trouble knowing I just came from a car meet.

The top hold-down just pop up. They're each held in with three clips that pop out with a decent amount of force. I used a long screwdriver to pry them off.

FloydSummerOf68

It took 3 trips up and down the roofing aisle at Lowe's before I spotted it. It wont' be in the heating/ductwork area.

Home Depot doesn't carry it and most people that work at Lowe's don't know what it is.

This store should be close to you and has it in stock: Peel and Seal

traxz4000

FloydSummer,

I've also installed Dynamat Extreme in my entire interior. It helps, but I would like to know can I apply this on top of the Dynamat for more insulation (I have the Loudmouths and they can still drone a bit)? Also, how does this work in terms of heat insulation? Dynamat is good for dampening but not heat insulation. I was considering the Madvette insulation on top of the my Dynamat. But this option would be VERY cost effective.

Russell ZR1

Hey Guys,

just be carefull with Peel and Seal, know what you are getting into before you apply, this is nothing new, this topic been going around for years on using inexpensive asphalt base mass loaders in autos, such as Peel and Seal and Fat Mat, some have good results while others have had issues.

Here is one from another Forum i belong to, Just giving you an FYI is all. be informed before you do...

From Other Forum:

This really has nothing to do with surface preparation or application technique - except that heating asphalt to improve immediate adhesive strength will accelerate the process that can lead to melting. Rubber compounds are added to the asphalt in these products to improve heat tolerance. Heat causes the rubber to deteriorate more quickly than it would otherwise. This deterioration occurs over time no matter what you do, but heating makes this happen faster. Two processes occur simultaneously:

Rubber breaks down, heat tolerance decreases.
VOC's outgas, the stuff dries out.

The only possible outcomes are that the asphalt will melt, or it will turn into completely inert, hard crud.

This used to be the debate: durability vs cost. That's really moot at this point. Asphalt is such a poor vibration damper that it takes 6-10 times as much to even approach the performance of a medium grade purpose built vibration damper. Butyl flashing tape is not much more effective although it is less likely to fail. A constrained layer vibration damper requires an adhesive designed for the job ("butyl" covers a wide range of formulations) and it needs a constraining layer that is strong enough to resist deformation of the adhesive layer.

The danger of endorsing this product because it hasn't failed for you is that it leads others to think that the issue is durability and that if they follow a special procedure they can avoid the pitfalls. That would be the wrong conclusion to draw. To me it's like arguing over whether or not drinking your own urine will make you sick. Maybe it will, maybe it won't, but why would you want to do it in the first place?

Boomer111

Yikes, thanks for the warning.

LionGS

I agree with posters who said to be careful. I am a contractor and use this stuff a lot for roofing. It is nasty material and sticks like a b%$^h. It gets VERY SOFT in heat. That silver layer is there to reflect the suns rays, keeping your house cooler and the material cooler. In the hatch of the vette there is not only the interior heat of a parked car, but the heat of the exhaust under the hatch floor. The material should stay in place, but it will get soft and when you place items back there they will try and squish it around, it may seep out the seams between each piece. The oder would be another concern for me. Just my $.02.

FloydSummerOf68

I'll go with the 100s of people who have never had a problem versus the 1 or 2 who have.

There's also still not even a hint of odor in mine.

No matter what you ever do to your car you'll always have those who found issue with what you're doing.

People will argue over replacing the paper filters and the pitfalls of oil-based filters They also always tend to make the most outrageous comparisons possible. Is this REALLY like endorsing drinking your own urine? Give me a break

Anyway, if anything's going to go bad, it'll go bad in Houston in our 110 degree summers, so I'll post up. I gain nothing by keeping possible pitfalls to myself. I'll only report on what I actually experience. I know the topic is nothing knew, which is why I was able to do so much research on it before picking it up

cmonkey713

I agree with Nick on this.