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Clutch Adjustment

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Old 06-18-2011, 06:53 PM
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Dons C6
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Default Clutch Adjustment

Just got a 2011 GS 6 speed manual, when changing gears the clutch
dosen't engage until 1/2 way through the clutch pedal travel. Is there
anyway to adjust it so it engages about 2" from the floor?
Old 06-18-2011, 07:02 PM
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wolfdogs
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http://www.torcavettes.com/tech/ClutchHydraulics.htm

hmmm.

Well, your car is new, so dirty fluid should no be the issue.

Its hydraulic, there is no simple adjustment to my knowledge. Not ever having a problem with mine I can't further comment.
Old 06-18-2011, 07:04 PM
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RicK T
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No.

You might be interested in a Tick Performance adjustable master cylinder. Looks like it pretty much solves the problem. Just a suggestion. I understand you shouldn't have to resort to something like this on a new car but.....

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-t...r-cyl-kit.html
Old 06-18-2011, 07:18 PM
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eboggs_jkvl
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2011? Bull crap. Take it to the dealer and have them fix it.
Old 06-18-2011, 07:21 PM
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Ketchum
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Really no manual adjustment.
Old 06-19-2011, 01:20 AM
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vetteright
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You have a new car that came with a warranty; I would use it.
Old 06-19-2011, 06:00 AM
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Ketchum
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My point was there is nothing to warranty. The 'dreaded' no problem found will be the result.
Old 06-19-2011, 10:27 AM
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Road Rage
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hydraulic clutches don't get adjusted. But pedal height usually can be. Although I haven't looked under the dash at a manual to see for myself.
Old 06-19-2011, 10:43 AM
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There's no way the dealer will be receptive to his problem. He'll get: "that's just how they are, they're all like that" and "you have to get used to it".

I brought my car to the dealer twice due to an overheating issue and both times they said they couldn't identify the problem and that there was nothing wrong with it. I ended up fixing it myself, it was a coolant temperature sensor. It cost me $6.00 and fifteen minutes worth of work, and amazingly it's fixed.

I agree with Rick T. While it's not encouraging to have to buy something for a brand new car, the Tick master cylinder will solve the problem and provide an increased level of performance that you would likely have wanted in the future anyway. Just do it.
Old 06-19-2011, 11:10 AM
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Ketchum
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Certainly not a apples to apples comparison. Clutch pedal free play,height and release is normal not ever fooled with on hydraulic clutch systems. Had that same question ask to me many times over the years. If there wasn't a sure nuff issue with it then 'no problem found' I use to tell folks it was like a new pair of shoes. In a few days it won't be second thought where it releases.
Old 06-19-2011, 12:24 PM
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cclive
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2" from the floor is not the way our C6 clutch works and there is no adjustment for it.
Old 06-19-2011, 12:33 PM
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b4i4getit
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Originally Posted by Dons C6
Just got a 2011 GS 6 speed manual, when changing gears the clutch
dosen't engage until 1/2 way through the clutch pedal travel. Is there
anyway to adjust it so it engages about 2" from the floor?
I am not sure you are describing the issue properly. Can we also assume that you have to let the pedal up half way up to release the clutch instead of near the bottom ?
Old 06-19-2011, 01:04 PM
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Ketchum
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Thats the way I read it. He would like for it to release closer to the floor. On adjustable clutch hyd.slave cyliners the proper adjustment is the amount of free travel at the TOP. Not from the bottom or by the release point.

Last edited by Ketchum; 06-19-2011 at 01:06 PM.
Old 06-19-2011, 09:38 PM
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BEZ06
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I'm no clutch expert, so if anybody sees that something I'm putting out is incorrect, feel free to post up the way it really works!!

To my knowledge, with the stock clutch and its hydraulic system, there is no way to adjust the point of pedal travel where the clutch engages/disengages.

Except, MAYBE!! See the end of the post about getting your SAC adjusting ring reset - but I don't know whether that will do anything to adjust the pedal position where the clutch engages/disengages or not.

Our clutches (in the LS2/3/7 clutches) have 2 "self adjusting" features, and the SAC adjusting ring can be reset manually.

The LS9 clutch in the ZR1 has a twin disk design that doesn't incorporate an SAC feature, but the hydraulic linkage will self adjust as discussed in #1 below.


1. The Linkage (or hydraulic system that operates the clutch actuator): As far as the "self adjusting" feature of the hydraulic clutch "LINKAGE" system on the LS2/3/7/9, here's what my 2006 and 2010 Shop Manuals says:

:
....As the clutch disc wears, the diaphragm spring fingers move forward forcing the release bearing, actuator assembly, and pushrod to move. This movement forces the actuator cylinder piston to move forward in its bore, consuming hydraulic fluid from the master cylinder reservoir, thereby providing the SELF-ADJUSTING feature of the hydraulic clutch linkage system.
In the above discussion, the clutch hydraulic system is like a brake system - you could use that exact same wording in the quote above to describe how, as the pads wear, the pistons in the calipers move in the bore, consuming hydraulic fluid from the master cylinder. So, you could call the brake system "self adjusting" in the same manner as the clutch system described above.


2. The SAC, or Self Adjusting Clutch in the LS2/3/7:

An SAC is talking about a whole different concept from just the self adjusting feature of the hydraulic actuator and throwout bearing.

The self adjusting feature of an SAC refers to a clutch that has a "ramped, wedged, or stepped adjusting ring".

Here's a picture of a Z06 clutch posted in another thread by forum member Eric D. The area with the red circle around it is a tension spring (you can see that there are actually 3 of them) for the "stepped adjusting ring" that is present in the LS1/2/3/7 clutches:



Below is a link that describes the Shop Manual procedure for "manually" setting the adjusting ring prior to installing the clutch (or alternatively a method for doing it with the clutch installed on the vehicle). In that procedure the tension springs are released so the adjusting ring can be pre-set so it's ready to self adjust for wear of the clutch disc over time.

Normally, as the clutch disc wears and becomes thinner, the clutch pedal will come up higher and higher before the clutch engages. The SAC will keep the point where the clutch engages when you let up on the pedal to be the same over the life of the clutch:

http://paceperformance.com/files/pdf/zo6clutchadj.pdf

My 2006 and 2010 Service Manuals have that exact same procedure using a hydraulic press, but they do not have the "on car" procedure. I assume that document is copied from a C5 manual.

I believe that the C6 does not have a flywheel inspection cover mentioned in the document, so that might preclude doing the procedure with the clutch installed.

However, I know you can access the bleed valve on the clutch actuator by removing the exhaust and the tunnel plate in order to bleed the clutch hydraulic system, so maybe you can reach the 2 tension springs and rotate the adjusting ring on a C6 by accessing that area in the same manner. Butt.....I suspect you'll have to remove the clutch.

In an SAC, there's a load sensor (sensor diaphragm spring) that detects an increase in load required to release the clutch with wear as the clutch disc plate gets thinner with use. It allows the adjusting ring to rotate. Some adjusting rings have a ramped or wedged shape, and our Corvette clutches have a stepped design that ratchets with wear of the clutch disc plate to keep pedal effort and the pedal position when the clutch engages pretty constant throughout the life of the clutch.



So....the LS2/3/7 clutches have an SAC feature. The only thing that might possibly move the amount of pedal movement where the clutch engages/releases is maybe to do the manual adjusting ring reset procedure - but I'm not sure if that does anything or not. Additionally, if you have to remove the clutch to do it, I think I'd just recommend to live with what you've got!!!

Good luck!!!

Bob

Last edited by BEZ06; 06-19-2011 at 09:59 PM.

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