C6 Corvette General Discussion General C6 Corvette Discussion not covered in Tech
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

Replace Clutch Fluid - Modified Ranger Method

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 06-07-2012, 02:41 PM
  #41  
Grant Elis
Racer
 
Grant Elis's Avatar
 
Member Since: Aug 2011
Location: Kremmling Colorado
Posts: 308
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Cybernetic Medic
Considering that the black material is dust from clutch wear and has worked its way up from the slave cylinder, what we see in the reservoir is just the tip of the iceberg. The real nasty stuff is between the slave and master cylinders. Unfortunately, it's not easy to flush that fluid without buying and extender for the bleeder valve.

... And the extenders have been known to leak.
The black dust is NOT from your clutch discs!!
Old 06-15-2012, 07:54 AM
  #42  
ecestu
Heel & Toe
 
ecestu's Avatar
 
Member Since: Mar 2011
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Would it be possible to just suck out as much off the bad fluid as possible, and then add good fluid? Or would this method increase the risk of adding air into the system?
Old 06-15-2012, 10:17 AM
  #43  
v1 rot8
Melting Slicks
Support Corvetteforum!
 
v1 rot8's Avatar
 
Member Since: Dec 2009
Location: Louisville, KY
Posts: 2,439
Received 58 Likes on 48 Posts

Default

thanks for the info
Old 06-15-2012, 10:51 AM
  #44  
Prime Target
Drifting
 
Prime Target's Avatar
 
Member Since: Nov 2009
Location: Murrells Inlet, SC (formally New Windsor, NY)
Posts: 1,431
Received 279 Likes on 171 Posts

Default

I've used the "Ranger" method for the past few years with great success. I'm going to try this updated method on my next change and see how much chit comes out. Kudos to the OP on his innovative thinking. This should be a sticky, attached to Ranger's.
Old 06-15-2012, 10:55 AM
  #45  
Cybernetic Medic
Drifting
 
Cybernetic Medic's Avatar
 
Member Since: Jan 2010
Location: Schererville Indiana
Posts: 1,305
Likes: 0
Received 5 Likes on 5 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by Grant Elis
The black dust is NOT from your clutch discs!!
Well maybe not 100% since some of it is from the seals but MOST of it is clutch material.

Here is a good read...

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-t...ur-clutch.html
Old 06-15-2012, 11:22 AM
  #46  
BadToo
Racer
 
BadToo's Avatar
 
Member Since: Feb 2005
Location: Pembroke Pines FL
Posts: 356
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by tjl5709


Here is my latest design that seems to work best for me. I replaced the needles with some tubing as it allows for better flow.

These are 60CC Syringes.

The one on the left is used to remove (suck out) bad material from the clutch reservoir. I stuck a small piece of small engine gas line into it to extend the end.

The one on the right is used to inject new fluid. I found access to some tubing that has connections that screw directly into the syringe. The short piece I use to extract good fluid from the Dot 4 Brake fluid container. Once I fill the syringe with new fluid, I change tubes to the black tube. I invert the syringe and pump material to remove air. I insert the long black tube down into the reservoir feed tube at the bottom of the clutch reservoir (small hole at the bottom). Once I insert it all the way in, I inject the good material in, it then pushes the bad fluid up into the reservoir, thus cleaning out the fluid line. I then remove the material from the reservoir, and refill with good fluid. If you can't find the tubing that screws into the syringe (medical supply), then you can try the small engine gas line.

Again, the intent is to remove as much as possible all of the clutch fluid. This basically eliminates the pumping one needs to do with Rangers original method, and for me, does a better job of changing out the fluid. The only way to better change the fluid is to have the system bled.

Steps:

1) Use syringe to suck out fluid from reservoir (just like the ranger method)
2) Fill second syringe with new fluid.
3) Install long black tube on syringe that is filled with new fluid.
4) Invert syringe and squeeze some fluid out to purge out air from the black tubing (just like the nurse before she/he jabs ya).
5) Insert long black tube down the hole located in the bottom of the reservoir
6) Inject new fluid into clutch fluid feedline. Old fluid gets pumped up into reservior.
7) Pull out the syringe and black tube.
8) Use the removal syringe to suck the bad fluid from reservoir that used to be down in the feedline.
9) Fill reservoir with fresh fluid to fill mark.
10) Clean-up
Where did you get the tubing with the connections? I purchased the tubing from Amazon and the 60CC syringe but they don't mate well at all. The syringe opening is way too large for the tubing.
Old 06-15-2012, 12:46 PM
  #47  
Wayne O
CF Senior Member
Support Corvetteforum!
 
Wayne O's Avatar
 
Member Since: Feb 2006
Location: Tucson Arizona
Posts: 23,313
Likes: 0
Received 19 Likes on 18 Posts
Default

I'm no expert but it seems to me, however beneficial your method may be it might not be a replacement for the 'Ranger Method' and pumping the clutch pedal is still beneficial. Pressing the clutch pedal forces a pushrod/plunger down the bore of the master cylinder forcing a seal to close (to the reservoir) and forcing fluid through the line to the actuator cylinder pushing a piston in the actuator cylinder out forcing the release bearing to disengage the pressure plate. As the clutch pedal is released the plunger moves back, fluid returns to the master cylinder and finally opens the port to the reservoir, etc.

Granted, it may take multiple 'purge/pump/fill' cycles but it seems to me pumping the pedal insures a more thorough circulation of fluid throughout the entire system, seals are opened and closed and the cleansing of the fluid might be more complete. I like what you did but personally, I would not let it be a total substitute for the Ranger pump-pedal procedure. Thanks for sharing for modified Ranger method!

Originally Posted by Cybernetic Medic
Considering that the black material is dust from clutch wear and has worked its way up from the slave cylinder, what we see in the reservoir is just the tip of the iceberg. The real nasty stuff is between the slave and master cylinders. Unfortunately, it's not easy to flush that fluid without buying and extender for the bleeder valve.

... And the extenders have been known to leak.
I never understood why GM didn't design and make the bleed valve a little easier to get to. Having to remove the catalytic converter and the tunnel close-out plate makes what should be a simple procedure much more complicated. I know a couple Corvette racers who 'extended' the bleed valve for easier access. To the best of my knowledge it works well....no leaks.
Old 08-05-2012, 09:08 PM
  #48  
v1 rot8
Melting Slicks
Support Corvetteforum!
 
v1 rot8's Avatar
 
Member Since: Dec 2009
Location: Louisville, KY
Posts: 2,439
Received 58 Likes on 48 Posts

Default

I used this method today to change the clutch fluid in my 2011 GS, 5300 miles. Fluid was very dirty, even had stuff floating in it. Never raced or anything like that. Everything went as planned, no problems at all. Very easy to do. I did it four times. Did not get any cleaner after the third time. I think it took maybe 30 minutes from start to clean up. Thanks for the info tjl5709.
Old 08-05-2012, 09:19 PM
  #49  
su8pack1
Team Owner

 
su8pack1's Avatar
 
Member Since: Feb 2006
Location: Eastern PA
Posts: 41,340
Likes: 0
Received 49 Likes on 27 Posts
2021 C6 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified

Default

Old 08-06-2012, 03:17 PM
  #50  
Al Gumby
Racer
 
Al Gumby's Avatar
 
Member Since: Jun 2012
Location: Hillsboro Oregon
Posts: 440
Likes: 0
Received 6 Likes on 6 Posts
Default

We all owe a big thanks to tjl5709 for taking the Ranger Method to the next level.
Old 08-06-2012, 04:51 PM
  #51  
tjl5709
Pro
Thread Starter
 
tjl5709's Avatar
 
Member Since: Jul 2003
Location: Ann Arbor MI
Posts: 626
Likes: 0
Received 19 Likes on 9 Posts

Default

I'm glad to help contribute. I've gotten allot of info from this forum, and it's always good to give back.

I went back and read all the replies, and the bottom line for me was since the clutch system is dead headed, the original ranger method can do only so much. I am not knocking that method. When I started having problems shifting, I found his posts. It corrected my issues, but as I did it, I figured there had to be a way to make it more efficient.

Short of doing a real purge by opening the slave drain, this will get almost all the junk out of the system.

As I described, you fill the syringe with dot4 using a short length tube, then you install the long tube. Invert the syringe (just like a doctor/nurse) and purge the tube to get the air out. Then you insert the tube into the reservoir hole (remove fluid from reservoir first) and as your inserting down the tube, apply alittle pressure to start injecting the new fluid. Once you have it all the way down, inject the full syringe. It drives all the contaminated fluid down by the slave up the feed tube and back into the reservoir. Suck that stuff out as well.

PM me with comments or concerns. Always willing to help.
The following 2 users liked this post by tjl5709:
Ajaste (11-22-2017), candipogo (10-27-2019)
Old 08-06-2012, 05:09 PM
  #52  
QUAKEJAKE
Le Mans Master
 
QUAKEJAKE's Avatar
 
Member Since: Dec 2007
Location: Milford NH
Posts: 5,740
Received 80 Likes on 54 Posts

Default

Old 08-06-2012, 05:22 PM
  #53  
barduch
Drifting
 
barduch's Avatar
 
Member Since: Jun 2010
Location: Litchfield Minnesota
Posts: 1,252
Likes: 0
Received 6 Likes on 5 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by The Brad
We all owe a big thanks to tjl5709 for taking the Ranger Method to the next level.
Big Dittoes!
Old 08-06-2012, 06:11 PM
  #54  
Jimmy C-6
Pro
 
Jimmy C-6's Avatar
 
Member Since: Jun 2011
Location: Beverly Hills Michigan
Posts: 681
Received 14 Likes on 7 Posts
St. Jude Donor '12-'13

Default

Old 08-06-2012, 06:24 PM
  #55  
R&L's C6
Race Director
Support Corvetteforum!
 
R&L's C6's Avatar
 
Member Since: Dec 2010
Posts: 17,887
Received 1,247 Likes on 705 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by barduch
Big Dittoes!


And some forum members (barduch) were nice enough to make other forum members (myself) the syringe with a tube attached so I could do mine.
The following users liked this post:
McCall38 (05-25-2016)
Old 08-06-2012, 07:23 PM
  #56  
Bedouin
Drifting
 
Bedouin's Avatar
 
Member Since: Feb 2012
Location: San Luis Obispo, California
Posts: 1,261
Received 54 Likes on 31 Posts

Default

I copied your method too & it worked great. Picked up a big horse syringe & 3' of super thin tubing from Farm Supply..pushed the tubing & new fuild down into the bottom of the line & ejected it out...worked great & many thanks again!

Originally Posted by tjl5709
I'm glad to help contribute. I've gotten allot of info from this forum, and it's always good to give back.

I went back and read all the replies, and the bottom line for me was since the clutch system is dead headed, the original ranger method can do only so much. I am not knocking that method. When I started having problems shifting, I found his posts. It corrected my issues, but as I did it, I figured there had to be a way to make it more efficient.

Short of doing a real purge by opening the slave drain, this will get almost all the junk out of the system.

As I described, you fill the syringe with dot4 using a short length tube, then you install the long tube. Invert the syringe (just like a doctor/nurse) and purge the tube to get the air out. Then you insert the tube into the reservoir hole (remove fluid from reservoir first) and as your inserting down the tube, apply alittle pressure to start injecting the new fluid. Once you have it all the way down, inject the full syringe. It drives all the contaminated fluid down by the slave up the feed tube and back into the reservoir. Suck that stuff out as well.

PM me with comments or concerns. Always willing to help.
Old 08-07-2012, 11:58 AM
  #57  
tjl5709
Pro
Thread Starter
 
tjl5709's Avatar
 
Member Since: Jul 2003
Location: Ann Arbor MI
Posts: 626
Likes: 0
Received 19 Likes on 9 Posts

Default

[QUOTE=Wayne O;1581079200]I'm no expert but it seems to me, however beneficial your method may be it might not be a replacement for the 'Ranger Method' and pumping the clutch pedal is still beneficial. Pressing the clutch pedal forces a pushrod/plunger down the bore of the master cylinder forcing a seal to close (to the reservoir) and forcing fluid through the line to the actuator cylinder pushing a piston in the actuator cylinder out forcing the release bearing to disengage the pressure plate. As the clutch pedal is released the plunger moves back, fluid returns to the master cylinder and finally opens the port to the reservoir, etc.

Granted, it may take multiple 'purge/pump/fill' cycles but it seems to me pumping the pedal insures a more thorough circulation of fluid throughout the entire system, seals are opened and closed and the cleansing of the fluid might be more complete. I like what you did but personally, I would not let it be a total substitute for the Ranger pump-pedal procedure. Thanks for sharing for modified Ranger method! [Quote]


As the system is dead headed, there is no cycling of fluid from the reservoir to the cylinders. In essence, the fluid just travels back and forth in the tube. You get some mixing of good and bad in the feed tube, but no matter how much pumping you do, bad fluid remains down by the slave.

When I first did this procedure after having done the original method previously, I could not believe the amount of "bad" fluid left down in the feed tube by the slave that I pushed up and out. By injecting fluid with this method, you are creating a simple closed loop.

I now include pumping the pedal when swapping out fluid as well. Inject, pump, inject.

I know my system is cleaner with this modification over the original, and and because of this, it does not need to be done as often.

Get notified of new replies

To Replace Clutch Fluid - Modified Ranger Method

Old 08-07-2012, 01:00 PM
  #58  
Bedouin
Drifting
 
Bedouin's Avatar
 
Member Since: Feb 2012
Location: San Luis Obispo, California
Posts: 1,261
Received 54 Likes on 31 Posts

Default

Question; Instead of cycling the clutch 30 times in the garage, prior to doing the ranger method, what about simply driving & using the clutch (probably 50+ clutch/shifts during a 30 minute local drive) prior to cycling out the clutch fluid via ranger method? Viable or no?

[QUOTE=tjl5709;1581508807][QUOTE=Wayne O;1581079200]I'm no expert but it seems to me, however beneficial your method may be it might not be a replacement for the 'Ranger Method' and pumping the clutch pedal is still beneficial. Pressing the clutch pedal forces a pushrod/plunger down the bore of the master cylinder forcing a seal to close (to the reservoir) and forcing fluid through the line to the actuator cylinder pushing a piston in the actuator cylinder out forcing the release bearing to disengage the pressure plate. As the clutch pedal is released the plunger moves back, fluid returns to the master cylinder and finally opens the port to the reservoir, etc.

Granted, it may take multiple 'purge/pump/fill' cycles but it seems to me pumping the pedal insures a more thorough circulation of fluid throughout the entire system, seals are opened and closed and the cleansing of the fluid might be more complete. I like what you did but personally, I would not let it be a total substitute for the Ranger pump-pedal procedure. Thanks for sharing for modified Ranger method!


As the system is dead headed, there is no cycling of fluid from the reservoir to the cylinders. In essence, the fluid just travels back and forth in the tube. You get some mixing of good and bad in the feed tube, but no matter how much pumping you do, bad fluid remains down by the slave.

When I first did this procedure after having done the original method previously, I could not believe the amount of "bad" fluid left down in the feed tube by the slave that I pushed up and out. By injecting fluid with this method, you are creating a simple closed loop.

I now include pumping the pedal when swapping out fluid as well. Inject, pump, inject.

I know my system is cleaner with this modification over the original, and and because of this, it does not need to be done as often.
Old 08-07-2012, 06:05 PM
  #59  
Al Gumby
Racer
 
Al Gumby's Avatar
 
Member Since: Jun 2012
Location: Hillsboro Oregon
Posts: 440
Likes: 0
Received 6 Likes on 6 Posts
Default

[QUOTE=ADVBedouin;1581509374]Question; Instead of cycling the clutch 30 times in the garage, prior to doing the ranger method, what about simply driving & using the clutch (probably 50+ clutch/shifts during a 30 minute local drive) prior to cycling out the clutch fluid via ranger method? Viable or no?QUOTE]

I'd say yes, absolutely viable. Now that you have fresh fluid (I read you performed the Modified Ranger Method), normal driving with periodic fluid changes automatically becomes a strung out Ranger Method. After all, what is the Ranger Method other than frantic clutch pumping and fluid R&R? If you're not at the drag races with clutch trouble there's no reason to be in a hurry...or if you check your reservoir for the first time and find black, chunky coffee in there (like I did), then it's time to step up. And the Modified Ranger Method is the best way next to a full-on system bleed.
Old 08-07-2012, 08:08 PM
  #60  
ittlfly
Safety Car
 
ittlfly's Avatar
 
Member Since: Feb 2002
Location: Sun City West Az
Posts: 4,212
Received 9 Likes on 9 Posts

Default

Just a stupid question...what do you guys use to ''marry'' the syringe to the black plastic line? The OD of the syringe is larger than the ID of the plastic tube??? I can't locate the plastic connector that TJ used to connect the two (as pictured).
thanks


Quick Reply: Replace Clutch Fluid - Modified Ranger Method



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 09:41 PM.