biker1059

You can get the syringe at Walmart for under $3 and you don't need any of the tubing. The Prestone DOT 4 is about $3 at Walmart also. There's $6-7 vs $31

Z0HS1CK

I just did this just 30 minutes ago.

My question is, after you do the flush and fill, then pump the pedal, are you guys going for a quick drive before repeating it? Or just keep doing it until the fluid in the reservoir stays clear?

Because my fluid was dark brown. Did the flush and fill, pumped the pedal about 30 times. Then checked and it was light brown. Should i have just kept going??

And are you supposed to pump the pedal with the cap open or closed?

whit1

Cap,closed pumping pedal..
First time I did mine I kept going until it was clear. Then every 2-4 weeks I would just suction out the reservoir and replace. That ps me. I'm **** and keep it clean. Takes 5 minutes so no big deal

jwf

As whit1 said, be sure to have the cap closed before pumping or else you might have a mess on your hands.

Also as whit1 said, I did mine several times until the fluid was nearly clear and then after that you can check it occasionally and do it again as necessary to keep the fluid clean. I do mine once or twice a year and it seems to work fine.

In the process, be sure you do not get any of the fluid on your paint!

juanvaldez

You can put the cap on loosely or put a shop rag over the top to keep brake fluid from squirting. The syringes you get at Walmart et al, designed for cooking will be destroyed by brake fluid. I got a big irrigation syringe I got from a feed store for vetinary ? use. I've been using the Valvoline DOT 4 that comes in quarts. My fluid was dirtiest the first time when it had less than 2,000 miles. Now all I notice is a slight color change. First time there was actually "stuff" floating around.

PaulEddie

wolfdogs, this is the first post I have seen from you in a very long time, does that mean you are still with us and did not sell your black beauty?

v1 rot8

I just looked at two GM parts warehouses on line. Both say the GM Dot4 super brake/clutch fluid is no longer available.

v1 rot8

I use the modified Ranger method with a syringe and tubing. One syringe to suck out the dirty fluid, another with clear tubing to pump it back in with. I push the tubing all the way down and push the fluid in. That brings up the dirty fluid, suck it out and repeat. I place the tubing in the reservoir and push fluid out before inserting in the hole and keep pushing fluid to keep from getting air bubbles. Been working great since new. No problems. Real dirty first few times until maybe 8,000 miles, stays almost clean now. Do it about once or twice a year, 4,500 miles/year.

jaki30

Has anyone tried to use the 1/8" tubing to suck out the fluid from the line? Rather than push fluid into the line that we know has junk in it, could the 1/8" tubing be used to suck the stuff out? Since clean fluid would be in the reservoir, the tubing doesn't block the clutch hose and should allow the line to refill as you draw the old junk out through the 1/8" tubing.

csvette8

I noticed the referenced tubing is currently unavailable on amazon. Has anyone found another source for it?

EvanZR1

I wouldn't do that. Sucking fluid out from bottom of line could cause an air pocket. Much safer to push clean fluid through tubing to bottom of line, thus pushing dirty fluid up into reservoir. Modified method using tubing to push clean fluid in takes all of maybe 5 minutes.

FeArZ

Same. Looks like they may not carry it anymore. I'm going check my local tractor supply and hardware stores.

csvette8

I just got a 60cc syringe at my local medical supply store and just doing the normal ranger method. I already notice a big difference so I’m glad I didn’t wait any longer. I swapped fluid two times and it’s a lighter brown already. Mine wasn’t as dirty as some I seen on YouTube.

GMJim

I can't believe what I'm reading! All you guys are doing with this tube method is clearing the line between the master cylinder and reservoir and MAYBE some in the chamber at the master. The much safer Ranger method does this anyway. The tube you are putting in there will not get past the master cylinder and any dirty fluid between the master and the slave will need to be purged by the ranger method or from the bleeder at the slave. When I replace a clutch I always install a Tick Performance remote bleeder so bleeding the clutch system is easier from that point on but on cars like my own 2011 ZR1 that doesn't need a clutch yet I use the Ranger method. Works just fine and is safer than sticking a tube down the line and into the master that could potentially shove debris down and clog a port or worse. This practice isn't necessary!

EvanZR1

Well duh, of course it would be better to use a remote bleeder, but I think most of us using this method are still on the stock clutch. As to the modified vs the original method, nobody's saying you must do it this way, just giving options on a much quicker way of addressing the issue. As to potential potential danger with the tube method, I'd find that highly unlikely. Maybe if you really jammed the tube down and/or forced the new fluid down really hard/fast, but I think most of us are smart enough to do both operations very gently.

GMJim

So you're speaking from experience here? Do you know where that tube is going and what's down there?

I don't usually express my opinion on topics like this because in most cases it's hard to sound constructive and can sound destructive. Stock clutch or not a remote bleeder is what the factory should have put in these cars to begin with. Even if I replace a stock clutch with another stock clutch I install a remote bleeder. The so called modified version of this procedure doesn't do anything more than the non modified Ranger method does. It's a pointless operation that could cause more trouble than you bargain for. I speak from experience as I've been a mechanic for over 40 years and work on these cars frequently. Trying to flush the line and master this way doesn't do anything but waste your time and POSSIBLY cause a problem.

EvanZR1

Yes, speaking from experience. I've been using this method since it was first posted on here, both on my previous C5 and my current C6. Granted, neither see a ton of miles, but I probably flush it this way at least 4 times/year.

In case you missed it before, I absolutely agree with you that a remote bleeder would be the best method. However, I'm still on the original factory clutch and won't be adding a bleeder until I have to replace it. Which leaves me with the original Ranger method, which takes a lot of time and effort, or this modified method. We aren't arguing that the modified version does anything more than the original method, it's just faster. I've tried both, and the clutch fluid stays clean about the same amount of time/mileage for both. If people are uncomfortable with this method they can certainly continue to use the original Ranger method, but those of us who have been successful with this method just wanted to pass it along as an alternative.

gliot1

High 5 to Ranger! I did this on mine this weeked; seemed to work great. My fluid was cloudy, dark and low; now clear and light! It took (5) rounds of (50) pumps and a small amount of fluid. Amazingly easy and seems to have fully flushed the system!

Kudos!

roegs

For those looking for 1/8" tubing - you can purchase it at O'Reillys Auto Parts, Advance Auto Parts, and many other auto parts stores. You are looking for mechanical oil pressure gauge tubing, and can purchase a tubing kit separately from the gauge. Its 1/8" tubing. I agree with others that this method does a better job of flushing out the master cylinder. The OP mentioned that he pushed new fluid into the master cylinder and it expelled old fluid back up into the reservoir. I did it slightly different and instead I sucked old fluid out of the master cylinder. It works on the same principle where it takes fresh fluid from the reservoir as I sucked old fluid from the master cylinder. I did the suction method twice, and then pushed fresh fluid in 3 times the same way that the OP did. Worked great. As others mentioned, this only gets new fluid into the reservoir - master cylinder circuit, not the master - slave circuit. That said, over time the clean fluid will eventually work its way into the master - slave circuit. I believe this is as good as it gets as an alternate method to a full bleed of the slave.