cmonkey713

Oil pan leaking and needs to be fixed. Before going to the dealer with my '07 Z-51 (100K powertrain warranty). I would like to go armed with the TSB that addresses the problem. I have used the search function here and have found much written about the issue but can't seem to find the TSB #. Can anyone help?

Gearhead Jim

I'd like to know, too.

There may not be a TSB, just the standard "find the leak and fix it" routine that any good tech would do.

Others will know for sure...

TSLAVette

Me three!!!

radbluesfan

I took my 13,000 mile 07 in two weeks ago to the dealer after finding a wet oil pan during an oil change. I had put some dye in the oil prior to my appointment and drove about 100 mile before taking it in. I had cleaned the area as good as I could so any new oil would have dye in it.
I explained the scenario to the service tech and I must say I was totally surprised and pleased by the treatment I received. They did not replace the gasket but only re-torched the pan bolts-they said a couple were loose. They drove me home and picked me up again a couple hours later. I am waiting a few hundred miles to see if the problem is fixed. Replacing the pan gasket requires dropping the front clip and realignment and I would rather not do that if it is an option. The work they did that day has a 12 month warranty and they said if I have any problems they will take care of it. No charges so far. Great service and no hassles even though I have never shopped at this dealership.

beav626

I don't have the TSB Handy but when I did mine this past winter... I was a mess. There was a bolt in my (Main Bearing ???) that was leaking too.

it is right above the oil pan and makes it look like the pan is leaking.

if you go to Heitz- They know to check that bolt too

good luck

radbluesfan

I searched a little for a TSB but couldn't find exactly what I was looking for---mostly general info on leaks. Until you know specifically where the leak is you couldn't be sure which, if any, TSB would apply. Like I said, I had zero problems and did not even mention the letters TSB. You might want to test the waters and see if you are treated with the courtesy and respect I was. With the economy and competition in the car business, most successful dealerships are very conscious of customer service and one of the biggest areas of complaints is in the service department. Most people, including me, feel they have to prepare for battle in order to receive warranty work. In this case I had a great experience----so far.

cmonkey713

Danny, What did they do to fix it? Was it covered under warranty? I have seen here that some have pulled the pan and replaced the gaskets and in some cases replaced the pans because of "porous aluminum" that the pan is made from. One of the old posts indicated that to pull the pan the front engine cradle has to be lowered to give enough clearance to remove the pan. That sounds like a major issue.

Bill Dearborn

Don't worry about the TSB. Let them figure it out. Too much information coming in the door with the Customer other than an accurate description of the problem leads to misdiagnosis. It is hard enough to figure out what is leaking down there don't add your confusion into the mix. They know how to find TSBs. In order to fix a really bad oil leak on my Z the dealer replaced the engine oil cooler line, followed by the oil pan gasket and finally the front cover seal before the leak was corrected. My leak would cover the bottom of the car in oil, get oil on the left side tires and cover the rear fascia with wet oil.

Bill

Bill

Mad*Max

You don't need a TSB, just tell them that it's leaking and let them find the leak for you. If the dealer knows what they are doing then they will fix it under the powertrain warranty no hassle, good luck!

beav626

They took care of mine once we figured it was the bolt leaking...

They replaced the oil pan gasket 3 times. Its not an easy job but they know what they are doing at Heitz and put everything back together good.
Before we found the Leaking Bolt The Porous Aluminum was brought to my attention. IF that was the culprit they would have replaced the porous part.

All of this was after my 3/36 warranty but mu 5/100k took care of everything. And Heitz was easy to work with.

Pace08

My 2008 with 8k miles on it developed an oil leak. The dealer said it was the pan gasket and kept the car 24 hours to fix it. I picked it up today. Whether the leak is fixed or not I will know soon. The service sheet indicated that the toe on the car had to be reset and all steering components serviced ie lubricated. I assume that steering components had to be removed to access the pan. I cannot believe the front clip had to be removed as someone on the forum stated. Such action would require several days to do and realign the clip correctly. The pan evidently can be changed with only steering components removed.

radbluesfan

Clip, cradle, crossmember???? Forgive my lack of mechanical knowledge. It seems like quite a bit of work to someone like myself. I have read here that some just live with the oil on the pan if it is not leaking to the floor for fear of the dealership causing further problems.
I would hate to go through a process of wearing out $300 tires because of a misrepair and improper alignment just for an example. I truly hope that the pan bolts were my problem. If not, I will have to think about my decision to have further work done since I have never had one drop hit the floor and the dipstick level is always fine when checked.
I searched in the tech section before I went to the dealer. There are quite a number of threads including the one I copied below. There seem like a lot of opportunities for a problem. Good luck.




Here is the SM Procedure for replacing the gasket. My car is getting this done at the dealer. Hopefully, parts will be in by Thursday and finished by Friday afternoon. Without the special engine brackets it looks like a sky hook is required to hold the engine.

Bill

Oil Pan Replacement (w/o LS9)
Removal Procedure
1. Remove the front suspension crossmember. Refer to Front Suspension Crossmember Replacement.
(Front Suspension Crossmember Replacement (With Z06 or ZR1)
Special Tools
•
J 28467-B Universal Engine Support Fixture
•
J 33432-A Transverse Spring Compressor

•
J 41803 Engine Support Fixture





Removal Procedure
2. Remove the generator from the accessory mounting bracket. Refer to Generator Replacement.
3. Install J 41803 and J 28467-B and support the engine.
4. Raise and support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle.
5. Remove the tire and wheel assemblies. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation.
6. Remove the steering linkage outer tie rod end stud nuts (3). Refer to Steering Linkage Outer Tie Rod Replacement.
7. Remove the stabilizer shaft from the vehicle. Refer to Stabilizer Shaft Replacement.
8. Disconnect the intermediate shaft lower coupling from the steering gear. Refer to Intermediate Steering Shaft Replacement.
9. Remove the bolts from the electronic brake control module (EBCM)/brake pressure modulator valve (BPMV) bracket. Refer to Brake Pressure Modulator Valve Bracket Replacement.
10. Support and reposition the EBCM/BPMV and bracket away from the crossmember.
11. Remove the power steering gear mounting bolts.
12. Remove the power steering fluid cooler from the crossmember.
13. Lift the power steering gear off of the crossmember and support.
14. Remove the engine oil line hose bracket from the crossmember.
15. Using the J 33432-A , remove the transverse spring from the vehicle. Refer to Front Transverse Spring Replacement.
16. Disconnect the lower shock absorber bolts from the lower control arms.
17. Remove the lower control arm bolts from the crossmember.
18. Place a transmission jack under the crossmember.
19. Remove the engine mount lower nuts. Refer to the following procedures:
•
Engine Mount Replacement - Left Side

•
Engine Mount Replacement - Right Side
20. Disconnect the wheel speed sensor wiring harness (1) from the crossmember.
21. Disconnect the electrical harness from the clips on the crossmember.
22. Disconnect the brake pipe from the clips on the crossmember.
23. Remove the crossmember mounting nuts.
24. Lower the crossmember out of the vehicle by removing the transmission jack from under the crossmember. )


Remove the oil filter. Refer to Engine Oil and Oil Filter Replacement.
Remove the left rear transmission cover.
4. Remove the starter motor assembly. Refer to Starter Motor Replacement.
Remove the right transmission cover.

Disconnect the engine oil level sensor electrical connector (2).
If equipped, remove the transmission lines from the rear of the oil pan.
If equipped, remove the transmission lines from the front of the oil pan.
Remove the 2 oil cooler bolts (1) and separate the oil cooler (2) from the oil pan. Discard the oil cooler seal (3).
Remove the rear oil pan bolts (2).
Remove the bolts from the bell housing to the oil pan (3).
Remove the remaining oil pan bolts (4).
Remove the oil pan (5) from the engine block (7).
a. Important: It maybe necessary to rotate the oil pan to remove to gain enough clearance to clear the oil pump pick up tube.

Remove the oil pan gasket (6) from the engine block (7).
Installation Procedure

Important:
•
The alignment of the structural oil pan is critical. The rear bolt hole locations of the oil pan provide mounting points for the transmission housing. To ensure the rigidity of the powertrain and correct transmission alignment, it is important that the rear of the block and the rear of the oil pan are flush, or even. The rear of the oil pan must NEVER protrude beyond the engine block and transmission housing plane.
•
Do not use the oil pan gasket again.

•
It is not necessary to rivet the NEW gasket to the oil pan.





1. Apply a 5 mm (0.2 in) bead of sealant 20 mm (0.8 in) long to the engine block. Refer to Adhesives, Fluids, Lubricants, and Sealers for the correct part number. Apply the sealant directly onto the tabs of the front cover gasket that protrude into the oil pan surface.
2. Apply a 5 mm (0.2 in) bead of sealant 20 mm (0.8 in) long to the engine block. Refer to Adhesives, Fluids, Lubricants, and Sealers for the correct part number. Apply the sealant directly onto the tabs of the rear cover gasket that protrude into the oil pan surface.
3. Position the oil pan gasket (6) on the oil pan (5).
4. Using 2 bolts (4) to hold the oil pan gasket in place, install the oil pan assembly (5, 6) to the engine block (7).
5. Finger tighten the 2 bolts (4) to hold the oil pan assembly (5) in place.
Notice: Refer to Fastener Notice in the Preface section.
6. Install the mounting bolts (2 and 3) for the oil pan assembly.
Tighten
1. Tighten the oil pan mounting bolts (2) M6 to 12 N·m (106 lb in).
2. Tighten the oil pan mounting bolts (4) M8 to 25 N·m (18 lb ft).

7. Using a new oil cooler seal (3), install the oil cooler (2) and 2 bolts (1) to the oil pan.
Tighten
Tighten the oil cooler bolts to 12 N·m (106 lb in).
Reconnect the engine oil level sensor (2) electrical connector.
8. Install the right transmission cover and bolt.
Tighten
Tighten the transmission cover bolt to 12 N·m (106 lb in).
9. If equipped, install the front automatic transmission cooler line retainer and bolt.
Tighten
Tighten the automatic transmission cooler line retainer and bolts to 12 N·m (106 lb in).
10. If equipped, install the rear automatic transmission cooler lines retainer and bolt.
Tighten
Tighten the automatic transmission cooler line retainer and bolts to 12 N·m (106 lb in).
11. Install the starter assembly. Refer to Starter Motor Replacement.
12. Install the left rear transmission cover and bolt.
13. Install the oil filter. Refer to Engine Oil and Oil Filter Replacement.
14. Install the front suspension crossmember. Refer to Front Suspension Crossmember Replacement.

Cross Member Installation Procedure
Notice: The magnesium crossmember requires aluminum spacers at all metal contact points. Failure to reinstall these spacers will result in severe corrosion damage.

Carefully inspect the magnesium crossmember. Replace any damaged or missing spacers prior to installation.
Raise the crossmember to the vehicle.
2.1.
Align the crossmember dowel pins to the frame rails.
2.2.
Align the engine mount studs.





i. Notice: Refer to Fastener Notice in the Preface section.

Install new crossmember mounting nuts.
i. Tighten
Tighten the new crossmember mounting nuts to 110 N·m (81 lb ft).

Install the engine mount lower nuts. Refer to one of the following procedures:
5. •
6. Engine Mount Replacement - Left Side

7. •
8. Engine Mount Replacement - Right Side

Fasten the wheel speed sensor wiring harness retaining clips (1) to the crossmember.
Fasten the brake pipe to the retaining clips on the crossmember.
Connect the electrical harness to the clips on the crossmember.
Connect the brake pipe to the clips on the crossmember.
Install the transverse spring with the J 33432-A connected, to the crossmember. Refer to Front Transverse Spring Replacement.
Install the engine oil line hose bracket to the crossmember.
i. Notice: The magnesium crossmember requires the use of unique lower control arm cam bolts, washers, and aluminum bushing ferrules. Failure to use these specific components during assembly will result in severe corrosion damage.

Install the lower control arm to the crossmember. Refer to Lower Control Arm Replacement.
Install the shock absorbers to the lower control arms.
i. Tighten
Tighten the shock absorber lower mounting nuts to 28 N·m (21 lb ft).
ii. Notice: The power steering gear utilizes aluminum spacers to isolate the gear from the magnesium crossmember. To avoid severe corrosion damage, new spacers are to be installed each time the gear is removed from the crossmember.

Install the power steering gear to the crossmember.
i. Tighten
Tighten the power steering gear mounting bolts to 100 N·m (74 lb ft).

Install the bolts to the BPMV. Refer to Brake Pressure Modulator Valve Bracket Replacement.
Connect the intermediate shaft to the steering gear. Refer to Intermediate Steering Shaft Replacement.
Install the steering linkage outer tie rod ends to the steering knuckles. Refer to Steering Linkage Outer Tie Rod Replacement.
Install the stabilizer shaft to the vehicle. Refer to Stabilizer Shaft Replacement.
Install the tire and wheel assemblies. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation.
Lower the vehicle.
Remove J 41803 and J 28467-B from the engine.
Install the generator. Refer to Generator Replacement.
Connect the negative battery cable. Refer to Battery Negative Cable Disconnection and Connection.
Perform a vehicle front end alignment. Refer to Wheel Alignment Measurement.



--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Last edited by Bill Dearborn; 04-19-2011 at 08:04 PM.

cmonkey713

Thanks for posting the procedure from the service manual. Unbelievable!

This could be a really big deal.

kev1n

re-torquing the pan bolts solved the problem for my issue. IT was very apparent from the pics I took it was coming from the bolts.

Bearsden

[QUOTE=cmonkey713;1578250754
This could be a really big deal.[/QUOTE]

Six hours labor. Maybe faster if they've don it before. I know.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-c...e-oil-pan.html