Vet

C6 battery swap, detailed step by step, how to retain computer memory / readiness codes, window indexing, etc:

I did a search on this subject not too long ago, lots of stuff to read on the forum, but I did not come upon any clear, specific, definitive information (unless I missed it?). I had a lot of questions / concerns about the procedure that went unanswered. As well I read a lot of misinformation and bad advise.

So I got bold and just went ahead and changed my C6 battery today with the intent of saving not only my radio settings, DIC settings and window indexing but also the car's main computer memory / readiness codes. I came up with my own specific battery swap method based on everything I did read plus some things I studied / observed, and just gave it a shot... and it worked fine. So I figured I'd share, with specifics, for those interested.

I did use one of those "memory keeper" cigarette lighter 9-volt battery adapter things that allow you to hook a 9-volt battery into the car's electrical circuit. Except instead of plugging in a mere 9-volt battery, I went to Radio Shack and got a battery holder that holds eight 1.5-volt "AA" batteries in series in order to yield a full 12-volts as well as greater capacity / greater run-time. This battery holder thing has a 9-volt battery type plug on it so it plugged right into the cigarette lighter adapter unit, in place of the 9-volt battery, very quick and easy, no soldering necessary. I did this since some members warned that their 9-volt battery had died during the procedure due to the heavy pull of the C6's electronics, I figured it was a good idea to beef up the external battery capacity beyond just a mere 9-volt.

Another important note... the two cigarette lighter receptacles (accessory power outlets) in the C6 remain alive even when the ignition or accessory mode is off which is a good thing. No need to keep the ignition or accessory mode on. Doing so would only serve to drain the external battery pack that much faster.

The goal here is to swap the main battery as fast as possible (within reason) so that there is little chance of the small external battery pack going dead during the swap. Of course, be sure to use brand new batteries in your external battery pack. If you follow the procedure outlined below, you should be running on the external battery pack for only several minutes, likely less than five minutes. I did not time myself but I'm sure it took less than five minutes from the time I pulled the cables off the old battery to the point I installed the cables onto the new battery. No need to be frantic about it, but at the same time, don't take a beer break while there is no main battery hooked up.

Ok, here's a proven, step by step procedure:

1. Open hood. If you have an underhood lamp, unplug it or remove bulb (I removed my underhood bulb a long time ago and stuck it in the ashtray, it's pretty much useless, if you get stuck at night you'll need a flashlight anyway).

2. Have the new car battery fully ready to install, clean the terminals, coat terminals with dielectric grease, etc

3. Remove the car's battery hold-down bolt / clamp (on my `06 this bolt is a 13mm).

4. Have a small bungee cord handy to hold up the positive cable during the swap procedure so it doesn't get in the way. Also have a cable clamp cleaner (wire brush) handy. And also have a socket wrench with 10mm socket ready for the cable clamps.

5. Enter car with FOB in your pocket. Do NOT turn on the accessory mode or ignition. Make sure everything is off. Plug your external battery pack adapter into one of the car's cigarette lighter receptacles (I used the receptacle located in the center glove box, this is convenient since you can just lay the battery pack in the glove box, cable need not be long). Exit the vehicle with FOB still in pocket, close the door.

6. Remove battery cables from battery in car (first remove the negative, then positive), tie up positive cable with bungee cord and remove battery from car.

7. Clean cable clamps.

8. Install new car battery into car and hook up battery cables (first positive, then negative). Tighten cable clamps properly.

9. Enter car with FOB in pocket, remove external battery pack adapter from cigarette lighter receptacle and take it out of the car, close door.

10. Install battery hold-down clamp and button everything up... installation of new battery is complete.

11. No need to re-index windows or reset DIC settings / radio settings etc since all memory, including all info from the car's main computer / readiness codes, should be saved.

I followed this exact procedure, using my 12-volt (eight AA battery) external battery pack in the cigarette lighter receptacle, and it appears that ALL my settings (radio, DIC), window indexing AND computer readiness codes etc were SAVED. No other undesirable side effects noted. Nothing got hot, no fuses blown, etc.

While this may all seem extremely simple and elementary, there's room for error. For instance, if you use only a 9-volt battery and then keep your ignition turned on or door open etc during the procedure, chances are high that the 9-volt will die before you're done and you may lose all your memory.

Some had reported that their DIC settings and window indexing had remained intact while changing their battery even without using a "memory keeper" external battery. And others reported that they did the same but lost their memory. Not sure why the discrepancy here. But, if it's important to you to keep your memory / settings, be safe and use an external battery pack.

Some may argue that this is all unnecessary since it's not so hard to reprogram your radio settings and DIC settings etc, yes, true, but if you need to go for a state inspection soon after your battery change, your computer's readiness codes need to be ready or the inspection station may turn you away. And it may take days of assorted driving cycles to get your readiness codes ready again after the memory has been wiped. And, yes, I need to go for a state inspection very soon which is why I was concerned about this.

For those who may be unfamiliar, here's a "memory keeper" 9-volt battery / cigarette lighter adapter:

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...152-_-10711125

And here's the Radio Shack eight "AA" battery holder thing I used in place of a 9-volt battery in order to have a full 12-volts and greater overall capacity... costs $2.59:

http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2062242

Hopefully this little report will help dispel any mysteries any may have about this procedure. Maybe it's a bit "overkill", but at least it's been proven to work, 100% successfully, without any negative side effects. My readiness codes as well as all my other settings are intact and I'm happy. The whole battery swap procedure was very quick and easy, especially being that I did not have to reset anything, I was completely done before my coffee even got cool.

Wayne O

I've disconnected the battery a few times and for all practical purposes I only had to re-index the windows. I did, however, lose the retained readiness monitor information (some of which can only be restored through drive cycles). Once, I had to change the battery right before going in for an emissions test and sure enough the car's computer reported it was not ready. I didn't even think about the lost information before I replaced the battery.

Your procedure is good to know....thanks for your efforts!

Rogers 07

Good Idea!!

peter pan

Wow, glad the dealer changed mine, under warranty

C7Joy

Good material for future reference in the FAQ/DIY archives! Thanks for all the time to record the information.

quantum-theory

Can you just keep the battery tender plugged in?

rchbn

The only thing I've lost is window indexing, I've never lost radio settings or DIC settings. So to me this is not needed. Just my $.02

RJRSW

I changed my battery out and the only thing I had to do after installing the new battery was reindex the windows which took about 10 seconds.

SpryGeezer

Thanks for the procedure. Did you R&R the battery using only your hands, battery terminal strap? Was that the original battery? My '07 was built 11/2006 and I've been thinking of changing the battery before it fails but it's showing no sign of failure.

RJRSW

Mine was a 2007 with an October of 2006 delivery and I just changed mine out with the anticipation at 5 years the end was coming soon.

I just used my hands and you will need to tilt the battery with the low end towards the fender side to get it into position in the tray.

Replaced it with an new Delco 6 year Professional and it ran around $84 from my Chevy dealer.

Vette5.5

The dealers sure seem to be getting competitive on their pricing, as recently bought a couple batteries from the major auto parts chains with discount codes, and ended up about the same. I have plenty of 12v sources here, and was going to use a booster pack, but changed the battery without doing anything. Re-indexed the windows, and maybe a few other settings, but nothing really major.

swifty

I saw how easy and quick battery replacement would be so I just left the car running while I changed it. No lost settings - didn't even have to re-index the windows.

When I returned the core for deposit back I told the counter guy what I did and he told me I was extremely lucky I didn't get a surge that would damage "the electronics module" (ECM, PCM, ?). I don't doubt him, I guess I'm just lucky. And I guess I won't do that again, just in case.

Vette5.5

Yea, you're definitely not wanting to do it that way, as could've popped some alternator diodes. Know more than one person doing just that, jump starting another car while leaving his car running. Anytime you're electrically hooking something to you're car, leave the engine off.

Cool Rod

Can I just use my CTEK 3000 which I plug into my cigarette lighter?

Other than that, the 9 volt memory keeper is a great little product that I never heard of! Thanks!

Vette5.5

Dont think that would work, as the 3300's have smart circuitry, that need to see a load, or will likely not put anything out. Probably work with the 7000 model though, as has a power supply mode, you can run 12v stuff off of.

Larry/car

Good info. My battery is over five years old. No signs of trouble yet. I'm going to continue to use it until it shows signs of failure. I have replaced batteries in the past only to discover that the new battery was defective. This happens more than you would think, replacing doesn't necessarily mean impending problem solved.

JERGENSEN LS3

keyplyr

You can do all that... or buy a little tool about the size of a ladies lipstick that plugs into the cig lighter: $12 at Autozone.

I use it when I swap batteries at track. There's no brand name displayed, but I see lots of guys use them. Works great, very easy

etaylor14

I have disconnected the battery several times and only have to re-index the windows.(07 coupe)

VET4LES

I disconnect mine when going on vacation and once when I replaced it. I have only had to re-index the windows. That takes about 15 seconds.