TripleAstyle123

This may be a dumb question but I need to know! I am due for my first oil change. I have the jacking "pucks" (actual purchased set). I am wondering if RAMPS are required or helpful to do an oil change? If so which ones work well? Anyones info on their oil change procedure for jacking etc will be helpful. If you use a lift good for you, not an option for me! Thanks!

Wandering Scot

I've used the Race Ramps with good results.
I initially used them both on the front but now just use them both on the drivers side and crawl under from there.
You can get them here:
http://www.westcoastcorvette.com/m-116-race-ramps.aspx

If you jack the car up instead make sure you use jacking pucks/blocks.

RaleighTL

In order of preferance:
a) 4 or 2 post lift
b) Race ramps
c) 3 pieces of 2x12's beveled & nailed together in stagered sequence
d) Floor jack and jack stands
c) Get you waist line down below 26" and slide under

Gearhead Jim

My hydraulic floor jack is pretty low, but I still need to drive the front wheels onto a pair of 2 x 10's so the jack will fit under the front of the car. Clearance at the rear is no problem.

So I need:
2 x 10's about 3' long, beveled end.
hydraulic floor jack.
blocks (chocks) for wheels.
hockey pucks.
jack stands.

Some people use a long socket extension to unscrew the oil plug, and somehow get the filter off/on; without jacking up the car at all.

Me, I take it to the dealer that charges about $62 for an oil & filter change done by their Corvette tech, and every 6th change is free.

R&L's C6

This is what I use and works great.........

Attachment 47679242

Attachment 47679243

I back the front tires on to these and then use my floor jack to jack up the rear and level off the car. Gives you just enough room to get it done.

zare191

On my '07 LS2, I just use a floor jack under the driver's side jacking puck:
Lift the car
Reach under and remove filter and drain plug
Let it back down for draining
Lift again and reinstall plug and filter.

Had many Corvettes, but none with an easier oil change

CessnaDriver

I've never jacked the car to change oil and filter.
Turn the wheel and you can reach everthing with extensions, low profile drain pan.
Just easier for me. Others it can be more difficult.

R&L's C6

AKA......Being too fat.

orca1946

2 x 8 or 10 wood ramps . Cost about $30.

CO Lightfoot

DIY? I prefer it. That way I make sure it gets syn oil (Mobil 1 for me).

And I make sure it is not over- or under-filled. That is, the Z06 & GS manual have a dry sump that holds ~10 quarts... whereas, my 09 LS3 holds ~6 quarts. Unknowledgable Technicians might not know there's a difference.

For the 1st oil change, you might need a breaker bar (factory gorillas really tighten the drain plug & filter). The correct-size filter wrench is also a big help.

I use homemade ramps like R&L's C6.


I jack-up the right side to get most of the oil drained. I don't think it's essential to jack-up the rear, but I'm not that fussy about getting every last drop.


And unless your jack can fit without damaging the rocker panels, use jacking pucks!

FortMorganAl

That's the way I do it also. Wally World makes a pan that fits nicely even with the jack lowered. Also, if you have zerks in the rear you can grease them while it is draining. If this is your first change be prepared that a gorilla installed the plug and filter at the factory. Lots of people complain how hard they are to remove the first time. Reinstall should be 18 ft/lb for the plug and 22 ft/lb for the filter but 3/4 turn past first contact seems to work for me on the filter.

TRUOMEGA

Advance Auto Parts have Blitz RhinoRamps 8,000 Vehicle Ramps for $32.99 - $10 off code A123 = $22.99 with free store pickup. Hopefully, theres a store near you.

jackhall99

My plan of attack also Jim.

LDB

Depends on how long your arm is, but I can do it without jacking or ramps. I'm 6'2", and if I turn the steering wheel full lock left, and then reach in behind the left front wheel, I can just barely reach the drain plug with my right hand's thumb & index finger to twist it in and out once loosened with an extension wrench. I cannot reach it if wheels are straight ahead. The filter is closer so no problem. I use a galvanized pan I got at the hardware store so don't need jacking for drain pan clearance either. My CTSV is exactly the same. Full wheels left are required, but I can just barely do it all without jacking if wheels are full left.

VET4LES

In addition I use a jack stand. You can't be too careful.

etaylor14

I jack the l/f wheel (using pucks)remove tire,drain oil and remove filter,lower the car and let drain for a while.jack up again install drain plug,replace filter(I fill the filter with oil first)install tire lower jack and fill with 51/2qts. oil.(DON'T FORGET TO USE A JACK STAND)

haljensen

Buy oil & filter on sale.

Drive to Jiffy Lube.

Hand them the oil & filter.

Wait 10 minutes while you watch them drain and add oil.

Pay them aprx. $20.00.

No jacks or ramps, no wrenches, no prep, no cleanup, no disposal and maybe 30 minutes total.

Keep the receipts in case there's a Warranty question.

2nd Gen Enthusiast

Thanks for the link and code, TRUOMEGA!

Just grabbed a set for pickup.

Brad

0Fred@ReverseLogic

I agree.

Jimsan