B y r o n

Well my bars arrived Thursday from the group purchase so I installed them yesterday on my 2011 GS with F55 and 7,500 + miles. I exceeded the normal installation time because I shot video of the install. I've tried uploading it to YouTube but there must be something wrong with their site as I can't do it from Opera or IE, keeps blowing up the browser.

Here are a couple of things I did during my install that wasn't in the PFADT instructions:

After mounting the end links I removed them and measured their length. I used the small points at each end and came up with an overall length for each side. I then subtracted the shorter from the longer and divided the difference by 2. I then added this to the short one and subtracted it from the long one and reset the length to this new equal length. I also tightened the jamb nut before remounting because it was easier.

Some might be wondering why I did this. Well, because there is no way to tell if the bar is centered, equaling the end links will cause the bar to center itself. You may need to loosen the bushing clamps to allow the bar to self-center but it's easy to re-tighten after the end links are mounted again. It's just the way I'm wired.

After everything was done it was time to get it off the blocks and take it for a short test run. Azusa Canyon and Glendora Mountain Road were perfect for this. Being surface streets I didn't really push it hard but I could tell that it was staying flatter through the curves. It's hard for me to believe that for a car that I already felt rode like it was riding on rails could get any better but it was.

Today I took it out for a longer run and went from Wrightwood across Highway 2 (SR-2 Angeles Crest Highway) to La Canada. Basically across the mountain from Hwy 15 to the 210 Fwy. The road was a bit debris scattered with fallen rocks so this slowed the pace some but it was still an enjoyable drive.

There were handling differences between the before and after. I did get the rear end loose in one corner, thought I saw 1.34 on the G meter. Another corner I hit 1.11 G and everything was still solid at both ends. The car felt like it preferred accelerating out of the corners and got a little unsettled when braking through a turn if running too fast. I know it's going to take more time and testing but I like the flatter corning.

One of the things I noticed, when looking at the PFADT sway bar rate comparison chart, was that the factory bars are stiffer in the rear than in the front. The PFADT bars are more in line with the GM T1 bars which are stiffer in front than in the rear. I'm not sure if this is why it feels better powering out of corners now.

Enough for now, I'll update with a link as soon as I can upload to YouTube.





In case anyone is wondering it still has the factory GY F1 Supercar G2's installed.

phileaglesfan

As far as the G meter you can hold the page button down in track mode for 10 seconds and it'll show your highest G reading since you started the car.

I bet they look great on your yellow C6. The color is the main thing I don't like about them.

peter pan

Nice mod and review

B y r o n

Video finally uploaded. Don't know what is up with YouTube but had to download and install Chrome to get it done.



Now I just need to remember this the next time I'm out, thanks!



Thanks!

glenB

The reason the end links are adjustable is to prevent preload of the bar. By fixing the length of the end link, it is possible that one end link is longer or short leading to preloading the bar.

Pfadt Racing

Great video Byron! I'm glad the install went smoothly and the car is handling better then ever.

Similar to the T1 bars, we take out the heavy rear bias that the factory sway bars exhibit and go more for a slight forward bias. This keeps the car more neutral and under control for most drivers on the street, and makes the car feel awesome at turn in.

B y r o n

Thanks for the clarification on the difference between the sway bars. Now I just need more seat time to figure out the best setting for my ride.

Keith N

Nice review and video! I'm looking forward to getting a ride in the GS.

Nd4spd2

Damn, nice tip, I didn't know that. thanks

Nd4spd2

I have the Johnny O;Connell kit on my 2000 FRC, shocks and sways, nice set up.

mtomlin1

I just bought the stage 1 kits

Shocks and sway bars for my 06 z06

Can anyone just advise what the best setting is ? I believe there are three settings.

What does what ? If someone could explain would be very helpful

B y r o n

I'd say start with the middle hole and see how it handles. After you've had some time behind the wheel you can determine whether or not you need it set stiffer or softer.

mikeCsix

Wow, old post. At least you are trying to do your research! There is another thread on the forum where Aaron Pfadt shared some of the design philosophy regarding the JOC setup. His recommendation was to start from the middle setting. You use the other two settings to adjust to your driving style or car setup or local road/track conditions depending how your car is handling the issues at the time...pun intended. The outer holes soften the bar, the inner holes harden the bar. If oversteer, you may want to soften the bar, if understeering you may want to harden the bar. The other option would be to experiment with tire pressure settings along with changes in the bar.

One of the issues I saw with the installation is that of 'binding'. I grease my bar bushings to let the bar move more easily and not bind. The other thing to do is to not preload the bar. You get 4 adjustable links right? You really only need two, just install the OEM link and adjust the adjustable link to fit without preloading the bar.

Personally I would do my oversteer/understeer testing with the nannies on. An oversteer under acceleration will put the car out of shape really fast with our limited slip differentials and if you aren't looking for the situation to develop, the results will not be desirable.