Battery cable removal
#2
Team Owner
Member Since: Sep 2000
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St. Jude Donor '13
IIRC, it's important to only loosen the nuts, not remove them. They are easily lost, an oddball size, and not available from GM as a separate part.
That's all I know.
That's all I know.
#3
Team Owner
Not sure exactly what you're asking but here's a reference with info:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-c...-question.html
And you can find more on bugmanweb dot com under "Battery-Optima" in the yellow pane.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-c...-question.html
And you can find more on bugmanweb dot com under "Battery-Optima" in the yellow pane.
#4
Team Owner
If you remove the nut, you are asking for trouble. No need to do anything but loosen it, then wiggle the connector loose.
#5
Race Director
If I remember correctly, the OEM cable lugs bite into the battery posts when tightened. So after the nuts are loose, you will still have to break the lug loose from the post. Try rotating first. If you can't break it free that way, very carefully pry upward with a screwdriver. A lug puller just for this task is the safest approach if you can't break it free by hand rotation.
#7
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St. Jude Donor '13
BTW, leave your door(s) open, easier to get back in to re-index the windows after battery installed.
#11
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St. Jude Donor '15
"In honor of jpee"
#12
Instructor
I've posted this before but take special care in tightening the cable clamp to the battery, that cast aluminum link breaks very easily and if it does break you have to replace the entire cable, get correct torque numbers on the clamp bolt because it's easily broken
#13
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St. Jude Donor '13
We draped the entire engine compartment to protect against metal chips, used a cutting wheel to slice the factory crimp lengthwise on the connectors, and installed normal parts-store clamps. Loctite on the screws that hold the wiring into the connectors.
Others have reported that losing an inch or two by cutting off the old connectors is not a problem, but i didn't know for sure.
#15
For reinstallation the proper torque value is embossed on the underside of the rubber/plastic battery connector covers. It is in inch/lbs as I remember and unless you have a 1/4-inch drive torque wrench it will be hard to measure. Perhaps you can borrow one from a tool junkie friend.
I am thinking nuts are 10mm, but I could be wrong. Pay attention to the advice about not losing those nuts. They have a conical bottom and are not available separate from the battery cables.
PS. If you leave the doors open you will get a spark, but that should be no big deal. Wear eye protection, a long sleeve shirt and gloves.
I am thinking nuts are 10mm, but I could be wrong. Pay attention to the advice about not losing those nuts. They have a conical bottom and are not available separate from the battery cables.
PS. If you leave the doors open you will get a spark, but that should be no big deal. Wear eye protection, a long sleeve shirt and gloves.
Last edited by 9C1; 01-06-2012 at 03:51 PM. Reason: spelling
#17
Team Owner
Happened to me, + cable. The dealer would have replaced it free but there's a lot of cable running around in there, and you end up with the same crummy design.
We draped the entire engine compartment to protect against metal chips, used a cutting wheel to slice the factory crimp lengthwise on the connectors, and installed normal parts-store clamps. Loctite on the screws that hold the wiring into the connectors.
Others have reported that losing an inch or two by cutting off the old connectors is not a problem, but i didn't know for sure.
We draped the entire engine compartment to protect against metal chips, used a cutting wheel to slice the factory crimp lengthwise on the connectors, and installed normal parts-store clamps. Loctite on the screws that hold the wiring into the connectors.
Others have reported that losing an inch or two by cutting off the old connectors is not a problem, but i didn't know for sure.