SRQStingray

Changed the oil on my 09 Coupe about 1,000 miles ago. We noticed oil on the oil pan. It was just a thin film. We cleaned it off, tighted bolts on oil pan and changed the oil. After the oil change, I began smelling burnt oil at lights. I figure, despite being careful, we got some on exhaust. It didn't go away and now at 1,000 miles later, we put it up on the lift and the oil pan is wet again on the side opposite the filter, same place as before. Filter was tight and no other oil was seen. I have no oil on the garage floor, but the burnt oil smell is persisting.

So, should I have the dealer replace the gasket or wait until it gets worse? I still have powertrain and extended warranty, GMPP. My problem is the dealers here are not known to be terribly competent.

radbluesfan

There are many threads on this. It happened to me last summer during an oil change. I took it to the dealer and they replaced and re-torqued the pan bolts. I checked after 600-700 miles and all was good. I have about 3000 miles since and will have to look again this spring. I do not have a jack or lift so it is not easy to check often for me. There is a bit of work to be done to change the gasket and many people choose to let it go if it is not dripping on the floor. Do a search and you will find 25 or more threads on the subject. Its seems to be very common. I can't believe GM has let this go on for so long.

radbluesfan

Replacing the gasket is a lot easier said than done. I read this when I was going through it. This says oil pan replacement but you get the idea. This is way more than I am comfortable trying!!!!

Oil Pan Replacement (w/o LS9)
Removal Procedure
1. Remove the front suspension crossmember. Refer to Front Suspension Crossmember Replacement.
(Front Suspension Crossmember Replacement (With Z06 or ZR1)
Special Tools
•
J 28467-B Universal Engine Support Fixture
•
J 33432-A Transverse Spring Compressor

•
J 41803 Engine Support Fixture





Removal Procedure
2. Remove the generator from the accessory mounting bracket. Refer to Generator Replacement.
3. Install J 41803 and J 28467-B and support the engine.
4. Raise and support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle.
5. Remove the tire and wheel assemblies. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation.
6. Remove the steering linkage outer tie rod end stud nuts (3). Refer to Steering Linkage Outer Tie Rod Replacement.
7. Remove the stabilizer shaft from the vehicle. Refer to Stabilizer Shaft Replacement.
8. Disconnect the intermediate shaft lower coupling from the steering gear. Refer to Intermediate Steering Shaft Replacement.
9. Remove the bolts from the electronic brake control module (EBCM)/brake pressure modulator valve (BPMV) bracket. Refer to Brake Pressure Modulator Valve Bracket Replacement.
10. Support and reposition the EBCM/BPMV and bracket away from the crossmember.
11. Remove the power steering gear mounting bolts.
12. Remove the power steering fluid cooler from the crossmember.
13. Lift the power steering gear off of the crossmember and support.
14. Remove the engine oil line hose bracket from the crossmember.
15. Using the J 33432-A , remove the transverse spring from the vehicle. Refer to Front Transverse Spring Replacement.
16. Disconnect the lower shock absorber bolts from the lower control arms.
17. Remove the lower control arm bolts from the crossmember.
18. Place a transmission jack under the crossmember.
19. Remove the engine mount lower nuts. Refer to the following procedures:
•
Engine Mount Replacement - Left Side

•
Engine Mount Replacement - Right Side
20. Disconnect the wheel speed sensor wiring harness (1) from the crossmember.
21. Disconnect the electrical harness from the clips on the crossmember.
22. Disconnect the brake pipe from the clips on the crossmember.
23. Remove the crossmember mounting nuts.
24. Lower the crossmember out of the vehicle by removing the transmission jack from under the crossmember. )


Remove the oil filter. Refer to Engine Oil and Oil Filter Replacement.
Remove the left rear transmission cover.
4. Remove the starter motor assembly. Refer to Starter Motor Replacement.
Remove the right transmission cover.

Disconnect the engine oil level sensor electrical connector (2).
If equipped, remove the transmission lines from the rear of the oil pan.
If equipped, remove the transmission lines from the front of the oil pan.
Remove the 2 oil cooler bolts (1) and separate the oil cooler (2) from the oil pan. Discard the oil cooler seal (3).
Remove the rear oil pan bolts (2).
Remove the bolts from the bell housing to the oil pan (3).
Remove the remaining oil pan bolts (4).
Remove the oil pan (5) from the engine block (7).
a. Important: It maybe necessary to rotate the oil pan to remove to gain enough clearance to clear the oil pump pick up tube.

Remove the oil pan gasket (6) from the engine block (7).
Installation Procedure

Important:
•
The alignment of the structural oil pan is critical. The rear bolt hole locations of the oil pan provide mounting points for the transmission housing. To ensure the rigidity of the powertrain and correct transmission alignment, it is important that the rear of the block and the rear of the oil pan are flush, or even. The rear of the oil pan must NEVER protrude beyond the engine block and transmission housing plane.
•
Do not use the oil pan gasket again.

•
It is not necessary to rivet the NEW gasket to the oil pan.





1. Apply a 5 mm (0.2 in) bead of sealant 20 mm (0.8 in) long to the engine block. Refer to Adhesives, Fluids, Lubricants, and Sealers for the correct part number. Apply the sealant directly onto the tabs of the front cover gasket that protrude into the oil pan surface.
2. Apply a 5 mm (0.2 in) bead of sealant 20 mm (0.8 in) long to the engine block. Refer to Adhesives, Fluids, Lubricants, and Sealers for the correct part number. Apply the sealant directly onto the tabs of the rear cover gasket that protrude into the oil pan surface.
3. Position the oil pan gasket (6) on the oil pan (5).
4. Using 2 bolts (4) to hold the oil pan gasket in place, install the oil pan assembly (5, 6) to the engine block (7).
5. Finger tighten the 2 bolts (4) to hold the oil pan assembly (5) in place.
Notice: Refer to Fastener Notice in the Preface section.
6. Install the mounting bolts (2 and 3) for the oil pan assembly.
Tighten
1. Tighten the oil pan mounting bolts (2) M6 to 12 N·m (106 lb in).
2. Tighten the oil pan mounting bolts (4) M8 to 25 N·m (18 lb ft).

7. Using a new oil cooler seal (3), install the oil cooler (2) and 2 bolts (1) to the oil pan.
Tighten
Tighten the oil cooler bolts to 12 N·m (106 lb in).
Reconnect the engine oil level sensor (2) electrical connector.
8. Install the right transmission cover and bolt.
Tighten
Tighten the transmission cover bolt to 12 N·m (106 lb in).
9. If equipped, install the front automatic transmission cooler line retainer and bolt.
Tighten
Tighten the automatic transmission cooler line retainer and bolts to 12 N·m (106 lb in).
10. If equipped, install the rear automatic transmission cooler lines retainer and bolt.
Tighten
Tighten the automatic transmission cooler line retainer and bolts to 12 N·m (106 lb in).
11. Install the starter assembly. Refer to Starter Motor Replacement.
12. Install the left rear transmission cover and bolt.
13. Install the oil filter. Refer to Engine Oil and Oil Filter Replacement.
14. Install the front suspension crossmember. Refer to Front Suspension Crossmember Replacement.

Cross Member Installation Procedure
Notice: The magnesium crossmember requires aluminum spacers at all metal contact points. Failure to reinstall these spacers will result in severe corrosion damage.

Carefully inspect the magnesium crossmember. Replace any damaged or missing spacers prior to installation.
Raise the crossmember to the vehicle.
2.1.
Align the crossmember dowel pins to the frame rails.
2.2.
Align the engine mount studs.





i. Notice: Refer to Fastener Notice in the Preface section.

Install new crossmember mounting nuts.
i. Tighten
Tighten the new crossmember mounting nuts to 110 N·m (81 lb ft).

Install the engine mount lower nuts. Refer to one of the following procedures:
5. •
6. Engine Mount Replacement - Left Side

7. •
8. Engine Mount Replacement - Right Side

Fasten the wheel speed sensor wiring harness retaining clips (1) to the crossmember.
Fasten the brake pipe to the retaining clips on the crossmember.
Connect the electrical harness to the clips on the crossmember.
Connect the brake pipe to the clips on the crossmember.
Install the transverse spring with the J 33432-A connected, to the crossmember. Refer to Front Transverse Spring Replacement.
Install the engine oil line hose bracket to the crossmember.
i. Notice: The magnesium crossmember requires the use of unique lower control arm cam bolts, washers, and aluminum bushing ferrules. Failure to use these specific components during assembly will result in severe corrosion damage.

Install the lower control arm to the crossmember. Refer to Lower Control Arm Replacement.
Install the shock absorbers to the lower control arms.
i. Tighten
Tighten the shock absorber lower mounting nuts to 28 N·m (21 lb ft).
ii. Notice: The power steering gear utilizes aluminum spacers to isolate the gear from the magnesium crossmember. To avoid severe corrosion damage, new spacers are to be installed each time the gear is removed from the crossmember.

Install the power steering gear to the crossmember.
i. Tighten
Tighten the power steering gear mounting bolts to 100 N·m (74 lb ft).

Install the bolts to the BPMV. Refer to Brake Pressure Modulator Valve Bracket Replacement.
Connect the intermediate shaft to the steering gear. Refer to Intermediate Steering Shaft Replacement.
Install the steering linkage outer tie rod ends to the steering knuckles. Refer to Steering Linkage Outer Tie Rod Replacement.
Install the stabilizer shaft to the vehicle. Refer to Stabilizer Shaft Replacement.
Install the tire and wheel assemblies. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation.
Lower the vehicle.
Remove J 41803 and J 28467-B from the engine.
Install the generator. Refer to Generator Replacement.
Connect the negative battery cable. Refer to Battery Negative Cable Disconnection and Connection.
Perform a vehicle front end alignment. Refer to Wheel Alignment Measurement.

Jimmy W1

Ewwww!! I don't even want to hear about this stuff!!

SRQStingray

@Radbluesfan: Sounds like a MAJOR PITA. Even though I have access to a lift, I would probably let the dealer, or better yet, a competent shop handle this one. It could be worse. It could be the rear seal.

Red89gt

Feel your pain. I was just under my 2010 vette and the oil pan also had a film of oil on it. I douched off with brake clean and will be under there in spring for oil change but have feeling it will be wet again. Going to blow if I have to have the dealer fk with it. Inevitably I don't think many are capable of doing it right 100% the first time. I dread anytime anyone other than myself works on my cars. Prime example car was in once for service, oil change, by previous owner and has cracked rocker from lift on one side, this was a dealer oil change.....

Gearhead Jim

Two minor points:

We had a slight leak on our 2009 LS3 pan by 20k miles, pan was damp and a couple of drops visible at the rear. Finally had the dealer retorque the bolts and add dye at about 30k miles. A few weeks and 1 k miles later, there was no sign of leak either to naked eye or black light. Keeping my fingers crossed...

When cleaning the pan, be aware that some cleaners can damage (ruin) the composite leaf spring. I believe aluminum brightners can do it, not sure about brake cleaners.

Red89gt

I don't recall spraying the spring should be okay. Thanks for the retorque tip. Something I can do if it is leaking when I get back under there in a couple of months.

Chevy Cust Svc

I am glad you are planning to work with the dealer towards resolution. Please feel free to let me know how it goes.

Tricia, Chevrolet Customer Service.

Cherokee Nation

Damm!!!! I would just live with it.

Cherokee Nation

Do NOT take it to a dealer.It will never be the same,I've been there,..,

Red89gt

Retorque by me with calibrated torque wrench will be my first line of defense if my pan is leaking.
Second will be an old friend I just remembered that hopefully still works at a Chevy dealership. I dread anyone but him cracking the seal on that engine and taking apart the front end to get to it.

rmp

Had to have mine done for same reason at about 34000 miles; thank god I had the extended warranty!

Landru

If you've a valid warranty, the dealer. Competent or not it's Chevrolet's problem the job's done correctly, and, if it's botched.

azc62006

some of you say just re tighten the pan bolts.. have you ever done this? i was under the lift when the mech tried it. you CANNOT get to all of the bolts.. does anybody know how to properly tourque the bolts? thats why i put my trust in the mech at my local dealership.... it took 2 days.... i was given a free rental no fuss. picked up car smelled oil went back after a day they found that the oil level sensor was missing an "o" ring from the factory.. had one in stock and no more smell.... just because a couple of dealerships messed up doesnt mean that they are all idiots......

azc62006

does it look like this? see that cradle? there is no way that anyone can properly tourque the bolts under the cable... the key word is properly..... that area you see that was wet was with 10,000 miles.... look at the wire coming out of the housingtop right after the replaced the oil pan gasket that where it was leaking after a day or so.... thats the easy fix....

Cherokee Nation

The two down here are !!!!

cmonkey713

Does anyone know what the pan bolt torque is?

z06clif

My tech has told me that its about 8 hours of labor.

Clif

KWC6

My 08' pan leaked and dealer replaced gasget and whatever else, still under warranty. Get it done, it will only get worse if you don't.