Battery terminal corrosion
#1
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Battery terminal corrosion
08 base vert
I had two Delco batteries go down in the same way. Both started leaking after about 23 months. The first was replaced under warranty and when the second one went I got an Optima yellow top. When both replacements occurred I removed a lot of white powdery corrosion from the terminal clamps. (Not to mention I had to clean the battery tray and paint the area on the frame that the acid removed he paint from.)
About two weeks after I had installed the Optima I noticed some corrosion on the positive battery cable clamp and cleaned it off-thought I must have missed it at the time of the replacement.
Today I checked and found that both the positive and negative clamps were covered in the white powdery corrosion again.
Any ideas as to what is causing this problem. The DIC indicates I am generally charging at 14.2 to 14.4, occasionally varies up or down, but not often.
I had two Delco batteries go down in the same way. Both started leaking after about 23 months. The first was replaced under warranty and when the second one went I got an Optima yellow top. When both replacements occurred I removed a lot of white powdery corrosion from the terminal clamps. (Not to mention I had to clean the battery tray and paint the area on the frame that the acid removed he paint from.)
About two weeks after I had installed the Optima I noticed some corrosion on the positive battery cable clamp and cleaned it off-thought I must have missed it at the time of the replacement.
Today I checked and found that both the positive and negative clamps were covered in the white powdery corrosion again.
Any ideas as to what is causing this problem. The DIC indicates I am generally charging at 14.2 to 14.4, occasionally varies up or down, but not often.
#2
Team Owner
Member Since: Jun 2005
Location: Northern, VA
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St. Jude Donor '15
"In honor of jpee"
that's difficult. the charging rate seems ok. so, do you drive while watching/with the charging DIC on that specific item? seems little too easy, but have you tried those green and red felt things that go on the posts?
over time, there's some acid getting out, but not on both batteries and not to that extent. I presume they're both anchored down so that they're not moving around in the tray. may want to have someone check the output of your alternator. something seems to be "cooking" the battery---that's usually one of the ways it spews excess fumes or even moisture. note: do you have a battery cover on it of some kind like an aftermarket jobby?
over time, there's some acid getting out, but not on both batteries and not to that extent. I presume they're both anchored down so that they're not moving around in the tray. may want to have someone check the output of your alternator. something seems to be "cooking" the battery---that's usually one of the ways it spews excess fumes or even moisture. note: do you have a battery cover on it of some kind like an aftermarket jobby?
#3
Team Owner
Member Since: Feb 2000
Location: Conroe Texas
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CI 1-4-5-8-9-10 Vet
St. Jude Donor '03,'04,'05,'07,08,'09,'10,’17
I would think some gasses are leaking around the terminals. But 3 batteries in a row sounds suspicious. I wonder if your car is overcharging?
#4
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Thank-no cover-sounds like over charging to me. I will have it checked out.
I am an ex-pilot and tend to scan the panel still. Also sometimes board during trips and scroll through the DIC. Drive the car mainly on the weekends and trips, but have over 40K on it at present.
When the car was fairly new I was on a long road trip and while in Arlington, VA the volt gage showed only 12 volt charing rate. Was fortunate and found a dealer close by who was very nice and looked at the car in the service bay. Hooked up a computer to the port and determined no problems at that time and was advised the computer control's the charge rate, later during the day the charge rate returned to normal.
I am an ex-pilot and tend to scan the panel still. Also sometimes board during trips and scroll through the DIC. Drive the car mainly on the weekends and trips, but have over 40K on it at present.
When the car was fairly new I was on a long road trip and while in Arlington, VA the volt gage showed only 12 volt charing rate. Was fortunate and found a dealer close by who was very nice and looked at the car in the service bay. Hooked up a computer to the port and determined no problems at that time and was advised the computer control's the charge rate, later during the day the charge rate returned to normal.
#5
Race Director
When the car was fairly new I was on a long road trip and while in Arlington, VA the volt gage showed only 12 volt charing rate. Was fortunate and found a dealer close by who was very nice and looked at the car in the service bay. Hooked up a computer to the port and determined no problems at that time and was advised the computer control's the charge rate, later during the day the charge rate returned to normal.
Otherwise one would think a little diectric grease on terminals would stop all corrosion. Of course perhaps not if its being overcharged, though. :Confused2:
Let us know when/how this anomaly eventually manifests, becomes frequent enough you're forced to address the problem. Only a question of time, now.
#7
Melting Slicks
If your sits in between using the acidic fumes will be corrode the termials faster than someone who uses their car as a daily driver. When the first battery was replaced to you pay real good attention to the cable itself, corrosion will travel up the cable. And of course back down with a cleaned terminal end.
I would start with doing a voltage drop test between the battery and the alternator. With the car running and your volt meter on DC, put a lead on the positive battery terminal and the other on the alternator.
If you have a voltage drop, it means you have resistance that needs to be addressed. (Corroded or lose connection or wire.)
Autozone or Kragen sell battery corrosion cleaner that works really well.
Then use some contact grease and pads and then monitor your battery from that point on.
DJ
I would start with doing a voltage drop test between the battery and the alternator. With the car running and your volt meter on DC, put a lead on the positive battery terminal and the other on the alternator.
If you have a voltage drop, it means you have resistance that needs to be addressed. (Corroded or lose connection or wire.)
Autozone or Kragen sell battery corrosion cleaner that works really well.
Then use some contact grease and pads and then monitor your battery from that point on.
DJ
#8
Race Director
Why aren't you protecting the terminals from corrosion?
http://www.amazon.com/NOCO-A202S-Bat.../dp/B001DKRGLM
"NOCO battery corrosion preventative is formulated to make all surfaces impenetrable to corrosion-causing acid fumes which reduce battery life and cranking ability. It is suitable for battery terminals, cables, hold-downs, enclosures, boxes and carriers. It does not dry or evaporate and guaranteed for the life of your battery. "
http://www.amazon.com/NOCO-A202S-Bat.../dp/B001DKRGLM
"NOCO battery corrosion preventative is formulated to make all surfaces impenetrable to corrosion-causing acid fumes which reduce battery life and cranking ability. It is suitable for battery terminals, cables, hold-downs, enclosures, boxes and carriers. It does not dry or evaporate and guaranteed for the life of your battery. "
#9
Race Director
My car is a 2006 with 9,000 miles. Original battery and no corrosion. Battery acid is hard to remove, any residual from the first and second leaks could still be causing problems. Retreat the area and cables, see if that cures the problem.
#11
Team Owner
I tested battery by using a hydrometer on each chamber and according to that it's a dead battery.
Put it on a slow charge and meter indicated it needed to be charged. As it was charging all chambers started to bubble a little bit. Didn't have to leave it on too long. Acid could have leaked all over the place
What is a battery load test?
Last edited by LS WON; 02-05-2012 at 06:20 PM.
#12
Safety Car
Be sure you have the correct cone-shaped terminal nuts!
Your terminal clamp & nut should look like this:
On the other hand, a regular nut will hold the clamp in place. But it will NOT tighten the clamp properly. This can allow excessive corrosion between the terminal and the clamp.
From another thread on another forum:
http://www.ls2.com/forums/showthread.php?t=846931
Your terminal clamp & nut should look like this:
On the other hand, a regular nut will hold the clamp in place. But it will NOT tighten the clamp properly. This can allow excessive corrosion between the terminal and the clamp.
From another thread on another forum:
http://www.ls2.com/forums/showthread.php?t=846931
#15
Clean your connections and post with a wire brush and blow off the excess shaving dust. Re-tighten connections and make sure battery hold downs are operating as designed. Lastly, buy some battery terminal protector spray at any auto parts store and coat the connections liberally.
If the problem persists, you might have another issue.
BTW, on my new to me 07, the original Delco battery is shot with 27k miles. Based on car condition when I bought it, I assume it sat for long periods of time and possibly became discharged.
I'll probably replace it with a Deka come this spring.
BTW, does anyone know if you have to have the computers reset at the dealership when you replace the battery?
If the problem persists, you might have another issue.
BTW, on my new to me 07, the original Delco battery is shot with 27k miles. Based on car condition when I bought it, I assume it sat for long periods of time and possibly became discharged.
I'll probably replace it with a Deka come this spring.
BTW, does anyone know if you have to have the computers reset at the dealership when you replace the battery?
#16
Safety Car
-- You'll have to initialize the window indexing (it's easy, see "Windows" in your owners manual).
-- You might need to reset the radio stations -- some folks report they had re-do the presets. Write 'em down beforehand.
-- If the TPMS reads '0' psi, it should reset by itself after you drive a little.
VERY Important Tip: Do NOT lose the special cone-shaped terminal nuts. In fact, there's no need to remove the nuts... just loosen them to disconnect the battery clamps.
Last time I checked, you cannot buy these special nuts from GM as a separate item... only as part of a $150? cable assembly.
#17
I would check the voltage with a voltmeter and make sure the battery is not being overcharged. And you might want to check the top of the battery to make sure it isn't cracked or broken. If everything is OK, I would spray a little oil on the terminals- like WD40 or even a few drops of regular motor oil. You might also try laying a few pennies on top of the battery. The corrosion will collect on the pennies before it collects on the terminals.
#18
Absolutely not necessary! I've disconnected my battery many times...
-- You'll have to initialize the window indexing (it's easy, see "Windows" in your owners manual).
-- You might need to reset the radio stations -- some folks report they had re-do the presets. Write 'em down beforehand.
-- If the TPMS reads '0' psi, it should reset by itself after you drive a little.
VERY Important Tip: Do NOT lose the special cone-shaped terminal nuts. In fact, there's no need to remove the nuts... just loosen them to disconnect the battery clamps.
Last time I checked, you cannot buy these special nuts from GM as a separate item... only as part of a $150? cable assembly.
-- You'll have to initialize the window indexing (it's easy, see "Windows" in your owners manual).
-- You might need to reset the radio stations -- some folks report they had re-do the presets. Write 'em down beforehand.
-- If the TPMS reads '0' psi, it should reset by itself after you drive a little.
VERY Important Tip: Do NOT lose the special cone-shaped terminal nuts. In fact, there's no need to remove the nuts... just loosen them to disconnect the battery clamps.
Last time I checked, you cannot buy these special nuts from GM as a separate item... only as part of a $150? cable assembly.
#19
Team Owner
Absolutely not necessary! I've disconnected my battery many times...
-- You'll have to initialize the window indexing (it's easy, see "Windows" in your owners manual).
-- You might need to reset the radio stations -- some folks report they had re-do the presets. Write 'em down beforehand.
-- If the TPMS reads '0' psi, it should reset by itself after you drive a little.
VERY Important Tip: Do NOT lose the special cone-shaped terminal nuts. In fact, there's no need to remove the nuts... just loosen them to disconnect the battery clamps.
Last time I checked, you cannot buy these special nuts from GM as a separate item... only as part of a $150? cable assembly.
-- You'll have to initialize the window indexing (it's easy, see "Windows" in your owners manual).
-- You might need to reset the radio stations -- some folks report they had re-do the presets. Write 'em down beforehand.
-- If the TPMS reads '0' psi, it should reset by itself after you drive a little.
VERY Important Tip: Do NOT lose the special cone-shaped terminal nuts. In fact, there's no need to remove the nuts... just loosen them to disconnect the battery clamps.
Last time I checked, you cannot buy these special nuts from GM as a separate item... only as part of a $150? cable assembly.
#20
Safety Car