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Roof Rattle fixed...simple.

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Old 01-25-2013, 12:55 PM   #21
DASHZNT
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I gotta try this when i get a chance.. im not driving mine now cuz its winter but it sounds like a great idea!
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Old 01-25-2013, 01:27 PM   #22
EVRose
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I am the O-Ring King!

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Old 01-25-2013, 01:31 PM   #23
terrymccoyc6
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Did this to my 05 yesterday.Finally no noise!!!!!!!
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Old 01-25-2013, 04:20 PM   #24
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I will pick up some o rings tomorrow. Hoping for good results.
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Old 05-13-2013, 10:21 AM   #25
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I have a 2012 GS and both roofs snap crackle and pop. In fact, the painted roof is worse than the clear top. I have thus far lubed all the pins and cleaned the weather stripping. Then I used the very expensive GM weather strip fluid on all of the clean weather strip. This mostly helped the clear roof, but did not completely stop the noises. I will try the O-rings on the front pins next. I know what size to get. But I read in this post that a few may have put o-rings on the rear pins. What size works? Any help here would be most appreciated.
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Old 05-13-2013, 10:23 AM   #26
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I put o-rings on the front and back and it still rattles on my 2008. Works for some but not all I guess...
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Old 05-13-2013, 01:41 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EVRose View Post
I am the O-Ring King!

Yea Harbor Freight!!!!!

My top was squeaking a bit. I tightened the "J-Hook" on the back of the top one revolution, and it seemed to stop it. (2011 base coupe.)
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Old 05-13-2013, 01:43 PM   #28
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Thanks for the info
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Old 05-13-2013, 01:52 PM   #29
0PaulaH
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Bought O-rings, but apparently the wrong size (found on another post). Have '08 cpe, so I'm assuming the 5/16's work.
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Old 05-13-2013, 02:09 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ibramson View Post
I have a 2012 GS and both roofs snap crackle and pop. In fact, the painted roof is worse than the clear top.
Same issue with my 2012 GS as well, but I only have the painted roof. I tried EVERYTHING and nothing worked permanently, until I shrink-tubed EVERY contact point, which include the 2 front pins, the 2 rear posts, and the middle rear latch 'hook'. Reason the O-ring fix is not the right approach many times is most of us with the creaking is due to the front posts not being perfectly aligned in the cavities. Yes, there's a bit of play in there, but if the front pins are rubbing on the outsides (or the insides), no O-ring is going to create the needed gap. That was exactly what was happening to my car. Tried the shrink-tubing method, but one of the posts was pushing up the shrink-tubing due to lack of clearance. So I had to sand down the posts (until fully polished) a little to create enough space. Then had to safety-wire it against the pin tip so it didn't squeeze down when pushing the pins into their cavities. Also sanded down the rear posts so they didn't push the top forward. It was a PITA, but the damn creaking was driving me nuts. Now the top makes no creaking noises at all, but won't declare victory until I drive it thousands of miles. Hoping the shrink tubing has enough clearance so it doesn't shears off with pressure, and allows metal to metal contact again. It shouldn't. And yes, I still greased the crap out of it (everywhere) with dielectric grease anyway. Another possible solution is to remove the top window trim and attempt adjusting the bolts holding the brackets where the front posts go into, but it'd very easy to throw the whole top out of alingment in every other direction, so didn't want to d*ck with that. My top is perfectly aligned now, and finally squeak/creak free. The worst that can happen is if one of the shrink-tubing shears off over time, I just sand the post a little more and that'd be it. I never remove the stupid roof; that's why I wanted the Z06, but my wife couldn't stand the ride stiffness. Plus I don't need the extra power, and certainly didn't appreciate the lack of noise insulation (my GS is already noisy enough ). Hope my fix finally eliminated my #1 'comfort' complaint with this car.

By the way, I have an additional issue in the form of the driver's window indexing too far up at the rear, and hitting the top internal rail over bumps (or more specifically, one of the screws holding the rail). I sanded down the worst offending screw, but still touches sometimes. I'm living with that since it's not that annoying, and don't want to open up the door panel just for that. Make sure that's not what you're hearing, since it also comes from the top folks. I'm an expert in top noises now, but it's easy to differentiate the 2. Finally, still expect top noises when hittting bumps and such, but that's different than the incessant creaking I had before. No way around those noises, but again, they don't bother me that much since they're not all the time. Good luck.

Last edited by ELP_JC; 05-13-2013 at 02:19 PM.
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Old 05-13-2013, 02:34 PM   #31
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I did the o-ring trick last summer and it resolved 90% of the roof popping. I still get a little once in a while so I'm going to try and lube it up a bit and see if that helps.
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Old 05-13-2013, 02:50 PM   #32
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Forgot to say folks need to tackle this issue in a PROGRESSIVE way. My car was an extreme example, but it can be fixed.

The progressive sequence should be this:

1. Use dielectric grease everywhere. This will for sure eliminate any squeaking. If front pins have enough of a gap, this should cure all your top noises. Remember to also grease the latches (including the 'roller'), and where the 'roller' slides on the car parts. And obviously pins and posts liberally. Repeat as necessary, but this should last several thousand miles, or you need to try one of the fixes below.
At this point, I'd shrink-wrap the middle latch 'hook', since it's easy enough. And adjust it if needed, to create enough pressure.

2. If noise persists, use the O-ring fix now.

3. If noise persists, remove O-rings and use shrink-tubing in pins.

4. If shrink-tubing 'bunches up' when installing, then you'll have to sand that area down a little, like I had to do, to create the needed gap.

5. If you still get rear noise, you'd have to shrink-tube the posts as well, but sand them down a little before, so they don't push the top forward and prevent front pins from engaging. This is a tricky step, since you'll need to be the absolute minimum. I accomplished this by lubing the crap out of the front posts, then pushing the top rearward as hard as I could before engaging the front pins, so the shrink-tubing is not damaged while doing this (I had to replace the shrink-tubing twice before I suceeded). You need to check with a flashlight under the sun visors, to make sure the shrink-tubing is still where it was. If you only see the tip of the pins, then it was pushed up. I had to use safety-wire to prevent that from happening. And keep in mind every time you remove the top, when it's that tight, you'd damage the shrink tubing when removing the top. If you want to remove the top often, you'd have to sand down the pins/posts a little more to allow more room. Good luck folks.
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