8850

Would it be safe to run 04-06 GTO spares with the factory temporary tire up to 125-130 mph drag racing? They are rated for 81 mph according to the tire designation. I've heard of some running them but how safe?

Justasheet

It's technically not safe but everyone has been running them for years. Do a search. If they were that unsafe, there would be a million negative posts.
Jeff

AORoads

wouldn't it be just your luck, that you are the one all those others will be reading about? seriously, what's your body worth to you?

saplumr

First negative thing is they could be 9 years old. For me it would be a risk not worth taking!

Aviator

Vette5.5

As mentioned, people have been using these, drag racing on the fronts for years. Speed ratings are really more based on continous use at these speeds, and if the tires are out of sun all of their life, really shoudn't be a problem, for short stints. Be aware, GTO rim bolt patterns are really a bit off, but doesn't seem to bother many drag racers much.

Never-Enough

Does anyone drive a decent distance to & from the track on them?

I want to slap some skinnies on mine, but I don't want to shell out $1,000 for them

theofel

I drive About 50 miles to the track and 50 miles back without any problems at all. I have also left them on my car on occasion for over 300 miles over an extended period at saw NO adverse effect.

Justasheet

Lately it seems, it would be my luck but still worth running them. You could get hit by a meteor too.

8850

So it looks like those of you that have ran them have had no problem even though not rated for the higher speeds. Ran a search but only found many listed forsale and nothing mentioned about how safe.

I examined one vs. the M & H belted tire and they do have a much stiffer side wall. Indication to me they may be stronger. I would think the M & H would also not be good for long substained periods of high speed. Probably both would be safe as long as they don't get too warm.

How does GM balance these tires? The two I have I found no weights.

Justasheet

I never heard of them needing balancing to tell the truth. Also, if you do not a have a base C6, you will need spacers like me for Z51 larger calipers. The M&H are bias ply and not as good a handling tire as the radial temp. tire although it is lighter. Some tracks frown upon the temp. status stamped on the tire and rim too.

8850

I have the base brakes so no problem with clearance. However I don't like the different bolt circles. They don't seem to mount very well when bolting up with the different bolt circles.

Mine have no weights but I suppose GM found a way without weights.

theofel

I would definetely have them balanced. To get the spares wheels and tires to seat...you must grind the center(hub) slightly...thus the balancing is necessary. All wheels should be balanced and the stems should be replaced with metal stems(as per NHRA).

HOXXOH

Assuming the center is only opened up enough to fit on the hub, the wheels will remain hub centric. The bolt pattern diameter of the wheel is .030 smaller than the Vette, so the lug nuts initially contact the outer surface of the tapered holes when tightening. Since the wheel is hub centric, the lugnuts will never cause the wheel to shift off center. However, I still use a procedure to ensure the back side of the wheel remains in full contact with the rotor. After mounting the wheel, run the nuts on finger tight, then tighten in three star pattern passes with the first just snug enough to let the wheel shift on the circumference and the last being torqued to 100 lb ft.

8850

Good info Tom. I used the whobble nuts on the last set of GTO wheels I had which worked ok but still not as good as perhaps a spacer with the correct BC. Ended up selling them and now bought another. Trying to decide if I need to get M & H tires or run the GTO tires. Are you running the GTO temporary tires when you race? The two I have look like new having most likely been in a GTO trunk but they are quite a few years old now.

HOXXOH

Grind off the embossed lettering on the wheels and repaint. The info is there to draw attention to the tire rating that most people would never read. The wheel itself is capable of much higher side loads than ever encountered at the drags.

I don't use my race wheels/tires except at the track. Because of traction considerations due to sizes, tread types, pressures, and compounds, they're just simply not as safe on the street as regular
tire/wheel combos. Although many people drive to and from the track on their race tires, the traffic and road conditions are beyond the design limitations, so far more caution is required.

Spacers are NHRA legal if the studs are long enough, but adapters, temp spare tires, and rubber valve stems are not legal.

HOXXOH

I run M&H bias ply skinnies and Hoosier DR. It's about weight and safety. Using the correct/good equipment saves aggravation in the long run.

There's a major difference between a spacer and an adapter. A spacer merely moves the wheel outward. An adapter utilizes two sets of lugnuts and studs to allow different bolt pattern wheels than stock. Spacers are NHRA legal if the stud is long enough that the nut engages at least the same length as it's diameter. Adapters of any size or configuration are not legal.
Do whatever you want according to what your tech guy will allow, but be aware of the rules in case they start being enforced.