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Key Fob Battery Replacement DIY

Old 06-28-2014, 03:31 PM
  #141  
The_Raging_Bull
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Originally Posted by Delbert
No, I didn't use any lubricants.....just pulled the key out about 3/4 of the way and turned it ever so slowly until I heard that awful sounding crack and saw that the seam had began to part. I then removed the key and used the eyeglass screwdriver to slowly make my way around the seam until it was completely separated. It was actually much easier than I thought. I changed the battery in my C4 a couple of years ago and when I tried to put the two halves together, it would not stay. I ended up having a rubber band around my FOB after the dealer told me it would be around $175 to replace that FOB!!!!
The two halves on my C6 went back together very easily and it is rock solid.
The use of the lubricant keeps you from having to use any other tool than twisting the key in the fob. Glad you were able to split the case w/o damage, but rather than any type metal screwdriver...if you had to use a tool...use the same plastic pry tool that you can use on an ipod to open it. That allows you to run the open seam around until the case completely splits the shell; and guaranteed no damage to the case.

There were other threads on the fobs where the shell got damaged when a metal screwdriver was used to split the case.
Old 06-29-2014, 09:14 AM
  #142  
LS WON
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Originally Posted by The_Raging_Bull
The use of the lubricant keeps you from having to use any other tool than twisting the key in the fob. Glad you were able to split the case w/o damage, but rather than any type metal screwdriver...if you had to use a tool...use the same plastic pry tool that you can use on an ipod to open it. That allows you to run the open seam around until the case completely splits the shell; and guaranteed no damage to the case.

There were other threads on the fobs where the shell got damaged when a metal screwdriver was used to split the case.
Old 07-16-2014, 06:43 PM
  #143  
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Originally Posted by Dan Parker '96
Just did this last night for both my '08 fobs. Pop your key loose and slide it out about 3/4 of the way and give it a bit of a twist. Both my fobs popped apart easily. Replace battery with CR-2032 (negative side up). Line everything up (especially the key release tab) and snap together with fingers. My circuit boards stayed in place but make sure all pieces align correctly. As always YMMV, don't force anything and be patient.
I've tried everything and was beating up the fob. I started it with your twisted key idea and continued it with a small screw driver. GREAT IDEA
Old 07-20-2014, 08:43 PM
  #144  
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Had to do mine this weekend in a matter of minutes it was done , working all good again
Old 07-21-2014, 10:21 PM
  #145  
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Originally Posted by Rivera9288
Had to do mine this weekend in a matter of minutes it was done , working all good again
Old 08-12-2014, 05:51 PM
  #146  
StKnoWhere
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In case not covered in one of the many FOB battery replacement threads:

The #2 FOB for my 2008 sat unused for over 5 yrs, tried it today and the battery was dead.

It did not work with a fresh battery but still worked in the slot.

Taking it apart the 6th time I noticed the rectangular gold battery contact pad was corroded. Buffing it with a pencil eraser made it shiny again and the FOB worked after re-assembly.
Old 09-07-2014, 12:38 AM
  #147  
Sugar Loaf Bob
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I have a 2010 GS, my # 1 FOB's battery was getting real week, stopped at my Chevy dealership and spoke with parts manager, he checked it with a special tester, it tested OK but weak, told him I wanted the battery changed anyhow, he opened it and replaced it, retested it and you could see it was better. It cost $5.12, got to my car and it works like a charm, for that kind of money GO to your dealership ASAP
Old 09-09-2014, 09:07 PM
  #148  
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Originally Posted by Sugar Loaf Bob
I have a 2010 GS, my # 1 FOB's battery was getting real week, stopped at my Chevy dealership and spoke with parts manager, he checked it with a special tester, it tested OK but weak, told him I wanted the battery changed anyhow, he opened it and replaced it, retested it and you could see it was better. It cost $5.12, got to my car and it works like a charm, for that kind of money GO to your dealership ASAP
You have a great dealer!
Old 09-22-2014, 10:03 AM
  #149  
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I just used these directions and they are accurate, complete and easy. Thanks for posting. Much appreciated.
Old 09-25-2014, 06:54 PM
  #150  
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Noticed the last month or so that I had to get all the way up to the car and even then pressing any button was not recognized. Swapped out both batteries in both fobs and what a difference. I should have done this months ago.
Old 09-25-2014, 07:03 PM
  #151  
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Originally Posted by JKbride
For those of us who have pulled engines or transmissions you might think a Key Fob battery replacment is no biggie...in fact it is not, but if done wrong or you break your Fob you could be in a real jam.

The below takes the mystery out of changing the battery and anyone can do it. Hope this DIY thread helps

Edit: The Fob below is for a 2005-2007. I would suspect the process would be similar for others (2008-2013), but in truth I don't know that for sure. Please use care when opening the two halves. The seal is tight and if you use too much force or don't open evenly from side to side you may break the case. Tnxs to 68/70Vette for his warning on this issue for the newer Fobs.

The Steps:

First you need to purchase the batteries. You can get them at most places, and I picked mine up at a local chain auto parts store. There are two to a pack, and enough to do two Fobs.


Next remove your key ring from the Fob. You need to do this so you can open it.


Locate the slot on the front side of the Fob and use a quarter to pry it open. If you use a smaller mil coin or screw driver you will have too much play in the slot and could mar your Fob.


Once you crack it open, use your coin to work it open evenly from one side to the other till the halves are seperated. The Fob has a water tight seal which requires you to open it evenly or risk damage.




Here is a close up of the water seal. I have washed mine before and the seal held, so you don't want to damage it.


Once you have it open this is what you will see. On one half you have the electronics and on the other the battery.


You can remove the battery by carefully placing a screw driver under it and lifting. There are 3 clips which hold it in place, and once you pry it loose from one clip, the battery will lift out.



If for some reason when you lift the battery out, you might lift the whole clip assy out too...no biggie if it does. In fact, once I had my battery out I took the clip assy out and gently pushed a little on the clips to tighten them up. Just note (you can use these pics if necessary) how it goes back into the FOB.



Take your new battery with the positive side down (it will be marked with a + symbol) and press it into place. You do this by placing the battery under two clips and working it under the third.


To put it back together, place the halves together starting at the top of the FOB (oppisite the key ring slot). There are two small dog ears that fit into slots.


Working from the top end, use your thumb and forefinger to press the sides together, working evenly from side to side. The seal requires you to press firmily for the Fob halves to go together. NOTE: I have read where some use a Que-Tip and small amount of Vaseline on the seal for ease of putting it back together...in my case it was not needed.

Once you have it sealed, inspect the seams and make sure you do not have not gaps.


Now do a functions check, Lock, Unlock, Trunk and Alarm. Put the Fob in your pocket and see that your doors open and the car starts.

If not, mke sure its sealed tightly...if not, the battery clips will not make contact with the electronics. Other probems could be the battery is installed upside down or it's not making good contact with the retaining clips.

Word of advice, change the battery in only one key Fob at a time. You want to make sure you have at least one working Fobe at all times.

I hope fellow CF members find this useful and that it takes the mystery out of changing your battery
Thanks for the detailed info.
Old 09-27-2014, 12:56 PM
  #152  
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Originally Posted by woodybob
I just used these directions and they are accurate, complete and easy. Thanks for posting. Much appreciated.
Glad to help!
Old 10-20-2014, 03:04 PM
  #153  
Uncle_John
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This is still a relevant thread, thanks! I've had my '05 for 6 months. "No FOB detected" today. New battery works wonders.
Old 10-27-2014, 05:05 PM
  #154  
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Originally Posted by Uncle_John
This is still a relevant thread, thanks! I've had my '05 for 6 months. "No FOB detected" today. New battery works wonders.
Glad it helped Uncle John....I have used older threads myself and they saved me lots of time and money
Old 10-30-2014, 06:05 PM
  #155  
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Same experience for me as with others...i went to the dealer and they replaced it for me. Both key fobs ran me $10.
Old 10-31-2014, 12:56 PM
  #156  
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Great timing for this info. My #2 FOB died; battery 2.81 vdc. I replaced the battery, now 3.35 vdc. Polarity and closure are correct. FOB does not work. Tried to reprogram per the five key turns in the rear deck lock. DIC indicates "known FOB", will not reprogram what it recognizes. Tried the three 10 minute reprogram series; that too won't work. Please help. Thanks
Old 11-01-2014, 10:23 AM
  #157  
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thank God for the pictures in this thread

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Old 11-25-2014, 11:25 AM
  #158  
orca1946
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Great pic story. it really helps.
Old 12-14-2014, 08:36 PM
  #159  
Gary '09 C6
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I had to change both FOB batteries today (2010); the instructions w/photos at the beginning of this thread were truly helpful !
Old 12-23-2014, 03:31 PM
  #160  
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:smas h::sm ash:
Originally Posted by laread
I replaced the batteries in both fobs for my '08 Vette this summer. In one of the fobs, the printed circuit board was loose, in the other is was attached to one half of the fob. I put everything back together and both fobs worked. Any suggestions on how to attache the loose board to the case?

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