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Step by step instructions for do-it-yourselfers.
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LS3 Dry Sump Oil Change How to With Pics
#41
Pro
What does ^^^ the above ^^^ mean? What does that have to do with an oil change?
Thanks to GM'er for the instructions on how to change the oil on the dry sump system. I am going to be changing my '13 GS's oil for the first time this weekend and that's almost exactly like I planned on doing it, but it's nice to have the pictures.
I also went with the Mobil 1 oil filter, but it wasn't based on any sort of research. Just grabbed it because of the M1 oil and thought, "why not?" Glad to see I won't have to take it back and get a different one.
A question though, does anyone use one of those oil filter magnets I've seen on corvettemods? Thanks.
Thanks to GM'er for the instructions on how to change the oil on the dry sump system. I am going to be changing my '13 GS's oil for the first time this weekend and that's almost exactly like I planned on doing it, but it's nice to have the pictures.
I also went with the Mobil 1 oil filter, but it wasn't based on any sort of research. Just grabbed it because of the M1 oil and thought, "why not?" Glad to see I won't have to take it back and get a different one.
A question though, does anyone use one of those oil filter magnets I've seen on corvettemods? Thanks.
#42
Racer
Interestingly, after 10.5 quarts, the dipstick only shows up to the first hole in the graded/shaded area. Is it because the engine is cold-ish? This is after 1/2 hour after the oil has been filled.
#43
Melting Slicks
I assume you had started the car and let it run for a moment, checked for leaks, turned it off, waited a few minutes, then check it? I think it is a 10 minute wait before checking after running it.
#44
Racer
Yeah, leak-free for sure. Still indicates it could use another quart. I notice when I'm really romping on it (like 4k or 5k rmps), oil pressure will spike to 80 if done within 5 minutes of starting. I usually let her warm up about 30 seconds and then drive softly (under 2.5k rpms) for the first 3 or 4 minutes.
I'm VERY hesitant putting in another quart though..
I'm VERY hesitant putting in another quart though..
#45
Tech Contributor
Yeah, leak-free for sure. Still indicates it could use another quart. I notice when I'm really romping on it (like 4k or 5k rmps), oil pressure will spike to 80 if done within 5 minutes of starting. I usually let her warm up about 30 seconds and then drive softly (under 2.5k rpms) for the first 3 or 4 minutes.
I'm VERY hesitant putting in another quart though..
I'm VERY hesitant putting in another quart though..
#48
Team Owner
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Thanks, great step by step instructions.
#49
I am changing my own oil today for the first time. I`ll have my laptop by my side with this post staring at me. I bought an oil filter at Chev. I said that I had a GS convertible with a stick. They sold me the black filter instead of the blue one. Next year I`ll buy a Mobile 1 filter. I also bought the Race Ramps from Reverse Logic specifically for this job. I tried them out on my mini van last week as a test run and they worked great.
Today, it`s the Vette. Wish me luck!
Today, it`s the Vette. Wish me luck!
#50
Drifting
Thread Starter
I am changing my own oil today for the first time. I`ll have my laptop by my side with this post staring at me. I bought an oil filter at Chev. I said that I had a GS convertible with a stick. They sold me the black filter instead of the blue one. Next year I`ll buy a Mobile 1 filter. I also bought the Race Ramps from Reverse Logic specifically for this job. I tried them out on my mini van last week as a test run and they worked great.
Today, it`s the Vette. Wish me luck!
Today, it`s the Vette. Wish me luck!
#53
Melting Slicks
Chris
That was a great write up. I would tell you that jacking pucks would save you much time and aggravation. It looks like you have a shallow catch pan for the oil, if you jacked up the car and remove the dry sump plug and let the car down you would do a better job of draining the oil assuming the catch pan does not hit anything when you let the car down. Yea you do have to jack to car up and down a couple of times but it is well worth it.
That was a great write up. I would tell you that jacking pucks would save you much time and aggravation. It looks like you have a shallow catch pan for the oil, if you jacked up the car and remove the dry sump plug and let the car down you would do a better job of draining the oil assuming the catch pan does not hit anything when you let the car down. Yea you do have to jack to car up and down a couple of times but it is well worth it.
#54
Drifting
Deleted - colors didn't come through clearly on my PC.
Last edited by pickleseimer; 08-04-2013 at 10:53 PM.
#55
followed your instructions for my first DIY oil change on my '12 GS M6. Project went perfectly smooth. No issues whatsoever. Poured the new oil in nice and slow as recommended and none of the burnt oil smell many have come across. Thanks for the tips.
#56
Drifting
Member Since: Jul 2003
Location: West of Burlington, Ontario Canada
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Really! Cranking the engine to evacuate the oil from the lines will also empty the pump. First of all this isn't necessary and secondly you could cause a delay getting oil into vital parts of the engine upon start up with the new oil if the pump has lost it's prime. This few seconds of running without oil pressure will cause more damage than the dirty oil left to mix with the fresh stuff. I wouldn't be doing that.
#57
Melting Slicks
Checking the oil level in the dry sump system can be tricky.I purchased a new g.s m6 and followed directions on checking/changing oil and whenever I checked the level by book it always was at the bottom end of the dipstick.I finally added a quart and now it is 2/3 the way to the second marking.The hud shows the oil to be 3/4 full when driving.I believe the dealer did not properly fill the oil when I took possession.Good write up and thanks for the informative diagram.
#58
Your HUD shows oil level? When did that happen?