laserjim

Hey anyone who has cut off 1 rib on the lowering bolts. How is the ride with just 1 rib cut? Thanks

MassGT

Also anyone have a pic on what you actually cut?

C6RaceCar

Rides fine. Did this to my 07 and doing it on my 11 gs when the weather gets nice.

Mach2

I'd like to buy a pair of rear lowering bolts, with the rubber bushing, to have prior to lowering it. What is the part number for the pair?

Slammedc5..

I cut all the rubber off my front bolts. And removed the rear bolts. Put a thin piece of hard rubber between spring and a arm. Rides a little rough on bumpy roads. It is a z51 suspension. That's OK though. I slam all my cars.

speedraider

that how I lowered mine...

08velocity

car looks amazing !! hows the ride?

thedigitel

So do you slice off the 1st rib towards the larger rubber side of the bolt?

speedraider

no different than stock

speedraider

I cut them off right at the middle rib

netacoma2003

Both front and rear? Did you adjust the bolt at all or just cut off the ribs and re-assemble?

mcandrew67

I did mine like speedraider

wayback

So did I.

speedraider

rear bolts were cut and lowered as far as they would go. Fronts were not cut, just lowered as far as they would go. It did lower about a 1/2 inch more when the blower was installed.

ZRCLONE

Screwed all the way in and cut the same. Used a hacksaw blade and did it right on the car. I also put a dab of grease between the rubber and spring to aid in chafing.

Bedouin

I did the exact same as speedraider & my '12 GS 1LT (no msrc) looks just the same...perfect ride height. It seems like cutting off just the rear's bottom-most 1/8" metal disc is the perfect solution (for mine anayway).

Here's a tip; I used a cheap $5 hardware store cable saw & it took only a few minutes... but I didn't do a great job, & also don't like how it cuts...kinda sloppy. The cut surface wasn't flat, or smooth, but had little ridges. So I used my multi tool, with a really sharp serrated blade, to try & clean up/flatten the cut surface. It's really hard to saw at it, until you spray oil, like WD40 on the blade, then it cuts through smoothly & easily.

If I were to do it again Id've used the blade only, cut from 4 different angles (by turning the bushing w/ a wrench), & cut closely down to the bottom-most metal plate. This is to leave as much rubber under the bushing as possible (you can trim more later), but also to try & make it as perfectly flat & smooth as possible, so that it sits very flat on the LCA.

You don't want little rocks getting stuck between the rubber bushing & grinding away on the aluminum LCA surface. Those bushings shimmy around a lot on the LCA's, & I think a smooth surface helps the bushing last longer & also slip around more easily. Suspension bump-compliance is important & every little aspect matters- just my .02 & am trying to save you what I went through.

I ended up cutting off more than I wanted (just under middle plate) so I added a 2" dia rubber washer that matched the bushing dia. perfectly & glued them on w/ Barge Cement...nice smooth surfaces now. 2,000 mls & they still look good...so ultimately, my rear bushings are only 1/8" shorter.