Need help, inside edge front tire wear
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Need help, inside edge front tire wear
I had this posted in wheels and tires, and after 128 looks, no one had any info. maybe I'll do better here
After 24,000 miles my 2010 Vette convertible has excessive wear on the inside edges of the front tires. I am going to get new tires all around, and have a 4 wheel alignment.
Can someone give me recommendations on reduced camber to reduce the inside tread wear? or other recommendations.
I am sure the alignment shop has the specs, but if I don't get specific info here, I will have it aligned to the minimum acceptable camber.
After 24,000 miles my 2010 Vette convertible has excessive wear on the inside edges of the front tires. I am going to get new tires all around, and have a 4 wheel alignment.
Can someone give me recommendations on reduced camber to reduce the inside tread wear? or other recommendations.
I am sure the alignment shop has the specs, but if I don't get specific info here, I will have it aligned to the minimum acceptable camber.
#2
Instructor
Member Since: Jul 2013
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http://www.pfadtracing.com/pdfs/Corv...09.12.2011.pdf
This is what most on here use for their street cars. Apparently it reduces uneven wear on the tires.
It's what I'll be using soon as I get time in my work schedule.
This is what most on here use for their street cars. Apparently it reduces uneven wear on the tires.
It's what I'll be using soon as I get time in my work schedule.
#3
Team Owner
http://www.pfadtracing.com/pdfs/Corv...09.12.2011.pdf
This is what most on here use for their street cars. Apparently it reduces uneven wear on the tires.
This is what most on here use for their street cars. Apparently it reduces uneven wear on the tires.
Take note:
1. There is no "range" in the Pfadt specs. The settings are intended to be dead on accurate/specific.
2. Negative toe in the Pfadt settings means "Toe-in". That is not necessarily a universal definition so make sure your alignment tech understands that.
#4
Safety Car
http://www.pfadtracing.com/pdfs/Corv...09.12.2011.pdf
This is what most on here use for their street cars.
This is what most on here use for their street cars.
I also got about 15k out of my original Goodyear GEN2s, because at about 200 miles, I had those settings used for the alignment then too. They also wore evenly, and I had some tread left, the tires just got so hard, the were scaring me from spinnng so easily. A third gear spin while straight line accellerating at 4k was scary sometimes.
NOTE - The Bridgestones are still gripping VERY well at 20k miles. I just came back from WV, it was in the low 50's/high 40's, and I had to really work to make it spin.
#6
Team Owner
Also, you can feel good about getting 24,000 miles...most people here have not come close to that. Alignment is the key.
Last edited by cclive; 09-11-2013 at 06:14 PM.
#7
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
APACHEDR1V3R....... Thanks, that was exactly what I was looking for. I will use the street settings.
Thanks to all the responders, The feedback is very helpful, and the reassurance that it works gives me confidence in having it realigned to those specs.
Thanks to all the responders, The feedback is very helpful, and the reassurance that it works gives me confidence in having it realigned to those specs.
#8
Race Director
I'm curious about your meaning here. There is a min and max, which defines a range. Are you recommending the center of the range for each parameter?
And of course every parameter always has a tolerance. It is never exact. The tolerance defines the acceptable range.
#10
Team Owner
There is no min and max in the Pfadt settings, no range.
The factory settings are given with a "+/- .60 degrees". That's a range.
Lazy technicians "seem" to feel justified hitting anywhere in that range and call it a good alignment.
#11
Look at the first block (Performance Street).
There are three basic columns.
Column 1 is the specification; in this case I'll choose Front Camber. The second column gives the MIN value, which is -0.7 degrees. The third column gives the MAX value, which is -0.9 degrees.
As the other poster said, that is certainly a range, and the question is reasonable: Given the existence of a range, is there an optimum value? If I were doing the alignment, I'd shoot for -0.8 degrees, which is the mid point between the extremes.
Steven
PS - And you're correct in that many technicians will hit some value within the range, and call it good. It is 'good' - it isn't optimum, but it does fit within the recommended specification limits.
#12
Team Owner
Sure there's a range - I've got the document open and I'm looking at it.
Look at the first block (Performance Street).
There are three basic columns.
Column 1 is the specification; in this case I'll choose Front Camber. The second column gives the MIN value, which is -0.7 degrees. The third column gives the MAX value, which is -0.9 degrees.
As the other poster said, that is certainly a range, and the question is reasonable: Given the existence of a range, is there an optimum value? If I were doing the alignment, I'd shoot for -0.8 degrees, which is the mid point between the extremes.
Steven
PS - And you're correct in that many technicians will hit some value within the range, and call it good. It is 'good' - it isn't optimum, but it does fit within the recommended specification limits.
Look at the first block (Performance Street).
There are three basic columns.
Column 1 is the specification; in this case I'll choose Front Camber. The second column gives the MIN value, which is -0.7 degrees. The third column gives the MAX value, which is -0.9 degrees.
As the other poster said, that is certainly a range, and the question is reasonable: Given the existence of a range, is there an optimum value? If I were doing the alignment, I'd shoot for -0.8 degrees, which is the mid point between the extremes.
Steven
PS - And you're correct in that many technicians will hit some value within the range, and call it good. It is 'good' - it isn't optimum, but it does fit within the recommended specification limits.
http://www.pfadtracing.com/docs/camb...t-settings.pdf
#13
Race Director
GM's specs are actually good if set at the CENTER of the specs. I have 13k miles on my Super Sports and they only went thru 3/32ds of tread (started with 10/32ds). Camber on my GS is set at -1.0 front and -1.2 rear. Improper toe adjustment will eat thru a set of tires real quick, even not that much out of specs.
#14
I don't see a range in this document which is the one I, most of us, refer to:
http://www.pfadtracing.com/docs/camb...t-settings.pdf
http://www.pfadtracing.com/docs/camb...t-settings.pdf
http://www.pfadtracing.com/pdfs/Corv...09.12.2011.pdf
Seems like that would explain it. Wonder why one doc from Pfadt has ranges, and the other doesn't?
Steven
#15
I get an alignment every oil change. My tires wear evenly and believe it or not, I got 40k mi. on the rear Potenzas on my Z06. Granted I don't burn rubber, but I don't baby it either.
I got bit when I bought my '05. The first set of tires didn't last long at all (inside tread wear). I refused to take delivery of my '09 until they performed an alignment. They balked, but I stood firm. They, at least had the grace to come and show me how badly the alignment was screwed up at 6 mi. on the odometer.
Worth the money, IMO.
eta: OEM tires are crap. They don't wear for $hi$ and there are tires that handle much better. YMMV
I got bit when I bought my '05. The first set of tires didn't last long at all (inside tread wear). I refused to take delivery of my '09 until they performed an alignment. They balked, but I stood firm. They, at least had the grace to come and show me how badly the alignment was screwed up at 6 mi. on the odometer.
Worth the money, IMO.
eta: OEM tires are crap. They don't wear for $hi$ and there are tires that handle much better. YMMV
Last edited by owc6; 09-11-2013 at 11:39 PM.
#16
Instructor
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I was referencing the one given in the second or third post in this thread.
http://www.pfadtracing.com/pdfs/Corv...09.12.2011.pdf
Seems like that would explain it. Wonder why one doc from Pfadt has ranges, and the other doesn't?
Steven
http://www.pfadtracing.com/pdfs/Corv...09.12.2011.pdf
Seems like that would explain it. Wonder why one doc from Pfadt has ranges, and the other doesn't?
Steven
#17
Burning Brakes
http://www.pfadtracing.com/pdfs/Corv...09.12.2011.pdf
This is what most on here use for their street cars. Apparently it reduces uneven wear on the tires.[/I][/B]
PERFECT!!! I've had it with my inside edges of $2000 tires (Including alignment and wheel balancing)...ruining my tires way before it's time.
This is what most on here use for their street cars. Apparently it reduces uneven wear on the tires.[/I][/B]
PERFECT!!! I've had it with my inside edges of $2000 tires (Including alignment and wheel balancing)...ruining my tires way before it's time.
Last edited by joliett; 06-12-2014 at 12:57 AM.
#18
Safety Car
I set up mine with these settings, and I now have over 20k on my Bridgestone Potenza's and they are wearing eveningly. I expect to get another 5k or so out of them before thinking of replacing the tires. The alignment is key for any brand of tires on our vettes.
I also got about 15k out of my original Goodyear GEN2s, because at about 200 miles, I had those settings used for the alignment then too. They also wore evenly, and I had some tread left, the tires just got so hard, the were scaring me from spinnng so easily. A third gear spin while straight line accellerating at 4k was scary sometimes.
NOTE - The Bridgestones are still gripping VERY well at 20k miles. I just came back from WV, it was in the low 50's/high 40's, and I had to really work to make it spin.
I also got about 15k out of my original Goodyear GEN2s, because at about 200 miles, I had those settings used for the alignment then too. They also wore evenly, and I had some tread left, the tires just got so hard, the were scaring me from spinnng so easily. A third gear spin while straight line accellerating at 4k was scary sometimes.
NOTE - The Bridgestones are still gripping VERY well at 20k miles. I just came back from WV, it was in the low 50's/high 40's, and I had to really work to make it spin.
It was around $1,500 for the 4, with all the goodies (road hazard, new TPMS parts, taxes, etc.) at my local Discount Tire. I can handle that every couple years, since mine is a DD, and I really like the predictability of these tires. Meaning, they stick like glue on cold (20 degrees), hot (100 + degrees), wet, and dry roads.
All 4 tires wore so evenly across the tread, I decided to NOT get another 4 wheel alignment. I'll continue to monitor wear with the new set with my tire depth gauge, and also religiously keep the cold tire pressure at 30 psi.
Last edited by Seadawg; 06-12-2014 at 06:09 AM.