This thread should be totally non-controversial...
#22
Race Director
Since I made the change to non-runflat tires, I keep the DIC set on rear tire pressures.
If it's hot outside and I'm using the paddles a lot and keeping the RPM's up, I'll watch the trans temp.
Was stuck in traffic last week, and 86+ degrees outside, and oil temps got up to 219.
I have the Base Model w/LS2.
If it's hot outside and I'm using the paddles a lot and keeping the RPM's up, I'll watch the trans temp.
Was stuck in traffic last week, and 86+ degrees outside, and oil temps got up to 219.
I have the Base Model w/LS2.
#23
Different reason here, but as soon as I start the car cold, toggle to the oil temp gauge, and the motor does not see over 2K rpm until the oil temp hits 165 or greater.
Once it hits 165 and safe to now get on it, then I just toggle the screen back to blank.
Once it hits 165 and safe to now get on it, then I just toggle the screen back to blank.
#24
Race Director
Member Since: Sep 2007
Location: Peoria/Phoenix AZ
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C6 of Year Finalist (performance mods) 2019
With a high stall (4000) converter I monitor trans temp on the DIC. The gauges are enough for the other critical things, however I do cycle through the menu far more often than my wife thinks I need to.
All I've ever read from authorities on the subject of oil and coolant temps is that 200 for oil and 180 for coolant is the sweet spot for performance. For emissions, those numbers get bumped up 10 to 15 degrees now and were 20-30 a couple decades ago.
Oil coolers are great for the track or anywhere the load is high, but not for general street use, since the oil never gets close to the ideal temps. The dry sump cars would be better off using an oil t-stat.
Contrary to popular belief, the oil temp doesn't need to be 212 to get the moisture out of the system. If by the rare conditions that humidity causes condensation inside your closed engine, it'll easily evaporate long before the oil temperature gets to 212.
And now we are prepared for some controversy.
All I've ever read from authorities on the subject of oil and coolant temps is that 200 for oil and 180 for coolant is the sweet spot for performance. For emissions, those numbers get bumped up 10 to 15 degrees now and were 20-30 a couple decades ago.
Oil coolers are great for the track or anywhere the load is high, but not for general street use, since the oil never gets close to the ideal temps. The dry sump cars would be better off using an oil t-stat.
Contrary to popular belief, the oil temp doesn't need to be 212 to get the moisture out of the system. If by the rare conditions that humidity causes condensation inside your closed engine, it'll easily evaporate long before the oil temperature gets to 212.
And now we are prepared for some controversy.
#25
Burning Brakes
I'll ignore all this "controversy" boiling up.........
I cycle through all the main ones, including tires, while I give it a minute or so to warm up a little. Then it is generally on engine temp.
I agree oil temp is very important before jumping on it, but that is in my HUD on track mode. Comparing the little hash marks on the HUD with the DIC oil temp, I know where I want it before playing.
Longer drives, I cycle through everything periodically. I want to know all of it on long runs or hot summer days.
I cycle through all the main ones, including tires, while I give it a minute or so to warm up a little. Then it is generally on engine temp.
I agree oil temp is very important before jumping on it, but that is in my HUD on track mode. Comparing the little hash marks on the HUD with the DIC oil temp, I know where I want it before playing.
Longer drives, I cycle through everything periodically. I want to know all of it on long runs or hot summer days.
#27
Melting Slicks
#28
Drifting
Member Since: May 2011
Location: "Cottage Country" Ontario
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is this another one of your JOKE threads(where do you leave your DIC)....I feel like Im walking into a trap!...
seriously tho, mine prob stays on MPGs when just lightly cruising around town, and I will usually check tire pressure to see if they all come up to pressure evenly and will buzz thru oil readouts, and temp regularly and especially if Im driving rather hard...
seriously tho, mine prob stays on MPGs when just lightly cruising around town, and I will usually check tire pressure to see if they all come up to pressure evenly and will buzz thru oil readouts, and temp regularly and especially if Im driving rather hard...
#29
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
Ya know,....it would be nice if there was a way for the DIC to automatically cycle through all the system info, displaying each statistic for about 5 seconds.
Anyone know if that's possible, or how to do it?
Anyone know if that's possible, or how to do it?
#31
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
#32
Pro
#35
Race Director
I'm sure someone will chime in and correct me but, wouldn't oil temps closer to 212 degrees F be better. My thinking is that one of the things needed is a high enough temperature to boil off any moisture that may have condensed into the pan or, in dry sump systems, the tank and lines. Any good oil (I use Mobil 1 also) should operate without issues at these temperatures. Feel free to flame away as I have my fire suit on now.
Scott
Scott
#36
Racer
Member Since: Jan 2012
Location: Needham Massachusetts
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I experience the same low temps with the dry sump system. Tend to keep the DIC on the oil temp to at least see it gets warmed up before getting on it. Was thinking about one of those covers but what about any thoughts on it impacting air to the radiator?
#38
Melting Slicks
I don't usually get to read it since it's a garage queen.
#39
Drifting
I just drive the car; start it up; back out of the garage and driveway, and off I go. It takes me 5 minutes to get to a highway, so I figure things are warmed up enough by then. Mine is always on the MPG-----I do this with my daily driver too---even though it is pretty meaningless............on the 427 it stays at 19.2 forever unless I go on the highway for at least an hour (prior vette, ZO6 had about the same exact reading). On one 2-3 hour highway drive it read around 28. In the cold NE winters I will look at the tire pressure readings before I head out if I haven't tested the tires with a gauge in a while. As for all the other readouts................I rarely scroll through them---maybe 2-3 times a year (mainly because I forget what is there and I get curious). Have done this with my prior 3 corvettes as well. I figure an idiot light or message will come on if anything is wrong-----same as the daily drivers. Never had a problem---twice the idiot light came on to tell me one of the tires was low on pressure--that's it.