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Oil still in pan after draining

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Old 05-14-2014, 03:58 PM
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Red08
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Default Oil still in pan after draining

In case anyone is curious about how much oil is still in the pan after draining, or what the inside of the pan looks like on an LS3 engine, I took this pic when I had the gasket changed a few weeks ago. The gasket you see is the old one yet to be removed. My guess is that there was maybe 3-4 ounces at most of oil still in the pan.

Old 05-14-2014, 04:06 PM
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So it drains pretty empty... and it looks pretty clean too!
Old 05-14-2014, 05:38 PM
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Good picture. How much oil do you think is in the oil passage ways? It would be almost impossible to get it all out.
Old 05-14-2014, 08:42 PM
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Red08
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I put in 5.5 qts when I change oil & filter. After removing the pan etc, it took 6 qts to bring it up to full on the dipstick, but there obviously wasn't a 1/2 qt still in the pan.
Old 05-14-2014, 09:03 PM
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Based on that photo there doesn't appear to be anywhere near 3-4 ounces left.
Old 05-14-2014, 09:49 PM
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Gearhead Jim
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Originally Posted by jwf
So it drains pretty empty... and it looks pretty clean too!


How many miles on the car, and how often (miles or DIC) do you change the oil?
Old 05-14-2014, 09:56 PM
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The oil that is left does no harm and would need to be there for the first second or so when the engine starts. Without it who know the damage that might happen. That's why it is a good idea to fill the oil filter with fresh oil when changing your oil. Need to make sure those parts get oil ASAP. Great Info!
Old 05-15-2014, 08:14 AM
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Red08
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Originally Posted by Gearhead Jim


How many miles on the car, and how often (miles or DIC) do you change the oil?
Just turned 27,000 miles. I don't put a lot of miles on the car, maybe 5,000 - 6,000 per year. I change the oil/filter once a year, just before I park it for the winter months.
Old 05-15-2014, 12:36 PM
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From the looks of the gasket in that pic, it appears the leakage may have been eliminated by tightening the bolts a taste beyond the specs, especially at the corners. I assume you tried that first and it didn't help, so exactly where on the gasket was the leakage that forced a pan removal to cure?
Or was the leakage at one of the corners where the front and rear covers meet the block and the small individual gaskets are used?
Old 05-15-2014, 04:00 PM
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Originally Posted by HOXXOH
From the looks of the gasket in that pic, it appears the leakage may have been eliminated by tightening the bolts a taste beyond the specs, especially at the corners. I assume you tried that first and it didn't help, so exactly where on the gasket was the leakage that forced a pan removal to cure?
Or was the leakage at one of the corners where the front and rear covers meet the block and the small individual gaskets are used?
To me, it looks like they were tightened except the ones on the front corners, which are above the leaf spring and nearly inaccessible.

What say the OP?
Old 05-15-2014, 06:15 PM
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Originally Posted by MKenM
The oil that is left does no harm and would need to be there for the first second or so when the engine starts. Without it who know the damage that might happen. That's why it is a good idea to fill the oil filter with fresh oil when changing your oil. Need to make sure those parts get oil ASAP. Great Info!
Filling the oil filter is just a waste of time and another procedure to add to the oil spill mess. Second or two is all that's required to fill the filter and build pressure. Engine will not be harmed.
Old 05-15-2014, 08:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Gearhead Jim


How many miles on the car, and how often (miles or DIC) do you change the oil?
Originally Posted by Red08
Just turned 27,000 miles. I don't put a lot of miles on the car, maybe 5,000 - 6,000 per year. I change the oil/filter once a year, just before I park it for the winter months.
Thanks!

Old 05-15-2014, 09:04 PM
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Red08
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Originally Posted by HOXXOH
From the looks of the gasket in that pic, it appears the leakage may have been eliminated by tightening the bolts a taste beyond the specs, especially at the corners. I assume you tried that first and it didn't help, so exactly where on the gasket was the leakage that forced a pan removal to cure?
Or was the leakage at one of the corners where the front and rear covers meet the block and the small individual gaskets are used?
It was difficult tell exactly where it was leaking, but it was coming from somewhere in the front of the pan, where accessing the bolts to tighten was next to impossible, and I'm not sure that snugging up the bolts would have resolved the problem. For the $100 (my deductible) to get it replaced and repaired, it was worth it to me.
Old 05-16-2014, 02:42 AM
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Originally Posted by Red08
It was difficult tell exactly where it was leaking, but it was coming from somewhere in the front of the pan, where accessing the bolts to tighten was next to impossible, and I'm not sure that snugging up the bolts would have resolved the problem. For the $100 (my deductible) to get it replaced and repaired, it was worth it to me.
The price was most definitely right.

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