classicfit

Need help! I've developed the dreaded stuck shifter lever in my '06 A6. It's stuck in neutral and drive, and won't go into R or P (or S). I've read all the comments from others on this problem and MY PROBLEM IS A LITTLE DIFFERENT BECAUSE NOW IT WON'T START IN NEUTRAL. Some history- I started noticing the shift **** button getting a little bit stiff the last several times I drove the car and when I arrived home a couple of days ago, it wouldn't depress to allow me to push it into R or P. I shut the car off, and then I checked to see if it would restart, and it restarted OK in neutral. I shut it off again in accessory mode and went in the house for the night. Yesterday morning, it wouldn't start at all in neutral, and the electronics were doing strange things (horn honking three times every time I closed the driver door, driver window not rolling up but then rolling up when I closed the driver door, the DIC and Start button lighting up green but then going dead when I pushed the Start button, the "shift into park" message staying on after I exited the car and closed the door, etc.). I gave up and put a battery charger on it and set it to 'slow' (2 amp) charge overnight. This morning, same thing- no start in neutral and same dash display that lights up but then goes dead when I push the start button, so I just went and BOUGHT A NEW BATTERY and installed it. Still no start in neutral. The brake lights work OK, so I've eliminated the FUSE as one of the possible problems that seems to be common. As I said, I've read all the numerous posts and responses and have seen a variety of possible causes for the locked up shift lever, most commonly a BAD SOLENOID, and how to jury-rig the lock-out "dog" or "pawl" by holding it open with a piece of wire which I probably will do if that fixes the locked up shift lever problem. But that doesn't explain my non-start condition. What should I look for? Thanks.

0Killrwheels@Autogeek

Please remember to log your issue (file a complaint) at www.safercar.gov which is the NHTSA website. GM has not issued a recall to date and the parts can exceed 1000.00 in repair for a safety item.

Since yours wont start, could you possibly has forced the car out of park and damaged the shifter cable ?? Perhaps the transmission still believes its in park or gear and wont allow the car to start ???

classicfit

No, actually I suffered a damaged shifter cable several months ago and had that repaired. Since then, I have been as gentle on the shift lever as I could to try to prevent that expensive repair from happening again. Also, when that happened, the shift lever felt very loose, and that is not the case with this current problem.

COMMANDER2OOO

I had the exact same problem out of nowhere the car started saying shift to reverse an wouldn't allow complete shutdown. the car was in reverse because I always back in my garage but it was still telling me shift to reverse no reverse lights or backup cam either.
I tried disconnecting an reconnecting the battery but after I did that the car wouldn't start. after getting totally frustrated I put it on a tender an went to bed. the next morning the car started as normal but still said shift to reverse I didn't want to drive it under these conditions for fear of getting stranded so I just left it on the tender for a few days with the shift to reverse light on the entire time. after a few days I was determined to figure it out after starting the car my foot slipped off the clutch the car jumped then stalled out, I restarted the car an everything was back to normal reverse lights an backup cam all worked I suppose something in the shift got bumped out of alignment an some how I accidently bumped it back into alignment go figure.

A4ea

Pretty complicated and pretty random if that happened. Interesting but mine did it when I drove into the garage put uit in Park and then decided to pull up a few more inches after being in park. I could tell immediately I messed up. Has to be the linkage.......prob some small plastic part that costs 5 cents......

4SUMERZ

If that was me in your situation, I would take the time and remove the radio surround console to get easy access to the shifter assembly. With the console off, and shifter boot assembly off, you can see the lock tab that is preventing the shifter from going into park. Left side -black. When you release that, you will be able to go into park.

If it doesn't start in park, then you have other issues.

A4ea

Thanks, LV. I have to admit, I am hesitant to take that all apart.....
Do you think it will keep happening?
Thanks,
Andre

Gman in NC

I've already cut the locking dog off of my '05' shifter. Sure wish there was a nice aftermarket unit for this problem.

4SUMERZ

It's not that hard to do. maybe 1/2 hour is all. Besides, you will see if it's the problem or not.

I've had it happen a few times, hard to shift out of Park, or back into park, but it was my fault.
Here is why it happens:

Automatic Transmission - Stuck in Neutral
An automatic transmission that gets stuck in neutral. This affects all 2006 and 2007 models equipped with an automatic transmission, up to VIN 75105780.

Quick shifting from PARK to DRIVE after starting the vehicle can bind the shift lock control. This happens because the ECM requires at least one second to release the Transmission Shift Control Solenoid before the driver should move the shift lever.

Prior to the introduction of Keyless Access, the driver turned the ignition key and then moved to the shift lever – this gave the ECM enough time to send and receive signals.
With Easy Key, if the driver presses the START button and then immediately shifts the transmission shift lever, it is possible to beat the shift lock control signal to the ECM.

Cam Lock Normal Condition Cam Lock Released Properly
When this quick shifting occurs – the Cam Lock may not release – which causes the shifter to move without actually shifting gears. If the shift lever is placed into gear prior to the Shift Lock Control Solenoid deactivating the park pawl, the shift assembly can become jammed leaving the vehicle stuck in neutral.

An updated shifter assembly with improved tolerances will begin showing up on vehicles starting with VIN number 75405780. This revised shift assembly will have the same part number as the current shifter assembly.

If you don't want to buy the new shifter, then wait a few seconds before shifting so it will give time to release the solenoid properly.
or: tie back that locking tab, or cut it off to prevent it from locking.

I personally just stopped trying to shift it out of park so soon, and mine very seldom locks up any more.
If it does start doing it regularly, I'll just cut the locking tab off and be done with it once and for all.



I've added the instructions to remove the radio surround console...just in case you decide to do this.

A4ea

Thanks, LV, I will try it and will keep you posted....
Thanks again,
A4ea

4SUMERZ

Good luck. Hope it works out.

HOXXOH

A few years back, the temporary fix was explained as a sharp blow to the shift **** toward the ignition switch with the palm of your right hand. That worked several times on a friend's '07. Apparently, it jars the assembly enough to reset the solenoid. It's the shock, not brute force, that releases it.

A4ea

LV, since you're so nice....trust you won't mind a question.
Got the trim off pursuant to your directions - those electrical connections are a bitch at the first attemps, will disconnect them tomorrow.
Question: Do I have to take off shift **** to get at lever ?
Thanks,
Andre

Bruze

I have not had this problem with my '07 . . . yet.

My VIN is between the two numbers shown above, so what does that mean?

A4ea

well, my 2007 VIN is 751070XX, after first VIN cited but before second one with "fix" ............

RICH 28

If you just want to tie back or cut off the locking tab then you do not need to remove the shift ****.

4SUMERZ

Andre,

You do not need to remove the shifter ****, but it does make it easier to remove the shifter boot etc.

I happen to have my shifter leather boot removed, so I took some pics of the assembly. I had to remove my shifter ****, because I am replacing my leather boot to an aftermarket model.

Pic 1
The leather boot is removed, showing the rubber gasket around the top of the assembly. This top assembly has to be removed to access the locking tab.
Notice that the side tabs have to be pushed in to remove the top assembly. One in front of assembly and one in back (shown in pic)




Pic 2
This shows the shifter positioner tab that comes out when the top assembly (pic 1) is lifted. The black holder on shifter shaft can move up to re-align the red tab inside the holder when re-assembling.
When you remove the top assembly, you will uncover the locking tab.




Pic 3
Transmission in Park Position Solenoid



Pic 4
Shows the solenoid (brake/start button) that releases the shifter locking tab. This is the solenoid that does not energize quickly enough
to release the locking tab, thus the shifter gets stuck in Neutral/Drive
[



Pic 5
Shows the locking tab after the top assembly is removed




Pic 6
Shows the tab tied back rather than cutting off. The locking solenoid solenoid will no longer be in play.



Hopefully, this will help you a bit in attempting to solve the issues you are having.

Good Luck

4SUMERZ

The only thing those VIN numbers mean is that through warranty or TSB's, these Vin # were identified by GM as potential defective shifter assemblies for the locking up issue. Maybe GM did replace the solenoid or changed settings in the ECM to prevent it from happening in later models.

My VIN # also falls in that category listed, but I've only had the problem when I shifted too fast out of park after starting the car.
I'm sure you have not had the issue because you have left enough time for the solenoid to energize prior to shifting out of Park.
I'm not too terribly worried about it, because if it starts happening too frequently, I'll just cut off or tie back the locking tab and be done with it. I will not be buying a new shifter assembly, then find out that that one does it also.

It would be interesting to see if later Vin #'s have had any issues with the locking up.

Bruze

Thanks for the info.

If I have any problems at all I will tie it back, or maybe before if I can find the time and energy.

A4ea

It worked LV!!!!!!! I followed instructions, photos and narrative and were all a great help. Delays held me up until this AM and I tackled it all. Good tips about electrical connections. I didn't take the shift **** off, was able to only have to disconnect the cig lighter in console and competition driving switch and was able to pivot plastic panel around enough. Then "re-set" safety lever and was disappointed in that there were no holes already drilled to wire the lever "open" as in your picture/illustration. Didn't take the time to drill a hole- will do next time as I can feel the shifter is not working slick as it should be.
I doubt there is a replacement/recall that would still be honored by GM.
THANKS AGAIN, LV!!!
Andre (the happy one)