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thermostat suggested

Old 09-02-2014, 09:54 AM
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Gmf07
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Default thermostat suggested

Getting ready to put in clean radiator fluid. Do you think a new thermostat in s in order? 160 degree? 2007 m6 with 15000 miles.
Old 09-02-2014, 09:55 AM
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Don-Vette
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No.
Old 09-02-2014, 10:02 AM
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Gmf07
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Originally Posted by Don-Vette
No.
Thanks
Old 09-02-2014, 10:33 AM
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Cyber Grey
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Originally Posted by Gmf07
Thanks
Yes to new thermostat but not 160.
Old 09-02-2014, 12:30 PM
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Don-Vette
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My motto is:"if it ain't broke, don't fix it." Besides you don't need a 160 unless your running a tune with mods IMO.
Old 09-02-2014, 12:34 PM
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Bowtie_Brigade
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Originally Posted by Cyber Grey
Yes to new thermostat but not 160.
160 = luke warm heat!
Old 09-02-2014, 12:34 PM
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EVRose
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Originally Posted by Don-Vette
My motto is:"if it ain't broke, don't fix it." Besides you don't need a 160 unless your running a tune with mods IMO.
Old 09-02-2014, 01:24 PM
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Cyber Grey
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Originally Posted by Bowtie_Brigade
160 = luke warm heat!

Stock engines need hotter heat to make them run better. That is the way they are programmed.

Modified engines can use a 160.
Old 09-02-2014, 01:29 PM
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P0234
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Remove it and the caddilac (sic) converter...they were put in by the EPA who wants you to ride a bike or drive a Prius instead. Don't listen to anyone else here that says to keep it in, they work for the EPA and Obama.
Old 09-02-2014, 03:06 PM
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Guinzu
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^ That's some dumb **** info...
Old 09-02-2014, 08:42 PM
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vettman96
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Originally Posted by P0234
Remove it and the caddilac (sic) converter...they were put in by the EPA who wants you to ride a bike or drive a Prius instead. Don't listen to anyone else here that says to keep it in, they work for the EPA and Obama.
Wow.......
Old 09-03-2014, 02:54 PM
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Jimbeaux
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Originally Posted by Don-Vette
My motto is:"if it ain't broke, don't fix it." Besides you don't need a 160 unless your running a tune with mods IMO.
I agree. If the decision is made to replace the thermostat with new however, might as well replace the water pump too. That's the only time I have replaced mine. My current (stock) stat has been for over 100k miles.

Last edited by Jimbeaux; 09-03-2014 at 03:04 PM.
Old 09-03-2014, 03:19 PM
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BSE1956
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Keep in mind that your engine was made to run at a particular temp. +/- a few degrees.
Running a cool (-35 degrees) thermostat will fool the fuel management into thinking it is always "cold". This will make for a richer mixture. Not good.
Other wear problems can occur as well. Stick with the 195.
Note: I flushed and changed my fluid about a month ago (13,500 miles), and the car generally runs 2-4 degrees cooler than before.
Very slow process. Easy, but tedious. Make sure you have other chores to do while waiting for the heating & cooling cycles.
Old 09-03-2014, 03:53 PM
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i have to admit that i removed the CAT on my new 1981 vette back in 82 and it ran just fine. actually, it sounded twice as good as my buddies 79 and 81 corvettes. (we all bought them at the same time) i swear it sounded like i had the npp exhaust on that car. just sayen
Old 09-04-2014, 09:24 AM
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6Speeder
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Originally Posted by BSE1956
Keep in mind that your engine was made to run at a particular temp. +/- a few degrees.
Running a cool (-35 degrees) thermostat will fool the fuel management into thinking it is always "cold". This will make for a richer mixture. Not good.
Other wear problems can occur as well. Stick with the 195.
Note: I flushed and changed my fluid about a month ago (13,500 miles), and the car generally runs 2-4 degrees cooler than before.
Very slow process. Easy, but tedious. Make sure you have other chores to do while waiting for the heating & cooling cycles.
Actually, that's NOT true. The ECM will run the engine in closed loop mode (run 14.7 A/F) when the ECT gets above 120ish, depending on other conditions. It WON'T run rich with a 160, compared to a stock thermostat. It will, however allow more timing, hence more power, because the engine will not be as prone to knock. Now, a 160 won't get your engine to run any cooler in protracted stop and go traffic unless you reprogram your fan to come on at lower temps, but will allow you to run at/about 170-180 when at higher/freeeway speeds.

To the OP: You don't NEED to change the thermostat, but it won't hurt, and in some conditions, will help.
Old 09-04-2014, 11:59 AM
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Originally Posted by BSE1956
Keep in mind that your engine was made to run at a particular temp. +/- a few degrees.
Running a cool (-35 degrees) thermostat will fool the fuel management into thinking it is always "cold". This will make for a richer mixture. Not good.
Other wear problems can occur as well. Stick with the 195.
Note: I flushed and changed my fluid about a month ago (13,500 miles), and the car generally runs 2-4 degrees cooler than before.
Very slow process. Easy, but tedious. Make sure you have other chores to do while waiting for the heating & cooling cycles.
Thank you
Old 09-04-2014, 04:38 PM
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Bill Dearborn
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Originally Posted by 6Speeder
Actually, that's NOT true. The ECM will run the engine in closed loop mode (run 14.7 A/F) when the ECT gets above 120ish, depending on other conditions. It WON'T run rich with a 160, compared to a stock thermostat. It will, however allow more timing, hence more power, because the engine will not be as prone to knock. Now, a 160 won't get your engine to run any cooler in protracted stop and go traffic unless you reprogram your fan to come on at lower temps, but will allow you to run at/about 170-180 when at higher/freeeway speeds.

To the OP: You don't NEED to change the thermostat, but it won't hurt, and in some conditions, will help.
May work for short bursts of wide open throttle but other than that doesn't do any good. As soon as you start running hard for more than a few seconds the coolant temp goes to the max level based on the cooling capacity of the cooling system. Typical C6 coolant temps when running hard (speeds above 100 mph and WOT) for 5 minutes and above are around 220 no matter whether you have the stock 186 deg thermo or a 160. Only way to bring it down is to add cooling capacity. Reprogramming the fans doesn't work since they inhibit air flow through the radiator at speeds above 35 mph and have to be turned off.

Bill

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Old 09-04-2014, 10:45 PM
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Vet Interested
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Originally Posted by P0234
Remove it and the caddilac (sic) converter...they were put in by the EPA who wants you to ride a bike or drive a Prius instead. Don't listen to anyone else here that says to keep it in, they work for the EPA and Obama.
Sell what you're smoking. You are gonna be rich!
Old 09-05-2014, 12:46 AM
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Rebel 1
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Originally Posted by 6Speeder
Actually, that's NOT true. The ECM will run the engine in closed loop mode (run 14.7 A/F) when the ECT gets above 120ish, depending on other conditions. It WON'T run rich with a 160, compared to a stock thermostat. It will, however allow more timing, hence more power, because the engine will not be as prone to knock. Now, a 160 won't get your engine to run any cooler in protracted stop and go traffic unless you reprogram your fan to come on at lower temps, but will allow you to run at/about 170-180 when at higher/freeeway speeds.

To the OP: You don't NEED to change the thermostat, but it won't hurt, and in some conditions, will help.
Great explanation and absolutely correct.
After changing to a SLP 160* stat my cruising temp. is 174-180*, oil temp. is 210-218* with no other changes.
There is no difference in gas mileage.
Changed it out 3 years ago and completely satisfied with it.

Bob
Old 09-05-2014, 12:58 AM
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ProfessorDeath
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Originally Posted by P0234
Remove it and the caddilac (sic) converter...they were put in by the EPA who wants you to ride a bike or drive a Prius instead. Don't listen to anyone else here that says to keep it in, they work for the EPA and Obama.
Worst suggestion I've ever heard. No reason for a new T-Stat. If you are planning mods in the future a 160 wouldn't be a bad investment, but if you're just flushing? No need for a swap of any kind.

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