Jack Forbes

Teach me how to clay bar new experience to me

BWF07

The main things to remember, is 1. Use plenty of lubricant on the surface area, 2. if you drop the clay on the ground, throw it away and get a new piece, 3. always folded the clay and rework it after you do a section, 4. check each area with the plastic bag before you move on. If you are not sure what the plastic bag test is, that is where you get a small plastic bag such as a zip lock sandwich bag, put your hand in it and lightly run it over the surface and if you feel a rough surface like bumps then you need to clay the car.

Unless you car is extremely contaminated, you should be able to do a Corvette in less then an hour.

Jack Forbes

where do I get the clay and what kind of lubricant do I use

Boomer111

I suggest you look into this product the "Nano" sponge:

http://www.autogeek.net/nanoskin-spe...nge-combo.html

If dropped just rinse it off unlike the clay bar which should be discarded. You still need a detail spray for lubricity.

Buy online through forum or any good car parts store that has a detail section.

The Nano product may be more difficult to find in most stores. A good detail supply outlet would have it though.

I used the fine grade sponge. I suggest this first before the medium grade.

Do the baggie test. Wash the car and place a sandwich bag over your hand and feel the paint. After claying/nano the paint will be smooth , no little bumps.

Zilla

Check an automotive store, McGuires sell a kit.

You can also try Zaino

BWF07

Sorry, I just assumed you had the clay bar and lubricant already. You can get a clay bar kit at any of the major auto parts stores and it will come with everything you need. I have never used the sponged mention, but I understand it is a great product.

0Killrwheels@Autogeek

http://www.autogeek.net/detailingtips.html

Let us know if you need more help .... and yes there is now detailing clay, cubes and pads.

Not So Fast

Even Wal-Mart sells them, just bought a Meguairs kit, $18 includes 2 clay bars, lubricant (water works just as well if you run out)
CLAY BARS ARE THE BIGGEST AND GREATEST THING SINCE SLICED BREAD FOR **** CAR OWNERS, CANT IMAGINE NOT HAVING THEM
NSF

DigitalWidgets

The advice in this thread so far is all spot on...but it's really not a big deal. At one point, I thought clay bar was some tool only for the pros (and in reality, it ain't!). Clay barring your car is dead simple, you really can't screw it up. You can pick up a Maguiars kit at Walmart (under $20) and try it today. When I feel like doing it (maybe twice a year), I just make it an extra step in the wash process....wash, blow the water off with a leaf blower, clay bar, lightly wash/rinse again, dry and wax (rejex, or whatever you do).

Once you've done it once or twice, you won't be pulling much stuff out of the paint anymore (at least that's my experience). Maybe a minute or two per panel once you've figured it out (and believe me, you'll have it down in less than a minute).

Before I got the Vette, I was trying all these products out on my old minivan kid hauler. At one point in time, a painter cleaned out his tools in our driveway and left a bunch of micro-splatter paint droplets on one side of the mini van. I could not wash it off no matter much elbow grease I applied, and it sat on the car for several years. I bought some clay bar to try and low and behold, the little tiny paint droplets all just came off with very little effort.

Also, my wife's Flex was delivered with some some rusting particles on the back end on the top of the paint...my assumption was they were iron flecks from rail transport. They weren't washing off, so I took some clay to them as well....and they literally just dissappeared....and that one probably saved the paint for the future.

Good luck...but don't get to hung up on it...it really is dead simple!

Homeboy77

I would just add that you should wash your car, then wash it again, before you clay bar. Any debris on the car will get in the clay and can cause swirls. Therefore, the cleaner, the better. Like dropping the clay on the ground, when you start to see dirt or anything in the clay, throw it away. You only need to use small amounts of clay at a time.

EVRose

Youtube has lots of instructional videos on clay barring.

Not So Fast

U gonna be a "Smooth Operator" after all this advice LOL. Nothing like a car that is smooth to the touch and I might add to use a quick detailer afterwards, exceptional feeling
NSF PS I think I'll go do mine ha-ha

LMB-Z

You can substitute the lubricant with a car washing or dishwashing liquid. Fill the bottle 3/4 of the way, then pour in your washing solution and shake. Spray the solution on the car generously, then wipe vigorously with the clay bar. Do small sections at a time. I can clay bar my whole car in less than 15 minutes, not including wash time.

Mr.Nubain

I used Griots garage clay and lube. Use plenty of lube and go slow. Results kick butt, paint is as smooth as it is when it's waxed. Takes a while though.

tennblkc6

cut small pieces of the clay in ~1" squares and knead them flat to about 3" in diameter or wide enough to fit your four fingers 1st digits. this makes it easy to work with and when (not if) you drop it you wont be loosing the entire bar.

needcheese

The wax on the car needs to be removed first before clay barring. I always wash my car with dawn dish washing soap first.

GL10DR

just wondering ... will the clay not remove the wax and what happens if you don't wash with dawn dish soap?

LTennant

Jack I live here in Morgantown and have clayed all my vehicles. Have clay and lubricant and would be glad to help you out. Let me know if I can help. 304 276-1042

FortMorganAl

I can go even smaller. I kneed the piece to get it warm and then flatten on the windshield with the heal of my hand until about 3" in diameter but as thin as possible. I'm thinking it is usually about 1/8" thick. This is small enough and light enough that it will stick to your fingers and be almost impossible to drop. If you do drop it you have lost just a small piece of a full bar. And the thin piece does the same as a full bar of that size would because it is only the surface that is doing anything. Yes, it will get dirtier faster but you aren't using any more than you would using a larger piece. The thin piece also hugs the surface closer than a stiff thick piece.

Also using a small piece allows you to see how dirty it is getting after kneading by comparing it to the original. When it starts definitely looking a different color, discard it (or save it for your beater).

Finally, use almost no pressure and plenty of lubricant. The sticky clay is grabbing contamination from the surface, not removing scratches or swirl marks. It is slightly abrasive so you just want it to collect the contaminates and not sand the surface.

joeking

I had a white 98 Corvette that had a 1 inch black smudge on the right front fender. I took out some waxes and compounds and the spot would not budge. I then took out a clay bar and low and behold I couldn't believe it. The spot came right out. In some instances these clay bars are unbelievable. I use them on all my vehicles periodically. It is amazing how much a car can be detailed with the correct products.