TPMS learn mode fail
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
TPMS learn mode fail
When I took Red in for its UBEC recall fix this morning, I asked them to reset my TPMS system. I put the winter wheels/tires on a month ago, and I've misplaced my reset tool.
They were unable to reset the TPMS system because the car failed ro respond to the "enter the learn mode" using the FOB. It also failed when they connected a Tech II. Has anyone else seen this behavior? Suggestions?
They were unable to reset the TPMS system because the car failed ro respond to the "enter the learn mode" using the FOB. It also failed when they connected a Tech II. Has anyone else seen this behavior? Suggestions?
#2
Did you have the car tuned, and someone locked the tune/ ECM?
If so, then start there to have the tuner unlock the ECM/Tune so the dealer can use a Tech II on the car; unless you want to have to buy a New ECM, then install and tow the car to the dealer and pay to have the dealer flash the ECM.
Simply, you will hear a lot of pro's/cons on a locking a tune, but when such locks the dealer out of the ECM as well, not acceptable in any form.
To add with the car sitting for a few mins shut off and the doors closed, open the car door and leave it open, put the car into ACC mode, then put the fob by the shifter and press both the lock and unlock buttons at the same time.
The car should honk a single time telling you its in TPMS mode.
The process is simple enough, but the car can get out of sync with the door opened closed/car in acc/run then off mode and not ready to be put into learn mode yet.
Also, when you go to use the TPMS tool, don't try it in a tight garage, since it can wreak havoc on the car trying to learn the TPMS signals. Instead, pull the car out in front of the garage where the signals off the TPMS will not get distorted/ not learned correctly.
If so, then start there to have the tuner unlock the ECM/Tune so the dealer can use a Tech II on the car; unless you want to have to buy a New ECM, then install and tow the car to the dealer and pay to have the dealer flash the ECM.
Simply, you will hear a lot of pro's/cons on a locking a tune, but when such locks the dealer out of the ECM as well, not acceptable in any form.
To add with the car sitting for a few mins shut off and the doors closed, open the car door and leave it open, put the car into ACC mode, then put the fob by the shifter and press both the lock and unlock buttons at the same time.
The car should honk a single time telling you its in TPMS mode.
The process is simple enough, but the car can get out of sync with the door opened closed/car in acc/run then off mode and not ready to be put into learn mode yet.
Also, when you go to use the TPMS tool, don't try it in a tight garage, since it can wreak havoc on the car trying to learn the TPMS signals. Instead, pull the car out in front of the garage where the signals off the TPMS will not get distorted/ not learned correctly.
Last edited by Dano523; 12-18-2014 at 10:22 PM.
#3
Melting Slicks
Guys, I change my wheels ten-twelve times a season before and after tracks days. I use a CUB TMPS tool. It's never an issue... In the garage.. out in the open.. doesn't matter. You just have to be patient and if it fails mid sequence, turn off the car and start over. I often have to trigger one wheel more than once during the sequence and this isn't a problem Sometimes the tool will return with pressure and temp instead of triggering the sensor. I just do that wheel again and move on. Patience is required. Car can be just run.. sitting for days (if I just changed the wheels and brakes in the garage).. doesn't matter.
MAKE SURE the batter in the trigger tool is fully charged. This is the only caveat I can add, but it's just not that big a deal.
As to a locked tune locking out the TPMS learn mode, that I can't address. I have a tune in my car, but its not locked. Good question on that one.
MAKE SURE the batter in the trigger tool is fully charged. This is the only caveat I can add, but it's just not that big a deal.
As to a locked tune locking out the TPMS learn mode, that I can't address. I have a tune in my car, but its not locked. Good question on that one.
#5
Kind of different problems going on here,
Yes, my cub pro-101 does not hold a charge for long, so make sure to charge the batteries before I use it, but the before you can trigger the TPMS with the car to lean the locations, the car has to first go into learn mode.
Not going into learn mode, shut the car off, exit the car, then let the car sit for a couple of mins before trying to get it into learn mode with the Fob again (car/system out of sync). Worst case, disconnect the battery for a few mins to rest the whole system (don' forget to reindex the windows after you reconnect the battery). Also, could have been that the car battery was drained down, so make sure to throw the car on a tender for a while to top the battery back off,
Not being able to use the Tech II tool, either a OBDII communication failure, or someone locked the tune/ECM and why you are getting the communication failure when trying to use the Tech II.
If you want to weed out the communication failure on the OBDII port, just take the car to a auto parts store to have them scan the car with there reader (or hook it up to your scanner if you have one). If the scanner can scan the car in ACC mode, then the problem with the Tech II not working is the ECM has been locked via a locked tune. Here, you either get the tuner to unlock the tune/ecm, or you are looking at having to buy a new ECM to be reflashed once in the car to be able to allow the Tech II to work on the car,
Note, there are ways to reflash the ECM back to stock with a locked tune, but it take time and money, and often cheaper to just pay the money for a unlocked working ECM for the dealer to start fresh with it instead
#6
Racer
I am unimpressed with the Cub Pro 101.
Wiggling it all around the valve stem will start the process on the front left. Nothing gets it to see the front right.
Wiggling it all around the valve stem will start the process on the front left. Nothing gets it to see the front right.
#7
I plan to next replace the tires anyway so will get new set of sensors as they're from 2008.. I also wonder if it's the sensor temp that is making it not respond or turn on to the tool.. I cannot get my sensors above about 50F from oct-May here in Duluth!
#8
Instructor
Well I have the exact same issue with my ateq 5 (I think it's called).. It's their base one for the C6 and it has worked several times, but not now, even with a new alk, then Li 9V.. R front fails to reset.. Stock ECU.
I plan to next replace the tires anyway so will get new set of sensors as they're from 2008.. I also wonder if it's the sensor temp that is making it not respond or turn on to the tool.. I cannot get my sensors above about 50F from oct-May here in Duluth!
I plan to next replace the tires anyway so will get new set of sensors as they're from 2008.. I also wonder if it's the sensor temp that is making it not respond or turn on to the tool.. I cannot get my sensors above about 50F from oct-May here in Duluth!
#9
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Have you been able to previously reset the sensors after the last time the tune was accessed? I'd be disconnecting anything that was added or changed since the last time the sensors were accessed, before I went any farther. If your CoW tune or booster was installed after your last sensor reset, that's the first place I'd look, especially since the Tech II can't access the tune.
I'd also want to verify the sensors were in the wheels. Nothing works without the correct sensors in place. Park another car, with the same sensors, right next to it and see if you can at least start the sequence using the other car's wheels. Don't forget to redo the other car when you're done.
I'd also want to verify the sensors were in the wheels. Nothing works without the correct sensors in place. Park another car, with the same sensors, right next to it and see if you can at least start the sequence using the other car's wheels. Don't forget to redo the other car when you're done.
Last edited by HOXXOH; 02-09-2015 at 03:38 PM.
#10
Former Vendor
Member Since: Nov 2005
Location: Ossining New York
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St. Jude Donor '07-'08-'09-'10-'12-'13-'14
Not even remotely possible.....
Not being able to use the Tech II tool, either a OBDII communication failure, or someone locked the tune/ECM and why you are getting the communication failure when trying to use the Tech II.
If you want to weed out the communication failure on the OBDII port... If the scanner can scan the car in ACC mode, then the problem with the Tech II not working is the ECM has been locked via a locked
tune. Here, you either get the tuner to unlock the tune/ecm, or you are looking at having to buy a new ECM to be reflashed once in the car to be able to allow the Tech II to work on the car,
and often cheaper to just pay the money for a unlocked working ECM for the dealer to start fresh with it instead
If you want to weed out the communication failure on the OBDII port... If the scanner can scan the car in ACC mode, then the problem with the Tech II not working is the ECM has been locked via a locked
tune. Here, you either get the tuner to unlock the tune/ecm, or you are looking at having to buy a new ECM to be reflashed once in the car to be able to allow the Tech II to work on the car,
and often cheaper to just pay the money for a unlocked working ECM for the dealer to start fresh with it instead
As to a locked tune locking out the TPMS learn mode, that I can't address. I have a tune in my car, but its not locked. Good question on that one.
CoW BOOSTER! or my tune will have no effect whatsoever.
NO TUNES ARE EVER LOCKED and the customer "Doc" in question has my autocal device.
He can load/unload any tune I send him and the car can be read and flashed any time regardless of how it's tuned.
EVEN IF the tune was locked up, ANY scan tool or TECH II could talk to it or perform ANY function necessary except
read or write to the flash chip. All diag, TPMS learn, etc, etc could always still be performed.
---------------------------------------------------------
You are correct in that the simple test is to always have a new or "known good" sensor in your hand (another wheel & sensor
close by & not necessary to be installed in a tire or on the car) and initiate the learn procedure and attempt to learn that sensor.
If the horn beeps....the system works and your other sensors are dead. There is another simple test.
While there is a specific pattern to learn the sensors, nothing says you have to start with the FL.... Once the procedure is started,
run around the car giving each sensor a "learn" for 10 seconds or so until one of them works. If it fails all four, then you have 4 dead
sensors or the car had a problem in the RFA module. If any of them beep the horn, then the system still work and 4 new sensors are needed.
A TECH II or equivalent diag tool will be necessary to diag the RFA and/or other modules causing problems.
As a last test, you could be a douche....and go to the local car show or chevy dealership with your TPMS
tool and learn "someone elses" sensors while your're parked next to them...
It won't fix your car, but it will tell you if your sensors are working or not....
Doc.... Call me and tell me what's happening when you know more.
Chuck CoW
Last edited by Chuck CoW; 02-10-2015 at 03:11 AM.
#11
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When the self-proclaimed smartest person in the room fails to provide a solution, disregards pertinent facts, only reiterates previously offered diagnostic tests, injects a logic error, suggests bad behavior, and asks the OP to call him when the OP learns something, then you know there is a problem and it's not the one the OP stated.
#12
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Location: Ossining New York
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St. Jude Donor '07-'08-'09-'10-'12-'13-'14
Those that follow the forum....
When the self-proclaimed smartest person in the room fails to provide a solution, disregards pertinent facts, only reiterates previously offered diagnostic tests, injects a logic error, suggests bad behavior, and asks the OP to call him when the OP learns something, then you know there is a problem and it's not the one the OP stated.
because it somehow makes you feel cool..... or something.
The "TECH" that you offer is most frequently flawed or in this particular case ABSOLUTELY, COMPLETELY, TOTALLY
WITHOUT MERIT OR BASIS IN FACT.
You are clearly entertained by your continual harassment, however most of us are not entertained or impressed
with our comments, especially with respect to me.
Trust me, you repeatedly fail to impress me with the "smarts" you possess....
and it fact, you actually confuse those looking for real answers, and beyond that
you're kind of irritating me because I have asked you on multiple occasions to
avoid conflict (and embarrassment) by refraining from making any comments
to me, about me, or referencing me....
And clearly, like an addiction to crack, you're getting some kind of cheap high
by running your mouth.
For the last time.....as polite as I know how to be....
PLEASE GO AWAY and impress someone else.... SOMEWHERE ELSE.
Thank you.
Chuck CoW
#13
Those that follow the forum regularly, are well aware that you take every opportunity to heckle me and disagree with me
because it somehow makes you feel cool..... or something.
The "TECH" that you offer is most frequently flawed or in this particular case ABSOLUTELY, COMPLETELY, TOTALLY
WITHOUT MERIT OR BASIS IN FACT.
You are clearly entertained by your continual harassment, however most of us are not entertained or impressed
with our comments, especially with respect to me.
Trust me, you repeatedly fail to impress me with the "smarts" you possess....
and it fact, you actually confuse those looking for real answers, and beyond that
you're kind of irritating me because I have asked you on multiple occasions to
avoid conflict (and embarrassment) by refraining from making any comments
to me, about me, or referencing me....
And clearly, like an addiction to crack, you're getting some kind of cheap high
by running your mouth.
For the last time.....as polite as I know how to be....
PLEASE GO AWAY and impress someone else.... SOMEWHERE ELSE.
Thank you.
Chuck CoW
because it somehow makes you feel cool..... or something.
The "TECH" that you offer is most frequently flawed or in this particular case ABSOLUTELY, COMPLETELY, TOTALLY
WITHOUT MERIT OR BASIS IN FACT.
You are clearly entertained by your continual harassment, however most of us are not entertained or impressed
with our comments, especially with respect to me.
Trust me, you repeatedly fail to impress me with the "smarts" you possess....
and it fact, you actually confuse those looking for real answers, and beyond that
you're kind of irritating me because I have asked you on multiple occasions to
avoid conflict (and embarrassment) by refraining from making any comments
to me, about me, or referencing me....
And clearly, like an addiction to crack, you're getting some kind of cheap high
by running your mouth.
For the last time.....as polite as I know how to be....
PLEASE GO AWAY and impress someone else.... SOMEWHERE ELSE.
Thank you.
Chuck CoW
Thank you for your info, it is indeed helpful. I am not an expert, I'm a weekend shade tree wannabe, but I do have a BS detector that works pretty well, and your posts don't set it off... I'll leave it as that. I appreciate your help, especially the tip about starting with a different wheel to test the system.. So simple, I'd never have thought if it!
#14
Melting Slicks
Not even remotely possible..... Doc is a repeat customer for years and is currently enjoying his Edelbrock Supercharger.
Utter nonsense and completely inaccurate. Invest in some tuning classes, or call me when you need answers that are accurate.
VERY good point.... Same tuner in fact.... And a really NICE guy I'm told too....
CoW BOOSTER! or my tune will have no effect whatsoever.
NO TUNES ARE EVER LOCKED and the customer "Doc" in question has my autocal device.
He can load/unload any tune I send him and the car can be read and flashed any time regardless of how it's tuned.
EVEN IF the tune was locked up, ANY scan tool or TECH II could talk to it or perform ANY function necessary except
read or write to the flash chip. All diag, TPMS learn, etc, etc could always still be performed.
---------------------------------------------------------
You are correct in that the simple test is to always have a new or "known good" sensor in your hand (another wheel & sensor
close by & not necessary to be installed in a tire or on the car) and initiate the learn procedure and attempt to learn that sensor.
If the horn beeps....the system works and your other sensors are dead. There is another simple test.
While there is a specific pattern to learn the sensors, nothing says you have to start with the FL.... Once the procedure is started,
run around the car giving each sensor a "learn" for 10 seconds or so until one of them works. If it fails all four, then you have 4 dead
sensors or the car had a problem in the RFA module. If any of them beep the horn, then the system still work and 4 new sensors are needed.
A TECH II or equivalent diag tool will be necessary to diag the RFA and/or other modules causing problems.
As a last test, you could be a douche....and go to the local car show or chevy dealership with your TPMS
tool and learn "someone elses" sensors while your're parked next to them...
It won't fix your car, but it will tell you if your sensors are working or not....
Doc.... Call me and tell me what's happening when you know more.
Chuck CoW
Utter nonsense and completely inaccurate. Invest in some tuning classes, or call me when you need answers that are accurate.
VERY good point.... Same tuner in fact.... And a really NICE guy I'm told too....
CoW BOOSTER! or my tune will have no effect whatsoever.
NO TUNES ARE EVER LOCKED and the customer "Doc" in question has my autocal device.
He can load/unload any tune I send him and the car can be read and flashed any time regardless of how it's tuned.
EVEN IF the tune was locked up, ANY scan tool or TECH II could talk to it or perform ANY function necessary except
read or write to the flash chip. All diag, TPMS learn, etc, etc could always still be performed.
---------------------------------------------------------
You are correct in that the simple test is to always have a new or "known good" sensor in your hand (another wheel & sensor
close by & not necessary to be installed in a tire or on the car) and initiate the learn procedure and attempt to learn that sensor.
If the horn beeps....the system works and your other sensors are dead. There is another simple test.
While there is a specific pattern to learn the sensors, nothing says you have to start with the FL.... Once the procedure is started,
run around the car giving each sensor a "learn" for 10 seconds or so until one of them works. If it fails all four, then you have 4 dead
sensors or the car had a problem in the RFA module. If any of them beep the horn, then the system still work and 4 new sensors are needed.
A TECH II or equivalent diag tool will be necessary to diag the RFA and/or other modules causing problems.
As a last test, you could be a douche....and go to the local car show or chevy dealership with your TPMS
tool and learn "someone elses" sensors while your're parked next to them...
It won't fix your car, but it will tell you if your sensors are working or not....
Doc.... Call me and tell me what's happening when you know more.
Chuck CoW
#15
Former Vendor
Member Since: Nov 2005
Location: Ossining New York
Posts: 11,792
Received 243 Likes
on
183 Posts
St. Jude Donor '07-'08-'09-'10-'12-'13-'14
Any time....
Thank you for your info, it is indeed helpful. I am not an expert, I'm a weekend shade tree wannabe, but I do have a BS detector that works pretty well, and your posts don't set it off... I'll leave it as that. I appreciate your help, especially the tip about starting with a different wheel to test the system.. So simple, I'd never have thought if it!
Just holding a new sensor in your hand near the car is enough to learn the sensor to the car (no big wheel needed)
and you can test it quick.
Good luck.
Chuck CoW
#16
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
The solution to my problem finally presented itself. For the past six weeks Red has been sleeping outside while my home & garage are being totally renovated. One morning when the overnight low dropped to about +3, the TPMS displays on the DIC stopped showing 25 or 26 pounds and showed XX instead.
For some reason, after changing out my summer wheels and tires with my winter set in mid-November, the TPMS did not detect any change -- apparently until the low temperature reduced the winter tire pressures enough for the sensors to signal a real difference. When that happened, the system finally "woke up" and started operating as it should.
Once I got the XX displays, the FOB learning mode resumed and my ATEQ VT10 tool was able to successfully reset all four corners. I suspect I might have been able to force the XX displays had I disconnected the battery for 15 min.
I'm attributing this problem to battery aging in the TPMS sensors. Both summer and winter wheel sets are vintage 2006. Those batteries are said to have a 10-year design life, and that expiration date is not that far off. I'm planning to replace all eight of my sensors a year from now.
P.S. Chuck ... I'm confident your tune had nothing to do with this. But when I can move back into my house and access my Windows PC again, I'll be in touch. There are a couple of tweaks I'd like to make via my AutoCAL device.
For some reason, after changing out my summer wheels and tires with my winter set in mid-November, the TPMS did not detect any change -- apparently until the low temperature reduced the winter tire pressures enough for the sensors to signal a real difference. When that happened, the system finally "woke up" and started operating as it should.
Once I got the XX displays, the FOB learning mode resumed and my ATEQ VT10 tool was able to successfully reset all four corners. I suspect I might have been able to force the XX displays had I disconnected the battery for 15 min.
I'm attributing this problem to battery aging in the TPMS sensors. Both summer and winter wheel sets are vintage 2006. Those batteries are said to have a 10-year design life, and that expiration date is not that far off. I'm planning to replace all eight of my sensors a year from now.
P.S. Chuck ... I'm confident your tune had nothing to do with this. But when I can move back into my house and access my Windows PC again, I'll be in touch. There are a couple of tweaks I'd like to make via my AutoCAL device.
#17
Race Director
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Location: Peoria/Phoenix AZ
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I'm sooooo sorry that I offended someone who tuned my car then failed to respond to the transmission problems that were created, claiming I was the only one who ever had an issue. Of course, the over-rev that destroyed my engine due to the limiter for a stock cammed LS3 being set at 7100, must have been my fault too.
Do I carry a bit of a grudge? Yes, but it only shows when aggravated.
Yes, aftermarket tunes and electronics are known to cause problems in other areas of cars, which is why I suggested disconnecting anything that was added recently, especially since the Tech II couldn't gain access. Because the OP had the capability of reverting to a stock tune, that was the easiest to do, but not so easy if it was a tune by someone else. That was a positive for a CoW tune, but apparently not perceived that way. I also suggested using a wheel/tire from another car for a test, but noted to redo the other car when done, not just suggesting to be a douche by harming someone else's car.
Personally, I think CoW tunes are just great for those drivers who want to experience a different SOTP feeling, but have little concern for any actual measurable performance gains, nor will likely test the car at it's limits.
I respect those who honestly attempt to help others, even though I may not always agree with their diagnosis. However, I've never attacked anyone for voicing their opinion. I do take as offensive, those who jump in someone else's thread to attack myself and others (Dano523 in this one) in an attempt to deflect possible responsibility that may or may not even exist and to that, I will always respond in kind.
Will I go away? Not of my own choosing. I actually find it disconcerting that attitudes are allowed to be expressed in direct relationship to the revenue. The vast majority of vendors quietly handle their business in a very professional manner without an attitude, even when a problem arises.
Do I carry a bit of a grudge? Yes, but it only shows when aggravated.
Yes, aftermarket tunes and electronics are known to cause problems in other areas of cars, which is why I suggested disconnecting anything that was added recently, especially since the Tech II couldn't gain access. Because the OP had the capability of reverting to a stock tune, that was the easiest to do, but not so easy if it was a tune by someone else. That was a positive for a CoW tune, but apparently not perceived that way. I also suggested using a wheel/tire from another car for a test, but noted to redo the other car when done, not just suggesting to be a douche by harming someone else's car.
Personally, I think CoW tunes are just great for those drivers who want to experience a different SOTP feeling, but have little concern for any actual measurable performance gains, nor will likely test the car at it's limits.
I respect those who honestly attempt to help others, even though I may not always agree with their diagnosis. However, I've never attacked anyone for voicing their opinion. I do take as offensive, those who jump in someone else's thread to attack myself and others (Dano523 in this one) in an attempt to deflect possible responsibility that may or may not even exist and to that, I will always respond in kind.
Will I go away? Not of my own choosing. I actually find it disconcerting that attitudes are allowed to be expressed in direct relationship to the revenue. The vast majority of vendors quietly handle their business in a very professional manner without an attitude, even when a problem arises.
#18
Racer
The rub here is how do you tell if it's a dead sensor not responding or your POS TPMS tool not tripping it?
At least without scheduling an appointment with a tire-shop and paying the tire-geld?
At least without scheduling an appointment with a tire-shop and paying the tire-geld?
#19
If your tool is able to scan, then you can scan each TPMS one at a time to trigger them and get a reading off each one of them (without the car needing to be in relearn mode).
Scan of one of my front tires, and each TPMS has it own serial number, so as they are triggered in the correct order when the car is set into relearn mode, the car (RCDLM) relearns then in the correct tire position/order.
Other nice things on the inexpensive Cub tool (was $19, but tire rake sold out of them), the tool can not only scan and trigger, but clone TPMS as well. Also, since the tool has a vet 05-09 setting, then a vet 2010 to 13 setting (HHR 09 setting for the later vets), you can tell if the wrong year type TPMS are in the tires as well (wrong year/type TPMS for the Vet year models will not communicate with the RCDLR in that year vet).
Last edited by Dano523; 02-12-2015 at 05:44 AM.
#20
So we are back to why the tech II could not put the car into relearn mode when you drove it to the dealer in the first place?