treydg2003

I ordered the speaker upgrade from doubledmods. I am putting in the 2 3.5" door speakers and 5.25" rear speakers. Along with a stealth 10" sub and box, Jl sub with power akoustik amp. My question is, for now I am not wanting to replace the factory door whatever you call em thumpers?!?! as of yet anyway. Do you guys suggest unwiring the factory thumpers or just leave them? I also plan on unhooking the center speaker as well. I am using all JL speakers so I know the quality is excellent. I plan on in the future putting 6.5s in the door where the thumpers are but as of now Im not putting an amp on the door speakers just going to wire them to factory bose unit "I know amplified is better but I dont plan on doing that till I add the 6.5s" thoughts?

treydg2003

Anyone?

Dano523

If you are going to use the Bose amp, then go with the Kicker DS speakers. The Bose amp does not enough power to drive the higher amperage speakers effectually.


As for the Thumpers in the doors, the Bose amp does not drive them since they have there own amps in the speakers themseves, but the bose amp just sends a signal to the amps in the speakers instead.

Its your choice if you want to run the thumpers and the sub, or just the sub alone.

As for the speaker in the dash, can unplug it, or just throw an ohm resistor in line to pull its volume down a touch so it not so much center fill instead.

Also, keep in mind that only the 3.25 speakers in the door are stereo off the bose amp, and the rest of the speakers are mono instead, including the two back 5.25" speakers.

treydg2003

Thanks for the reply. Changed order to the kicker series. Do you suggest leaving the center speaker or unhooking? Is there a way to increase the factory amp? With my volume all the way up it doesn't seem as loud as my duramax with bose system. I've tried lookin on the navigation /radio but cannot find anything to increase the volume.

treydg2003

Not the volume it's self but like a booster on an amp

EVRose

There is no way to increase the gain on a Bose amp. It is what it is...sub standard.
You'd be better off getting a 4 channel amp and powering the front door speakers and the sub at the same time.
You can disconnect the center speaker and the rear speakers are pretty much useless as well with a mono signal.
I made a preamp output harness for my factory nav, bypass the Bose amp, replaced the door speakers with Polk components, added 12" sub in the back and put in an amp for the doors and one for the sub. Center and rear speakers are disconnected.

Dano523

On the dash speaker, you can reduce its volume by adding in a Ohm resistor in line on the positive wire, and something like a 2ohm at 10 watts should be enough to soften it enough for some light fill in the upper mid range, while not drowning the stereo effect of the door 3.25" speakers.

As for the Bose amp, it pretty much set factory for the amount of sound that the amp will put out close to full radio **** volume before it just pushing way too much distortion instead (*distortion is what kills the speaker). So yes, you could bump the input volumes to the Bose amp with pre-amps so it will ramp up faster with a lower stereo **** setting, but your still limited to the amount that the amp will put out cleaning before the THD level become too great, and you distory the speakers instead.

* when the THD levels become too high out of amp, the speaker coil sections no long tracks cleanly in the magnet channel path, but instead the coil windings start to strike the channels walls instead. So instead of burning the speaker coil wires out by running too much voltage to them cleanly, the coil winding are broken/abrasion worn through instead (how 99% of speakers are destroyed, hence not over amp voltage burned out, but distortion destroyed while the speakers where seeing no where their max rated voltage).


As for the vet, any audio installer can do the entire system with just a 2 channel amp, and passive cross overs/ resistors to balance the system. The Bose location is more than enough room to install a 100 watt per channel reference class A/B amp and with the amp run at a 2ohm load, more than enough power to hit 138db at a flat 20-20K of less than .02 THD. If you just want loud, then a class D or G amp will get you there cheaper, but your paying the price for cheap power with clarity/smoothness of the sound instead (why tube amps still rule, even after all these years).

Vet Interested

I replaced the 2.5s and the rear speakers with Kickers. Left the Bose thumpers in. Removed the center speaker and replaced the factory unit with a Kenwood DNX890HD receiver (all from DD mods). What a difference! The stereo separation is great, the 2.5s are clearer. Very happy.

treydg2003

Thanks for all the input everyone! I think I'm gonna try and leave the factory amp for now and change the speakers. Also install the 10" sub to see how I like it. Then I'm sure I'll upgrade to a 4 channel amp for speakers. What's the best way to do this and keep factory nav and stereo?

treydg2003

Also any suggestions on a 4 channel amp that would fit where factory bose is located?

0Extreme Dimensions

I like the Alpine MRV-F300. I'm sure some people will argue this but it's compact and Alpine has always been incredibly reliable for me.