icntdrv55

I did a search on this thread for "cold start"…. Anyone know how many hits you get for those words? Too many.

So question: I know I've read on this forum somewhere that you can hold the accelerator to the floor while pushing "Start" to crank the engine without spark in order to pre-oil the journals and top end. Gonna go retrieve my '13 GS from winter storage. Before I try this, I want to make sure that'll work and NOT result in a WOT start…

EVRose

I've never done it but yes, thats what is supposed to happen. The computer wont allow a WOT start.

Bruze

I've done it on my '07 base. It would not fire.

KneeDragr

I tried it last year and it didnt fire up, it just sat there turning over until I took my foot off the gas. 2010 GS.

sevinn

If you're really worried about it you could pull the fuel pump relay and try to crank it like normal.

psp6158

Yep, 20 seconds does it, the engine will crank about five seconds when you push the button, my engine builder suggests three cycles to get the oil pressure up.

Hameister

That safety feature, to avoid WOT, has been around on fuel injected engines for as long as I can remember.

At least 25 years, probably more. Hold the go pedal firmly to the floor, and it won't start.


Just be careful not to crank so much that you kill your battery.

Two or three dozen spins is all ya need.

icntdrv55

Thanks, gents! Sunshine is out and the temps are gonna go into the 50s. Time to go see if it's still stored safely in the garage. Low battery shouldn't be an issue--it's on a Ctek maintainer.

Gearhead Jim

Has anyone done some tear-downs or other research to see if this really helps?

The parts are rotating/sliding whether the engine actually fires or not, and the loads imposed at idle (compared to just cranking over) are pretty small.
I've seen bearings removed from an engine that hadn't been started for a couple of years, and they still had a film of oil.

If you have an accusump or similar system that allows you to build pressure before rotating the engine, that would be better.

icntdrv55

Agreed, it's probably not necessary and maybe overkill as far as caution, but doesn't cost me a penny and is easy to do. I've always thought that the manufacturers could write code to the ECM that would either kill spark or fuel during cranking until the oil pressure was above 5 psi.

Of course, you might not appreciate that same code line when you're sitting in a cold parking lot at 10* F with a weak battery 20 miles from home ….

Hameister

Probably not necessary but makes me feel better

Sent from my Sony Z3

Gearhead Jim

The other question I should have asked is:
"How soon and how much oil pressure do you get from just cranking over with the starter for a few seconds?"

psp6158

Funny coincidence, I'm reading this thread and a commercial on TV comes on and says that wear and tear from cold starts causes the most motor damage, that their oil sticks to parts better than other brands which prevents damage. Now I know its a commercial but it is in line with my motor builder and brother in law who has been doing motor work for over 40 years, and both say to get the oil pressure up before firing...

RocketDawg

Fate says that you should immediately buy some of whatever oil is being advertised.

C6z06man

It won't start. It's considered clear flood mode. However I just start my car after winter. Has oil pressure faster than after doing an oil change. So, you're not causing any more wear than your basic(pretty much non existent) wear from changing the oil.

Don-Vette

I just start in like normal after winter storage. Everyone wants "Rocket Science".

EyeMaster

Just think of what's happening in whatever case. This will not change, they are constants.

1. You will be cranking the engine
2. The oil pump will be cranking as well
3. Oil will flow.

What's the difference between starting it up right away or doing dry cranking without starting it? Nothing.

icntdrv55

EM: Yeah, I get it. As I posted above, it's probably overkill, but doesn't cost me a cent and can't hurt anything as long as the battery is strong. And to your points above, I agree….up to a point. I would guess that spinning the engine freely with only the stress of compression on the bottom end is perhaps a bit less stress than the pressure generated by cylinder combustion. Plus the RPM while starting is certainly lower than the cold start surge to 1000-1200 RPM when firing. I do agree that to argue the relative merits of the procedure--or lack thereof--is a tempest in a teapot.

Judgebull

This is another one of those crazy things someone who had no idea what happens in a engine thought up. It's more wear on the starter than helps the engine. Mobile 1 is so sticky it would stay on the bearings for over a year easy. Give it up.

icntdrv55

Ummm….