Blow out with GY run flats.
10-11-2015, 11:04 AM
#1
Drifting
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Blow out with GY run flats.
It is a 2011 GS that came with Goodyear eagle F1 G2 (Generation 2) run flats. The car has 12,000 miles on it and I am down to the wear marks.
I must have run over a bolt or something. I heard a loud pop when the right rear tire picked it up, I heard the bang on the inside of the fender when it threw it off. The DIC came up and said right rear flat. I said thank god for run flats and drove home 12 miles keeping the speed limit of 45 MPH. Came home took the wheel of, too large of a hole to plug or patch. The tire is done, and thank god, it was worn off anyways.
This brings up a real dilemma. Since I am looking at the replacement tires, I have been monitoring the tire threads here and the discussions about run flats VS non run flats. I need to add that in almost 50 years of driving, this is my first blow out, and first time my need for a run flat feature. Yes, I had flats caused by screws and nails but those were slower leaks, all safe to slow down, stop, plug or patch.
What I decided is this. Michelin Super sport NON run flats. And here are my reason as to why. If I had non run flats yesterday, it was definitely a case for a flat bed. However a damage that big is a requirement for a brand new tire, run flat or non run flat. Except you have to pay lot more for a run flat. Suppose this happens on the HWY, you will hope that there is a big city within 100 miles where someone can fix/mount and demount a run flat. Driving just 12 miles on a flat was a PIA. Even here in south Florida only few places I trust. Some small town, you are out of luck or will end up with damaged wheels. Plus who stocks these tires?, you are equally in trouble with either kind. However most shops can fix normal non run flats.
Last but least $2000.00 VS, $1300,00, more comfortable ride and longer thread life, my decision is now solid. Pros and cons tell me that I am much better of to stick to non run flats and take my chances that a blow out like this will not occur for another 50 years. I have my stop and go pocket plug kit, compressor in the rear storage, also a set in my new DD Volvo S60 which does not even come with a spare (and they are non run flats). Just fixed a flat on that one (screw) on the side of a road in 10 minutes and kept on driving.
PS; I need one used right rear Goodyear Eagle F1 G2 in P325/30ZR19. The rest of the tires will give me another at least 1000 miles and that is for me at least another 6 months or more driving. Plus I do not drive in rain. Anyone has anything for sale?
I must have run over a bolt or something. I heard a loud pop when the right rear tire picked it up, I heard the bang on the inside of the fender when it threw it off. The DIC came up and said right rear flat. I said thank god for run flats and drove home 12 miles keeping the speed limit of 45 MPH. Came home took the wheel of, too large of a hole to plug or patch. The tire is done, and thank god, it was worn off anyways.
This brings up a real dilemma. Since I am looking at the replacement tires, I have been monitoring the tire threads here and the discussions about run flats VS non run flats. I need to add that in almost 50 years of driving, this is my first blow out, and first time my need for a run flat feature. Yes, I had flats caused by screws and nails but those were slower leaks, all safe to slow down, stop, plug or patch.
What I decided is this. Michelin Super sport NON run flats. And here are my reason as to why. If I had non run flats yesterday, it was definitely a case for a flat bed. However a damage that big is a requirement for a brand new tire, run flat or non run flat. Except you have to pay lot more for a run flat. Suppose this happens on the HWY, you will hope that there is a big city within 100 miles where someone can fix/mount and demount a run flat. Driving just 12 miles on a flat was a PIA. Even here in south Florida only few places I trust. Some small town, you are out of luck or will end up with damaged wheels. Plus who stocks these tires?, you are equally in trouble with either kind. However most shops can fix normal non run flats.
Last but least $2000.00 VS, $1300,00, more comfortable ride and longer thread life, my decision is now solid. Pros and cons tell me that I am much better of to stick to non run flats and take my chances that a blow out like this will not occur for another 50 years. I have my stop and go pocket plug kit, compressor in the rear storage, also a set in my new DD Volvo S60 which does not even come with a spare (and they are non run flats). Just fixed a flat on that one (screw) on the side of a road in 10 minutes and kept on driving.
PS; I need one used right rear Goodyear Eagle F1 G2 in P325/30ZR19. The rest of the tires will give me another at least 1000 miles and that is for me at least another 6 months or more driving. Plus I do not drive in rain. Anyone has anything for sale?
10-11-2015, 11:13 AM
#2
Team Owner
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I have had both RF and non Rf. Never had a blowout or even a flat with the non RF tires (3 sets).
I was at a casino one day and some as shat let the air out of all 4 tires. Thank goodness they were run flats. Drove 7 or 8 miles to first station with air. Never leaked any air out so somebody had to have let it out.
Back to PS AS RF now and like them.
I was at a casino one day and some as shat let the air out of all 4 tires. Thank goodness they were run flats. Drove 7 or 8 miles to first station with air. Never leaked any air out so somebody had to have let it out.
Back to PS AS RF now and like them.
10-11-2015, 11:13 AM
#3
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Sounds like you've convinced yourself on the tires that will do the job for you! I say "go for it"!~
10-11-2015, 11:19 AM
#5
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IMO, anytime one drives on tires that are on the wear marks, trouble usually follows. Tires will not have the traction required, are getting to the point of getting dangerous for a blowout, and if you get "caught" in a rain storm, then it's like driving on an ice skating rink.
You are right that a blowout is very rare on today's tires.
I can't believe that you would be looking for one tire to try to get another 1000 miles on the other 3 marginal tires at best.
On my original OEM GY runflats, at 4/32" thread depth, the tires were getting very getting dangerous traction wise, even in modest rain.
I replaced them with Firestone Non Runflats, changed those out at 4/32" thread depth due to road noise, although they were still OK on roads with standing rain.
You are right that a blowout is very rare on today's tires.
I can't believe that you would be looking for one tire to try to get another 1000 miles on the other 3 marginal tires at best.
On my original OEM GY runflats, at 4/32" thread depth, the tires were getting very getting dangerous traction wise, even in modest rain.
I replaced them with Firestone Non Runflats, changed those out at 4/32" thread depth due to road noise, although they were still OK on roads with standing rain.
10-11-2015, 11:56 AM
#6
It is a 2011 GS that came with Goodyear eagle F1 G2 (Generation 2) run flats. The car has 12,000 miles on it and I am down to the wear marks.
I must have run over a bolt or something. I heard a loud pop when the right rear tire picked it up, I heard the bang on the inside of the fender when it threw it off. The DIC came up and said right rear flat. I said thank god for run flats and drove home 12 miles keeping the speed limit of 45 MPH. Came home took the wheel of, too large of a hole to plug or patch. The tire is done, and thank god, it was worn off anyways.
This brings up a real dilemma. Since I am looking at the replacement tires, I have been monitoring the tire threads here and the discussions about run flats VS non run flats. I need to add that in almost 50 years of driving, this is my first blow out, and first time my need for a run flat feature. Yes, I had flats caused by screws and nails but those were slower leaks, all safe to slow down, stop, plug or patch.
What I decided is this. Michelin Super sport NON run flats. And here are my reason as to why. If I had non run flats yesterday, it was definitely a case for a flat bed. However a damage that big is a requirement for a brand new tire, run flat or non run flat. Except you have to pay lot more for a run flat. Suppose this happens on the HWY, you will hope that there is a big city within 100 miles where someone can fix/mount and demount a run flat. Driving just 12 miles on a flat was a PIA. Even here in south Florida only few places I trust. Some small town, you are out of luck or will end up with damaged wheels. Plus who stocks these tires?, you are equally in trouble with either kind. However most shops can fix normal non run flats.
Last but least $2000.00 VS, $1300,00, more comfortable ride and longer thread life, my decision is now solid. Pros and cons tell me that I am much better of to stick to non run flats and take my chances that a blow out like this will not occur for another 50 years. I have my stop and go pocket plug kit, compressor in the rear storage, also a set in my new DD Volvo S60 which does not even come with a spare (and they are non run flats). Just fixed a flat on that one (screw) on the side of a road in 10 minutes and kept on driving.
PS; I need one used right rear Goodyear Eagle F1 G2 in P325/30ZR19. The rest of the tires will give me another at least 1000 miles and that is for me at least another 6 months or more driving. Plus I do not drive in rain. Anyone has anything for sale?
I must have run over a bolt or something. I heard a loud pop when the right rear tire picked it up, I heard the bang on the inside of the fender when it threw it off. The DIC came up and said right rear flat. I said thank god for run flats and drove home 12 miles keeping the speed limit of 45 MPH. Came home took the wheel of, too large of a hole to plug or patch. The tire is done, and thank god, it was worn off anyways.
This brings up a real dilemma. Since I am looking at the replacement tires, I have been monitoring the tire threads here and the discussions about run flats VS non run flats. I need to add that in almost 50 years of driving, this is my first blow out, and first time my need for a run flat feature. Yes, I had flats caused by screws and nails but those were slower leaks, all safe to slow down, stop, plug or patch.
What I decided is this. Michelin Super sport NON run flats. And here are my reason as to why. If I had non run flats yesterday, it was definitely a case for a flat bed. However a damage that big is a requirement for a brand new tire, run flat or non run flat. Except you have to pay lot more for a run flat. Suppose this happens on the HWY, you will hope that there is a big city within 100 miles where someone can fix/mount and demount a run flat. Driving just 12 miles on a flat was a PIA. Even here in south Florida only few places I trust. Some small town, you are out of luck or will end up with damaged wheels. Plus who stocks these tires?, you are equally in trouble with either kind. However most shops can fix normal non run flats.
Last but least $2000.00 VS, $1300,00, more comfortable ride and longer thread life, my decision is now solid. Pros and cons tell me that I am much better of to stick to non run flats and take my chances that a blow out like this will not occur for another 50 years. I have my stop and go pocket plug kit, compressor in the rear storage, also a set in my new DD Volvo S60 which does not even come with a spare (and they are non run flats). Just fixed a flat on that one (screw) on the side of a road in 10 minutes and kept on driving.
PS; I need one used right rear Goodyear Eagle F1 G2 in P325/30ZR19. The rest of the tires will give me another at least 1000 miles and that is for me at least another 6 months or more driving. Plus I do not drive in rain. Anyone has anything for sale?
Can't believe that you are going to attempt driving another 6 months on those worn out tires. IMO you are also making a poor choice in replacement tires, but your decision is solid.
GOOD LUCK because you will definitely need it!
10-11-2015, 12:20 PM
#7
Drifting
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we too have a 2011 GS. as soon as we could , we replaced the stock with Nitto Invo's... much smoother and quieter ride! Now that Cooper has new tires that others have tried, when we wear these out , we will put Coopers on.
If you go non-runflat (heck even runflats too i guess) , get you something that will inflate a large leak faster than it would leak out (excluding a HUGE hole). Any thing else for minor repairs in order to get you down the road some distance, even if you have to air it every 20 miles. Here is the best i have found for compressors that will fit the cubbys in the back...
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-c6-cubby.html
Cooper Zeon RS3-S (non runflat) , example of some prices, example only..
https://www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#t...+325%2F30%2F19
some reviews...
http://www.roadandtrack.com/new-cars...mmer-rubber-1/
http://www.superstreetonline.com/how...re-zeon-rs3-s/
http://www.motortrend.com/features/c...ires_zeon_rs3/
http://www.windingroad.com/articles/...3-s-and-rs3-a/
If you go non-runflat (heck even runflats too i guess) , get you something that will inflate a large leak faster than it would leak out (excluding a HUGE hole). Any thing else for minor repairs in order to get you down the road some distance, even if you have to air it every 20 miles. Here is the best i have found for compressors that will fit the cubbys in the back...
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-c6-cubby.html
Cooper Zeon RS3-S (non runflat) , example of some prices, example only..
https://www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#t...+325%2F30%2F19
some reviews...
http://www.roadandtrack.com/new-cars...mmer-rubber-1/
http://www.superstreetonline.com/how...re-zeon-rs3-s/
http://www.motortrend.com/features/c...ires_zeon_rs3/
http://www.windingroad.com/articles/...3-s-and-rs3-a/
10-11-2015, 12:49 PM
#8
Drifting
Picture loading a Corvette on a rollback with a flat tire. A run flat will roll a flat non fun flat is really flat. You have a blowout with a non run flat and you can do a lot of damage just getting off the road.
10-11-2015, 04:48 PM
#9
Drifting
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Thank you for all you have chimed in, good or bad.
The moral of the story was, a man who has a blow out with a run flat who decides on non run flats instead of saying thank GOD I had run flats.
I decided that the blow out on either will strand you equally, one 100 miles from the location, that is the only difference is that the latter is more problematic, more expensive. It is like a twin engine airplane twice the cost and fuel burn and it only takes you to the scene of the crash. Even here in FL no one wants to touch RF's. Very hard to get on and off. Doing the math getting a blow out seems to have the same odds of being hit by a lightening. 35 years of driving, 17 new cars, including 3 corvettes, first one. I do not know how many miles, got to be over million. However I would definitely would be more comfortable with my wife or a girl friend in run flats. Luckily I am a bachelor.
Few general answers as some did not read my post well, I do not drive in rain. Threads are only for the rain, a tire without any threads gets more traction in the hot and dry and I live in FL and take the car to the track once a month for some fun. That is why racing tires are slicks. Many years back we used to shave tires.
Secondly, yes the tire in my Volvo was properly patched afterwards but at my convenience not some wrench monkey. However all take a breath, decided to buy all 4 Michelin's from Costco (installed $1500) as any money spent on the single one will be a waste and all available have good thread left in them. I wanted a matching set which also mirrors my head.
Now I have to break in the new shoes, they will be wiggly and noisy because of all that thread, not really settle in until 4000-5000 miles, pick and throw lot of pebbles, even screws, that is a more than few years of driving for me. However It is what it is. Chit happens.
The moral of the story was, a man who has a blow out with a run flat who decides on non run flats instead of saying thank GOD I had run flats.
I decided that the blow out on either will strand you equally, one 100 miles from the location, that is the only difference is that the latter is more problematic, more expensive. It is like a twin engine airplane twice the cost and fuel burn and it only takes you to the scene of the crash. Even here in FL no one wants to touch RF's. Very hard to get on and off. Doing the math getting a blow out seems to have the same odds of being hit by a lightening. 35 years of driving, 17 new cars, including 3 corvettes, first one. I do not know how many miles, got to be over million. However I would definitely would be more comfortable with my wife or a girl friend in run flats. Luckily I am a bachelor.
Few general answers as some did not read my post well, I do not drive in rain. Threads are only for the rain, a tire without any threads gets more traction in the hot and dry and I live in FL and take the car to the track once a month for some fun. That is why racing tires are slicks. Many years back we used to shave tires.
Secondly, yes the tire in my Volvo was properly patched afterwards but at my convenience not some wrench monkey. However all take a breath, decided to buy all 4 Michelin's from Costco (installed $1500) as any money spent on the single one will be a waste and all available have good thread left in them. I wanted a matching set which also mirrors my head.
Now I have to break in the new shoes, they will be wiggly and noisy because of all that thread, not really settle in until 4000-5000 miles, pick and throw lot of pebbles, even screws, that is a more than few years of driving for me. However It is what it is. Chit happens.
10-11-2015, 05:55 PM
#10
I just shake my head when these threads come up.
Usually, it's the guys who have never actually been a situation where they would have been stranded if the tire blew, and those others, who have never actually watched how difficult it is to load a C6 onto a flatbed, who chime in and say they see no reason to replace the OEM tires with run flats. They tossed that coin and it's come up heads for the last X years, so therefore it will always come up heads. This is the first time I have ever heard of someone who tossed a tail and said it's got to come up heads from now on.
Run flats have come a long way since they were first produced for the Vette, and Goodyear hasn't been leading the way, BTW. Anyone who judges RFs by the Goodyear RunCraps just hasn't experienced Michelin or Bridgestone RFs.
Perhaps my opinion is biased; I have been in a position twice where a sidewall blowout would have resulted in a tow if not for RFs. One of which would have left me dangerously stranded, the other just very inconvenienced, to say nothing of the possible damage which might occur during the tows.
Usually, it's the guys who have never actually been a situation where they would have been stranded if the tire blew, and those others, who have never actually watched how difficult it is to load a C6 onto a flatbed, who chime in and say they see no reason to replace the OEM tires with run flats. They tossed that coin and it's come up heads for the last X years, so therefore it will always come up heads. This is the first time I have ever heard of someone who tossed a tail and said it's got to come up heads from now on.
Run flats have come a long way since they were first produced for the Vette, and Goodyear hasn't been leading the way, BTW. Anyone who judges RFs by the Goodyear RunCraps just hasn't experienced Michelin or Bridgestone RFs.
Perhaps my opinion is biased; I have been in a position twice where a sidewall blowout would have resulted in a tow if not for RFs. One of which would have left me dangerously stranded, the other just very inconvenienced, to say nothing of the possible damage which might occur during the tows.
10-11-2015, 07:54 PM
#11
The grooves in a tire are called "tread", not "threads".
The state of Florida Motor Vehicle Code requires that
your tires should have visible tread of at least 2/32 of an inch across the base with no worn spots showing the ply.
The state of Florida Motor Vehicle Code requires that
your tires should have visible tread of at least 2/32 of an inch across the base with no worn spots showing the ply.
10-11-2015, 11:37 PM
#12
Burning Brakes
Discount Tires will change Run Flats ( and patch them ) all day long
Aren't they like Starbucks? On every block? In FLA?
Wow - just wow about the tire traction statement. Not going to touch that one
coefficient of friction and all - LOL
Aren't they like Starbucks? On every block? In FLA?
Wow - just wow about the tire traction statement. Not going to touch that one
coefficient of friction and all - LOL
10-12-2015, 01:45 AM
#13
Burning Brakes
Before you actually buy your new tires you may want to think about this. You were driving the car and had a tire that lost air but I doubt that you felt a handling difference. Once you switch to non-run flats I pray you never have an actual blow out because there will be a handling issue.
This is from personal experience having had an actual sudden total loss of air in a rear tire for me. Lucky for me at the time going freeway speeds I was already in the right lane when the car decided to go to the right on its' own. I was able to get the car slowed and stopped safely but only because the right edge of the road was clear of obstacles.
Picture yourself at speed and having it happen on a front wheel. Not a pretty picture.
The decision is yours to make.
By the way I had a tire go down, zero pressure, on my Grand Sport, and except for the warning on the dash I never would have known. As far as I'm concerned they are just another form of insurance and a heck of a lot less than the cost of repairs after a non-run flat tire issue.
This is from personal experience having had an actual sudden total loss of air in a rear tire for me. Lucky for me at the time going freeway speeds I was already in the right lane when the car decided to go to the right on its' own. I was able to get the car slowed and stopped safely but only because the right edge of the road was clear of obstacles.
Picture yourself at speed and having it happen on a front wheel. Not a pretty picture.
The decision is yours to make.
By the way I had a tire go down, zero pressure, on my Grand Sport, and except for the warning on the dash I never would have known. As far as I'm concerned they are just another form of insurance and a heck of a lot less than the cost of repairs after a non-run flat tire issue.
10-12-2015, 06:44 AM
#14
Safety Car
Thank you for all you have chimed in, good or bad.
The moral of the story was, a man who has a blow out with a run flat who decides on non run flats instead of saying thank GOD I had run flats.
I decided that the blow out on either will strand you equally, one 100 miles from the location, that is the only difference is that the latter is more problematic, more expensive. It is like a twin engine airplane twice the cost and fuel burn and it only takes you to the scene of the crash. Even here in FL no one wants to touch RF's. Very hard to get on and off. Doing the math getting a blow out seems to have the same odds of being hit by a lightening. 35 years of driving, 17 new cars, including 3 corvettes, first one. I do not know how many miles, got to be over million. However I would definitely would be more comfortable with my wife or a girl friend in run flats. Luckily I am a bachelor.
Few general answers as some did not read my post well, I do not drive in rain. Threads are only for the rain, a tire without any threads gets more traction in the hot and dry and I live in FL and take the car to the track once a month for some fun. That is why racing tires are slicks. Many years back we used to shave tires.
Secondly, yes the tire in my Volvo was properly patched afterwards but at my convenience not some wrench monkey. However all take a breath, decided to buy all 4 Michelin's from Costco (installed $1500) as any money spent on the single one will be a waste and all available have good thread left in them. I wanted a matching set which also mirrors my head.
Now I have to break in the new shoes, they will be wiggly and noisy because of all that thread, not really settle in until 4000-5000 miles, pick and throw lot of pebbles, even screws, that is a more than few years of driving for me. However It is what it is. Chit happens.
The moral of the story was, a man who has a blow out with a run flat who decides on non run flats instead of saying thank GOD I had run flats.
I decided that the blow out on either will strand you equally, one 100 miles from the location, that is the only difference is that the latter is more problematic, more expensive. It is like a twin engine airplane twice the cost and fuel burn and it only takes you to the scene of the crash. Even here in FL no one wants to touch RF's. Very hard to get on and off. Doing the math getting a blow out seems to have the same odds of being hit by a lightening. 35 years of driving, 17 new cars, including 3 corvettes, first one. I do not know how many miles, got to be over million. However I would definitely would be more comfortable with my wife or a girl friend in run flats. Luckily I am a bachelor.
Few general answers as some did not read my post well, I do not drive in rain. Threads are only for the rain, a tire without any threads gets more traction in the hot and dry and I live in FL and take the car to the track once a month for some fun. That is why racing tires are slicks. Many years back we used to shave tires.
Secondly, yes the tire in my Volvo was properly patched afterwards but at my convenience not some wrench monkey. However all take a breath, decided to buy all 4 Michelin's from Costco (installed $1500) as any money spent on the single one will be a waste and all available have good thread left in them. I wanted a matching set which also mirrors my head.
Now I have to break in the new shoes, they will be wiggly and noisy because of all that thread, not really settle in until 4000-5000 miles, pick and throw lot of pebbles, even screws, that is a more than few years of driving for me. However It is what it is. Chit happens.
You can't go wrong with Michelin's, but I'm on my 2nd set of Bridgestone Potenza RF's on my 2011 GS, and I'm nearing 30k miles --and still have plenty of tread left. They still hold very well in hard FL rains, they hold well on dry from 20 degrees in WV to the 100 degrees days here in FL, and I will probably go with a 3rd set when these finally wear out. I only paid about $1,200 installed for them too, at Discount Tire. I'm a daily driver with headers and a tune, and I seem to romp it every day.
As many have said above, most all of the tire brands and styles (except the OEM Goodyears) seem to have a very loyal following, probably because if you try them and like them, you stay with what you like.
10-12-2015, 09:25 AM
#15
Racer
Recently replaced all four with GY RF when I picked up a bolt and the tire couldn't be repaired. What factored into my decision was the amount of metal on the road from truck tires. Trucks seem to deposit the stuff just where you can't dodge it. RF's seemed to be a no brainer 2 me.
10-12-2015, 10:44 AM
#16
Before you actually buy your new tires you may want to think about this. You were driving the car and had a tire that lost air but I doubt that you felt a handling difference. Once you switch to non-run flats I pray you never have an actual blow out because there will be a handling issue.
This is from personal experience having had an actual sudden total loss of air in a rear tire for me. Lucky for me at the time going freeway speeds I was already in the right lane when the car decided to go to the right on its' own. I was able to get the car slowed and stopped safely but only because the right edge of the road was clear of obstacles.
Picture yourself at speed and having it happen on a front wheel. Not a pretty picture.
The decision is yours to make.
By the way I had a tire go down, zero pressure, on my Grand Sport, and except for the warning on the dash I never would have known. As far as I'm concerned they are just another form of insurance and a heck of a lot less than the cost of repairs after a non-run flat tire issue.
This is from personal experience having had an actual sudden total loss of air in a rear tire for me. Lucky for me at the time going freeway speeds I was already in the right lane when the car decided to go to the right on its' own. I was able to get the car slowed and stopped safely but only because the right edge of the road was clear of obstacles.
Picture yourself at speed and having it happen on a front wheel. Not a pretty picture.
The decision is yours to make.
By the way I had a tire go down, zero pressure, on my Grand Sport, and except for the warning on the dash I never would have known. As far as I'm concerned they are just another form of insurance and a heck of a lot less than the cost of repairs after a non-run flat tire issue.
10-12-2015, 12:21 PM
#17
Race Director
I love my Michelin run flat tires. I would not want to drive my Corvette without run flats. I work on an army base, and if I had a flat on base, my wife would not be able to come and pick me up.
That said, you had a flat. You did not have a blowout. And congrats on the timing, since you needed new tires anyhow.
That said, you had a flat. You did not have a blowout. And congrats on the timing, since you needed new tires anyhow.
10-12-2015, 01:11 PM
#18
Burning Brakes
Member Since: Apr 2007
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Before you actually buy your new tires you may want to think about this. You were driving the car and had a tire that lost air but I doubt that you felt a handling difference. Once you switch to non-run flats I pray you never have an actual blow out because there will be a handling issue.
This is from personal experience having had an actual sudden total loss of air in a rear tire for me. Lucky for me at the time going freeway speeds I was already in the right lane when the car decided to go to the right on its' own. I was able to get the car slowed and stopped safely but only because the right edge of the road was clear of obstacles.
Picture yourself at speed and having it happen on a front wheel. Not a pretty picture.
The decision is yours to make.
By the way I had a tire go down, zero pressure, on my Grand Sport, and except for the warning on the dash I never would have known. As far as I'm concerned they are just another form of insurance and a heck of a lot less than the cost of repairs after a non-run flat tire issue.
This is from personal experience having had an actual sudden total loss of air in a rear tire for me. Lucky for me at the time going freeway speeds I was already in the right lane when the car decided to go to the right on its' own. I was able to get the car slowed and stopped safely but only because the right edge of the road was clear of obstacles.
Picture yourself at speed and having it happen on a front wheel. Not a pretty picture.
The decision is yours to make.
By the way I had a tire go down, zero pressure, on my Grand Sport, and except for the warning on the dash I never would have known. As far as I'm concerned they are just another form of insurance and a heck of a lot less than the cost of repairs after a non-run flat tire issue.
Don't forget, if you do have a tire go flat/blowout while driving, chances are with non RF, the tire may shift off the rim and cause rim damage too since the rim will now impact the ground. Just a thought as well, If your car is lowered it may impact your car (splitter or airdam) with it dropping down almost to the rim. Piece of mind for me I guess.
10-12-2015, 01:20 PM
#19
Le Mans Master
If you wouldn't have had Run Flats, you likely would not have had a blow out by just running over a bolt.
Run flats are expensive, hard to work on, heavy, offer poor performance, loud/ harsh, and are more prone to failure. Better to spend the money on a compressor and sealant kit (I bought one at walmart that fits perfectly in to the hatch storage compartment) and maybe an AAA membership with towing services and run proper tires.
~take care
Run flats are expensive, hard to work on, heavy, offer poor performance, loud/ harsh, and are more prone to failure. Better to spend the money on a compressor and sealant kit (I bought one at walmart that fits perfectly in to the hatch storage compartment) and maybe an AAA membership with towing services and run proper tires.
~take care
10-12-2015, 01:34 PM
#20
Drifting
If you wouldn't have had Run Flats, you likely would not have had a blow out by just running over a bolt.
Run flats are expensive, hard to work on, heavy, offer poor performance, loud/ harsh, and are more prone to failure. Better to spend the money on a compressor and sealant kit (I bought one at walmart that fits perfectly in to the hatch storage compartment) and maybe an AAA membership with towing services and run proper tires.
~take care
Run flats are expensive, hard to work on, heavy, offer poor performance, loud/ harsh, and are more prone to failure. Better to spend the money on a compressor and sealant kit (I bought one at walmart that fits perfectly in to the hatch storage compartment) and maybe an AAA membership with towing services and run proper tires.
~take care