C6 console aux power failure
11-20-2015, 04:02 PM
#1
Heel & Toe
Thread Starter
C6 console aux power failure
Hi my 2007 C6 console aux power stopped suddenly after the power cord to my iPhone charger broke. I checked the LTR and AUX Power fuses and they are good (20a). The Lighter works. The aux outlet is dead. Any ideas? I read about a removal tool, upon which I could check the wires in the back. I tried grounding to the inside of the cylinder and then point touch the end center but no light. Miffed. 
11-21-2015, 11:31 PM
#2
Race Car Tech
Have you lifted the console to check that the connector is still plugged into the aux power socket? it may of popped out, but it seems unlikely because they clip in pretty good. Maybe a broken wire under the radio surround console.
The only fuse is the 20A Aux PWR fuse that you already checked. Since the Cigar lighter plug works, the Cig Fuse is OK, therefore the Fuse 33 upstream that feeds those 2 circuits + the hatch release must be OK.
Good Luck
The only fuse is the 20A Aux PWR fuse that you already checked. Since the Cigar lighter plug works, the Cig Fuse is OK, therefore the Fuse 33 upstream that feeds those 2 circuits + the hatch release must be OK.
Good Luck
Last edited by 4SUMERZ; 11-21-2015 at 11:38 PM.
The following users liked this post:
rkahn (11-22-2015)
12-07-2015, 11:20 AM
#3
Heel & Toe
Thread Starter
Strange that the cigar lighter and aux power lines are dead but fuses alive
Have you lifted the console to check that the connector is still plugged into the aux power socket? it may of popped out, but it seems unlikely because they clip in pretty good. Maybe a broken wire under the radio surround console.
The only fuse is the 20A Aux PWR fuse that you already checked. Since the Cigar lighter plug works, the Cig Fuse is OK, therefore the Fuse 33 upstream that feeds those 2 circuits + the hatch release must be OK.
Good Luck
The only fuse is the 20A Aux PWR fuse that you already checked. Since the Cigar lighter plug works, the Cig Fuse is OK, therefore the Fuse 33 upstream that feeds those 2 circuits + the hatch release must be OK.
Good Luck
12-07-2015, 11:21 AM
#4
Race Car Tech
12-07-2015, 12:35 PM
#6
Melting Slicks
The sockets do go bad.
Check the voltage at the socket, and I believe they are hot all the time. My cig socket was bad and had to replace it. The PO may have been using it to run some heavily drawing current like a air compressor.
I bought this tool to make easier to change out.
Check the voltage at the socket, and I believe they are hot all the time. My cig socket was bad and had to replace it. The PO may have been using it to run some heavily drawing current like a air compressor.
I bought this tool to make easier to change out.
12-08-2015, 04:15 PM
#7
Heel & Toe
Thread Starter
Well thanks for the experienced replies. I've identified the problems and fixed in part. Here's the summary. First, I wasn't checking BOTH pins of the fuses. I only checked one and it turns out that the one I checked was receiving power from the upline. So upline was giving power. Second, I reviewed the electric schematic which showed that the two plug lines go directly to the fuse box, not relays in between. My visual inspection of the fuses prior didn't reveal the beak because there was a tiny fogging of the plastic due to the burn and the break was very slight, so I missed it visually on both fuses. So I knew it had something to do with the lines. Third. I put the meter on the CIG LIGHTER and realize it has an intermittent short, so I purchased a new plug for that one. Fourth. I took off the console and realized that the prior owner had spliced the AUX POWER line and it was faulty. So I redid the splice adding a bit so the console comes up and out easier.
Problem resolved.
Also, I had some issues of the automatic shifter not wanting to come out of Park with the negative off the battery so I drilled a hole in the vertical arm that prevents the shifter from releasing and attached 150 pund test fishing line (which wants to stay straight but has give under tension) and drilled a small hole in the forward section of the console to route it through. Then I tied a multiple knot, heated it to stay closed. Now I have a little release I can pull at any time to move the shifter and it returns to its position and operates normally when the shifter is put in park.
MANY THANKS for the help. I also bought the tool recommended. And I rechecked the fuses as recommended.
Problem resolved.
Also, I had some issues of the automatic shifter not wanting to come out of Park with the negative off the battery so I drilled a hole in the vertical arm that prevents the shifter from releasing and attached 150 pund test fishing line (which wants to stay straight but has give under tension) and drilled a small hole in the forward section of the console to route it through. Then I tied a multiple knot, heated it to stay closed. Now I have a little release I can pull at any time to move the shifter and it returns to its position and operates normally when the shifter is put in park.
MANY THANKS for the help. I also bought the tool recommended. And I rechecked the fuses as recommended.
12-08-2015, 06:13 PM
#8
Race Car Tech
Well thanks for the experienced replies. I've identified the problems and fixed in part. Here's the summary. First, I wasn't checking BOTH pins of the fuses. I only checked one and it turns out that the one I checked was receiving power from the upline. So upline was giving power. Second, I reviewed the electric schematic which showed that the two plug lines go directly to the fuse box, not relays in between. My visual inspection of the fuses prior didn't reveal the beak because there was a tiny fogging of the plastic due to the burn and the break was very slight, so I missed it visually on both fuses. So I knew it had something to do with the lines. Third. I put the meter on the CIG LIGHTER and realize it has an intermittent short, so I purchased a new plug for that one. Fourth. I took off the console and realized that the prior owner had spliced the AUX POWER line and it was faulty. So I redid the splice adding a bit so the console comes up and out easier.
Problem resolved.
Also, I had some issues of the automatic shifter not wanting to come out of Park with the negative off the battery so I drilled a hole in the vertical arm that prevents the shifter from releasing and attached 150 pund test fishing line (which wants to stay straight but has give under tension) and drilled a small hole in the forward section of the console to route it through. Then I tied a multiple knot, heated it to stay closed. Now I have a little release I can pull at any time to move the shifter and it returns to its position and operates normally when the shifter is put in park.
MANY THANKS for the help. I also bought the tool recommended. And I rechecked the fuses as recommended.
Problem resolved.
Also, I had some issues of the automatic shifter not wanting to come out of Park with the negative off the battery so I drilled a hole in the vertical arm that prevents the shifter from releasing and attached 150 pund test fishing line (which wants to stay straight but has give under tension) and drilled a small hole in the forward section of the console to route it through. Then I tied a multiple knot, heated it to stay closed. Now I have a little release I can pull at any time to move the shifter and it returns to its position and operates normally when the shifter is put in park.
MANY THANKS for the help. I also bought the tool recommended. And I rechecked the fuses as recommended.
Congrats
