Rogers 07

Well, It finally broke. After 130,000+ miles I had to get my car towed because of a part failure. I had just pulled into a dinner to get lunch, went to shift into Park and.... Nothing, The shifter just moved from D to P without moving the Transmission into park (Essentially it was stuck in D) So I just turned the engine of and called the tow truck!. When I got it home, a quick inspection proved the cable was indeed broken as the shift lever arm in the transmission worked fine and of course the cable link to the shift arm appeared to be in good condition (Meaning it was the end that attaches to the shifter itself that failed.. Of course !) Looking on line, I found a new GM Replacement cable for only $39.00 so that was good. Knowing it was going to be a PITA to change it, Here are the steps needed to change the cable.
1. Disassemble and remove the center console.
2. Unbolt and remove the shifter assembly (Only for 10 mm nuts)
3. Jack-up the car and secure with jack stands or (use a Lift)
4. Remove the exhaust center pipe (H pipe) section.
5. (Optional) put it really helps with access to the cable attachment point behind the shifter...Remove the torque tube cover, All the bolts have to come out and it seems like a thousand of then are in there!
6. Pry the cable connection of the transmission end shift arm (It just snaps on and off)
7. Remove the cable from the shifter, In my case it had already broken off at the shifter cable connection. It just snaps on and off just like the transmission arm end.
8. There is a cable retaining bracket that holds the shifter end of the cable about 6 inches behind the shifter attached to the tunnel. You have to push the cable up at the bracket to get it come out of the bracket (This is no fun as there is not a lot of room to reach up there.)
9. The transmission arm end of the cable is retained by another bracket bolted to the transmission, to remove it, there are two tabs you squeeze inward on the cable and it allows the cable to slide out of the bracket.
10. Once both ends are free of the retaining brackets, the cable can be removed from either end just by pulling it and guiding it out.
NOW for the fun part!!
11. Install the new cable into the tunnel and route it up where the old cable went. I recommend connecting the shifter end of the cable into the tunnel bracket first.
12. The cable can only be installed into the tunnel bracket in one position (Or orientation) , the cable must be guided up over the tunnel bracket, them pulled down into the bracket so that the cables retaining slot is fully engaged in the bracket. (Make sure it is in the right position or the shifter will not work properly !!!)
13, Install the other end of the cable into the transmission bracket, again make sure the two retaining tabs are fully engaged as you push/Pull the cable thru the bracket, (Again this end only goes in, in one position as there is a locating tab that must be correctly oriented in the bracket as well !! Were talking fun here !!
14. At this point Make double sure both ends of the cable are properly installed in there respective retaining brackets!! Repeat this step as often as need until you are 100% positive they are installed correctly!!
15. NOW reinstall the shifter and reconnect the wires connections that got to it.
16. Snap the shifter end of the cable onto the shifter pin, This can be done as you're installing the shifter in to the tunnel or from underneath if you removed the torque tube cover.
16. If all is going well, turn on the ignition, but don't start the engine (You don't have the exhaust hooked up yet). Push the brake pedal and you should hear the shift solenoid "Click" when you hear it, Move the shifter in to the Neutral position.
17. Before you hook up the Transmission arm end of the shift cable, Make sure the transmission is in the neutral position. To do this move the Transmission arm towards the rear of the car as far as it will go, it will stop clicking as it moves past the internal detents. At this point move the arm towards the front of the car two positions or "clicks"
18. You are now ready to attach the cable to the transmission shift arm. Again before you do it, verify both the shifter and the transmission are in the neutral positions.
19. The new cable comes with an adjustable link at the transmission end. To make sure the cable is properly adjusted, there is adjustment "tab" on the end that must removed after you have snapped the transmission end of the cable onto the transmission shift arm.
20, Before removing the adjusting tab, once again verify both the shifter and the trans are in neutral !!
21. At this point you can remove the tab from the cable end link. (It just pops off with a screwdriver) then once if the tab is off, the adjustment securing lock is then pushed flush with the cable end link, this locks the end link in position with the cable and ensures proper adjustment.
22. With the car still jacked up, and nothing touching the rear wheels, I put the shifter into P and started the car up (Still no Exhaust) then moved the shifter thru each position to verify proper transmission adjustment. If all works as it should, then you can reassemble everything you removed in the earlier steps.
23. If it does not work as it should. (See step 14 above) Recheck the cable brackets, one end or both may not be fully seated or correctly positioned. (Remember this is a PITA) but it is critical to proper shifting of the transmission!) When you are certain all is working correctly, reassemble the rest of the parts you removed!

This is not something to be attempted by the faint of heart or if you'r not very mechanically inclined then by all means have it done by a professional !

On the other hand it only cost me $60 for the tow truck , $40.00 in parts and about 5 hrs of time to do the job in my garage.

Mark H

Nice write up!! I'm at 125,000 miles,so I'm afraid that I will be referring to it somewhere down the road.

Dutch08

wayback

Good write up. Hope I never need to refer to it.
166,000 miles so far with no problems.

One thing I feel hastens the demise of the cable is when you shut the car off but never get out. Like at a drive through or ATM. If you keep your foot on the brake all the time it is hard to shift out of park. I always release the brake so the built up forward pressure is released and it shifts easily into gear.

Bruze

Dittoes to all the above, but at 28,000 I'll probably be in a wheelchair, senile, or dead before I have to deal with this.

But, one never knows.

FWIW: That's a good price for the cable, and surprising considering it's a Vette and all. I had to buy one for my 2011 Toyota pickup and it was over $200 with tax.

unclecookie

Thanks for the excellent write up. Recently I thought I was going to have to replace my cable as it was acting strange. After raising the car I found that the securing lock on the transmission end link was not pushed in all the way, and allowing the cable to move without moving the lever. I believe it was left that way when the dealer replaced my fuel tank and fuel pump as I understand that the transmission had to be removed to access the fuel tank. I bought a replacement shifter cable before I realized what the problem was. But if I ever do need to replace it, at least I will already have the cable on hand

1bdvet

Good write-up, thanks!

GOLD72

Great write up!! My front shift cable grommet failed a few months ago at 41k miles. I just replaced the plastic grommet for $5 from an Autozone kit. It is done entirely from inside the car without all of the disassembly needed to do the entire cable.

Bat66

I had to replace the rear grommet last month, luckily mind broke when I pulled into the garage. Auto Zone part # 41041

Kenny94945

Thank you.
DIY with tips is well written.

Rogers 07

Yup, When mine broke I was praying it was the rear clip, No such luck

Spark 2

I've read this post and several previous posts.

Lots of great information!

The only thing that I question is whether to use Dorman Kit #14041,

or Dorman Kit #14055?

I've seen both numbers mentioned and like all forum members, I'd like

to do the best in this situation.

Thanks in advance for your opinions.

Spark 2

HOXXOH

Thanks for the great "how-to". I'm printing a copy for my file, since I just passed 130K myself.

BTW, were there any warning signs before if broke, such as not quite in gear according to the console marks or detent feeling?

Gering

cleif2000

Great write up.

GOLD72

I bought both of these specific kit numbers at AutoZone. One of the kits is specific to GM and the other kit has multiple grommets of which only one in that kit fits the vette. Either kit will work. You might find my posting back in December where I mentioned the two different kit numbers.

SEE POST #4:
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...le-repair.html

Spark 2

Thank you for your reply!

Enterprisehunter

Mine broke at 56,000 miles. Under warranty 30 days after I bought the car. Thanks for the great write up.

windyC6

For those of us that think that our cable will out live us.....i've heard stories of them going bad long before they should just as a couple of post have mentioned.....one at 41-K....and another at 56-K. Just our luck......thank ya GM....

Rogers 07

It did occasionally get stuck in Park, requiring a firm push of the shifter towards the dashboard before the release lever/solenoid lock would release, so I sort of expected it was going to go, but when it did is was very sudden, no warning, It was stuck in drive and the shifter just moved freely (Obviously because the cable was no longer attached to the shifter arm) The nylon or plastic bushings in each end of the original cable where completely worn out, the shifter end bushing was actually broken into 3 separate pieces, So I figured I would replace the whole thing just in case there was some hidden internal damage !