transmission fluid level check
05-03-2016, 11:11 AM
#2
Pro
Hello,
First, forget a dipstick - there ain't one. There are some good articles online on how to do it. The fluid needs to be between 88 and 120 degrees f approx. The fluid must be checked with the car running on a level surface. The plug on the bottom of the pan is then removed. I no fluid runs out, some will need to be added. Adding fluid requires lifting the car and removing the rubber plug on the upper side of the transmission. If fluid runs out, let it drip until it almost stops. This job is not for the faint of heart. High regards, Monte
First, forget a dipstick - there ain't one. There are some good articles online on how to do it. The fluid needs to be between 88 and 120 degrees f approx. The fluid must be checked with the car running on a level surface. The plug on the bottom of the pan is then removed. I no fluid runs out, some will need to be added. Adding fluid requires lifting the car and removing the rubber plug on the upper side of the transmission. If fluid runs out, let it drip until it almost stops. This job is not for the faint of heart. High regards, Monte
05-03-2016, 11:21 AM
#3
Pro
You have to have it on a lift or on jackstands on level ground with the engine running and transmission temp between 87 and 120 degrees. You check it by removing the drain plug and letting the fluid drain until it is just a trickle. If no fluid comes out when the plug is removed you must add fluid by the fill plug until fluid starts to come out than install the drain plug. (The drain plug is on the back of the case the fill plug is on the right side of the case it is a rubber plug) Sounds like fun doesn't it!!!
05-03-2016, 11:45 AM
#4
Team Owner
With the trans being in the rear of the car, it would be difficult to have a normal dipstick...this is why they had to go with this convoluted method of checking the fluid level.
05-03-2016, 12:01 PM
#5
Melting Slicks
I change my fluids every 50K...
I just wait until then and replace and check the ATF.
If there are no drips under the car, you should be OK.
If your car is shifting odd, just plan to service the ATF and filter.
The C6 loves to have new fluid and filter. That A6 is so much smoother once the new fluid is in.
I just wait until then and replace and check the ATF.
If there are no drips under the car, you should be OK.
If your car is shifting odd, just plan to service the ATF and filter.
The C6 loves to have new fluid and filter. That A6 is so much smoother once the new fluid is in.
05-03-2016, 01:03 PM
#6
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I spoke to my Chevy dealer. They flush the trans fluid so all of its replaced. They said they do not change the filter because it's a screen. I checked 2 dealers and they use the flush system and not change the filter. They said if the filter gets clogged then it's time for a trans overhaul. When I reach 30k I'll take it for a change because many times it will get over 175 dg. (Trans temp ) It has reached in traffic 210 dg.
A corvette specialist that I spoke to changes the filter with the fluid very expensive.My Lexus you never change the fluid and that seems odd.
I'll change my Vette fluid every 30 k miles. Wish it had a dipstick
A corvette specialist that I spoke to changes the filter with the fluid very expensive.My Lexus you never change the fluid and that seems odd.
I'll change my Vette fluid every 30 k miles. Wish it had a dipstick
Last edited by enventr; 05-03-2016 at 01:05 PM.
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Leifer (06-18-2023)
05-03-2016, 01:26 PM
#7
Melting Slicks
I did the flush once... A few miles later all of the seals were leaking...
Never again.
Did your Chevy dealer explain how they were going to get all of the crud from the bottom of the pan and on the magnets?
Three of my current C6 ATF filters have been pretty grungy.
I personally don't like the dealers answer. Just 6.5 qts and a new filter make a difference.
It is a job that you can do at home if you enjoy laying on your back on a creeper.
It is not nearly as messy as AT's were twenty or thirty years ago.
At least now they have a drain plug.
Never again.
Did your Chevy dealer explain how they were going to get all of the crud from the bottom of the pan and on the magnets?
Three of my current C6 ATF filters have been pretty grungy.
I personally don't like the dealers answer. Just 6.5 qts and a new filter make a difference.
It is a job that you can do at home if you enjoy laying on your back on a creeper.
It is not nearly as messy as AT's were twenty or thirty years ago.
At least now they have a drain plug.
Last edited by MikeERWNC; 05-03-2016 at 01:27 PM.
05-03-2016, 09:42 PM
#8
Race Director
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C6 of Year Finalist (performance mods) 2019
In addition to having the car level and the temps at 104 +- 16 degrees, you need to move the shift lever from park to reverse and back, stopping in each location for 3 seconds before removing the plug.
Do not shut off the engine with the plug removed.
The dealer procedure for flushing is they hook up the machine to the cooler lines and dump in 14 quarts and hope that the 14 quarts that comes out is all old fluid. The problem with that is when the fluid goes from the cooler to the transmission it merely gets dumped into the pan with all the old fluid before circulating throughout the transmission and converter. It's about a 75% exchange at best and the old filter never gets changed.
The filter is a paper filter and the system is full flow. If you want to change fluid, vacuum or siphon as much as possible out the fill port before removing the pan. I've had mine off at least 4 times and never needed to replace the gasket. Definitely replace the filter. Add 7 quarts of fluid, since it'll allow nearly 1/2 quart to drain out during the checking procedure. If you want to get the same 75% exchange, just drive a couple hundred miles and vacuum or siphon out 6+ quarts and refill/recheck again. At least you'll have a new filter and a chance to clean the pan.
Do not shut off the engine with the plug removed.
The dealer procedure for flushing is they hook up the machine to the cooler lines and dump in 14 quarts and hope that the 14 quarts that comes out is all old fluid. The problem with that is when the fluid goes from the cooler to the transmission it merely gets dumped into the pan with all the old fluid before circulating throughout the transmission and converter. It's about a 75% exchange at best and the old filter never gets changed.
The filter is a paper filter and the system is full flow. If you want to change fluid, vacuum or siphon as much as possible out the fill port before removing the pan. I've had mine off at least 4 times and never needed to replace the gasket. Definitely replace the filter. Add 7 quarts of fluid, since it'll allow nearly 1/2 quart to drain out during the checking procedure. If you want to get the same 75% exchange, just drive a couple hundred miles and vacuum or siphon out 6+ quarts and refill/recheck again. At least you'll have a new filter and a chance to clean the pan.
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RPM's96 (05-03-2016)
05-03-2016, 10:00 PM
#9
Le Mans Master
After reading this I have to ask, my 08 A6 just went over 50k should I drain tranny and change filter? Process to check fluid level seems harder than swapping the filter. On a scale of 1 to 10 what skill level is required to do this? I don't have a lift but could get access to one if its a big difference.
05-03-2016, 10:22 PM
#10
Team Owner
After reading this I have to ask, my 08 A6 just went over 50k should I drain tranny and change filter? Process to check fluid level seems harder than swapping the filter. On a scale of 1 to 10 what skill level is required to do this? I don't have a lift but could get access to one if its a big difference.
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okie08vette (05-03-2016)
05-03-2016, 11:14 PM
#11
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C6 of Year Finalist (performance mods) 2019
After reading this I have to ask, my 08 A6 just went over 50k should I drain tranny and change filter? Process to check fluid level seems harder than swapping the filter. On a scale of 1 to 10 what skill level is required to do this? I don't have a lift but could get access to one if its a big difference.
A lift is a great advantage, especially for us older guys. It also pretty much assures the car will be level, which is very important. If the car is low in the back, you'll end up low on fluid, because the plug is toward the rear of the pan.
For those doing this in your garage, you need to compensate for your garage floor that normally slopes about 1/8" per foot. YMMV
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okie08vette (05-04-2016)
05-04-2016, 12:16 AM
#12
Le Mans Master
If changing engine oil and filter is a 2 to 3, then the trans fluid change would be a 3-4.
A lift is a great advantage, especially for us older guys. It also pretty much assures the car will be level, which is very important. If the car is low in the back, you'll end up low on fluid, because the plug is toward the rear of the pan.
For those doing this in your garage, you need to compensate for your garage floor that normally slopes about 1/8" per foot. YMMV
A lift is a great advantage, especially for us older guys. It also pretty much assures the car will be level, which is very important. If the car is low in the back, you'll end up low on fluid, because the plug is toward the rear of the pan.
For those doing this in your garage, you need to compensate for your garage floor that normally slopes about 1/8" per foot. YMMV
05-04-2016, 02:35 AM
#13
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Location: Port St. Lucie West Florida
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In addition to having the car level and the temps at 104 +- 16 degrees, you need to move the shift lever from park to reverse and back, stopping in each location for 3 seconds before removing the plug.
Do not shut off the engine with the plug removed.
The dealer procedure for flushing is they hook up the machine to the cooler lines and dump in 14 quarts and hope that the 14 quarts that comes out is all old fluid. The problem with that is when the fluid goes from the cooler to the transmission it merely gets dumped into the pan with all the old fluid before circulating throughout the transmission and converter. It's about a 75% exchange at best and the old filter never gets changed.
The filter is a paper filter and the system is full flow. If you want to change fluid, vacuum or siphon as much as possible out the fill port before removing the pan. I've had mine off at least 4 times and never needed to replace the gasket. Definitely replace the filter. Add 7 quarts of fluid, since it'll allow nearly 1/2 quart to drain out during the checking procedure. If you want to get the same 75% exchange, just drive a couple hundred miles and vacuum or siphon out 6+ quarts and refill/recheck again. At least you'll have a new filter and a chance to clean the pan.
Do not shut off the engine with the plug removed.
The dealer procedure for flushing is they hook up the machine to the cooler lines and dump in 14 quarts and hope that the 14 quarts that comes out is all old fluid. The problem with that is when the fluid goes from the cooler to the transmission it merely gets dumped into the pan with all the old fluid before circulating throughout the transmission and converter. It's about a 75% exchange at best and the old filter never gets changed.
The filter is a paper filter and the system is full flow. If you want to change fluid, vacuum or siphon as much as possible out the fill port before removing the pan. I've had mine off at least 4 times and never needed to replace the gasket. Definitely replace the filter. Add 7 quarts of fluid, since it'll allow nearly 1/2 quart to drain out during the checking procedure. If you want to get the same 75% exchange, just drive a couple hundred miles and vacuum or siphon out 6+ quarts and refill/recheck again. At least you'll have a new filter and a chance to clean the pan.
05-04-2016, 02:36 AM
#14
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Member Since: Aug 2006
Location: Port St. Lucie West Florida
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I did the flush once... A few miles later all of the seals were leaking...
Never again.
Did your Chevy dealer explain how they were going to get all of the crud from the bottom of the pan and on the magnets?
Three of my current C6 ATF filters have been pretty grungy.
I personally don't like the dealers answer. Just 6.5 qts and a new filter make a difference.
It is a job that you can do at home if you enjoy laying on your back on a creeper.
It is not nearly as messy as AT's were twenty or thirty years ago.
At least now they have a drain plug.
Never again.
Did your Chevy dealer explain how they were going to get all of the crud from the bottom of the pan and on the magnets?
Three of my current C6 ATF filters have been pretty grungy.
I personally don't like the dealers answer. Just 6.5 qts and a new filter make a difference.
It is a job that you can do at home if you enjoy laying on your back on a creeper.
It is not nearly as messy as AT's were twenty or thirty years ago.
At least now they have a drain plug.