Lowered OEM Bolts all the way, still not low enough.
05-03-2016, 11:37 PM
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Lowered OEM Bolts all the way, still not low enough.
Options? Can i cut the bushings on the car? What is the best way to do it? Would I bet better off getting an aftermarket set?
05-03-2016, 11:46 PM
#2
You'll have to cut the bushings.. I just finished doing this to the rear of my vette. I was able to lower the front enough for my liking but the rear still sat way too tall for me even cranking all the way down.
The job is pretty annoying and I wasn't able to cut the bushings on the car like many on here do. I ended up dropping the A arm, lower shock mount, and sway bar to give myself enough room to screw the bolt all the way out and cut the bushing outside the car.
Use jack stands to support the weight of the car, then use a jack to release the pressure from the leaf spring to get more room. I used a sawzall to cut the bushing, made quite the mess but it worked!
Good luck!
Good luck!
The job is pretty annoying and I wasn't able to cut the bushings on the car like many on here do. I ended up dropping the A arm, lower shock mount, and sway bar to give myself enough room to screw the bolt all the way out and cut the bushing outside the car.
Use jack stands to support the weight of the car, then use a jack to release the pressure from the leaf spring to get more room. I used a sawzall to cut the bushing, made quite the mess but it worked!
Good luck!
Good luck!
05-04-2016, 02:02 PM
#6
Understand corner balance/stance height of front to rear, before just deciding to "Slam" the vet and kill it handling.
If you are measuring from the lips of the fenders on a base to the ground with the car on level ground, then the rear fender lips should be about 1 3/8" higher off the ground than the front fender lips as your start point.
If you have a wide body car, then the rear fender lips about 7/8" higher off the ground instead as your start point.
From here, then break out the scales to fine tune corner balance of the car correctly.
If you are measuring from the lips of the fenders on a base to the ground with the car on level ground, then the rear fender lips should be about 1 3/8" higher off the ground than the front fender lips as your start point.
If you have a wide body car, then the rear fender lips about 7/8" higher off the ground instead as your start point.
From here, then break out the scales to fine tune corner balance of the car correctly.
05-04-2016, 02:17 PM
#7
Team Owner
Understand corner balance/stance height of front to rear, before just deciding to "Slam" the vet and kill it handling.
If you are measuring from the lips of the fenders on a base to the ground with the car on level ground, then the rear fender lips should be about 1 3/8" higher off the ground than the front fender lips as your start point.
If you have a wide body car, then the rear fender lips about 7/8" higher off the ground instead as your start point.
From here, then break out the scales to fine tune corner balance of the car correctly.
If you are measuring from the lips of the fenders on a base to the ground with the car on level ground, then the rear fender lips should be about 1 3/8" higher off the ground than the front fender lips as your start point.
If you have a wide body car, then the rear fender lips about 7/8" higher off the ground instead as your start point.
From here, then break out the scales to fine tune corner balance of the car correctly.
05-04-2016, 02:23 PM
#8
C6 will pull hard to 175mph, and top out just short of 200mph for even a base model.
You upset the balance/handing of the car, and come triple digits in speed where such is needed, it will try to kill you instead.
You upset the balance/handing of the car, and come triple digits in speed where such is needed, it will try to kill you instead.
05-04-2016, 02:50 PM
#9
Team Owner
Again...on a 100% street car. No need to go that fast. If you're doing 1/2 mile or 1 mile events....it still doesn't affect it. DRM stated a while back, that the C6 doesn't have to have a lot of rake and can get away with being low in the back. I have seen C6s run mile events slammed on stock leafs/shocks with no problems. A corner-balanced car is truly overkill for the street.
05-04-2016, 02:53 PM
#11
Team Owner
Or in the wind tunnel.....
Last edited by cclive; 05-04-2016 at 02:54 PM.
05-05-2016, 06:40 PM
#12
Yep, base daily driver that sooner or later, someone is going to see what it will do (read is a monster when unleashed).
So here is what even a base C6 vet will do when unleashed.
0 to 60 in about 4 seconds.
At the quarter mile mark, your around 130mph.
At the one mile mark, your dancing with 160MPH'ish.
At the one and half mile mark, your cracking top speed of just short of 200mph.
Hard on the brakes from the mile and half mark, and you have the car back down to 0 again before hitting the 2 mile mark.
So even as a daily drive, you can crack through through the 100mph mark in less than a quarter mile from a dead stop on any road, and with the handling unbalanced, things can get out of hand really, really quick instead.
So here is what even a base C6 vet will do when unleashed.
0 to 60 in about 4 seconds.
At the quarter mile mark, your around 130mph.
At the one mile mark, your dancing with 160MPH'ish.
At the one and half mile mark, your cracking top speed of just short of 200mph.
Hard on the brakes from the mile and half mark, and you have the car back down to 0 again before hitting the 2 mile mark.
So even as a daily drive, you can crack through through the 100mph mark in less than a quarter mile from a dead stop on any road, and with the handling unbalanced, things can get out of hand really, really quick instead.
05-06-2016, 10:07 AM
#13
Safety Car
05-06-2016, 10:16 AM
#14
Team Owner
Member Since: Mar 2004
Location: Oklahoma City OK
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I had a C5 that I lowered all the way, then cut the bushings. It looked great except I hit absolutely every bump in the road and hard too!
05-06-2016, 12:19 PM
#15
Team Owner
GM does lots of things in the design of the car, and many of these are disregarded when modifications by the owner begin. Some, like the floor mats, are not that important...others, like the aerodynamics, are very important. Since I don't have my own wind tunnel, I'll defer to GM's.
Last edited by cclive; 05-06-2016 at 02:10 PM.
05-06-2016, 12:47 PM
#17
Safety Car
05-06-2016, 04:35 PM
#18
Unclear sarcasm on my part...this was exactly my point...
GM does lots of things in the design of the car, and many of these are disregarded when modifications by the owner begin. Some, like the floor mats, are not that important...others, like the aerodynamics, are very important. Since I don't have my own wind tunnel, I'll defer to GM's.
GM does lots of things in the design of the car, and many of these are disregarded when modifications by the owner begin. Some, like the floor mats, are not that important...others, like the aerodynamics, are very important. Since I don't have my own wind tunnel, I'll defer to GM's.
Having modified more than a few cars in the 50 years I've been driving, and taking just a moment to assess the results of these modifications, I confess that I too, take comfort in deferring to the expertise of the engineers who designed these "things" in the first place !!"
Gary
05-06-2016, 07:23 PM
#20
I lowered all my bolts down all the way. The rear did absolutely nothing. The fronts gave me 1/4" drop.
I had to cut the bushings clean off in the rear. Gave me a full inch drop after that. Now car sits where i want it. Low but not too low.
I had to cut the bushings clean off in the rear. Gave me a full inch drop after that. Now car sits where i want it. Low but not too low.
