Prostreet513

For those who have lowered their C6 with the stock bolts, how much did it lower in the front and rear? Is it worth it? Did it improve the handling or body roll at all?

PRL1941

I did mine with difficulty and the front is about right but the back is not , needs to go down 1 more inch to be level. So I am going to have new bolts put on front and back.

Mine were frozen and I went thru hell breaking them loose. It is not simple because you must get the weight off the bolts with a second bottle jack or a special tool that compresses the bolt. The nut is 10mm and I broke two tools before they broke loose even after soaking with WD40 but it does look better in my estimation.

BigMonkey73

While on the subject, what is the stock height supposed to be for a base C6?

Prostreet513

Is it worth messing with?

JJLAI724

If you want a lower stance then yes.

BWF07

If your 4 bolts are not frozen, the job is a simple task. I lowered my '07 all the way and cut one bushing rib in the rear. Took longer to cut the two bushings then it took to crank the 4 bolts down.
Is it worth it. that depends on why you are doing it. First off like the looks of the Corvette lowered. It is a much more aggressive look. Does it handle better, maybe a little, but then again I have the Z51 option. The ride quality will be less and even more so with the Z51. You also need to remember that your road clearance is less. I know if I put a front splitter on mine it most likely would not last a week.
The overall height reduction is somewhere between 5/8 of an inch and an inch. I did not measure mine before and after, but that is what I have read.

Unreal

It is done for looks.

Make sure to get an alignment afterwards.

Prostreet513

I am also doing shocks and sway bars as well. The car is an 07 with 6000 miles so I'm hoping the bolts aren't frozen. I am concerned though because getting in and of my driveway is very hard without scraping as it is now

highrolrcustoms

Im lowered on aftermarket bolts.

Gearhead Jim

Here's a couple of GM charts for 2009 and 2010.
Using the lower chart and measuring the wheel well lips is much easier and probably just as accurate as using the goofy GM tool underneath which is the only spec shown on the top chart.

For aerodynamics (lift, and drag) I insist on keeping the front-rear rake at stock.

Each turn of the bolt(s) will lower/raise the car about 1/8" at the fender lips, after it settles from driving which takes 100 miles or a bit more.

KM177122

+1. Exactly.

Not So Fast

FYI I did just the rear and by measurements on the bolts themselves I lowered it only 3/8", and that's what it came down by at first. Now after quite a while the rear is down 5/8" so it did settle
NSF

KM177122

Agreed. I'm about the same on my car as well.

Gearhead Jim

The adjustment bolts are closer to the centerline of the car, so x inches on the bolt itself will equal x+y inches out at the fender lip. You can measure the distances and work out the numbers if you wish.

Boilerman

In the future, WD-40 is not a penetrating oil.

The best Penetrating oil for frozen and or rusted bolts and nuts is Kroil, it is mfg. by Kano Labs and is an oil that creeps in to tight areas that are rusty and is the best for that purpose.
It is used by companies that work on turbines to loosen frozen nuts and bolts.

Boomer111

Beware that for most the front will lower more than the rear.

This brings into play the radiator supports. These can be damaged when bottoming the front of the car.

And pay attention to Jim's ( Gearhead) numbers regarding the rake.

Also if you travel much in the car, with another passenger and luggage, being lowered to much will cause bottoming out of the suspension on fast speed dips in the roadway.

Oh but the car will look great sitting....