Security system, 2005 c6, Help Please..
01-07-2017, 06:17 PM
#21
This will due to get you started with checking fuses.
Like EVrose said these batteries need to be up on the charge and healthy, as this maybe as simple as this.
You say the battery is new so just verify with a load test, but I think you have issues with connections some where, most likely with a major connection like the cabling for the battery as mentioned before by me.
Like EVrose said these batteries need to be up on the charge and healthy, as this maybe as simple as this.
You say the battery is new so just verify with a load test, but I think you have issues with connections some where, most likely with a major connection like the cabling for the battery as mentioned before by me.
01-07-2017, 06:30 PM
#22
Melting Slicks
so you're at your mechanic and he doesn't have a continuity tester??? Plus the fact that he doesn't know what to do is a bit illogical to me.. You might want to get your car out of there and go somewhere else.. even if you have to tow it. I would also look down at your starter to make sure the wire didn't melt, which a problem with our cars..
01-07-2017, 06:35 PM
#23
You will be using the "Continuity" setting. Fuses are "shorts" when they are good and "open" when they blow. With the continuity setting, when touching the probe and wire, it should beep or light up. To test a fuse, touch the probe to one leg and the wire/alligator with a paperclip or something to the other leg. If it beeps/lights the fuse is good.
Based on what you have been saying, I would check the battery terminals closely. The terminals require a special nut that is super easy to loosen and then lose. If the guys at the shop had the battery disconnected and there is a chance they lost the nut and tried to replace it with another that isn't rounded to fit, it won't work and the terminal will exhibit the sort of symptoms you are sharing. Check both terminals closely for tightness by attempting to rotate them. If they turn, they aren't tight enough. But also, don't over tighten as they will deform and also be no good.
Good luck and please keep us posted.
Based on what you have been saying, I would check the battery terminals closely. The terminals require a special nut that is super easy to loosen and then lose. If the guys at the shop had the battery disconnected and there is a chance they lost the nut and tried to replace it with another that isn't rounded to fit, it won't work and the terminal will exhibit the sort of symptoms you are sharing. Check both terminals closely for tightness by attempting to rotate them. If they turn, they aren't tight enough. But also, don't over tighten as they will deform and also be no good.
Good luck and please keep us posted.
01-07-2017, 06:41 PM
#24
so you're at your mechanic and he doesn't have a continuity tester??? Plus the fact that he doesn't know what to do is a bit illogical to me.. You might want to get your car out of there and go somewhere else.. even if you have to tow it. I would also look down at your starter to make sure the wire didn't melt, which a problem with our cars..
01-07-2017, 07:03 PM
#25
Melting Slicks
Just a FYI, I think the brakes lights work with the engine running, as I think the BCM ( body control module ) is the controller for these kinds of functions.
Another FYI, the BCM and interior fuse box is located behind the passenger foot well area. Check your owners manual for which fuses do what in your car.
Another FYI, the BCM and interior fuse box is located behind the passenger foot well area. Check your owners manual for which fuses do what in your car.
01-07-2017, 07:19 PM
#26
Just a FYI, I think the brakes lights work with the engine running, as I think the BCM ( body control module ) is the controller for these kinds of functions.
Another FYI, the BCM and interior fuse box is located behind the passenger foot well area. Check your owners manual for which fuses do what in your car.
Another FYI, the BCM and interior fuse box is located behind the passenger foot well area. Check your owners manual for which fuses do what in your car.
Last edited by Jason W Dreher; 01-07-2017 at 07:20 PM.
01-07-2017, 07:50 PM
#27
You will be using the "Continuity" setting. Fuses are "shorts" when they are good and "open" when they blow. With the continuity setting, when touching the probe and wire, it should beep or light up. To test a fuse, touch the probe to one leg and the wire/alligator with a paperclip or something to the other leg. If it beeps/lights the fuse is good.
Based on what you have been saying, I would check the battery terminals closely. The terminals require a special nut that is super easy to loosen and then lose. If the guys at the shop had the battery disconnected and there is a chance they lost the nut and tried to replace it with another that isn't rounded to fit, it won't work and the terminal will exhibit the sort of symptoms you are sharing. Check both terminals closely for tightness by attempting to rotate them. If they turn, they aren't tight enough. But also, don't over tighten as they will deform and also be no good.
Good luck and please keep us posted.
Based on what you have been saying, I would check the battery terminals closely. The terminals require a special nut that is super easy to loosen and then lose. If the guys at the shop had the battery disconnected and there is a chance they lost the nut and tried to replace it with another that isn't rounded to fit, it won't work and the terminal will exhibit the sort of symptoms you are sharing. Check both terminals closely for tightness by attempting to rotate them. If they turn, they aren't tight enough. But also, don't over tighten as they will deform and also be no good.
Good luck and please keep us posted.
Can you test the large box fuses as well?
01-07-2017, 09:20 PM
#29
Melting Slicks
Yeah.. I've had it on a trickle charger as well. They did test the battery today but it would seem odd that when I turn on the light's, everything lights up, the ignition and a few other power sources don't.. . When you say connection, do you mean the cables going directly into the battery?..
The threaded stud that holds the cables are completely missing in this shot.
Last edited by extrapilot; 01-07-2017 at 09:22 PM.
01-07-2017, 09:20 PM
#30
What work did the shop do? Could they have disturbed something? Did you charge the new car battery before installing it? I have seen some pretty flat new car batteries. Have you tried unhooking the battery for 10 minutes or so and then trying again? Also, I have read that there is a correct way to insert the fob in the glovebox slot. Buttons to the right with the removable key facing you. Supposedly this works even with the fob battery removed. There are a lot of threads here about no fobs detected with info on how to reprogram your fobs using the trunk key, but I haven't had to do any of that. Good luck!
DO NOT REPROGRAM THE FOB!
That will only make a bad situation worse. Fobs NEVER randomly un-program themselves; it takes very specific steps which take over a half hour to make a recognized fob unrecognizable.
Last edited by owc6; 01-07-2017 at 09:24 PM.
01-07-2017, 09:40 PM
#31
Last edited by Jason W Dreher; 01-07-2017 at 09:45 PM.
01-07-2017, 09:41 PM
#32
Is this located underneath or can I see it with a flashlight from under the hood?
01-07-2017, 09:42 PM
#33
Melting Slicks
Yes and check the connections going to the starter, this is what happens a lot with these cars. Guys that have headers installed need to cautious about this more as the heat will melt away parts like this. Also, wires can come in contact with ground parts of the car and/or headers if the install is not carefully done.
The threaded stud that holds the cables are completely missing in this shot.
The threaded stud that holds the cables are completely missing in this shot.
yupper..
01-07-2017, 09:54 PM
#34
Melting Slicks
Sorry, the relay's, the clicking sound is definitely coming from the relays, all the way to the right facing the photo (the relay's noted c3 and ??) If I remove both C3's and the front ?, the clicking stops, how can these be tested? For some reason, the key fob not detected warning does not come up anymore but the fobs still don't work?. Also, I took the battery to test and it was 100%, they gave me a replacement anyhow and it's still the same...
Another issue that has come up at times is that if someone was riding with you on the passenger side, they may have dislodge the BCM big blue connectors with their shoes pressing hard on the carpet at that point.
Pull the carpet back and check the connector and make sure they are tightly connected.
Check the picture that I showed you earlier.
Last edited by extrapilot; 01-07-2017 at 09:56 PM.
01-07-2017, 09:59 PM
#35
Melting Slicks
Hows that stater connection; give the cable a little tug to make sure its tight. Be careful if the is cable loose as it could short out the battery. May want to disconnect the cable first if not sure about proceeding.
Last edited by extrapilot; 01-07-2017 at 09:59 PM.
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Jason W Dreher (01-07-2017)
01-07-2017, 10:04 PM
#36
Thanks..
Sorry for being mechanically handicap but do you check from under the hood, or under the car. What's the best way to get to this? Thanks..
01-08-2017, 08:09 AM
#38
Melting Slicks
At this point I would recommend to have a pro look at your car, as there are tons of causes when it comes to electrical issues.
These cars are very electrically complicated and there is so much to look for that only experience techs, because with experience that they have, it's going to be easier for them to diagnosis problems.
You may want to think back to when the car was last serviced or modded and at that point could something had been disturbed inadvertently.
You have to look for wiring issues, bad ground connections, harness connectors have to be checked, frayed wires if they have been rubbing on something sharp and causing a short.
The relays you spoke of could be checked by removing each one, one at a time and check the condition of the sockets inside the fuse boxes, to make sure they are not burnt looking.
Usually it's something so simple but hard to detect and that's where a good tech comes into play.
Good luck
These cars are very electrically complicated and there is so much to look for that only experience techs, because with experience that they have, it's going to be easier for them to diagnosis problems.
You may want to think back to when the car was last serviced or modded and at that point could something had been disturbed inadvertently.
You have to look for wiring issues, bad ground connections, harness connectors have to be checked, frayed wires if they have been rubbing on something sharp and causing a short.
The relays you spoke of could be checked by removing each one, one at a time and check the condition of the sockets inside the fuse boxes, to make sure they are not burnt looking.
Usually it's something so simple but hard to detect and that's where a good tech comes into play.
Good luck
Last edited by extrapilot; 01-08-2017 at 08:50 AM.
01-08-2017, 08:41 AM
#39
At this point I would recommend to have a pro look at your car, as there are tons of causes when it comes to electrical issues.
These cars are very electrically complicated and there is so much to look for that only experience techs, because with experience that they have, it's going to be easier for them to diagnosis problems.
You may want to think back to when the car was last serviced or modded and at that point could something had been disturbed inadvertently.
You have to look for wiring issues, bad ground connections, harness connectors have to be checked, frayed wires if they have been rubbing on something sharp and causing a short.
The relays you spoke of could be checked by removing each one, one at a time and check the condition of the sockets inside the fuse boxes, to make sure they are not burnt looking.
Usually it's something so simple but hard to detect and that's were a good tech comes into play.
Good luck
These cars are very electrically complicated and there is so much to look for that only experience techs, because with experience that they have, it's going to be easier for them to diagnosis problems.
You may want to think back to when the car was last serviced or modded and at that point could something had been disturbed inadvertently.
You have to look for wiring issues, bad ground connections, harness connectors have to be checked, frayed wires if they have been rubbing on something sharp and causing a short.
The relays you spoke of could be checked by removing each one, one at a time and check the condition of the sockets inside the fuse boxes, to make sure they are not burnt looking.
Usually it's something so simple but hard to detect and that's were a good tech comes into play.
Good luck