Jason W Dreher

Hello, Im sitting at the shop and my car is dead. Battery is new and the little red lights are flashing but nothing else.. Can anyone please share any possible security system trouble shooting that may be interferring?.. Thanks..

Jason W Dreher

Saying no key fob detected and I have both fobs?..

Arkyvette

Have you tried sticking one of your fobs in slot in the glovebox? That and unplugging things from the cigarette lighters can sometimes help.

Jason W Dreher

I did.. I just changed the battery in the fob as well.. Just sitting here trying to figure this out.. I was told the car should still start with the fob in the glove box even if the fob is bad?.. It keeps saying no fob detected..

Arkyvette

What work did the shop do? Could they have disturbed something? Did you charge the new car battery before installing it? I have seen some pretty flat new car batteries. Have you tried unhooking the battery for 10 minutes or so and then trying again? Also, I have read that there is a correct way to insert the fob in the glovebox slot. Buttons to the right with the removable key facing you. Supposedly this works even with the fob battery removed. There are a lot of threads here about no fobs detected with info on how to reprogram your fobs using the trunk key, but I haven't had to do any of that. Good luck!

unixcorn

Is the car in park (if auto)? Do you see the brake lights coming on when you hold the brake pedal down during starting? As far as the glovebox slot goes, did you try the fob both ways (so the logo is facing the passenger seat or vice versa)? Placing the fob in the glovebox slot should work even if the battery is dead.
Please keep us posted on what you find and good luck!

Jason W Dreher

Still here.. I tried both sides of the fob.. Battery is fully charged. No brake lights come on.. I don't know what else to do?

Jason W Dreher

Car is auto as well.. This is brutal.. ��

Jason W Dreher

Battery is 2 weeks old and a charger on it now. I brought it here for an oil change.. We unhooked the battery twice.. Nothing is lighting up on the dash including the push button.. I'm totally lost for words?

extrapilot

Off the cuff I would recommend looking at the under hood fuse box, as there are a lot of main fuses there, battery main there a couple, ECM, Trans Module, Easy Key Module, check everything. Usually all the fuses could be check with just a OHM meter at the top of each fuse with the sharp probes. No need to pull each fuse. The fuses have small holes so that you can get right to the metal portion at the top for checking continuity.
Also, check the positive cable to the stater solenoid switch, the plastic bakelite insulation on the terminals are know to break and cause electrical connectivity issues. Check the ground right behind the stater bolted to the block.

Jason W Dreher

Interesting that you said this. As I was talking to the mechanic, the accessory light lit up. I was able to start the car and drive it home but not all parts were working and the service vehicle soon light flashed, then stopped. The window was struggling to roll up but I made it home. When I parked it in the garage, again, it would start but the "no fob" lights were not popping up although the fobs still don't work. I had to remove the roof to get out of the car but when I pushed in the ignition switch, there were clicking sounds coming from the fuse box. Where can I pick up this tool to test the fuses? I appreciate the info..

extrapilot

The tool can be pick up at any retailer auto parts store, doesn't need to be a very expensive one, but should be able to read voltage, ac or dc, have OHM's capability to check for resistance and continuity.
There is a pull handle right next to the seat, left side near the seat rail as used for emergency's to get out of the car. No need to take the roof off.

Jason W Dreher

Thanks.. I'm on my way to auto zone now and thanks for the heads up on the emergency seat lol.. 😁

extrapilot

Get one ( multimeter )that will sound off a beep when in the OHM's mode, so that it makes it easier to check the fuses for continuity.

Jason W Dreher

Just picked this one up.. Does each fuse tell you the volt requirements?.. Sorry, I'm not good with electricity as you can see lol. Also, can a bad fuse cause these symptoms as well?. Thanks..

EVRose

This sounds like a weak battery to me. I would have the battery load tested. Even a new or semi new battery can go bad fast.

Jason W Dreher

Thanks.. They actually tested the battery at the shop and it was good to go.

extrapilot

This will due to get you started with checking fuses.

Like EVrose said these batteries need to be up on the charge and healthy, as this maybe as simple as this.
You say the battery is new so just verify with a load test, but I think you have issues with connections some where, most likely with a major connection like the cabling for the battery as mentioned before by me.

KOZ

No brake lights...as dash or rear of car? If you have no brake lights there is a good place to start your trouble shooting.

unixcorn

You will be using the "Continuity" setting. Fuses are "shorts" when they are good and "open" when they blow. With the continuity setting, when touching the probe and wire, it should beep or light up. To test a fuse, touch the probe to one leg and the wire/alligator with a paperclip or something to the other leg. If it beeps/lights the fuse is good.

Based on what you have been saying, I would check the battery terminals closely. The terminals require a special nut that is super easy to loosen and then lose. If the guys at the shop had the battery disconnected and there is a chance they lost the nut and tried to replace it with another that isn't rounded to fit, it won't work and the terminal will exhibit the sort of symptoms you are sharing. Check both terminals closely for tightness by attempting to rotate them. If they turn, they aren't tight enough. But also, don't over tighten as they will deform and also be no good.

Good luck and please keep us posted.