[ZR1] Ceramic to RB steel rotors conversion
11-24-2013, 02:49 PM
#21
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Thread Starter
Something that finally filtered thru my thick skull is that (I assume) most of these cars still use iron calipers. I would tend to think that caliper flex would not be much of an issue then. The small amount of rubber lines in your car would probably not show much diff when switched to rubber/steel braid lines.
I come from performance motorcycle world where these things are mandatory due to use of aluminum calipers and rotor carriers.
So scratch most of what I said above! (I would still like to see individual pads/pistons tho).
I come from performance motorcycle world where these things are mandatory due to use of aluminum calipers and rotor carriers.
So scratch most of what I said above! (I would still like to see individual pads/pistons tho).
here are is a close up picture of the OEM Z06 carbon/ZR1 caliper
11-24-2013, 07:47 PM
#22
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It would seem that these calipers are aluminum. Take a look at Brembo's racing catalog and you will notice that most of what's on offer is bridged or reinforced across the top of the caliper to reduce flex from that large open cutout on top. With a six piston this opening is really large. Just something to consider.
Not to beat a dead horse as this was not your issue to begin with!
Not to beat a dead horse as this was not your issue to begin with!
11-25-2013, 03:35 AM
#23
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Thread Starter
It would seem that these calipers are aluminum. Take a look at Brembo's racing catalog and you will notice that most of what's on offer is bridged or reinforced across the top of the caliper to reduce flex from that large open cutout on top. With a six piston this opening is really large. Just something to consider.
Not to beat a dead horse as this was not your issue to begin with!
Not to beat a dead horse as this was not your issue to begin with!
11-26-2013, 12:32 AM
#24
Burning Brakes
Thanks, these calipers are consider dirty and pretty beat up and have a new set standing by
These steel rotors should last a long long time. I did the switch not so much for cost saving but more for better braking performance. After 1.5 years I am done with the awful on/off feel of the ceramic rotors
These steel rotors should last a long long time. I did the switch not so much for cost saving but more for better braking performance. After 1.5 years I am done with the awful on/off feel of the ceramic rotors
11-26-2013, 02:27 AM
#25
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Thread Starter
11-26-2013, 02:34 AM
#26
Burning Brakes
11-26-2013, 02:56 AM
#28
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11-26-2013, 12:18 PM
#29
Drifting
Lol you know I'm the master on finding deals but I wish the same could be said about the brake pads. At nearly $1k a set this is the second most expensive consumable on the car after tires for me as they last about 5x track days for fronts. I was giving your steel rotor conversion some more thought and if one of the manufacturers could come up with a high quality replacement caliper that uses a more common and hence lower cost pad design I would be open to swapping my self. If the swap would save $400-$500 a set on pads I would be looking at a savings of roughly $2-$2.5K per season just on pads (using 5x sets of pads a season). So something like that would quickly pay for it's self over the course of a few years of track use!
Last edited by Werks; 11-26-2013 at 12:21 PM.
11-26-2013, 12:58 PM
#30
What a great post. I can't offer support or opposition due to total lack of experience in true performance driving. As a street driver that puts about 16,000 miles/year on my ZR1, I am pleased with the lack of accumulated brake dust and wear that I am seeing with the ceramic rotors. I guess it's easy to criticize your observations due to the tremendous popularity of the brakes with auto-media, high-performance cars and other extreme applications. I know a lot can be said about "confidence" when pushing a car to its limit. If wooden rotors gave someone the confidence to perform better than anything else, wood would be the right rotor for them. I like that the Forum allows me to see different observations, especially keen, well thought out write ups and will certainly plant a seed that I could sew if I ever get to the point where I feel the symptoms you described. 
11-27-2013, 01:16 AM
#31
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Thread Starter
Lol you know I'm the master on finding deals but I wish the same could be said about the brake pads. At nearly $1k a set this is the second most expensive consumable on the car after tires for me as they last about 5x track days for fronts. I was giving your steel rotor conversion some more thought and if one of the manufacturers could come up with a high quality replacement caliper that uses a more common and hence lower cost pad design I would be open to swapping my self. If the swap would save $400-$500 a set on pads I would be looking at a savings of roughly $2-$2.5K per season just on pads (using 5x sets of pads a season). So something like that would quickly pay for it's self over the course of a few years of track use!
I don't think it will perform well on the track compare with a good set of endless ME20 or N05U compound pads but I am sure still much better modulation than running ceramic rotors. 5 events for your front pads is about average for Z06/ZR1 ceramic running track duty and I unusual making my pads lasting twice as long. Perhaps my braking period is less than most in the brake zone hence less use of brake pads?
Even though there are cheaper brakes pads for steel rotors I would still use endless brake pads. They are so friendly on rotors and last a long time - esp on my GT3 Cup. Starting cost is high but you only need to replace front pads since wear on rear pads are about 1/2 as front - so the cost is 1/2 or $500 for our Z06/ZR1 and that will be my running cost for brake pads every year if I am aggressive
What a great post. I can't offer support or opposition due to total lack of experience in true performance driving. As a street driver that puts about 16,000 miles/year on my ZR1, I am pleased with the lack of accumulated brake dust and wear that I am seeing with the ceramic rotors. I guess it's easy to criticize your observations due to the tremendous popularity of the brakes with auto-media, high-performance cars and other extreme applications. I know a lot can be said about "confidence" when pushing a car to its limit. If wooden rotors gave someone the confidence to perform better than anything else, wood would be the right rotor for them. I like that the Forum allows me to see different observations, especially keen, well thought out write ups and will certainly plant a seed that I could sew if I ever get to the point where I feel the symptoms you described.
It's hard to beat ceramic when you don't drive your ZR1 hard but once you push it hard on the track it's a whole different story
Last edited by mikymu; 11-27-2013 at 01:20 AM.
12-01-2013, 03:59 AM
#32
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Thread Starter
other thing to keep in mind in addition to ceramic rotors for weight saving is your wheel/tire combination. Just by switching to lighter wheels/tire combination you could save well over 10 lbs each corner to help off set the weight gain from steel rotors
Front OEM wheel/Michelin 57 lbs vs 18" Forgeline GA3R/conti slick 44 lbs - 13 lbs weight saving!
Rear OEM wheel/Michelin 64 lbs vs 18" Forgeline GA3R/conti slick 48 lbs - 16 lbs weight saving!
Front OEM wheel/Michelin 57 lbs vs 18" Forgeline GA3R/conti slick 44 lbs - 13 lbs weight saving!
Rear OEM wheel/Michelin 64 lbs vs 18" Forgeline GA3R/conti slick 48 lbs - 16 lbs weight saving!
12-16-2013, 10:56 PM
#33
Pro
Thread Starter
some of you had question abut these RB rotor fitment - they fit like OEM and no issue with pads or wheel clearance shown below
Last edited by mikymu; 12-17-2013 at 12:07 PM.
