0D3PE

We wanted to take the time out today to share the results of our ZR1 intercooler development and testing. It’s common knowledge that the OEM ZR1 intercooler bricks fail in high temps situations due to the thin material on the top and bottom of the intercooler itself. The extreme pre intercooler temps degrade the material to the point where it collapses or breaks off, ultimately allowing the heat exchanger coolant to enter into the engine and/or sections of the material to fall into the engine. To make matters worse at times there have been shortages of replacement bricks available from GM dealers.

This brought us to our original development into the ZR1 platform. We chose to engineer and test a set of bricks constructed from very durable and readily available bar and plate intercooler cores. These bricks are actually being sold currently by another manufacturer now as an upgrade. We tested these quite some time ago in different conditions, but based on our testing, using pre and post intercooler temperature thermocouples, we saw an average of a 30% decrease in thermal performance from our bar and plate style versus the OEM bricks. We abandoned this design, since taking a 30% hit in efficiency was not acceptable and would have been a huge step backwards.

As time passed and we were developing our HX system we continued searching for better intercooler options. After having conversations with C&R they informed us they were just finalizing their replacement brick solution. Although meant strictly as a more durable replacement to solve the oem intercooler brick shortage, they asked if we could test them to see if there were any temperature gains with their units. We were sent a set from the first batch for testing. Once we had them in our possession our good friends at Late Model Racecraft were kind enough to let us test with one of their 750 package vehicles also using our HX system. Based on our testing using the same exact setup we previously tested with, we saw an average loss of 15% efficiency from the C&R versus the OEM.

We would like to note that testing for the bar and plate versus oem bricks was done on a different ZR1 during the heat of summer. The testing for the C&R versus oem bricks was done recently with much lower inlet temperatures. Due to the way we have the testing setup, we can still get a really good measure of efficiency even with huge differences in inlet temps. So in conclusion, based on our testing, we feel modified OEM bricks are the best choice as far as maintaining the highest possible efficiency. If there ends up being another shortage of replacement bricks from the GM dealers, the C&R bricks would be the best solution. Even though the C&R had a 15% loss in efficiency they are a very study brick design and should have no issues holding up to the heat.

*MoTeC logged data is posted below, please note we accidently had the thermocouple inputs flipped in the control box after changing the bricks on the dyno, so the C&R versus OEM data cannot be overlayed.

Stock vs Bar and Plate


OEM


C&R

whatcop?

Wait so let me get this straight. The OEM brick with your HX system was riding at 133* for IAT2?

0D3PE

Please note the testing procedure was done the same way as our HX development, car was started from being dead cold after components were installed, then the car gets a constant load put on it and held so temps rise to operating temp, then three full back to back pulls are done, with no break in between from 2500 rpm to redline, then the vehicle idles for two mins then the same procedure is done again, basically taxing the cars HX and radiator system to see how components do. Results are taken from from the last pulls.

David Donnals
Owner/Engineering

Dplenzig

Do you modify the stock ones?

ace32x

like I have been telling you

whatcop?

You said 8-14* above ambient. I dunno about you but I have seen it 119* out in quite sometime.

ace32x

you referring to idling or temp after pull? he said there 3 pulls were done back to back. which would have iat 1 temps much higher to start off the next pull when logged

0D3PE

3 back to back pulls, 1-2 min idle break and 3 more full back to back pulls. By the time these pulls are done the engine was starting to overheat, this is on a dyno as well, not much airflow. Its a pretty tough test for the cooling system.

ace32x

whatcop?

Thats what I would say if they hooked me up with a wicked deal too!!!! Data is data and I am sorry but they have repeatedly failed to have delivered. Argue all you want and D3 try to post some elaborate replies as you will, but until I see some proper hard data I am not a believer.

ace32x

go do 3 long pulls in your car and then screen shot your intake air temp