KENS80V

I'd like to purchase a used leaking ZR1 fuel rail to possibly come up with a fix for the problem. I'll do a write up with pictures once I come up with a solution.

Did anyone keep there old leaking fuel rail when replaced by the dealership? I'd buy it at a reduced price.

KENS80V

ttt

BERETTA

I would be interested in this, a friend with a 2010 ZR1 had been smelling gas and we discovered this week that the nylon braided part of the fuel rail was spraying gas.
I immediately checked my 2009 and it is dry right now but I have no faith in it now after reading about others also having this issue. I am wondering if a hydraulic hose repair shop would have the tools to change the line to a steel braided hose if we took the whole rail to them.
Let's all work toward a solution, I also am wondering if the new hose you get from GM is updated or just the same old manufacturer.
Thanks

ZBADESTZ@Straightline

FWIW

Fore Innovations made a billet fuel rail for our cars

KENS80V

Here is the Fore Innovations fuel rails

http://www.foreinnovations.com/Produ...uctCode=41-100

BERETTA

Thanks, has anyone used the Fore fuel rails and associated fittings, hoses etc? This may be a better option than going back with the failure prone stock rail.

KENS80V

I'll post some pictures on Monday of how to remove the stock hose from the fuel rail without damaging anything. Believe it or not it's just a hose barb underneath the stock nylon hose at the crimped fitting. You could just simply remove the failure prone hose and replace the 7" inch section with "Barricade" fuel hose and two fuel injection clamps for about $10.

Barricade fuel injection hose is a top of the line hose for modern formulated fuel. It is even rated for E85.

http://www.gates.com/products/automo...ction-hose-mpi

KENS80V

The cheap/easy way of replacing the defective hose section is to split the crimp fittings with a grinding wheel attached to a die grinder (the smaller the wheel the better). The first picture shows the crimped fittings split and ready for removal.



The second picture shows the area to avoid nicking with the grinding wheel/disk. The pen is pointing the bump in the fuel rail that you must avoid with the wheel/disk. You don't need to grind right through the crimp fitting. Just enough so that you can insert a screw driver tip underneath and with a bit of wiggling you will eventually split the crimped fitting. Now spread it open and pull the hose clear of the rail.



The third picture shows what the fuel rail look like with the hose removed. Simple barb fittings. The best hose to use is mentioned in a previous post. If going this route the use of fuel injection hose clamps is mandatory. Do not use worm style hose clamps.

BERETTA

Thank you for posting this information. The hose you posted looks to be very capable of handling the fuel pressure. Is there enough barb to double clamp each end?

KENS80V

Unfortunately only a single clamp will fit at each end of the hose. The barb is not long enough to use two clamps.