revhardZR1

Hey guys, I'm looking for some more info on this code. I've done some research on it but my problem is a little different.

It's throwing the p0430 code and it also says;

Catalyst System Low
Efficiency Bank 2

The difference with mine compared to the ones I've read is that I have lost my ABS, Active Handling Control and my Traction Control. I know this is pretty common with codes in these cars but it doesn't seem so common with the p0430 code. Any info would be appreciated. Thanks.

phipp85

First make sure you don't have a weak battery. Next I would check all your spark plug wires for a good connection. Sometimes the end that connects to the coil pack can work it's way off especially if you have recently removed them. If neither of those gets you any results I'd run it to the dealer and have them read the codes. They can get way more detailed codes from the Tech 2 than any normal code reader.

I had the p0430 code and it was just a bad catalytic converter.

GTIMANiac

I just had the same thing today in my '10 ZR1, I know this thread is ooooold, but any chance you could PM me with findings?

Hib Halverson

DTC P0430 sets when the signal from the passenger side rear O2 sensor (bank 2, sensor 2) starts to mimic the signal from the passenger side front O2 sensor (bank 2, sensor 1). When that happens, the PCM assumes the efficiency of the passenger side cat is such that emissions are 1.5-times higher than normal and turns on the MIL. Unless your '10 ZR1 is very high mileage, has been run on leaded fuel, has been screwed-up by a crappy tuner or has cats that are physically or mechanically damaged, I would not assume the cat on the passenger side has failed. I'd diagnose the code according to GM service information then repair as directed.

The best bet for that is to buy a 3-day subscription to GM's web based service information (GMSi). You can do that at ACDelco's web site

Landru

Interesting this comes-up, just happened to my '08 w/ 62K
Dealer said cat was shot, they want to replace O2 sensors AND re-flash ECM.
$1700...that includes an aftermarket CC due to GM cats on national backorder, told *could* be 10 weeks.
Apparently they claim O2 sensors are so seized-on they risk breaking 'em when removing; hence, new sensors.
Recently had a 'baby cam' done w/ rebuilt heads so it was tuned.
Asking if re-flash would screw-up tune was told 'possibly', requested no flash.

Am I being had? Possibly.
Between a rock and a hard place living where I am, plus it needs to be smog tested for registration soon.
Am forced to trust this dealership., but car IS 10 y/o.
Just praying tune didn't precipitate this as suggested, above.
Be I n this same place sooner than I'd care, otherwise.

Last thought, for this issue and past 2 my GMEPP Silver was below useless.
Every single issue was excluded...surprise-surprise.
Since I used dealer exclusively because of warranty, and since warranty's essentially useless?
I'll never use this or any other dealer again, sure hope they savor the $1,700. Spend it wisely.
I am done w/ Chevrolet's dealer service department shake-down artists.

Plan to ask the shop who works on our Cads if they'd be receptive to working on a C6 Z06.
Competent wrenches running a honest country shop, just hope one or more enjoy/own some kind of HP vehicle.

MTPZ06

I would start with O2 sensors. It's not impossible, but its unlikely that your cat "is shot" with 62k miles...hence, these cars coming with an 8/80K emissions warranty. I bet new O2's fix you up. Worst case, if you need to replace cats, you can find low mileage take-offs on here for a couple hundred bucks.

DaOtherOne

LS1Steve

I went through this before too, except with P0420 (same thing, other bank). I changed O2's and that bought some time, but it came back. Bottom line, it IS a TSB update that needs to be done by GM to fix the issue - your sensors and cats are probably fine.

If you have a tune, you definitely don't want the reflash (unless you have your aftermarket tune loaded on a PC and can re-load it right after the updated flash - note that reloading your tune will not ruin the TSB update).

Here's what I did instead, to preserve my tune... Get HP Tuners or find someone who has it and pay them the $100 for the 2 credits needed for your unique ECU. Then, go into the engine diagnostics screen and make changes to mirror Mordeth's gracious post #9 in this thread. Easy peasy. If you are cool with your tuner, you can take it back to them and have them make the modifications and re-load, since they already have the credits for your ECU.

Landru

Did some research & essentially read similar advice.
FYI when I had cam/heads/tune last Summer shop said they feared breaking O2 sensors, had some sort of work-around.
Sensors were/are baked-on tight, dealer just confirmed what'd I'd been told.
One thing I know for sure they didn't lie about.

Wished I'd time to screw around w/ this, I'd surely do so, well worth it.
Unfortunately I've <30 days to get the damned thing right to pass state/fed inspection.
Up to now car's been so good w/ none of this crap, caught me totally flat-footed.
I need it, they got it and me by the shorthairs in the process.
We're talking about a stinking catalytic converter for chrissakes. Nuts.

Have to suck it up & take it. SOBs.
Pray the small shop will welcome my Z06 business along w/ our CTS.
Thanks for the input & info.

Landru

Your opinion: IF I have dealer re-flash how much time do I have before replacing tune?
I've a good relationship w/ tuner, said to come back anytime because yes, I paid an one time lic fee when first tuned.

So how much time does one have w/ my mild mods BEFORE re-tune?
I'll get the car back & likely park it, would have to drive 20 mi to tuner then.
That's my dilemma.

DaOtherOne

HP Tuners has baseline OEM tunes for multiple years on their forums. You might be able to compare a 2008 to 2009 or 2010 and see what has changed.

LS1Steve

You have 30 minutes until self-destruct! JK haha... It is really relative to your mods - with porting, etc you'll be safe - the stock tune is rich so it won't hurt anything, it will just make it run a bit fat and you'll be noticeably lower on power. Totally fine to drive it easy. If you had forced induction, I'd get a second opinion

Landru

So I've time to restore tune after the re-flash once GM's finished?
'Mods' are limited to a mild cam + tune, nothing special re heads and no FI.

Absolutely do not want to damage this apparently precious & pricey new catalytic converter or O2 sensor.
Damned odd situation.
Thanks for your input, my friend.

UPDATE
Spoke w/ tuner, he absolutely recommended ECM NOT be re-flashed.
Re-flashing wipes-out any tune & car will not run, would have to be flat-bedded back to them for re-loaded tune.
So there's the answer I needed: leave tune alone w/ no -re-flash -- or lose it completely.
Hope this might help other members in the future dealing w/ like situation.

Many heartfelt thanks to all w/ suggestions(s), best folks to be found anywhere on the WWW.