SquirrelyNutz

If you didn't want to "ruin" the car with drag radials maybe you shouldn't have ruined your canyon carver by giving it way too much power. Even at 590whp with r888s if I wanted to I could kick the back end out around a 90mph turn. The r888s will have more traction than the cup tires. I ran 295/335 on 18x10 and 18x12s and they were great until I got over 700whp. They were spinning in 3rd with 900whp.

LS1FRC

Does your current set up (I believe 345/35/18 MT ET SS) hold your power ?Also any of the balancing issues with them?

lt1z

Would have been better off with a ZO6 on cup tires for that use.

SquirrelyNutz

I still have the older et street II's. One set I got wouldn't balance but summit replaced them free. They hold over 1000whp in second. I have my nitrous split into 2 kits though because 2nd can't hold it all.

Can'tHave2MuchHP

Yeah 750WHP is past the point of a canyon carver unless you keep your foot out of it all the time.

I brake for nothing

Whats the PTM like with an additional 100 - 150 RWHP ? No more full throttle out of corners ?

yellowzron

We all have opinions but having drag radials on a car does not ruin it. The definition of ruin is straightforward. My GS only has 649 rwhp and handles great. Not like a ZR1 but still very good. My problem was I almost crashed it spinning in 3 and 4th gear. I was using run flats then INVOS. Other than a drag radial the car is not worth driving. Now some ZR1s have alot more power than me and to drive on a street tire is dangerous as hell to me.

Having drag radials does not ruin a car at all. To me, and my opinion is, with over 600 rwhp anything less than a drag radial with spirited driving is flat out crazy. But hey that's an opinion. Having 750 rwhp on a cup tire is not good, unless you drive it 35mph. But hey, if I wanted to drive a car only 35 mph I would have bought a million other cars before I built my GS.

yellowzron

100 percent correct

Hockyz

Clearly, we have very different comfort levels with power. hah. I tracked my 650whp ZL1 on Supercars with no problem - a way smaller and way less grippy tire than a ZR1 on cups (along with a bunch of other combos with higher power:weight and less tire). I was hoping for feedback from people who have actually had a zr1 on cups.

Drag radials are great for going drag racing - that is not something that I intend to do. But you still have to have enough power to make the car enjoyable around town. ;-)

MY74VT

Has anyone tried the Hoosier R6/A6 or DR2 compound in 235/35/19 or the 265/35/19 on their C6 ZO6 ?
I went back to the Michelin super pro sport 2 for the street. It's like riding on water, I'm pushing over 750rwhp, without the nitrous. The Nitto NTO5R was great on the street, in dry weather of course, But the 345 size is killing me at the strip. I do not really want to change the 19" rim size but I need a descent set of Drag Radials other than the Nitto NT05R to run on the street as well as the track in a smaller size than the 345's Nitto has for the 19" Mag. The 235/35/19 is over on inche shorter and will pull harder, the 265/35/19 is just under stock height. The Nitto's at 345 are over an inch taller and cutting my times at the strip. I simply have no experience with the Hoosier's. Help!!!!!!

Can'tHave2MuchHP

False. Drag radials, while can go drag racing, are DOT certified for road use and do just fine on the road. What are you scared about with drag radials? An NT05R in a 19" would be exactly what you need and you'll be blown away by how much of your cars power you can actually use. On anything short of a DR, you're never going to be able to truly experience your 750 expensive rwhp, unless you're upwards of 100 I'd guess. I doubt you're really pushing your car to worry about sidewall problems, and if you are, then you shouldn't have built your car to 750 because it's useless to have much over 600 in the turns.

Can'tHave2MuchHP

LOL help you is right...

How is the 345 killing you for one...People cut 1.5 60s and punch out 9.5 second passes on those 345/19 NT05Rs with ZR1s. You realize that 345 is the WIDTH of the tire and not the HEIGHT? "The NT05R at 345 are over an inch taller and cutting my times" - Baloney.

345 = Width in MM
30 = Aspect Ratio, this is the ratio of the height of the tire's cross-section to its width.
19 = Rim size of course


345/30/19 comes out to almost identical to a 335/25/20, the Nitto being only .4 to .5 inches taller than the OEM tire on the car.

Go here: https://tiresize.com/comparison/ and punch in the sizes of tires you're talking about. But I first suggest you do a lot more research...

A 235/265 on 12 inch wheels? That's not even going to be able to stretch over the rim, you'll look like a stanced ricer, and that's only if the tire shop lets you off the yard.

"Michelin Super Pro Sport 2" Doesn't exist...lol. There's a Michelin Pilot Super Sport (MPSS) and Michelin Sport Cup 2s (Road racing tires, not for the strip at all)

Hockyz

I am aware of what a drag radial is - I've had a million of them. Putting them on a car that I am throwing around is illogical. I guess I'll just have to report back in the spring how my cup tires feel.

Can'tHave2MuchHP

I'm sure you are away of what a drag radial is. But I'm not so sure that you know what you want either.

lt1z

Cup tires are useless above 650/650 in a C6/C7 application and worse then street tires when cold.

Hockyz

So then what would you put on the car that doesn't preclude you from negotiating a corner at speed?

For what it is worth, I think I am going to make somewhere between 650 and 700.

lt1z

The only real option is an R888 but sizing for a ZR1 isn't there. The other option is a cup tire where sizing is there but traction isn't. I would limit power to 600whp if canyon carving under heavy throttle is what you want. Turning up a ZR1 brings in so much low end tq that the car will not hook unless on a DR going straight. They were built to be balanced for handling at the stock 540whp level. Adding much more then 60/60 to that starts to upset the balance of the car too much and overwhelm tires that fit stock wheels and offer handling. The stock ZR1 wheel sizes give you extremely limited tire options.

With that said, tires like a Nitto DR have a stiff enough sidewall that they still handle well when aired up to 30 psi. Requuires going down to a 19" rear though. IMO if a canyon carver is what you wanted a Z07 package Z06 would have been a better choice then a ZR1 even stock for stock.

I brake for nothing

For guys with modded Zr1's , at what point is the ptm not able to effectively handle torque exiting corners any longer ? EG If you can stand on the gas exiting corners at 540 rwhp at what point is the comp useless to control slide out ?

Can'tHave2MuchHP

Might be a bit until you get a good answer, but coming from a modded ZL1, it really doesn't matter how good the PTM is, if you're stupid enough, you crash.

If you come out of a corner and flatten your foot, sometimes the damage is done before PTM can kick in to help you. Then it's 100% pucker effect. Almost did it once, couldn't have jammed a needle up my *** with a jack hammer.

yellowzron

!00 percent agree.