[ZR1] About to buy a ZR1 - A few newbie questions
02-16-2017, 03:59 PM
#1
Advanced
Thread Starter
About to buy a ZR1 - A few newbie questions
Hey guys, I'm looking at a higher mileage ZR1, +40k miles, and have a few questions.
It wouldn't surprise me if the rotors/pads are pretty worn. How would I check to see if the rotors are in spec? I know it's expensive as hell to replace, but any tips or advice you can offer would be appreciated.
What other things should I be looking for on these cars? I've owned an 09 C6Z and I'm familiar with common problems on those. Are they the same for the ZR1?
I don't mind the higher mileage, because the price is right. Let me know what to keep an eye out for and things that I should double check before I finalize the purchase.
Thanks!
It wouldn't surprise me if the rotors/pads are pretty worn. How would I check to see if the rotors are in spec? I know it's expensive as hell to replace, but any tips or advice you can offer would be appreciated.
What other things should I be looking for on these cars? I've owned an 09 C6Z and I'm familiar with common problems on those. Are they the same for the ZR1?
I don't mind the higher mileage, because the price is right. Let me know what to keep an eye out for and things that I should double check before I finalize the purchase.
Thanks!
02-17-2017, 11:38 AM
#2
Many dealers will let you have an independent mechanic do a PPI (pre-purchase inspection). I bought mine from Carmax. They don't let you do this, but they do have a no questions asked full return policy on the car, so I set up an appointment with my local Chevrolet dealer in that return window. My local Chevrolet dealer fully inspected the car for the day, same checks they do for certified used vehicles. Since they were an independent party, I trusted they had no reason to hide any issues. They didn't find anything wrong, but if they did, I would have insisted CarMax pay to fix, else I'd return the car.
Also, ask the dealer or another forum member to pull a VIS report based on the VIN. This will give you a pretty detailed history of the car and work that may have been done and potentially notify you if the VIN was blacklisted for any reason. You DON'T want a Spring Mountain car for instance. These were used to train novices on a race track
On the test drive, check for vibration around 75-80 mph (a common issue). Also, look to see if carpet is pealed back or melted around center console and check for bits of rubber plastered / pitted to inside of back wheel wells.
Also, I'd suggest paying to run a Carfax on the car to see if there were any accidents reported and number of owners.
Finally, if you input the VIN in to iseecars.com (free), it will show you every time the car was listed in the past and the price. It also shows you how the current listing price compares to comparable offerings.
http://www.iseecars.com/vin
40k miles is not a lot for a car and the ZR1 is very stout, but it's a lot for a ZR1 in the current market since most are garage queens. Just be aware that if you drive the car for a few years and try to sell with 60-70k miles, it might be tougher to move, but if you buy the car cheap enough now, it might not be as bad if the price is in fact "right" and the car mechanically checks out.
Good luck and don't be afraid to pass on it if there are any issues that make you uncomfortable. There are still plenty of ZR1 fish left in the sea at this point.
Also, ask the dealer or another forum member to pull a VIS report based on the VIN. This will give you a pretty detailed history of the car and work that may have been done and potentially notify you if the VIN was blacklisted for any reason. You DON'T want a Spring Mountain car for instance. These were used to train novices on a race track
On the test drive, check for vibration around 75-80 mph (a common issue). Also, look to see if carpet is pealed back or melted around center console and check for bits of rubber plastered / pitted to inside of back wheel wells.
Also, I'd suggest paying to run a Carfax on the car to see if there were any accidents reported and number of owners.
Finally, if you input the VIN in to iseecars.com (free), it will show you every time the car was listed in the past and the price. It also shows you how the current listing price compares to comparable offerings.
http://www.iseecars.com/vin
40k miles is not a lot for a car and the ZR1 is very stout, but it's a lot for a ZR1 in the current market since most are garage queens. Just be aware that if you drive the car for a few years and try to sell with 60-70k miles, it might be tougher to move, but if you buy the car cheap enough now, it might not be as bad if the price is in fact "right" and the car mechanically checks out.
Good luck and don't be afraid to pass on it if there are any issues that make you uncomfortable. There are still plenty of ZR1 fish left in the sea at this point.
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DSGCOBRA24 (02-17-2017)
02-17-2017, 01:28 PM
#3
Advanced
Thread Starter
Many dealers will let you have an independent mechanic do a PPI (pre-purchase inspection). I bought mine from Carmax. They don't let you do this, but they do have a no questions asked full return policy on the car, so I set up an appointment with my local Chevrolet dealer in that return window. My local Chevrolet dealer fully inspected the car for the day, same checks they do for certified used vehicles. Since they were an independent party, I trusted they had no reason to hide any issues. They didn't find anything wrong, but if they did, I would have insisted CarMax pay to fix, else I'd return the car.
Also, ask the dealer or another forum member to pull a VIS report based on the VIN. This will give you a pretty detailed history of the car and work that may have been done and potentially notify you if the VIN was blacklisted for any reason. You DON'T want a Spring Mountain car for instance. These were used to train novices on a race track
On the test drive, check for vibration around 75-80 mph (a common issue). Also, look to see if carpet is pealed back or melted around center console and check for bits of rubber plastered / pitted to inside of back wheel wells.
Also, I'd suggest paying to run a Carfax on the car to see if there were any accidents reported and number of owners.
Finally, if you input the VIN in to iseecars.com (free), it will show you every time the car was listed in the past and the price. It also shows you how the current listing price compares to comparable offerings.
http://www.iseecars.com/vin
40k miles is not a lot for a car and the ZR1 is very stout, but it's a lot for a ZR1 in the current market since most are garage queens. Just be aware that if you drive the car for a few years and try to sell with 60-70k miles, it might be tougher to move, but if you buy the car cheap enough now, it might not be as bad if the price is in fact "right" and the car mechanically checks out.
Good luck and don't be afraid to pass on it if there are any issues that make you uncomfortable. There are still plenty of ZR1 fish left in the sea at this point.
Also, ask the dealer or another forum member to pull a VIS report based on the VIN. This will give you a pretty detailed history of the car and work that may have been done and potentially notify you if the VIN was blacklisted for any reason. You DON'T want a Spring Mountain car for instance. These were used to train novices on a race track
On the test drive, check for vibration around 75-80 mph (a common issue). Also, look to see if carpet is pealed back or melted around center console and check for bits of rubber plastered / pitted to inside of back wheel wells.
Also, I'd suggest paying to run a Carfax on the car to see if there were any accidents reported and number of owners.
Finally, if you input the VIN in to iseecars.com (free), it will show you every time the car was listed in the past and the price. It also shows you how the current listing price compares to comparable offerings.
http://www.iseecars.com/vin
40k miles is not a lot for a car and the ZR1 is very stout, but it's a lot for a ZR1 in the current market since most are garage queens. Just be aware that if you drive the car for a few years and try to sell with 60-70k miles, it might be tougher to move, but if you buy the car cheap enough now, it might not be as bad if the price is in fact "right" and the car mechanically checks out.
Good luck and don't be afraid to pass on it if there are any issues that make you uncomfortable. There are still plenty of ZR1 fish left in the sea at this point.
02-19-2017, 07:52 AM
#5
Le Mans Master
02-19-2017, 06:01 PM
#6
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Congrats they are great cars. I have almost 35K on my '12, all highway miles on long trips, and I have replaced nothing but the tires and changed oil so far. It all depends on how the car was driven. I am not a track guy, it has never been on a track and I do not abuse the car, though I did take it to the Texas Mile for a spin once. My brakes are pristine, like new, I never burnished them either. I would ask how it was driven, 40K miles on highway trips is way different than 40K miles in stop and go traffic commuting to work in a big city. Good luck!