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C6 Corvette ZR1 & Z06General info about GM’s Corvette Supercar, LS9 Corvette Technical Info, Performance Upgrades, Suspension Setup for Street or Track
I am getting ready to start doing some modifications to my 2010 ZR1 3ZR with 11,053 miles on it. I already have ordered my American Racing headers (1-7/8") Lingenfelter blower snout, pulley, intake system and Mild 2 Wild. Once all installed, we will be doing a Dyno Tune.
So I was wondering(and I am sure more than a few of you have already done the same things to your cars) is what can I expect for RWHP with these mods? These cars are so fast already, I can only imagine what it will be like when done!
Thanks in Advance
Have you considered any intercooler system mods yet? You're going to start increasing the intake temperatures (IAT2) with the increased boost & spinning the blower faster. At the very least maybe consider getting your I/C bricks modified to protect against the heat blast that tends to melt them.
Street use only or will occasional track days/autocross be in the future?
Here is a thread that shows what happens, plus a couple of links regarding the power gains you might expect from your projected mods. The car '05DSOM' had was with a Lingenfelter 710 kit, 1 7/8" ARH headers, etc. That kit has the 2.6" pulley though.
Have you considered any intercooler system mods yet? You're going to start increasing the intake temperatures (IAT2) with the increased boost & spinning the blower faster. At the very least maybe consider getting your I/C bricks modified to protect against the heat blast that tends to melt them.
Street use only or will occasional track days/autocross be in the future?
Here is a thread that shows what happens, plus a couple of links regarding the power gains you might expect from your projected mods. The car '05DSOM' had was with a Lingenfelter 710 kit, 1 7/8" ARH headers, etc. That kit has the 2.6" pulley though.
I will double check with my mechanic that is doing the work for me while I am out of town. Maybe it is the 3.6" pulley. I would like to do some track days and or maybe some auto crossing sometimes.
thanks for your help
I ordered American Racing Headers 1-7/8" with High flow Cats. any idea how much HP is lost using the CATS?
Not much power is lost with cats, BUT no cats seem to live very long in a modded ZR1, you may be alright with the 2.6 upper but keep an eye on them. (Do a search on modded ZR1's with cats)
Nick I'm in the process of doing similar mods but I added the reinforced bricks and upgraded HX. To Jft69z's point, the bricks and HX are very important supporting mods when adding more boost. Good luck and looking forward to seeing the final results.
Not much power is lost with cats, BUT no cats seem to live very long in a modded ZR1, you may be alright with the 2.6 upper but keep an eye on them. (Do a search on modded ZR1's with cats)
Nick I'm in the process of doing similar mods but I added the reinforced bricks and upgraded HX. To Jft69z's point, the bricks and HX are very important supporting mods when adding more boost. Good luck and looking forward to seeing the final results.
Cool Deal. I will keep updating as I go.
Thank you
Stock power should be 540-560 on a DynoJet and maybe 520-540 on a Mustang Dyno. Those modes with a 2.6" pulley should get you around 630 RWHP on a DynoJet. A 2.3" will net maybe 40-50 more but heat will be an issue and when heat soaked it won't any more power than the 2.6". A stock ZR1 can beat a full Lingenfelter car on a 2.3" if heat soaked and the stocker is cool.
Earlier this week someone put up a full D3 ZR1 cooling kit for sale for $2000 and I think those are well above $3k new. New heat exchanger, tanks, lines, pump, and intercooler ports. Basically everything except for a larger radiator and the intercoolers themselves. Since you're pulling the blower for the new snout you might as well send the bricks off to get reinforced. Even with a 2.6" they might still fail down the road and you'll already have everything torn apart. The cooling kit probably isn't needed on a 2.6" but you're on the edge and maybe past it if since you live in FL.
Cat wise, jcguy is right on power and reliability. 2.6" is safe-ish and nearly everyone on a 2.3 burns them up eventually. The air flow is just so high at that power level that even a full 3" exhaust can't tame the temps. They simply burn up. A lot of stock ZR1's even lose cats in 10-20k miles. If the ARH x-pipe has a removable front cat section, I'd buy cats if you're running the 2.6" and buy the straight section in case they burn up down the road. Or at least you can easily swap in new cats if they're on their own pipes. If you go 2.3" or use the overdrive balancer you might as well bypass the cats and be prepared to send small children and animals running when you start the engine.
Stock power should be 540-560 on a DynoJet and maybe 520-540 on a Mustang Dyno. Those modes with a 2.6" pulley should get you around 630 RWHP on a DynoJet. A 2.3" will net maybe 40-50 more but heat will be an issue and when heat soaked it won't any more power than the 2.6". A stock ZR1 can beat a full Lingenfelter car on a 2.3" if heat soaked and the stocker is cool.
Earlier this week someone put up a full D3 ZR1 cooling kit for sale for $2000 and I think those are well above $3k new. New heat exchanger, tanks, lines, pump, and intercooler ports. Basically everything except for a larger radiator and the intercoolers themselves. Since you're pulling the blower for the new snout you might as well send the bricks off to get reinforced. Even with a 2.6" they might still fail down the road and you'll already have everything torn apart. The cooling kit probably isn't needed on a 2.6" but you're on the edge and maybe past it if since you live in FL.
Cat wise, jcguy is right on power and reliability. 2.6" is safe-ish and nearly everyone on a 2.3 burns them up eventually. The air flow is just so high at that power level that even a full 3" exhaust can't tame the temps. They simply burn up. A lot of stock ZR1's even lose cats in 10-20k miles. If the ARH x-pipe has a removable front cat section, I'd buy cats if you're running the 2.6" and buy the straight section in case they burn up down the road. Or at least you can easily swap in new cats if they're on their own pipes. If you go 2.3" or use the overdrive balancer you might as well bypass the cats and be prepared to send small children and animals running when you start the engine.
Just had new Sport Cup 2 tires put on the car but have not had time to do anything else yet and only mild street driving so far. But they definitely hook better than the stock old tires!
03-15-2017, 08:31 PM
2010 ZR1 mods
