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TLDR Version
Fully built car, best parts, professionally built, excellent condition, in storage 3 years, spins but won't start, needs minor work.
The bad news
Spins but won't start. It needs to have the cooling fan replaced. The breather setup is plumbed wrong and needs to be re-done. That led to it sucking a fair amount of oil through the intake. You'll likely want to take the inlet completely apart and clean it out. We never got the tune sorted quite as well as I wanted (I am an ex-GM engineer and very fussy).
The good news
Fabulous car in all other respects. Well, I think so anyways. 24k miles on car, only about 500 miles on build. Purchased new from Rick Conti, this was the FIRST regular production 2009 Z06, and the third 2009 C6 off the line. FIRST 2009 production car off the line with Q8A "spider" wheels. Super rare, one-year combo of Atomic Orange w/3LZ Dark Titanium leather-wrapped interior, believed only about 6 built. Has all options except Nav.
Paint is in nice shape, but I drove it, and it has some minor rock chipping in the usual places. Car has always been kept inside. I'm a lard *** and the driver's seat shows the usual creases on the bottom bolster, and some wear on side bolster. The Vette Stripes stripes are presentable, but have a couple of defects if you look close. The fastidious will want to replace them.
I took the factory tour and saw it built, and picked it up at the Museum. If you search here under my name there are a bunch of threads on the buy, and later on the build.
I have build sheets, 2 different window stickers (one it went down the line with that has no pricing - pricing wasn't ready yet, and one regular one), various other "souvenirs" of seeing it being built.
Won People's Choice at the only show it was ever in. It is a stunner.
At 24k miles I had a full build done on it. The exact circumstances were a bit of a "story", which I will relate in private.
Here's what went into the build
First off, the design goal was Mile racing and street use, including long trips. Accordingly, there was a strong focus on strength and longevity in component selection. To that end, some parts will look like "overkill" compared to a lot of similar builds. But I was assured by several top engine builders that Mile racing stresses an engine much more than typical street sprints or drag racing and that you really couldn't overbuild for the Mile. The specific configuration listed below was "blessed" by some people I respect, and whose names you would recognize.
Within that, there are intended to be two tuning configurations: approximately 10 psi for "street' use using a 4.75" blower pulley, which is the largest that will fit the Vette bracket. I hoped/expected that to make about 725 to the wheels. On its only dyno run it actually made 794 to the wheels with the large pulley.
The street/big pulley tune was designed to use just water for injection. Then, for Mile racing or any use with "good" tires, the blower pulley can be changed to a 3.7" unit. This pulley is included with the car but was never installed. This should produce 15-16 psi and almost certainly over 1000 to the wheels. Tune for this (never completed) will require 93 octane and meth in the injection tank.
On to engine details
All engine work, including machining, blueprinting, balancing, and assembly was by Joe Irwin of Fast Forward Racing Engines. You may not have heard of this guy but I picked him because he is extremely nit-picky and meticulous. He has done LS motors before but is better known in the Ford heads-up drag community. The only exception was the cylinder heads which were prepared by Richard Reyman of West Coast Cylinder Heads.
Installation and all other work on the car was done by Greg Lovell of AntiVenom. Tuning was a combination of Greg and myself.
Long Block
• 2nd design LSX block, bored to 4.125", decked, line-honed
• Callies Dragonslayer crank, 4" stroke, LS7 configuration
• Oliver Speedway 6.125" rods
• Diamond custom forged dished pistons, final compression 9.8:1
• Diamond tool steel piston pins
• Steel top ring set
• Calico coated main and rod bearings
• ARP main studs
• ARP "6 bolt" head studs
• GM LSX 6-bolt steel head gaskets, .041"
• Stock LS7 oiling system
• ATI 8-rib Super Damper, 7.53"
Heads
• GM LSX-LS7 cylinder heads
• Stage II porting by West Coast Cylinder Heads
• Combustion chambers opened up to 73cc to unshroud valves
• Del West titanium intake valves, stock size
• REV stainless exhaust valves, stock size
• PRC EHT valve springs
Valvetrain
• Comp Cams cam, custom grind designed by me (but inspired by a Ragin Racin design). .630"/.630" lift, 232/256 duration, 114 LCA, 110 ICL or "+4". 16 degrees of overlap is a nice compromise for a healthy street 427. Exhaust duration is much larger than intake both because this seems to work best on the LS7 and also because it is supercharged. The actual cam lobes chosen are quite conservative by modern standards, again for reliability and durability on those mile-long pulls.
• Morel link-bar lifters, .750" rollers
• Trend custom 3/8" pushrods, .080" wall
• Cloyes Extreme HexAdjust timing set
• Stock LS7 rockers, converted to a bushed bearing by CHE
Intake
• LS7 intake manifold, ported by Pete Incaudo
• LS7 throttle body, ported by Pete Incaudo
Engine Misc
• Katech valve covers
• Katech coil mounts
• Katech-supplied MSD ignition wires
• CoolTech spark plug wire shields
• Stock coils
• NGK BR7EF plugs
• Custom valve cover inserts provided by Fast Forward Racing Engines, paint for inserts by Greg Lovell
Blower
• Blower is a ProCharger F1-A
• Blower drive is a ProCharger 8-rib setup
• "Big Mouth" air filter and ducting is from Taylor Sims at Dallas Performance
• Intake manifold inlet tube is from Taylor Sims at Dallas Performance
• Intercooler is standard ProCharger from the Z06 kit
• Blow-off valve is a ProCharger "race" valve, on a custom mount fabricated by Greg Lovell
• 4.75" pulley for "street" tune and 3.7" pulley for "race" tune
Exhaust
• American Racing 1 7/8" headers
• American Racing hi-flow cats and x-pipe
• Headers were modified to have an additional bung for a wideband, and also had bungs added in the #7 and #8 header tubes for thermocouple (EGT) installation. Mods by Greg Lovell. The headers were also coated, you would have to ask Greg who did the work.
• Stock LS7 mufflers got the "muffler mod" by Greg Lovell. Mufflers were powder coated satin black in keeping with the black and orange theme of the car.
• Mild 2 Wild exhaust switch
Fuel System
• Modified Dallas Performance "1800hp" fuel system. This system retains the stock Corvette pump assembly for normal use. An RPM-activated switch brings in a Magnafuel auxiliary pump in parallel at 3000 rpm. The system is converted to a return-style setup, with external pickups added to the bottom of the driver's side tank. Greg Lovell modified the system to replace most of the braided fuel line with hard line, both for safety's sake in the event of a collision and because it adds more of an OEM look, which I prefer. The fuel filter was moved from an area near the fuel tank to just behind the front wheel, for better protection and easier serviceability.
• Fuelab 515 boost-referenced fuel pressure regulator
• Siemens 80# fuel injectors
• Dallas performance fuel rails
• Hardline connecting the fuel rails by Greg Lovell
Meth Kit
• AlkyControl meth kit, utilizing windshield washer reservoir for meth tank
• AlkyControl control box mounted in glove box
• Meth reservoir drain line and valve fabricated by Greg Lovell. This allows easily changing to fresh meth for any serious "pulling".
• Dallas Performance frame mount for meth pump
• Dual Dallas Performance stainless steel meth injection nozzles
• Hardlines to meth injectors by Greg Lovell
Breather
• Custom catch can by Taylor Sims at Dallas Performance
• Catch can/PCV plumbing by Greg Lovell
Installation Misc
• Liberal use of CoolTech heat insulation products where it seemed advisable
Additional instrumentation
• AEM wideband, connected to an HPTuners MPVI for datalogging and tuning
• SPA Technique dual fuel pressure/boost gauge
• SPA Technique dual EGT gauge
• Gauges mounted in Autometer 3-pod windshield pillar mount
• Mounting and custom reset buttons by Greg Lovell
Driveline
• RPS BC3 billet triple-disc carbon clutch, steel flywheel
• RPS slave cylinder
• Clutch bleeder kit
• QuickTime SFI-approved bell housing
• The Driveshaft Shop "1000hp" 3.5" custom heavy duty aluminum driveshaft
• The Driveshaft Shop 12mm polyurethane driveshaft couplers
• Stock Z06 transmission/rear end
• MGW shifter and shift ****
• The Driveshaft Shop "1000hp" Level 5 axles
• East Coast Supercharging halfshaft safety loops
Brakes
• Brakes are stock Z06, with the below mods
• Carbotech 1521 one-piece pads
• Quantum Motorsports spindle ducts and cooling kit
• Doug Rippie Motorsports stainless steel brake lines
• Motul 660 fluid (used for clutch as well)
Other mods
• Pfadt sport shocks
• Elite Engineering 1/4" aluminum tunnel plate with "Thermal-Abs"
• Elite Engineering gas pedal and dead pedal
• GM European rear side marker lights (amber)
• VetteStripes ME3 stripe kit
• GM "427" hood emblems
• Michelin PS2 ZP tires
Also includes
• 3.7" pulley and belt
• HP Tuners and license
• Whatever spares I find around here
• Complete 2009 Service Manual set
• High-quality car cover
• Super-fancy custom-fitted fender covers, like they use in the factory
Pics, video, etc. to be posted below.
Terms of sale
Sold as-is, where-is (Sarasota, Florida). No warranty express or implied. Funds must clear before car leaves. Clear Florida title in my name. The car is on a lift and can be fully inspected top to bottom and underneath.
Dealing with me
I'm honest to a fault. I don't like BSers. At All. Any deposits are non-refundable. Strongly prefer email for initial discussions and questions, but will talk on phone when needed.
No tire-kickers. No time-wasters. No low-ballers. No "let me tinker with it and get it going". No "what'll you take for it". It's going to be sold, I want it gone, but I'm not in a particular hurry. It is priced to sell right now (the other sellers hate me) and you know it. It's a bargain.
If you have a problem with any of the above let's not waste each other's time.
Some earlier pics, when I first had the stripes done. Showing because they look great, and they're the best pics I have. Don't worry, recent pics coming.
Yeah, I read that but just wanted to make sure. In my book it's a hard sell as you can't even do a proper leak down or compression check on it. 500 miles with a bad tune is plenty of miles to wipe a motor. Can't verify condition of transmission, clutch, rear end or many other important things. As a buyer of a car not running you have to figure worst case scenario. Looks like a great car, why not bring it to another tuner and get it sorted out then sell for full price?
Can you give us more detail to what led up to it not running? Has any diagnostic been performed to try to diagnose the issue? What codes show up?
Yeah, I read that but just wanted to make sure. In my book it's a hard sell as you can't even do a proper leak down or compression check on it. 500 miles with a bad tune is plenty of miles to wipe a motor. Can't verify condition of transmission, clutch, rear end or many other important things. As a buyer of a car not running you have to figure worst case scenario. Looks like a great car, why not bring it to another tuner and get it sorted out then sell for full price?
Your post is furthering the sale how? Please stop.
Your post is furthering the sale how? Please stop.
Those are questions any person would/will be asking you. If I were interested in it my first question would be "why didn't this guy at least do a leak down/compression test?"...
Honestly, having that simple thing done will AID you selling the car. It will at least be a hint to the impending cost to repair for the perspective owner. You know whats in the car for $$$$, imagine being on the other side of you current situation trying to guess (not even an educated guess) at what high dollar parts will need replacing.
No ones giving you crap, trust me. I know how frustrating it is to sell high dollar stuff, frankly I hate it.
You've got one hell of a nice piece there, just help yourself out and maybe ease the mind of a prospected buyers. I think a little bit will go a long way for ya.
- Travis
PS....Props to whoever did the hard line routing. THATS the little stuff that sets a great car apart from a good car. The fact that someone put that much thought into a small part of the build speaks volumes about the rest of the build in my eyes.
Why can't you simply disclose what's wrong with the car, because so far what you're asking us to do is close our eyes and hand you over forty five thousand dollars.
I'll save you a lot of trouble by telling you NO on behalf of the entire forum.
Now, if selling the car is what you want, you've got to answer questions whether you like it or not. Based on your original post, you've made it sound like the car is an easy fix, but then you go on to avoid telling us exactly what's wrong with it, which suggests it's more than fixing the breather system, putting a new cooling fan in, and a retune.
What it SOUNDS like is the breather went on backwards, someone pumped oil into the intake, and hydrolocked the motor with oil.
If that's the (worst)case, the car needs a new motor and you've got a roller for sale with some nice parts on it.
I'm not trying to be a dick, but I need to know what I'm buying. You're going to sell the car and I'm going to buy a C6 ZO6, so help me understand what you're selling and maybe I'll buy it.
Wow, that's an awesome Z and an amazing build, but I completely agree with Big Top Gt (and the others)
You said yourself that you would sell it for $65k if it was running. That means it's not worth $20k and a much easier sell to you, for you to get it fixed?
Yet we are supposed to believe the fix is as easy as you claim?
10-24-2015, 05:15 PM
SOLD: FS: '09 Z06, FL, Fully Built LSX 427, ProCharger F1-A, 800-1000+ HP, $45k
