Dropped the car of today for procharger + forged LS7 buildup
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Dropped the car of today for procharger + forged LS7 buildup
I dropped off my 08 Z06 with 400 miles on the clock today at EPP.
Some highlights on the buildup...
Callies Dragonslayer LS7 crank
Oliver racing billet rods
Diamond forged low compression pistons
Ported LS7 heads
Blower cam specs TBD
F1C procharger at 16+ PSI
+ LOTS of supporting upgrades.
Some highlights on the buildup...
Callies Dragonslayer LS7 crank
Oliver racing billet rods
Diamond forged low compression pistons
Ported LS7 heads
Blower cam specs TBD
F1C procharger at 16+ PSI
+ LOTS of supporting upgrades.
#2
Sounds good, When do you expect the car to be all finished up? Curious to see what it puts out. Should be over 1krwhp on a nice safe tune.
Good luck, keep us posted!
Good luck, keep us posted!
#3
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
I hope that the car will be done by mid-June. Bob said about 4-6 weeks roughly on the car with the bulk of the down time being spent on block machine work and head porting.
Also, I keep adding more stuff to the list so that might increase the amount of time spent working on it. This project was originally supposed to start out as a procharger at 4.5 psi on the stock engine and that's all, lol.
We expect to reach 1,000 rwhp or very close to it. The 402 LS2 they built produced over 800 rwhp with less cubes, smaller cam and a smaller blower.
My goal was to build up a car that had good driveability, good reliability and could run 140+ all day long at the track. I think that we will reach that goal with plenty of room to spare.
EDIT: Oh I almost forgot, I special ordered a satin F1C blower instead of the polished one. That way there's no way the car will look modded when I lift the hood.
Last edited by Jorday; 04-29-2008 at 01:03 AM.
#4
Soooo......... what are you going to do for traction? There is no way, zero, nadda, impossible, to use that kind of power on the street. The car's AH and TC will be so overwhelmed that it will not offer any assistance. You will never be able to push the car near its handling limits because a little too much throttle and you're in the bushes. The drivetrain, specifically the differential case and axles, cannot survive under this much torque. Even if you tub the rear, there is only so much tire that can be stuffed under the rear fenders, and if you do that, the cars handling will be screwed. I'm sure that at high speed in 4th gear you'll get hugh wheel spin, which is damn dangerous. Dyno sheet wars? Yea, some guys have 1k horsepower, but the real question is how fast and safe is the car on the street? Big hp is worthless unless you can put it down, and with the IRS that's very doubtful. I see 500 hp cars outrun 1000 hp cars every weekend at the track. Maybe, I just don't get it? But big hp, IMO, is a sledge hammer approach to performance.
#5
Melting Slicks
Soooo......... what are you going to do for traction? There is no way, zero, nadda, impossible, to use that kind of power on the street. The car's AH and TC will be so overwhelmed that it will not offer any assistance. You will never be able to push the car near its handling limits because a little too much throttle and you're in the bushes. The drivetrain, specifically the differential case and axles, cannot survive under this much torque. Even if you tub the rear, there is only so much tire that can be stuffed under the rear fenders, and if you do that, the cars handling will be screwed. I'm sure that at high speed in 4th gear you'll get hugh wheel spin, which is damn dangerous. Dyno sheet wars? Yea, some guys have 1k horsepower, but the real question is how fast and safe is the car on the street? Big hp is worthless unless you can put it down, and with the IRS that's very doubtful. I see 500 hp cars outrun 1000 hp cars every weekend at the track. Maybe, I just don't get it? But big hp, IMO, is a sledge hammer approach to performance.
At 600rwhp on 19x13" 345's, the car is worthless on the street until about 50-60mph (depending on weather). My first mistake was ordering 19” wheels. I initially thought that Nitto was going to make a 19” DR, therefore I felt comfortable ordering the 19’s. Now, here I am 6 mos later and still trolling around on worthless PS2’s. I really wish I would have ordered 18x13” rims and put on a 345 DR- I’m still considering this, but after just purchasing 8k in wheels/tires its tough pill to swallow. I also think I could cut back on the boost/HP a little- maybe down to 550ish. I had a 530-550rwhp blown C5 with DR’s on it and it was unbeatable on the street- an absolute animal. I miss those days of “useable” HP. At 600 I’m having issues, I can’t fathom 1k.
As previously stated, everyone builds cars for different reasons and I fully respect that, but at 1k rwhp don’t expect any real world streetable results, maybe even track-friendly results-- Although it will yield some impressive numbers/dyno sheets.
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You are going to love your car! Bob and the boys will take great care of it, and when it's done you'll have a fire breathing monster on your hands.
I have some input they may be interested in regarding keeping all that power in check, I'll give them a call
Ed
I have some input they may be interested in regarding keeping all that power in check, I'll give them a call
Ed
#8
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Sounds like a BEAST!!! The list of parts is top notch... but, If you haven't ordered the pistions yet, weisco or J.E. would be a better choice (weisco being 1st) for not much more $ they have a far superior product. I know you said lots of supporting upgrades, are you adding an ALKY kit as one of them??? can't wait to see the build... Keep us posted!!!
#9
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Nice selection in parts. Weisco custom pistons are stronger, but be prepared to wait. Mine took 9 weeks. You may want to sell the engine as a complete take out then pick up ETLS7's or All Pro LS7's and a sleeved block. It will be a much stronger package. Don't forget about a clutch, fuel system, lifters and upgrading your rear end. Good luck with the build.
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Nice selection in parts. Weisco custom pistons are stronger, but be prepared to wait. Mine took 9 weeks. You may want to sell the engine as a complete take out then pick up ETLS7's or All Pro LS7's and a sleeved block. It will be a much stronger package. Don't forget about a clutch, fuel system, lifters and upgrading your rear end. Good luck with the build.
#12
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Soooo......... what are you going to do for traction? There is no way, zero, nadda, impossible, to use that kind of power on the street. The car's AH and TC will be so overwhelmed that it will not offer any assistance. You will never be able to push the car near its handling limits because a little too much throttle and you're in the bushes. The drivetrain, specifically the differential case and axles, cannot survive under this much torque. Even if you tub the rear, there is only so much tire that can be stuffed under the rear fenders, and if you do that, the cars handling will be screwed. I'm sure that at high speed in 4th gear you'll get hugh wheel spin, which is damn dangerous. Dyno sheet wars? Yea, some guys have 1k horsepower, but the real question is how fast and safe is the car on the street? Big hp is worthless unless you can put it down, and with the IRS that's very doubtful. I see 500 hp cars outrun 1000 hp cars every weekend at the track. Maybe, I just don't get it? But big hp, IMO, is a sledge hammer approach to performance.
I'm not planning on pushing the car to its handling limits so I'm not sure that will be a problem for me. I don't road race the car, either. I only like drag racing.
I agree that the stock differential, housing and axles will not stand up to this much power. Good thing we're not using any of them.
I would disagree that this buildup is nothing more than a dyno sheet war. After all, what's the harm in cranking up the boost to see what the car will do on the dyno if only a pulley swap is required even if I won't be running that boost level on the street?
I'm not sure if you are referring to road racing or drag racing when you say you see 500 hp cars beat 1000 hp cars every weekend. I don't expect to lose to too many 500 hp cars in the 1/4 mile, but I think that most would agree that any 500 hp car that's going to beat my car in the 1/4 mile would have to be so heavily set up for drag racing that it would be rendered plenty unstreetable.
There are certain situations when one might find the desire to apply WOT from a roll of, say, 70 mph. We will see how the ET streets do here. On the street, my buddy's Z with over 500 rwhp was unable to really break the ET streets loose even in 1st gear. 2nd gear with 500-600 rwhp on ET streets I think it would be pretty much impossible to spin the tires with only that power level. Another tire option is hoosier R6/A6 on stock wheels. I have heard from guys with 700 rwhp report that the car will hook on the street in 2nd gear when the tires are new and warmed up.
If you were looking to mod your Z for 1/4 mile performance, how would you do it?
To each their own, but I tend to agree with above....and to some degree, I'm guilty of having more of a dyno-car than a street car....unintentionally.
At 600rwhp on 19x13" 345's, the car is worthless on the street until about 50-60mph (depending on weather). My first mistake was ordering 19” wheels. I initially thought that Nitto was going to make a 19” DR, therefore I felt comfortable ordering the 19’s. Now, here I am 6 mos later and still trolling around on worthless PS2’s. I really wish I would have ordered 18x13” rims and put on a 345 DR- I’m still considering this, but after just purchasing 8k in wheels/tires its tough pill to swallow. I also think I could cut back on the boost/HP a little- maybe down to 550ish. I had a 530-550rwhp blown C5 with DR’s on it and it was unbeatable on the street- an absolute animal. I miss those days of “useable” HP. At 600 I’m having issues, I can’t fathom 1k.
As previously stated, everyone builds cars for different reasons and I fully respect that, but at 1k rwhp don’t expect any real world streetable results, maybe even track-friendly results-- Although it will yield some impressive numbers/dyno sheets.
At 600rwhp on 19x13" 345's, the car is worthless on the street until about 50-60mph (depending on weather). My first mistake was ordering 19” wheels. I initially thought that Nitto was going to make a 19” DR, therefore I felt comfortable ordering the 19’s. Now, here I am 6 mos later and still trolling around on worthless PS2’s. I really wish I would have ordered 18x13” rims and put on a 345 DR- I’m still considering this, but after just purchasing 8k in wheels/tires its tough pill to swallow. I also think I could cut back on the boost/HP a little- maybe down to 550ish. I had a 530-550rwhp blown C5 with DR’s on it and it was unbeatable on the street- an absolute animal. I miss those days of “useable” HP. At 600 I’m having issues, I can’t fathom 1k.
As previously stated, everyone builds cars for different reasons and I fully respect that, but at 1k rwhp don’t expect any real world streetable results, maybe even track-friendly results-- Although it will yield some impressive numbers/dyno sheets.
As I stated above, there will be a low boost setup for most driving conditions. It may very well be that case that I never find the need to turn the boose up to maximum which is ok. Even if we set out with a goal of 800 rwhp, most all of the components we selected for the buildup would be pretty much the same.
Sounds like a BEAST!!! The list of parts is top notch... but, If you haven't ordered the pistions yet, weisco or J.E. would be a better choice (weisco being 1st) for not much more $ they have a far superior product. I know you said lots of supporting upgrades, are you adding an ALKY kit as one of them??? can't wait to see the build... Keep us posted!!!
Nice selection in parts. Weisco custom pistons are stronger, but be prepared to wait. Mine took 9 weeks. You may want to sell the engine as a complete take out then pick up ETLS7's or All Pro LS7's and a sleeved block. It will be a much stronger package. Don't forget about a clutch, fuel system, lifters and upgrading your rear end. Good luck with the build.
As far as the Weisco pistons go, I know they offer a great product, but there is no way I'm waiting 2+ more months on a set of pistons. The car wouldn't end up being finished until late summer.
Thanks man.
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Jeremy
#14
#15
http://www.exoticperformanceplus.com...Car.php?car=26
This Corvette made 790 rwhp on my Mustang Chassis Dyno. It kept breaking the tires loose at 100 mph on the dyno, with two guys in the trunk, and another guy inside the rear. We also had two extra straps loading the car down as well.
Here is a video of the car in action.
http://video.google.com/url?docid=30...HCAO9kkY_gce6w
We built this Corvette about four years ago. It is back for an upgraded fuel system so we can up the boost even higher.
Apparently there are those who feel five to six hundred rwhp just isn't enough on the street! Bob
This Corvette made 790 rwhp on my Mustang Chassis Dyno. It kept breaking the tires loose at 100 mph on the dyno, with two guys in the trunk, and another guy inside the rear. We also had two extra straps loading the car down as well.
Here is a video of the car in action.
http://video.google.com/url?docid=30...HCAO9kkY_gce6w
We built this Corvette about four years ago. It is back for an upgraded fuel system so we can up the boost even higher.
Apparently there are those who feel five to six hundred rwhp just isn't enough on the street! Bob
#16
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
#17
Pro
Concerning traction, there was a 1100rwhp TT Viper up here at one of the charity meets and he was on Hoosier R6s. He was hooking left and right with those at 20mph rolls ...
... until he broke a half shaft.
... until he broke a half shaft.
#18
Are you sure they were R6's and not A6's?
Regardless, the main problem with those tires is the sand blasting effect because the tires are so sticky.
Plus when I was talking with someone about running A6's or R6's on my Viper, they said I should run them on all 4 corners or the car is going to handle funny in normal turns and normal driving conditions.
Regardless, the main problem with those tires is the sand blasting effect because the tires are so sticky.
Plus when I was talking with someone about running A6's or R6's on my Viper, they said I should run them on all 4 corners or the car is going to handle funny in normal turns and normal driving conditions.
#19
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Are you sure they were R6's and not A6's?
Regardless, the main problem with those tires is the sand blasting effect because the tires are so sticky.
Plus when I was talking with someone about running A6's or R6's on my Viper, they said I should run them on all 4 corners or the car is going to handle funny in normal turns and normal driving conditions.
Regardless, the main problem with those tires is the sand blasting effect because the tires are so sticky.
Plus when I was talking with someone about running A6's or R6's on my Viper, they said I should run them on all 4 corners or the car is going to handle funny in normal turns and normal driving conditions.
I've got a solution in mind to the sandblasting situation, but It's not like I'd be running around all the time on those tires either.
I'll try 'em on the back and see how they act with the regular tires on the front.
Technically, you're not supposed to run ET streets unless you have non radial tires up front too, but I've never had a problem.
I guess the best thing will be to just see what the car does when I get it back.
#20
Pro
I was also interested in building a 1000whp setup sometime in the future. Only problem is how would I put that down to the ground on the street.
Do you think the Hoosiers would do us good for such a setup?
Do you think the Hoosiers would do us good for such a setup?