Largest nitrous shot on the c6 zo6
09-26-2008, 08:35 PM
#2
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09-26-2008, 11:38 PM
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My z is at Kateck and they are building the motor to handle nitrous but they will not install it, i'm still debating how much to add and who can install it?
09-27-2008, 12:19 AM
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Where are you located? Do you mind shipping the car to an installer/tuner? and what are your goals for the car? (hp, street, track, etc...)
09-27-2008, 08:23 AM
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09-27-2008, 10:55 AM
#8
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believe it or not.... 300 shot on race fuel is the most I have seen first hand. Stock ls7 with bolt-ons, stock clutch.
It's a wet kit with a fogger.
Good luck... I wouldn't recommend something like that unless you really know how to treat the nitrous.
It's a wet kit with a fogger.
Good luck... I wouldn't recommend something like that unless you really know how to treat the nitrous.
09-27-2008, 02:00 PM
#10
I had a heads/cam/header setup that made 560/520 that I sprayed a 175 shot on. All of this was on a stock bottom end. This combo netted well over 900 ft. Lbs of torque [on the spray] - and all on a stock fuel system! It lasted quite a while - never had a moments trouble with it (talking over 10K miles and sprayed it regularly!)! When I decided to upgrade it was still running strong!
The trick that made it last? Stainless exhaust valve upgrade (I'm afraid the stock valve couldn't take the heat!- this is just my tested, verified, and educated opinion!), 23 degrees of overall timing and at least 93 octane at all times (no 91 crap like they have out West). Oh, and I always use a wet shot (I'm not looking to start a debate here. It's MY preference and I've always had VERY good luck with it - and it's just easier for me to tune!).
To put this level of power into perspective, it would sit next to a 'busa (with a 170 Lbs skilled rider) from a 60 - 160 run. That's a LOT of acceleration!
Oh, and I never ran the car on anything more than a drag radial and it never saw the strip - so the stock clutch was fine. However, I imagine the clutch would have been gone after ONE pass at the strip at that power level.
If I had it to do over again, I'd probably have tried 24-24.5 Degrees of overall timing with methanol being injected in the fuel side of the fogger nozzle (fuel jetting doubled, of course). Probably could have made 20-30 more RWHP and would have been just as safe if not more safe!
It's probably a fair statement to say that Mr. Big and I are in the top 5 on this forum as far as folks who have pushed the limits on the stock bottom-end and know what will last and what won't! If you need any further help or advice, then feel free to PM!
Please let us know what path you choose!
The trick that made it last? Stainless exhaust valve upgrade (I'm afraid the stock valve couldn't take the heat!- this is just my tested, verified, and educated opinion!), 23 degrees of overall timing and at least 93 octane at all times (no 91 crap like they have out West). Oh, and I always use a wet shot (I'm not looking to start a debate here. It's MY preference and I've always had VERY good luck with it - and it's just easier for me to tune!).
To put this level of power into perspective, it would sit next to a 'busa (with a 170 Lbs skilled rider) from a 60 - 160 run. That's a LOT of acceleration!
Oh, and I never ran the car on anything more than a drag radial and it never saw the strip - so the stock clutch was fine. However, I imagine the clutch would have been gone after ONE pass at the strip at that power level.
If I had it to do over again, I'd probably have tried 24-24.5 Degrees of overall timing with methanol being injected in the fuel side of the fogger nozzle (fuel jetting doubled, of course). Probably could have made 20-30 more RWHP and would have been just as safe if not more safe!
It's probably a fair statement to say that Mr. Big and I are in the top 5 on this forum as far as folks who have pushed the limits on the stock bottom-end and know what will last and what won't! If you need any further help or advice, then feel free to PM!
Please let us know what path you choose!
Last edited by EdwardETraylorIII; 09-27-2008 at 02:04 PM.
09-27-2008, 02:38 PM
#11
I had a heads/cam/header setup that made 560/520 that I sprayed a 175 shot on. All of this was on a stock bottom end. This combo netted well over 900 ft. Lbs of torque [on the spray] - and all on a stock fuel system! It lasted quite a while - never had a moments trouble with it (talking over 10K miles and sprayed it regularly!)! When I decided to upgrade it was still running strong!
The trick that made it last? Stainless exhaust valve upgrade (I'm afraid the stock valve couldn't take the heat!- this is just my tested, verified, and educated opinion!), 23 degrees of overall timing and at least 93 octane at all times (no 91 crap like they have out West). Oh, and I always use a wet shot (I'm not looking to start a debate here. It's MY preference and I've always had VERY good luck with it - and it's just easier for me to tune!).
To put this level of power into perspective, it would sit next to a 'busa (with a 170 Lbs skilled rider) from a 60 - 160 run. That's a LOT of acceleration!
Oh, and I never ran the car on anything more than a drag radial and it never saw the strip - so the stock clutch was fine. However, I imagine the clutch would have been gone after ONE pass at the strip at that power level.
If I had it to do over again, I'd probably have tried 24-24.5 Degrees of overall timing with methanol being injected in the fuel side of the fogger nozzle (fuel jetting doubled, of course). Probably could have made 20-30 more RWHP and would have been just as safe if not more safe!
It's probably a fair statement to say that Mr. Big and I are in the top 5 on this forum as far as folks who have pushed the limits on the stock bottom-end and know what will last and what won't! If you need any further help or advice, then feel free to PM!
Please let us know what path you choose!
The trick that made it last? Stainless exhaust valve upgrade (I'm afraid the stock valve couldn't take the heat!- this is just my tested, verified, and educated opinion!), 23 degrees of overall timing and at least 93 octane at all times (no 91 crap like they have out West). Oh, and I always use a wet shot (I'm not looking to start a debate here. It's MY preference and I've always had VERY good luck with it - and it's just easier for me to tune!).
To put this level of power into perspective, it would sit next to a 'busa (with a 170 Lbs skilled rider) from a 60 - 160 run. That's a LOT of acceleration!
Oh, and I never ran the car on anything more than a drag radial and it never saw the strip - so the stock clutch was fine. However, I imagine the clutch would have been gone after ONE pass at the strip at that power level.
If I had it to do over again, I'd probably have tried 24-24.5 Degrees of overall timing with methanol being injected in the fuel side of the fogger nozzle (fuel jetting doubled, of course). Probably could have made 20-30 more RWHP and would have been just as safe if not more safe!
It's probably a fair statement to say that Mr. Big and I are in the top 5 on this forum as far as folks who have pushed the limits on the stock bottom-end and know what will last and what won't! If you need any further help or advice, then feel free to PM!
Please let us know what path you choose!
09-27-2008, 04:29 PM
#12
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Thanks for the info thats a lot of help, any idea what the highest shot on a built engine would be and still be in the safe zone. I heard of some 400 shot z but never seen the results, that might not be a good sign.
09-27-2008, 04:34 PM
#13
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St. Jude Donor '08-'09
I had a heads/cam/header setup that made 560/520 that I sprayed a 175 shot on. All of this was on a stock bottom end. This combo netted well over 900 ft. Lbs of torque [on the spray] - and all on a stock fuel system! It lasted quite a while - never had a moments trouble with it (talking over 10K miles and sprayed it regularly!)! When I decided to upgrade it was still running strong!
The trick that made it last? Stainless exhaust valve upgrade (I'm afraid the stock valve couldn't take the heat!- this is just my tested, verified, and educated opinion!), 23 degrees of overall timing and at least 93 octane at all times (no 91 crap like they have out West). Oh, and I always use a wet shot (I'm not looking to start a debate here. It's MY preference and I've always had VERY good luck with it - and it's just easier for me to tune!).
To put this level of power into perspective, it would sit next to a 'busa (with a 170 Lbs skilled rider) from a 60 - 160 run. That's a LOT of acceleration!
Oh, and I never ran the car on anything more than a drag radial and it never saw the strip - so the stock clutch was fine. However, I imagine the clutch would have been gone after ONE pass at the strip at that power level.
If I had it to do over again, I'd probably have tried 24-24.5 Degrees of overall timing with methanol being injected in the fuel side of the fogger nozzle (fuel jetting doubled, of course). Probably could have made 20-30 more RWHP and would have been just as safe if not more safe!
It's probably a fair statement to say that Mr. Big and I are in the top 5 on this forum as far as folks who have pushed the limits on the stock bottom-end and know what will last and what won't! If you need any further help or advice, then feel free to PM!
Please let us know what path you choose!
The trick that made it last? Stainless exhaust valve upgrade (I'm afraid the stock valve couldn't take the heat!- this is just my tested, verified, and educated opinion!), 23 degrees of overall timing and at least 93 octane at all times (no 91 crap like they have out West). Oh, and I always use a wet shot (I'm not looking to start a debate here. It's MY preference and I've always had VERY good luck with it - and it's just easier for me to tune!).
To put this level of power into perspective, it would sit next to a 'busa (with a 170 Lbs skilled rider) from a 60 - 160 run. That's a LOT of acceleration!
Oh, and I never ran the car on anything more than a drag radial and it never saw the strip - so the stock clutch was fine. However, I imagine the clutch would have been gone after ONE pass at the strip at that power level.
If I had it to do over again, I'd probably have tried 24-24.5 Degrees of overall timing with methanol being injected in the fuel side of the fogger nozzle (fuel jetting doubled, of course). Probably could have made 20-30 more RWHP and would have been just as safe if not more safe!
It's probably a fair statement to say that Mr. Big and I are in the top 5 on this forum as far as folks who have pushed the limits on the stock bottom-end and know what will last and what won't! If you need any further help or advice, then feel free to PM!
Please let us know what path you choose!
09-27-2008, 07:52 PM
#14
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Nos
Running an NOS 150 shot on my LS3 with Edelbrock progressive. Stock A6 with Halltech,V Max ported throttle body and AR headers. Best dyno run was 544RWHP and 563 Torque. Progressive with window switch is an awesome set up. Pics of install are in this section farther back.
09-27-2008, 08:30 PM
#15
Melting Slicks
That sounds like a easy task with a katech 400+cube setup.
Id say a 100 or 150 would get you 140+ for sure.
only kits I will use is TNT
http://www.nitrous-power.com/
order up a f1 kit if your planning on less than 200 shot. f2 kit if your going bigger than that.
I beleive there is a tuner in your area but if you want to make the drive (I would its worth it) come down to long island, NY and go to the
www.vettedoctors.com for tuning and install of the kit.
good luck
09-28-2008, 12:32 PM
#16
Everyone has their own preference for type of shot (wet vs. dry) and brand of kit. I prefer wet and NX. (NX's warranty support is off the charts good!)
As to the question about how much to spray on a built engine.... Tough to say... but with race gas, supporting fuel system, the right tune and compression (Again, ON A BUILT ENGINE) - 400-500 is POSSIBLE... But certainly not my cup of tea! Oh, and I surely wouldn't spray that much all at once! It would most certainly need to be staged for parts longevity!
As to the question about how much to spray on a built engine.... Tough to say... but with race gas, supporting fuel system, the right tune and compression (Again, ON A BUILT ENGINE) - 400-500 is POSSIBLE... But certainly not my cup of tea! Oh, and I surely wouldn't spray that much all at once! It would most certainly need to be staged for parts longevity!
09-29-2008, 02:20 PM
#17
Burning Brakes
Since your car is in good hands at Katech with Jason, Im certain you are getting a great set up for your engine. I would want to know the specifications of the cylinder heads, and the bottem end to give you a good idea of how much nitrious you would run.
We have done 150hp NX wet kits on several stock motor LS7 cars, with wonderful results! We have also done a *hush hush* direct port car which is what I would recommend to you on your build from the sounds of it.
We have done multiple direct port cars with 300 progressive shots, netting into the 800 - 900 -1000 horsepower range! (not specifically in a Z06 but it all works the same once you have installed the right components)
If you would like more detail I would be happy to discuss your options. We use NX products, and my recommendation would be for a NX driect port set-up 200 -250 shot on a progressive controller will net you a 9 second quarter mile with 140 mph. I would also like to know the cam specs of the engine.
Also we are very close with Katech, in location, and also a distributor of theres, so if you would like to feel comfortable with a reputable company installing your nitrious set up we would gladly take on your project. (Maybe you could push some records similar to our other z06s which are currently the fastest to street driven C6s in the country! going into the 160 mph trap speeds and ets of 9.30's)
-Cheers
Brandon
We have done 150hp NX wet kits on several stock motor LS7 cars, with wonderful results! We have also done a *hush hush* direct port car which is what I would recommend to you on your build from the sounds of it.
We have done multiple direct port cars with 300 progressive shots, netting into the 800 - 900 -1000 horsepower range! (not specifically in a Z06 but it all works the same once you have installed the right components)
If you would like more detail I would be happy to discuss your options. We use NX products, and my recommendation would be for a NX driect port set-up 200 -250 shot on a progressive controller will net you a 9 second quarter mile with 140 mph. I would also like to know the cam specs of the engine.
Also we are very close with Katech, in location, and also a distributor of theres, so if you would like to feel comfortable with a reputable company installing your nitrious set up we would gladly take on your project. (Maybe you could push some records similar to our other z06s which are currently the fastest to street driven C6s in the country! going into the 160 mph trap speeds and ets of 9.30's)
-Cheers
Brandon
Last edited by IPS Motorsports; 09-29-2008 at 02:36 PM.
09-29-2008, 03:31 PM
#18
140mph shouldn't be that hard. I trapped 138 with headers, cold air kit and a 125hp shot. Hopefully this week I'll be testing out the new combination. I'll let you know how it goes.
If I had a budget to build a dedicated nitrous engine, it would be sitting at Kurt Urban Performance. My second choice would be HKE. No knock on Katech, but Kurt and Erik have built some high horsepower combinations and they know how to keep them together.
If I had a budget to build a dedicated nitrous engine, it would be sitting at Kurt Urban Performance. My second choice would be HKE. No knock on Katech, but Kurt and Erik have built some high horsepower combinations and they know how to keep them together.
09-29-2008, 09:52 PM
#20
Premium Supporting Vendor
Since your car is in good hands at Katech with Jason, Im certain you are getting a great set up for your engine. I would want to know the specifications of the cylinder heads, and the bottem end to give you a good idea of how much nitrious you would run.
We have done 150hp NX wet kits on several stock motor LS7 cars, with wonderful results! We have also done a *hush hush* direct port car which is what I would recommend to you on your build from the sounds of it.
We have done multiple direct port cars with 300 progressive shots, netting into the 800 - 900 -1000 horsepower range! (not specifically in a Z06 but it all works the same once you have installed the right components)
If you would like more detail I would be happy to discuss your options. We use NX products, and my recommendation would be for a NX driect port set-up 200 -250 shot on a progressive controller will net you a 9 second quarter mile with 140 mph. I would also like to know the cam specs of the engine.
Also we are very close with Katech, in location, and also a distributor of theres, so if you would like to feel comfortable with a reputable company installing your nitrious set up we would gladly take on your project. (Maybe you could push some records similar to our other z06s which are currently the fastest to street driven C6s in the country! going into the 160 mph trap speeds and ets of 9.30's)
-Cheers
Brandon
We have done 150hp NX wet kits on several stock motor LS7 cars, with wonderful results! We have also done a *hush hush* direct port car which is what I would recommend to you on your build from the sounds of it.
We have done multiple direct port cars with 300 progressive shots, netting into the 800 - 900 -1000 horsepower range! (not specifically in a Z06 but it all works the same once you have installed the right components)
If you would like more detail I would be happy to discuss your options. We use NX products, and my recommendation would be for a NX driect port set-up 200 -250 shot on a progressive controller will net you a 9 second quarter mile with 140 mph. I would also like to know the cam specs of the engine.
Also we are very close with Katech, in location, and also a distributor of theres, so if you would like to feel comfortable with a reputable company installing your nitrious set up we would gladly take on your project. (Maybe you could push some records similar to our other z06s which are currently the fastest to street driven C6s in the country! going into the 160 mph trap speeds and ets of 9.30's)
-Cheers
Brandon
Considering that I trapped at 132mph, it won't take much at all to trap above 140mph. By my calculations you'll need about a 110hp shot to break 140mph. Our recently designed nitrous piston is quite beefy, and I wouldn't be too scared running a 200 shot on it. It could take more than that, but we won't be doing any distructive testing on the dyno.
