csnow

I am just curious if the maggie SC has the same propensity to throw belts like the centri SC. I know alignment is key but overall, which has less issues.

BornSUPERCHARGED

If it's properly aligned the centri shouldn't throw belts. Mine went 9k without throwing a belt, though the A/C belt did snap once.

PowerLabs

I've never seen a belt get thrown in 45K supercharged miles, but I saw one jump ribs before; the pulley was misaligned.
This was on a centri.

csnow

Yours throws rods, not belts....lol

When I was first looking to go SC, the installer advised that one of the drawbacks of SC vs NA was belts (long trips and the possibility of getting stranded). He was pushing me toward SC but I was just nervous of going SC on a stock bottom end so I went H/C/I to start with. I keep toying with the idea of a SC, but I need to get a built 402 bottom end before I go down that road.

BornSUPERCHARGED

My s/c didn't throw the rods, my stock LS2 did

Honestly I think it may have happened sooner with a heat pump on my engine vs. the centri. The temps would've been higher for longer, more stress earlier on and I just can't see it outlasting the centri.

BornSUPERCHARGED

If your serpentine belt breaks on a long trip NA, you're still stranded Not exactly something that only the supercharger affects.

Some people advise it's cheaper to get another stock block instead of building a block up, so they'd recommend you drive your current engine into the ground, then when it does put another stock block in and repeat the process for as long as you've got the car. 3 years@10k miles a year, assuming each stock engine lasts 30k miles, I think you'd spend about the same for 2 more stock engines vs. 1 built engine. If a built engine lasts 6yr/60k miles, and stock last 30k each.. no difference. But then there's the issues like I had, where it lasted 9k supercharged miles. In that case, sure it probably was a premature failure and should've lasted longer, but to me I'd rather pony up a bit now to build it up, and try not to drive the **** out of it and try not to be as stupid as I was before. I ain't saying I'll drive like grandpa (no offense ol' farts ), but I'm not going to do 185mph+ runs anymore either or act like every time the light turns green, it's my queue to race to 100 .

old motorhead

I have over 100K on several different Maggies. One did throw a belt when the blower pulley was put on a$$ backwards (misaligned big time). Other than that, no belt troubles. I fail to see what the alleged high IAT's have to do with belt wear.

musclecar6

I have 30,000 on my 06 C6 with a maggie & 4,000 on my 10 GS with a maggie. No problems whatsoever including throwing of belts( course Lingenfelter did the installs, so you know it was done right)

aTX427

throwing belts is not an issue with the C6 kits unless it's misaligned.

bosco 08

Assuming you carry a spare belt and the proper hand tools can the belts on a centri or Edelbrock supercharger be replaced with reasonable effort if the worst happens on a road trip?

Thanks.

MARSC6

I don't know about Edelbrock but there is no way I could change a belt without lifting the front end.

LS1LT1

Especially when using an HPE Flip Drive from Cartek.

Motorhead-47

Yes to the Edelbrock...about the same level of effort as changing the belt on a stock car. The Edelbrock uses a spring loaded tensioner...one wrench is all that is needed to unload the tensioner. The Edelbrock belt is a common 6 rib that is 101.5 inches long..."061015" will be in the belt part number. Everywhere I checked stocked that belt.

Supercharger belts lead a hard life..probably wouldn't hurt to change it once a year anyhow. Belts come in different grades/qualities..don't go cheap and put the old belt in the car for a "just in case" spare.

MARSC6

Can you actually get the belt around the crank pulley without going underneath the car? I just put a centri belt back on after polishing the alternator bracket and I could barely get my arm in to put the belt back around the water pump pulley.

LT1GMC

If you have some skills, and a flashlight, a coathanger with a flat 90 bend on the end can help string that belt around the balancer and thru the other areas. Also, if you trim a bit of head thickness off of the one water pump bolt that is across from the idler pulley on an A&A kit, you can change the belt without removing the blower. (gotta remove the one slotted pulley deal and one bolt/spacer though)

old motorhead

The belt life will be greatly influenced by load/boost.

aTX427

For sure. I can change a belt in less than 5 minutes using basic hand tool if/when necessary.

liveaboard74

Have the M-82 on the Saturn Sky cranking out the revs at 16 psi with 390 gears and its been on there for almost 2 years now. Same belt with zero problems. Gaterback belts are what most run on the maggies. Can't help you on the A&A but I would guess they are running the same. 112 on the vette and other than the first week wiping off the hood she's running fine..
Don't let the fear of a belt stop you. Just make sure you have someone that knows what they are doing on the install.

MARSC6

On the ECS kit I have nothing has to be removed but I can't get my arm under the air dam and it takes some effort to get the belt between the balancer and tensioner.

DOUG @ ECS

That is yet another advantage to the ECS kit being that a belt can be installed in minutes without disassembling anything, and we have recently changed out our tensioner body to have a 3/8s drive hole in it so the entire job can be done without lifting the car up at all. However, I personally like that you do not run into belt problems in the first place!




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