Rich_562

Simply put, how much can a C6 2011 A6 take? Don't want to change the fuel pump. Too hard to do. Can anyone answer this? How much can the lower end, tranny and rear end take? Surely someone knows these simple questions. What tires will I need to run this simple setup?

This can't be a first time setup. This is a beginner setup. Help a beginner. Most curious in what the stock drive train will handle.

The questions you think are stupid are important to us. Clue us in.

C6GrandSport10

Whats the setup first?

Robls6

It depends on how hard you drive it. There are plenty of 580+ rwhp cars running around with stock clutches that last thousands of miles without problems. I on the other hand broke my transmission mainshaft with stock runflat tires and the stock LS7 clutch and 570rwhp. I think the previous owner had some wheelhop issues with it at the track (he admitted to drag racing it several times). Wheel hop is the number 1 killer of driveline parts. As long as you are easy with the car out of the hole, things should be fine for a long time. Keep in mind that $hit can always happen though.

lockman

there are people running around with 730 rwhp also without an issue. just depends on how hard you drive it really and if you get wheel hop that will kill the drive train quick.

TrenAman

it depends on traction IMO, StreetFast here is pushing almost 800rwhp on a stock A6 but he has run flats.. if he had MT 345's, he would not have a stock tranny. Also, depends if you drive on the highway in 6th gear then hammer it all the time dropping you from 6th to 2nd gear. To many variables.. if you like the occasional sprint around town, IMO 600rwhp on a tuned A6 should be good..

Rich_562

The setup is a stock 2011 GS with an A6.

Rich_562

Thanks for all the posts and pm's from those that didn't want to get into a debate. It seems 550ish is the limit. Thanks.

TRINIC5

I am the owner of a 2008 C6 LS3 and is making 860rwhp, but I am not stock now, before upgrading my drivetrain and motor I was making 738rwhp with a stock bottom end and stock drivetrain, it did not last long so I probably can say how safe it might be stock.

Now I would recomend a safe 700rwhp with everything stock, a supercharger kit usually come with a Boost a pump which will help boost up the fuel pump (its a killer to the pump after a while) and help with your fuel supply, the stock block can handle the power safely and the A6 will handle it for a while also, now for durability and long lasting you can be more safe by doing a supercharger kit with less boost and safely make around 600rwhp, that will last forever without any future issues, to do so you can add a supercharger kit with a conservative tune and low boost (meaning around 9 lbs), the A6 and drivetrain will handle it and the motor will handle it.
There will be alot of advicers that might try to lead you to try more things but I am only saying from my experience and 600rwhp with a set of good tires do very well on the street.

My advice will be to get a supercharger of your choice, like an ECS Novi 1500 kit or a A&A kit which will do exactly what I described, you can buy a set of American Racing Headers 1 3/4" and the stock exhaust, a boosta pump with the kit and a tune for both the transimission and the supercharger and you are as good as recomended. You will need a set of wheels, MT 345 30 18 fo the rear or a set of Nitto's, some might recomend a converter but I believe there are no reason to do so if it work good, if your intension is to drag race then it is recomended.

Best of luck with your new search for power and enjoy it while it last, remember, life is short so enjoy it before its too late.

mrgillies

Great comments, Im going the e-force route (599hp) with LG Superpros 1 7/8" headers, so my "conservative" 550 rwhp shouldnt cause my engine tranny too much stress on normal driving with a few sprited runs

Vetter 1

ECS Novi 1500 w/meth., 1 7/8 American Racing Headers (Jet Hot), ECS tune for 9 PSI with stock A6 and 2.73s 615/595
Best 10.37@138.30 1.73 60' on M/T 305/35/18 drag radials.

This is from Cecil County Dragway last October 10.49@138.86
Click on photo

TRINIC5

The kit you're choosing is not that bad but the Century kit is always safer and better than your chose, reason is the Intake air Temp. will be higher with the e-force which will not be good for sprited drives, not that I am saying not to do it but expect to have to stay back to allow the oil temp and water temp to cool down, compare to an air intercooler century blower.
I am not saying anything bad just be carefull and study the e-force properly before deciding to complete the deal for the purpose of having sprited drives..

Rich_562

You guys do give great info. So, far I added a full with rear spoiler. That is matching color of course. Got those windows tinted too. So, I'm already faster.

I think I have enough info to make up my mind. I certainly won't be the fastest, but my car will be more fun.

Thanks people.

richgoat

Boost is boost, no one can guarantee even less than 600whp won't blow up your car. Don't ask me how I know

That being said, boost sure is fun!

Motorhead-47

I strongly disagree strongly with your statement..."stay back to let oil temps and water temps cool down"? That claim is way out there! I live in the deep south, the car gets regular "sprited drives" as you call them and I've never had either a water temp nor an oil temp anywhere but 100% right in the middle of NORMAL! I can't recall the last time I saw a water temp about 210 degrees and this supercharger has been on my car for over a year. The oil temps are so boring I don't even bother to monitor them any more.

What is the source of the information you are using for that claim? It sounds like the beginning of another urban legend.

I believe it is you sir who should go do some homework.

P.S....it's not "Century"...it's "centri" as in centrifugal...

mrgillies

Great comment, Being in phoenix there may be an issue temperature with IAT, I do however like the broad torque curve rtthe Edelbrock produces. I do not forsee me going further than 550 RWHPH I do however look for further options achieve my goal.

Rich_562

mrgillies,
I just wanted to be sure that you also read Motorhead-47's post. He probably knows as much about the eforce as anyone. I have people telling me about the eforce that has never seen one and people telling me about the centris that have never seen one. The best I can do is research the person making the comments on the equipment as much as anything. Some know centris, some know pd and some know both.

It's hard to get two people to decide on how many sides of a coin there are. There are 3 btw.

0C_Williams@RPM

how true ....but there are 4 sides

breecher_7

As you very well know I know the Centri and PD blower game pretty damn well.

As well as the turbo route.

Out of the three, for cost effectivness, ease of power, and room for expandability. You cannot beat a A&A or ECS kit. Thats the bottom line.

Pound per pound of boost a centri will make more power due to the lower temps.

Feel free to compare results of stock LS3 vettes on this forum running both basic A&A kits/ECS Kits vs Edelbrock kits. Just do a search and you will find all you need to know. You will NOT find results from either of those centri kits producing less then 550 rwhp on a rock stock LS3 unless the owner specifically wanted less power. There are several of them with exhaust only over 600rwhp.

PD's are great if you dont have high expectations. There fun as hell on the street with the ability to nuke the tires at any rpm. But I'll never purchase one again and ive personally owned 3 different pd blown cars and have been fighting with a highly modified one now for over 3 years.

Just choose wisely.

AND, to get back on your original question. Id stop at about 550rwhp using a BAP. I dont like BAP's, but if you dont want to change your pump its your best option. Id also run a racetronix pump harness, powers the pump directly off the alternator and has provisions to work with a BAP.

Rich_562

Cha-ching, I finally get it. You know what they say, "beat a blind squirrel in the head with a stick long enough and you'll make him eat his nuts".

As it stands now the "fun as hell on the streets" of the eforce is tempting.

Seems even the centri is limited by fuel. I take it to upgrade the centri you change the pulley and add fuel to get to 700-800 rwhp? What does that consist of cost wise?

You taught me this far.

breecher_7

With a centri increasing power is rather simple. The first step is selecting a head unit from the get go that meets the goals you are setting. But after that, yes, its a simple matter of a different pulley, more fuel (fuel system that will support it, pumps and injectors), the addition of methanol to your tune, and praying your bottom end stays together! (unless you build a forged engine). There are quite a few stock block LS3's in the 700rwhp range, would I call it reliable? **** no... But some have managed to turn that power for quite some time. But a Centri kit will effortlessly make 600rwhp out of the box.

Like i said, research it, do what sounds good to you.