QTR-Z06

Turbo fans !!!

I wanted your thoughts on this

Would you prefer using a "Garrat turbo" unit instead of a "Turbonotics Turbo" unit?

The Garrats are top in the industry .. not saying that Turbonotics aren't

but I was just wondering

-Moe

vrybad

Personally, I'd use whatever TTiX supplies with the kit, but I think it would be a good choice to add the water cooled option to the turbos, if possible.
I've always felt that for a street driven car, water cooling is a big plus and can add longevity to the turbos.
Might cost a bit more for additional lines and fittings, but I'd have it no other way.
Now, if they can supply Garrett's to fit, then it is an option to consider, but I would certainly use the Turbonetics, too.

QTR-Z06

I see, I would definitely ask the garage to have a water cooler installed for the turbos

thanks for pointing that out man

QTR-Z06

Thanks guys for all your help .. I guess I'm going for turbos after all

vrybad

First, you need to specify to Turbo Technologies that you want the turbos set up to accept water cooling.
I believe there are two types of housings available, a "dry" and a "wet".

What they do is tap into the cooling locations on the side of each cylinder head, and create a "loop" for the coolant, in and out of each turbo, using the coolant flow path thru the engine.

Similar to the way the APS TT kit is designed.

They can use braided teflon hose and AN fittings to put it all together.

It will add some cost to the setup.

MGJ07C6

It will add some cost to the set up but it is well worth it. Anything to keep the underhood temps down on Turbo C6's is money well spent.

QTR-Z06

definitely asking for the wet one

SpinMonster

I hope people's knowledge of cars is higher than hifi here.

My wires cost more than my engine.

My stereo cost more than my corvette mods and all.

I never go by 'worth it' judgements because most people would say spending 15k in mods on a car isn't 'worth it'.

Drewstein

I know you don't like hearing about every time you get taken, but this is the sad truth. You got ripped off. http://www.roger-russell.com/wire/wire.htm

Oh and - $1Mil challenge

APSGTO

In my oppinion get the turbo manifolds and the down pipes coated to keep the heat down in the engine bay. I had the bottom mount APS design and thought engine bay temps would be fine. They weren't. Got the manifolds coated first. Then the down pipes. Huge temp drop in the engine bay after each.

Part of the problem was 110 degree Sacramento summer heat and traffic. If your going to see +90 degree days and want ice cold A/C then coat all your hot parts.

Brake boosting is key to taking the "off the hit" advantage of a N/A or S/C away. It takes practice and will take a big toll on your brakes but works wonder.

PM sent of video proof of how effective brake boosting can be.

vrybad

I've used "Jet Hot 2000" in the past and it was a good investment to keep underhood temps down.

Z_Rocks

Thank you Sir!!!

Z_Rocks

Excellent choice. Just make sure the turbos are ball bearings. If Frans doing the work, then you're in good hands!

QTR-Z06

I'm really glad

but it kinda sucks that the whole build up takes a while

hopefully i'll be gone for a month and the car will be nice and running

MGJ07C6

I believe the TTI kit with the upgrade precision turbos is full ball bearing.

APSGTO

If your getting the motor built/fuel system/twin turbo install at the same time expect multiple months down time.

PowerLabs

I wasn't going to say anything, but electrical resistance is electrical resistance: R = rho (l/A) (Resitance equals resistivity for the material times the length over the cross sectional area of the wire). Electrical power companies transmit hundreds of megawatts of power through cheapo Aluminum cable, not because Aluminum is a particularly good conductor but because it is far more cost effective than copper, and you can increase the conductor diameter to get the same overall losses as a copper wire of slightly less diameter (OK, fine, Al is also a better conductor than copper on a per mass basis . The only thing that really matters in audio cable after a basic minimal diameter has been met is that you have good clean connections since that's where most of the losses come from (contact resistance). I mean, nothing wrong with spending thousands of dollars on wire, but it is no more necessary than encrusting your volume **** with diamonds

Oh, and TTix all the way. If cost were no object I would do turbos.

Frans96ss

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PTKaopR89oQ



Blue line is with factory catback installed. Red is with Open X-pipe.

FactoryRaceCar

^^^ me like!

QTR-Z06

Me like more