OFFICIAL A&A SUPERCHARGERS Q&A thread
01-02-2016, 11:07 AM
#681
Drifting
Of course, if you're just staying with a mild tune and boost level then you really don't need the gauges at all. Sometimes it is nice to stay stealthy - I did so with my GS, and never found that I missed having the gauge to look at.
01-09-2016, 06:07 PM
#682
Advanced
Member Since: Oct 2007
Location: Gilroy Ca.
Posts: 71
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
My A&A Supercharger is not legal in california
SPECIAL NOTICE: As of 4-1-2013 A&A Superchargers now offers 50 State legal systems for all years and models of C5 and C6 Corvettes! C.A.R.B. # D-707 makes our base systems legal for sale and installation in California and all states adopting California emissions regulations.
A&A Superchargers is now sponsoring the C6 Forced induction section as we have the C5 Forced induction section for many years. http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-f...-a-thread.html
We want this section, and this thread particularly, to be informative and interesting for all those interested in Forced Induction.
Feel free to ask questions of us or other members here. As in our C5 thread, you will find a wealth of information as the thread develops.
A&A Superchargers is a division of A&A Corvette Performance. We have been Corvette Forum members since 2001 and sponsors since 2003.
We manufacture and distribute the A&A Supercharger system through our network of dealers as as well as on a retail basis through our website and our retail store.
We are a Vortech authorized manufacturer of supercharger systems for C5 and C6 Corvette utilizing their head units. All design work and assembly of the A&A supercharger system is performed at our facility near Oxnard California.
With over 2000 systems built, we have learned a lot over the last few years and this knowledge is reflected in the final product. We are always looking at ways to improve the efficiency and value of our products.
Our intercooler design is innovative and unprescedented. After much testing with smoke generators we found that a good portion the ambient airflow would actually hit the front of the intercooler and just “roll” over the sides. We are the only manufacturer to implement aluminum side plates on our intercoolers that capture this air and prevent this. The top seam of the intercooler is flush up against the frame which stops any air from going up and over the intercooler. The bottom of the intercooler has a duckbill that seals the area between the intercooler and the front facia. This stops air that goes through the grill opening from escaping below the interooler. 100% of the actual intercooler core is exposed to frontal airflow. None of this area is hidden behind the frame of the vehicle. These innovations made a huge difference in intercooler efficiency.
Airflow management is the key to an efficient supercharger system.
We use CNC laser cut aluminum panels to enclose the radiator area for efficient cooling and aesthetics.
Our bracketry is now manufactured from 1” thick 6061 aluminum bar stock and machined on BOTH down to it’s 5/8” final dimension. This is the only way to make sure the final product is completely flat and dimensionally to specification.
We are the only manufacturer to utilize 5 ply silicone hoses with articulated bends for clearance around the sway bar, skid bar assembly and for proper intercooler entry without kinks. These are important features that ease installation as well as promote efficient airflow.
Our tubing is CNC bent, bead rolled and polished (or black annodized) for a professional look and to assure that hoses will not blow off under pressure.
We invite you to download our instructions to get a good overview of how the system is designed and how well the different parts integrate into a complete system. We have gone to great lengths to make sure we have the highest quality system available, regardless of price.
Our systems are generally ready to ship in two to three days and are 100% complete. We include a correctly sized head unit and pulley for your application, 60# injectors, Kenne Bell Boost A Pump, NGK spark plugs and a base tune, if needed. Nothing else is needed to get you up and runnning in your supercharged Corvette.
Either Josh or I (or other members) will try our best to answer any question you may have..
I will also post any specials, used kits or new products in this thread.
A&A Superchargers is now sponsoring the C6 Forced induction section as we have the C5 Forced induction section for many years. http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-f...-a-thread.html
We want this section, and this thread particularly, to be informative and interesting for all those interested in Forced Induction.
Feel free to ask questions of us or other members here. As in our C5 thread, you will find a wealth of information as the thread develops.
A&A Superchargers is a division of A&A Corvette Performance. We have been Corvette Forum members since 2001 and sponsors since 2003.
We manufacture and distribute the A&A Supercharger system through our network of dealers as as well as on a retail basis through our website and our retail store.
We are a Vortech authorized manufacturer of supercharger systems for C5 and C6 Corvette utilizing their head units. All design work and assembly of the A&A supercharger system is performed at our facility near Oxnard California.
With over 2000 systems built, we have learned a lot over the last few years and this knowledge is reflected in the final product. We are always looking at ways to improve the efficiency and value of our products.
Our intercooler design is innovative and unprescedented. After much testing with smoke generators we found that a good portion the ambient airflow would actually hit the front of the intercooler and just “roll” over the sides. We are the only manufacturer to implement aluminum side plates on our intercoolers that capture this air and prevent this. The top seam of the intercooler is flush up against the frame which stops any air from going up and over the intercooler. The bottom of the intercooler has a duckbill that seals the area between the intercooler and the front facia. This stops air that goes through the grill opening from escaping below the interooler. 100% of the actual intercooler core is exposed to frontal airflow. None of this area is hidden behind the frame of the vehicle. These innovations made a huge difference in intercooler efficiency.
Airflow management is the key to an efficient supercharger system.
We use CNC laser cut aluminum panels to enclose the radiator area for efficient cooling and aesthetics.
Our bracketry is now manufactured from 1” thick 6061 aluminum bar stock and machined on BOTH down to it’s 5/8” final dimension. This is the only way to make sure the final product is completely flat and dimensionally to specification.
We are the only manufacturer to utilize 5 ply silicone hoses with articulated bends for clearance around the sway bar, skid bar assembly and for proper intercooler entry without kinks. These are important features that ease installation as well as promote efficient airflow.
Our tubing is CNC bent, bead rolled and polished (or black annodized) for a professional look and to assure that hoses will not blow off under pressure.
We invite you to download our instructions to get a good overview of how the system is designed and how well the different parts integrate into a complete system. We have gone to great lengths to make sure we have the highest quality system available, regardless of price.
Our systems are generally ready to ship in two to three days and are 100% complete. We include a correctly sized head unit and pulley for your application, 60# injectors, Kenne Bell Boost A Pump, NGK spark plugs and a base tune, if needed. Nothing else is needed to get you up and runnning in your supercharged Corvette.
Either Josh or I (or other members) will try our best to answer any question you may have..
I will also post any specials, used kits or new products in this thread.
01-11-2016, 12:30 PM
#683
Platinum Supporting Vendor
Give us a call at the shop so we can discuss what would be involved to get you up to current specs. 805-278-4107
__________________
Thanks, Josh Dodson
PLEASE TAKE A MOMENT TO VISIT OUR NEW WEBSITE AT WWW.AACORVETTE.COM
NOW PARTNERING WITH AFFIRM TO OFFER INTEREST FREE FINANCING!
A&A CORVETTE PERFORMANCE
477 LAMBERT ST Ste A
OXNARD CA 93036
(805) 278-4107
Instagram @aacorvettesuperchargers
• Facebook.com/AACorvette •
Thanks, Josh Dodson
PLEASE TAKE A MOMENT TO VISIT OUR NEW WEBSITE AT WWW.AACORVETTE.COM
NOW PARTNERING WITH AFFIRM TO OFFER INTEREST FREE FINANCING!
A&A CORVETTE PERFORMANCE
477 LAMBERT ST Ste A
OXNARD CA 93036
(805) 278-4107
Instagram @aacorvettesuperchargers
• Facebook.com/AACorvette •
01-18-2016, 12:03 PM
#685
Platinum Supporting Vendor
Since you have Z51 there is an external oil cooler right where my Ram Air intercooler will go. The new radiator relocates the oil lines into the driverside endtank. Some guys have made their own brackets to move the stock cooler behind the radiator fan to save money.
01-21-2016, 10:47 AM
#686
Josh, my shop is installing one of your supercharger and flex fuel kits next week. I am just wondering if you recommend any fuel additive/stabilizer to run with e85. Also, before winter hibernation do you recommend running the e85 low and then run it for a while with regular gas?
01-21-2016, 12:30 PM
#687
Platinum Supporting Vendor
Josh, my shop is installing one of your supercharger and flex fuel kits next week. I am just wondering if you recommend any fuel additive/stabilizer to run with e85. Also, before winter hibernation do you recommend running the e85 low and then run it for a while with regular gas?
The following users liked this post:
Mick14 (01-21-2016)
01-21-2016, 12:32 PM
#688
01-21-2016, 12:40 PM
#689
I have plenty of time an experience with ethanol. I wouldn't put any kind of additive in with it .and there's two ways to store the car one run it empty and fill with pump gas (must run the car for alil the pump gas lubricant the injectors for when it sites) or you can fill your tank 3/4 tank then rest of it with pump gas
Last edited by curtisb23; 01-21-2016 at 12:43 PM.
The following users liked this post:
Mick14 (01-21-2016)
01-28-2016, 05:30 PM
#690
Safety Car
Cam recommendaton
Andy or Josh,
Need a cam recommendation that will work with your CARB Certified A&A Si V3 that is on my 08 Manual LS3. The cam would be going into a forged internal 417 LS3 block. Car will remain with stock NPP exhaust and no other mods, except for A&A kit. I want to retain stock like manners and pass CA emissions. I was looking at LPE GT3-2 which has 207/220 and 571/578 C.L. 118. I need to make sure I do not run into emissions testing issues.
Thanks for any advice,
Michael.
You can also PM me.
Need a cam recommendation that will work with your CARB Certified A&A Si V3 that is on my 08 Manual LS3. The cam would be going into a forged internal 417 LS3 block. Car will remain with stock NPP exhaust and no other mods, except for A&A kit. I want to retain stock like manners and pass CA emissions. I was looking at LPE GT3-2 which has 207/220 and 571/578 C.L. 118. I need to make sure I do not run into emissions testing issues.
Thanks for any advice,
Michael.
You can also PM me.
01-28-2016, 05:35 PM
#691
Platinum Supporting Vendor
Andy or Josh,
Need a cam recommendation that will work with your CARB Certified A&A Si V3 that is on my 08 Manual LS3. The cam would be going into a forged internal 417 LS3 block. Car will remain with stock NPP exhaust and no other mods, except for A&A kit. I want to retain stock like manners and pass CA emissions. I was looking at LPE GT3-2 which has 207/220 and 571/578 C.L. 118. I need to make sure I do not run into emissions testing issues.
Thanks for any advice,
Michael.
You can also PM me.
Need a cam recommendation that will work with your CARB Certified A&A Si V3 that is on my 08 Manual LS3. The cam would be going into a forged internal 417 LS3 block. Car will remain with stock NPP exhaust and no other mods, except for A&A kit. I want to retain stock like manners and pass CA emissions. I was looking at LPE GT3-2 which has 207/220 and 571/578 C.L. 118. I need to make sure I do not run into emissions testing issues.
Thanks for any advice,
Michael.
You can also PM me.
The following users liked this post:
Mike's LS3 (01-28-2016)
02-04-2016, 11:25 AM
#692
Safety Car
Josh or Andy,
With my A&A Si V3 set up on my 2008 manual wet sump, I would like to install the E.E. catch can that I had prior to the S/C. I am thinking the best way to install it is using the intake valley port and throttle body port as it was installed before. Since the E.E. catch can has no check valve, I would leave A&A's check valve as installed. I also understand, to fully benefit from a C.C., a second C.C. would be necessary for the oil cap vent line. Do they make a catch can that would satisfy both the clean and dirty side for capturing oil vapor? Or could I just install one C.C. for now?
Thanks.
With my A&A Si V3 set up on my 2008 manual wet sump, I would like to install the E.E. catch can that I had prior to the S/C. I am thinking the best way to install it is using the intake valley port and throttle body port as it was installed before. Since the E.E. catch can has no check valve, I would leave A&A's check valve as installed. I also understand, to fully benefit from a C.C., a second C.C. would be necessary for the oil cap vent line. Do they make a catch can that would satisfy both the clean and dirty side for capturing oil vapor? Or could I just install one C.C. for now?
Thanks.
02-12-2016, 12:28 AM
#693
Platinum Supporting Vendor
Thread Starter
Josh or Andy,
With my A&A Si V3 set up on my 2008 manual wet sump, I would like to install the E.E. catch can that I had prior to the S/C. I am thinking the best way to install it is using the intake valley port and throttle body port as it was installed before. Since the E.E. catch can has no check valve, I would leave A&A's check valve as installed. I also understand, to fully benefit from a C.C., a second C.C. would be necessary for the oil cap vent line. Do they make a catch can that would satisfy both the clean and dirty side for capturing oil vapor? Or could I just install one C.C. for now?
Thanks.
With my A&A Si V3 set up on my 2008 manual wet sump, I would like to install the E.E. catch can that I had prior to the S/C. I am thinking the best way to install it is using the intake valley port and throttle body port as it was installed before. Since the E.E. catch can has no check valve, I would leave A&A's check valve as installed. I also understand, to fully benefit from a C.C., a second C.C. would be necessary for the oil cap vent line. Do they make a catch can that would satisfy both the clean and dirty side for capturing oil vapor? Or could I just install one C.C. for now?
Thanks.
That being said, I would talk to the manufacturer and get their take on it. They would know more than I.
02-12-2016, 12:29 AM
#694
Platinum Supporting Vendor
Thread Starter
MAJOR ANNOUNCEMENT- NEW for 2016
I've been obsessing over this project for a couple of months now. I wanted to build a solid billet tensioner with all the best features I could pack into it. I think I have achieved that in this new tensioner/ bracket design.
First of all it is EXTREMELY STRONG. It has 4 bearings in it. Two thrust bearings and two lateral bearings to make sure there is NO DEFLECTION! Most, if not all, tensioners have aluminum rubbing on aluminum with "maybe" a plastic sleeve to separate them.
This design has a shaft that the bearings ride on made from precision machined .625" 304 stainless steel.
The two main halves of the tensioner are machined from 4 1/2" blocks of 6061 aluminum. I actually have some pretty cool pictures of the blocks in various stages of machining. I'll try to get those up tomorrow.
It features a LOCK MECHANISM so that you can easily move the tensioner to the open position and lock it in place. This allows you to remove your ratchet or wrench from the car and slip the belt in from the top unhindered without trying to hold the tensioner open with your other hand. Believe me, this a HUGE improvement over other designs.
BELT CHANGES ARE EASILY DONE FROM THE TOP WITH NO NEED TO REMOVE ANYTHING OTHER THAN THE INTAKE DUCT. This is done simply to allow your ratchet to have enough movement to retract the tensioner to the locked position. A "side of the road" belt change will not take much longer than replacing a stock belt.
IT IS "CLOCKABLE TO ALLOW CLEARANCE FOR STOCK AND OVERSIZE BALANCERS AND TO CHANGE SPRING PRELOAD. You can easily set the clearance between the tensioner pulley and the balancer. This way there is no danger of the tensioner pulley hitting the balancer in case you snap a belt. I hear complaints that other designs allow the pulley to hit the balancer and cause substantial damage when this happens.
Different springs will be available and can be changed easily. Obviously a YSi with a 2.85 pulley, 8 rib and secondary drive making 900 RWHP will require more spring pressure than an Si or Ti Trim with a 3.8 6 rib pulley making 600 RWHP. We will offer different spring rates for this reason.
YOU WILL NOT NEED TO PURCHASE A NEW BRACKET TO UPGRADE TO THIS NEW DESIGN The tensioner can be retrofitted to previous bracket designs for a minimal charge. The lower section will just be discarded. We will need to weld up one hole, mill and drill the upper half to accept the new tensioner.
ALL THE NEW BRACKET/ TENSIONERS WILL BE SET UP FOR 8 RIB DRIVE If using a 6 rib pulley we simply insert a .280" spacer behind the pulley to line everything up. Nothing in the bracket- tensioner setup will need to be changed to go to 8 rib.
This will be coming in all the kits shortly. The billet tensioner has nearly TRIPLE THE SPRING RATE AND DOUBLE THE TRAVEL of our previous tensioner.
Because the distance from the fulcrum to the centerline of the pulley is so long (triple the measurement of our old tensioner) the pulley follows a NEAR LINEAR TRAJECTORY rather than a short arc where the geometry between the belt and pulley changes considerably.
Here are a couple of videos. The on car installation took 1:43
The first run on this car made 847 RWHP without Meth with no belt issues at all. Hopefully we will get the Meth on it in a day or two and see what it can really do.
On all "oil fed" blowers (such as the YSi) we will now be including AN fittings and braided lines for the oil drain. This is something I have thought would be a nice addition for some time now.
First of all it is EXTREMELY STRONG. It has 4 bearings in it. Two thrust bearings and two lateral bearings to make sure there is NO DEFLECTION! Most, if not all, tensioners have aluminum rubbing on aluminum with "maybe" a plastic sleeve to separate them.
This design has a shaft that the bearings ride on made from precision machined .625" 304 stainless steel.
The two main halves of the tensioner are machined from 4 1/2" blocks of 6061 aluminum. I actually have some pretty cool pictures of the blocks in various stages of machining. I'll try to get those up tomorrow.
It features a LOCK MECHANISM so that you can easily move the tensioner to the open position and lock it in place. This allows you to remove your ratchet or wrench from the car and slip the belt in from the top unhindered without trying to hold the tensioner open with your other hand. Believe me, this a HUGE improvement over other designs.
BELT CHANGES ARE EASILY DONE FROM THE TOP WITH NO NEED TO REMOVE ANYTHING OTHER THAN THE INTAKE DUCT. This is done simply to allow your ratchet to have enough movement to retract the tensioner to the locked position. A "side of the road" belt change will not take much longer than replacing a stock belt.
IT IS "CLOCKABLE TO ALLOW CLEARANCE FOR STOCK AND OVERSIZE BALANCERS AND TO CHANGE SPRING PRELOAD. You can easily set the clearance between the tensioner pulley and the balancer. This way there is no danger of the tensioner pulley hitting the balancer in case you snap a belt. I hear complaints that other designs allow the pulley to hit the balancer and cause substantial damage when this happens.
Different springs will be available and can be changed easily. Obviously a YSi with a 2.85 pulley, 8 rib and secondary drive making 900 RWHP will require more spring pressure than an Si or Ti Trim with a 3.8 6 rib pulley making 600 RWHP. We will offer different spring rates for this reason.
YOU WILL NOT NEED TO PURCHASE A NEW BRACKET TO UPGRADE TO THIS NEW DESIGN The tensioner can be retrofitted to previous bracket designs for a minimal charge. The lower section will just be discarded. We will need to weld up one hole, mill and drill the upper half to accept the new tensioner.
ALL THE NEW BRACKET/ TENSIONERS WILL BE SET UP FOR 8 RIB DRIVE If using a 6 rib pulley we simply insert a .280" spacer behind the pulley to line everything up. Nothing in the bracket- tensioner setup will need to be changed to go to 8 rib.
This will be coming in all the kits shortly. The billet tensioner has nearly TRIPLE THE SPRING RATE AND DOUBLE THE TRAVEL of our previous tensioner.
Because the distance from the fulcrum to the centerline of the pulley is so long (triple the measurement of our old tensioner) the pulley follows a NEAR LINEAR TRAJECTORY rather than a short arc where the geometry between the belt and pulley changes considerably.
Here are a couple of videos. The on car installation took 1:43
The first run on this car made 847 RWHP without Meth with no belt issues at all. Hopefully we will get the Meth on it in a day or two and see what it can really do.
On all "oil fed" blowers (such as the YSi) we will now be including AN fittings and braided lines for the oil drain. This is something I have thought would be a nice addition for some time now.
__________________
PLEASE TAKE A MOMENT TO VISIT OUR WEBSITE AT WWW.AACORVETTE.COM
NOW PARTNERING WITH AFFIRM TO OFFER INTEREST FREE FINANCING!
A&A CORVETTE
477 LAMBERT ST
OXNARD CA 93036
WWW.AACorvette.com
A&A CORVETTE SUPERCHARGER SYSTEMS
HOME OF THE WORLDS FIRST
CENTRIFUGALLY SUPERCHARGED C7
SUPERIOR ENGINEERING- SUPERIOR POWER
SUPERIOR PRICING- SUPERIOR CUSTOMER SUPPORT
Andy@AACorvette.com 805- 278 4107
PLEASE TAKE A MOMENT TO VISIT OUR WEBSITE AT WWW.AACORVETTE.COM
NOW PARTNERING WITH AFFIRM TO OFFER INTEREST FREE FINANCING!
A&A CORVETTE
477 LAMBERT ST
OXNARD CA 93036
WWW.AACorvette.com
A&A CORVETTE SUPERCHARGER SYSTEMS
HOME OF THE WORLDS FIRST
CENTRIFUGALLY SUPERCHARGED C7
SUPERIOR ENGINEERING- SUPERIOR POWER
SUPERIOR PRICING- SUPERIOR CUSTOMER SUPPORT
Andy@AACorvette.com 805- 278 4107
02-12-2016, 11:21 AM
#696
Race Director
Member Since: May 2004
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 16,664
Received 1,194 Likes
on
1,053 Posts
St. Jude Donor '15
I like it!
02-12-2016, 01:38 PM
#698
Josh or Andy,
I would like a recommendation on a smaller pulley for my setup. 08 Z06 with a Vortech V-3 Si, ERL 427 fully forged superdeck block(compression around 10:1), H/C/I, fully built fuel system(E85 car)etc... I was checking out your 3.6" pulley(6 Rib) as that seems about as small as I should go with the higher revving LS7 in order to keep impeller speed below maximum( I used the calculator on your website). I'm shooting for around 10PSI and hoping for 750WHP(dynojet). Trying to make more power but I want to keep the supercharger in it's efficiency range to develop a solid power curve especially up top. Recommendations? Thank you!
Sincerely,
Kyle
I would like a recommendation on a smaller pulley for my setup. 08 Z06 with a Vortech V-3 Si, ERL 427 fully forged superdeck block(compression around 10:1), H/C/I, fully built fuel system(E85 car)etc... I was checking out your 3.6" pulley(6 Rib) as that seems about as small as I should go with the higher revving LS7 in order to keep impeller speed below maximum( I used the calculator on your website). I'm shooting for around 10PSI and hoping for 750WHP(dynojet). Trying to make more power but I want to keep the supercharger in it's efficiency range to develop a solid power curve especially up top. Recommendations? Thank you!
Sincerely,
Kyle
Last edited by KM177122; 02-12-2016 at 01:39 PM.
02-12-2016, 04:52 PM
#699
Platinum Supporting Vendor
Josh or Andy,
I would like a recommendation on a smaller pulley for my setup. 08 Z06 with a Vortech V-3 Si, ERL 427 fully forged superdeck block(compression around 10:1), H/C/I, fully built fuel system(E85 car)etc... I was checking out your 3.6" pulley(6 Rib) as that seems about as small as I should go with the higher revving LS7 in order to keep impeller speed below maximum( I used the calculator on your website). I'm shooting for around 10PSI and hoping for 750WHP(dynojet). Trying to make more power but I want to keep the supercharger in it's efficiency range to develop a solid power curve especially up top. Recommendations? Thank you!
Sincerely,
Kyle
I would like a recommendation on a smaller pulley for my setup. 08 Z06 with a Vortech V-3 Si, ERL 427 fully forged superdeck block(compression around 10:1), H/C/I, fully built fuel system(E85 car)etc... I was checking out your 3.6" pulley(6 Rib) as that seems about as small as I should go with the higher revving LS7 in order to keep impeller speed below maximum( I used the calculator on your website). I'm shooting for around 10PSI and hoping for 750WHP(dynojet). Trying to make more power but I want to keep the supercharger in it's efficiency range to develop a solid power curve especially up top. Recommendations? Thank you!
Sincerely,
Kyle
02-12-2016, 05:17 PM
#700